12m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the front of the pillar then move right for an exposed and powerful finish via a crack that splits the nose. © Rockfax

Les Gillott early 1960s

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Stanage Plantation

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
partz 5 Oct Lead O/S Really good. Stepped onto the accessory climb just below the roof, felt very cheating, but a good tussle through the roof
Really good. Stepped onto the accessory climb just below the roof, felt very cheating, but a good tussle through the roof
colin milton 26 Jul Lead Failed to finish before the last move still felt desperate
with ibbo
Failed to finish before the last move still felt desperate
with ibbo
SamABennett 22 May Lead O/S
with Andrew Pearse
with Andrew Pearse
bobpilgrem 23 Mar Lead O/S
with Tom
with Tom
tompilgrem 22 Mar 2nd O/S
Hidden 11 Oct, 2018 Lead
charlie broe 15 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
with Matt
with Matt
Hidden 4 Sep, 2018 Lead
Giles Eperon 31 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
derekb 6 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Back in the game !
Back in the game !
Nick-Hatton 1 May, 2018 Lead O/S
jameslomax 11 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S Listed as VS 4c in the old rockfax guide book I was using but is almost certainly harder. My gear choice for the final overhang was also questionable but by that point it's too late to complain. Top out was a nervy battle.
with Edoardo
Listed as VS 4c in the old rockfax guide book I was using but is almost certainly harder. My gear choice for the final overhang was also questionable but by that point it's too late to complain. Top out was a nervy battle.
with Edoardo
Ben Bransby 27 Jun, 2017 Solo
Afell 10 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Rob_Morris1996 24 Mar, 2017 2nd dog Pump!
Pump!
mrphilipoldham 24 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S Steep and potential for pump, if you don't spend half the climb sat down (or at least, kneebaring)
Steep and potential for pump, if you don't spend half the climb sat down (or at least, kneebaring)
Paul Hy 24 Mar, 2017 2nd dnf pumped!!!
pumped!!!
royle883 5 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S Definitely HVS (As in Rockfax), pumpy as (but well protected)
Definitely HVS (As in Rockfax), pumpy as (but well protected)
Hidden 5 Feb, 2017 2nd
Hidden 21 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
cem 21 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Ian Dillon
with Ian Dillon
davidreeves 13 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
caradoc 28 May, 2016 Lead O/S Tough, quite enjoyed it though. Definitely HVS in my opinion.
with Matt H.
Tough, quite enjoyed it though. Definitely HVS in my opinion.
with Matt H.
bljp 6 May, 2016 2nd O/S Climbed accessory chimney to get to roof because lower section was overgrown.
Climbed accessory chimney to get to roof because lower section was overgrown.
Conor Nally 6 May, 2016 Lead Overgrown so I started up accessory chimney to the base of the roof
with ben
Overgrown so I started up accessory chimney to the base of the roof
with ben
Roget 1 Nov, 2015 Lead O/S
with robin
with robin
Robin Nichols 1 Nov, 2015 2nd O/S
with Roget
with Roget
John Higgs 8 Aug, 2015 Solo O/S
keitht 11 Jul, 2015 Lead Holly tree a bit scratchy. Fabulous finish.
Holly tree a bit scratchy. Fabulous finish.
dewiturton 11 Jul, 2015 2nd
with keitht
with keitht
Luke90 22 May, 2015 Lead O/S
will_benfold 4 May, 2015 Lead dnf Bit shaken up from previous route and didn't fancy committing.
with Keith
Bit shaken up from previous route and didn't fancy committing.
with Keith
will_benfold 4 May, 2015 2nd rpt
with Keith
with Keith
dannyboy83 11 Apr, 2015 Solo O/S
Naomi.P 9 Apr, 2015 2nd dnf Leo got off the ground. And then came back down again
Leo got off the ground. And then came back down again
leopolian 9 Apr, 2015 Lead dnf
with Naomi.P
with Naomi.P
Hidden 18 Oct, 2014 Lead dnf
Ben07 12 Oct, 2014 Lead β
Bob M 25 Jun, 2014 TR Top-roped after failing to lead the top bulge. HVS 5a is more realistic.
with riggy
Top-roped after failing to lead the top bulge. HVS 5a is more realistic.
with riggy
WillDoyle 31 May, 2014 2nd
dr_botnik 28 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Fuck off VS. HVS fo sho.
Fuck off VS. HVS fo sho.
kermit_uk 29 Mar, 2014 2nd O/S
with Phil Parkin
with Phil Parkin
Hidden 29 Mar, 2014 2nd rpt
Nick1812P 29 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
Lotoni ?Nov, 2013 Lead dnf fall with cam breaking one of the layers of rock in the upper part. rock hit me on forehead, lost a front tooth
with kuz
fall with cam breaking one of the layers of rock in the upper part. rock hit me on forehead, lost a front tooth
with kuz
mark4344 28 Sep, 2013 2nd tough for grade. pumpy and rounded holds at top.
with derek, Matt Payne
tough for grade. pumpy and rounded holds at top.
with derek, Matt Payne
Merlin 10 Aug, 2013 Lead dog This route is nails! Lead the crux/top after Phil backed off, went off-route to the right, but still obscenely strong finish. Not VS by any stretch of the imagination!
with Polly Withers, Phil Chalkley
This route is nails! Lead the crux/top after Phil backed off, went off-route to the right, but still obscenely strong finish. Not VS by any stretch of the imagination!
with Polly Withers, Phil Chalkley
Hidden 13 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
JimboWizbo 13 Jul, 2013 2nd Nice, unlikely VS
with BCT
Nice, unlikely VS
with BCT
Hidden 13 Jul, 2013 Lead dog
MaccMark 13 Jul, 2013 2nd
Lumbering Oaf 1 Jun, 2013 2nd dog :(
with Batt
:(
with Batt
Batt 1 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Monkey practice
Monkey practice
thehugehead 20 Apr, 2013 -
with Twigger, kmfj, mikeyg
with Twigger, kmfj, mikeyg
alastairbegley 20 Apr, 2013 Lead dog
with David West
with David West
the power 13 Jan, 2013 Lead dog hard work cold hands hanging upside down fun
hard work cold hands hanging upside down fun
Hidden 13 Jan, 2013 2nd
Tithe Technique 4 Oct, 2012 TR dog
charley 4 Oct, 2012 2nd O/S Bit of a stiff warm-up route on a cold afternoon after not a climbing for awhile. Actually found it okay and easier then everyone else but I was 4th up so didn't have to place or remove gear.. Think I would of felt different on lead..
Bit of a stiff warm-up route on a cold afternoon after not a climbing for awhile. Actually found it okay and easier then everyone else but I was 4th up so didn't have to place or remove gear.. Think I would of felt different on lead..
valentinesbabe 4 Oct, 2012 2nd dog Had to rest on top move, strenuous rather than difficult
Had to rest on top move, strenuous rather than difficult
Jackwd 4 Oct, 2012 Lead dog Fell off just before the top. Hard for VS!
Fell off just before the top. Hard for VS!
andy jennings 1 Sep, 2012 2nd β
with Mike
with Mike
Hidden 1 Sep, 2012 2nd dog
Hidden 25 Jul, 2012 Lead
Boy 12 Jul, 2012 Solo
Hidden 26 May, 2012 2nd O/S
Sebastien Gastaud 20 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with Fabienne Gassman, Kirsty McLoud, smolders
with Fabienne Gassman, Kirsty McLoud, smolders
stev1e.wilso 15 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
simon1985 15 Apr, 2012 Lead
Jim Slater 18 Mar, 2012 Lead dog
Graeme Hammond 18 Mar, 2012 2nd rpt why is this VS on here, never in a million years HVS for sure
why is this VS on here, never in a million years HVS for sure
Jonny M 17 Mar, 2012 TR O/S
with Zebra
with Zebra
Hidden 17 Mar, 2012 Lead dog
danny269 ??, 2012 2nd excellent route - definitely an HVS 5a & probably deserves a second star (despite the midges today!)
with Keir
excellent route - definitely an HVS 5a & probably deserves a second star (despite the midges today!)
with Keir
Hidden ??, 2012 -
owain86 12 Nov, 2011 Lead β This felt just as hard and possibly harder than right unconquerable. knee bar helps to rest and place gear before the top out.
This felt just as hard and possibly harder than right unconquerable. knee bar helps to rest and place gear before the top out.
steve2006 15 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S best climb of the day! Juggy with lots of protection. It feels scary but that's because your pumped out and getting tided. had to use a knee bar to rest.. is this really a VS/4c? think not..
best climb of the day! Juggy with lots of protection. It feels scary but that's because your pumped out and getting tided. had to use a knee bar to rest.. is this really a VS/4c? think not..
fatbuoybazza 15 Oct, 2011 2nd rpt
Si Croft 15 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
with Bernie, JD, Jos
with Bernie, JD, Jos
gb83 2 Aug, 2011 Lead dnf very sandy and crumbly where it matters. will took a good fall on this one going through the roof. I attempted the lead but backed off. not my cup of tea.
very sandy and crumbly where it matters. will took a good fall on this one going through the roof. I attempted the lead but backed off. not my cup of tea.
Hidden 2 Aug, 2011 Lead dnf
Hidden 31 Jul, 2011 TR
Neil Rodgers (PCC) 31 Jul, 2011 TR dog Top roped after failing to lead. Still found this very physically demanding, made the top with a few tight ropes to top out. Well under graded. HVS5A ?
with Marilyn, Mick Sissons
Top roped after failing to lead. Still found this very physically demanding, made the top with a few tight ropes to top out. Well under graded. HVS5A ?
with Marilyn, Mick Sissons
paulerussell 24 Jul, 2011 TR dog
matiamallia 24 Jul, 2011 TR β
Hidden 9 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 26 Jun, 2011 2nd dnf
Hidden 26 Jun, 2011 Lead dog
Hidden 10 May, 2011 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 29 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S Felt a bit pressing on the overhang and more like 5b, although less than perfect conditions probably didn't help.
with Steve, rich_hw
Felt a bit pressing on the overhang and more like 5b, although less than perfect conditions probably didn't help.
with Steve, rich_hw
Danny Crump 27 Mar, 2011 2nd
tony wood 27 Mar, 2011 Lead dnf
with Sarah P, Danny Crump
with Sarah P, Danny Crump
Rachel Slater 27 Mar, 2011 2nd O/S
with jfane
with jfane
fatbuoybazza 6 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S Shouldo had HVS fur this one..
Shouldo had HVS fur this one..
Hidden 6 Mar, 2011 Lead
thekendo 9 Jan, 2011 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 8 Jan, 2011 Lead
rockaddict ??, 2011 TR O/S
rockaddict ??, 2011 2nd
deacondeacon ??, 2011 Lead O/S
davebonner ??, 2011 -
HIGHTOWER 16 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
HannahFrancis 16 Oct, 2010 2nd
Hidden 28 Aug, 2010 TR dog
hobblingfool 26 Jun, 2010 Lead dnf Did not trust the rock quality at the top, obvious recent damage in a few places. Take Care.
Did not trust the rock quality at the top, obvious recent damage in a few places. Take Care.
Hexman 17 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Felt good getting the knee bar in but definitely more like HVS 5a!
with James
Felt good getting the knee bar in but definitely more like HVS 5a!
with James
Hidden 28 Apr, 2010 Lead dnf
ben_250 28 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 28 Apr, 2010 Lead
hamishclimb 22 Apr, 2010 TR
buxtoncoffeelover ??, 2010 2nd
pawelx 5 Oct, 2009 Lead dog Do you have to stay on the overhang and place gear hanging on your arms? Or can you move to the big block on the right, comfortably place a lot of gear before launching into the roof? I still fell on it when climbing the roof. I followed the crack - either I missed something obvious, or it's just slopers and no jugs to pull on - probably hard for a VS?
Do you have to stay on the overhang and place gear hanging on your arms? Or can you move to the big block on the right, comfortably place a lot of gear before launching into the roof? I still fell on it when climbing the roof. I followed the crack - either I missed something obvious, or it's just slopers and no jugs to pull on - probably hard for a VS?
Hidden 4 Oct, 2009 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 4 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
with Nicky Shaw, Steve H87
with Nicky Shaw, Steve H87
Hidden 20 Sep, 2009 2nd
Viorel Chicu 19 Sep, 2009 2nd dog
Monkey_Alan 19 Sep, 2009 Lead dog Had to rest getting past the overhang.
Had to rest getting past the overhang.
Diggler 29 Aug, 2009 2nd Fun hands off rest from a knee bar near the top
with Paul V
Fun hands off rest from a knee bar near the top
with Paul V
Hidden ?Jul, 2009 2nd dog
schaff ?May, 2009 Lead O/S
steveb2006 15 Mar, 2009 Lead
Hidden 22 Nov, 2008 Lead
bigbobbyking 19 Oct, 2008 Lead dnf Got to the overhand and thought "gosh - steeper than it looked from down there" Another day...
Got to the overhand and thought "gosh - steeper than it looked from down there" Another day...
JohnHutch 9 Oct, 2008 2nd Up, left - and don't stop!
with MG
Up, left - and don't stop!
with MG
Small and weak ?Oct, 2008 Solo Back rope solo
Back rope solo
tobydunford 16 Feb, 2008 Lead O/S
with Sarah Wysling
with Sarah Wysling
uphillnow ??, 2008 2nd
barni 4 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
with tom machine
with tom machine
stp 2 May, 2007 Solo O/S Contrived start made worse by the expanding holly bush.
Contrived start made worse by the expanding holly bush.
Stig 9 Oct, 2005 Lead O/S
with Jonathan Teale
with Jonathan Teale
Stig 20 Jun, 2005 2nd dog
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Ropeboy 30 May, 2005 Solo
Neil McA 23 Jan, 2005 Lead O/S
with martin cooper
with martin cooper
Different Steve ?Sep, 2004 Lead worth HVS and ** i thought
worth HVS and ** i thought
lowersharpnose 1 Jan, 2002 Lead
Hidden ??, 2002 -
rocktigger ??, 2001 Lead O/S
with Clare
with Clare
Albie 29 Aug, 1999 Lead dog sat on the holly bush - didn't quite finish properly
with Helen Niedojadlo
sat on the holly bush - didn't quite finish properly
with Helen Niedojadlo
Simon Pearce ??, 1999 -
Hidden 13 Aug, 1994 Lead
BRUCESTRAC ??, 1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
with Chris Cracknell,Various
Rick51 18 Apr, 1972 2nd
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 45
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 41
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set