Rockfax Description
Climb the front of the pillar then move right for an exposed and powerful finish via a crack that splits the nose. © Rockfax

Les Gillott early 1960s 1962

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS).

Ben Bransby 27/Jun Solo
Afell 10/May Lead O/S
Rob_Morris1996 24/Mar 2nd dog


mrphilipoldham 24/Mar Lead O/S

Steep and potential for pump, if you don't spend half the climb sat down (or at least, kneebaring)

Paul Hy 24/Mar 2nd dnf


with Phil O
royle883 05/Feb Lead O/S

Definitely HVS (As in Rockfax), pumpy as (but well protected)

Hidden 05/Feb 2nd
pingora 21/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Charles
cem 21/Aug/16 Lead O/S
davidreeves 13/Aug/16 2nd O/S
caradoc 28/May/16 Lead O/S

Tough, quite enjoyed it though. Definitely HVS in my opinion.

with Matt H.
bljp 06/May/16 2nd O/S

Climbed accessory chimney to get to roof because lower section was overgrown.

Conor Nally 06/May/16 Lead

Overgrown so I started up accessory chimney to the base of the roof

with ben
Roget 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S
with robin
Robin Nichols 01/Nov/15 2nd O/S
with Roger
John Higgs 08/Aug/15 Solo O/S
keitht 11/Jul/15 Lead

Holly tree a bit scratchy. Fabulous finish.

dewiturton 11/Jul/15 2nd
with keitht
Luke90 22/May/15 Lead O/S
will_benfold 04/May/15 Lead dnf

Bit shaken up from previous route and didn't fancy committing.

with Keith
will_benfold 04/May/15 2nd rpt
with Keith
dannyboy83 11/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Naomi.P 09/Apr/15 2nd dnf

Leo got off the ground. And then came back down again

with Leo H, Leo H
leopolian 09/Apr/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 18/Oct/14 Lead dnf
benlatham07 12/Oct/14 Lead β
Bob M 25/Jun/14 TR

Top-roped after failing to lead the top bulge. HVS 5a is more realistic.

WillDoyle 31/May/14 2nd
dr_botnik 28/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Fuck off VS. HVS fo sho.

kermit_uk 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Phil Parkin
Hidden 29/Mar/14 2nd rpt
Nick1812P 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Jamie
Lotoni ?/Nov/13 Lead dnf

fall with cam breaking one of the layers of rock in the upper part. rock hit me on forehead, lost a front tooth

with kuz
mark4344 28/Sep/13 2nd

tough for grade. pumpy and rounded holds at top.

with derek, Matt Payne
Merlin 10/Aug/13 Lead dog

This route is nails! Lead the crux/top after Phil backed off, went off-route to the right, but still obscenely strong finish. Not VS by any stretch of the imagination!

with Polly Withers, Phil Chalkley
Hidden 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
JimboWizbo 13/Jul/13 2nd

Nice, unlikely VS

with Beth
Clay C 13/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Emma
MaccMark 13/Jul/13 2nd
Lumbering Oaf 01/Jun/13 2nd dog


Batt 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Monkey practice

thehugehead 20/Apr/13 -
with twigger, kmfj, mikeyg
alastairbegley 20/Apr/13 Lead dog
with David West
the power 13/Jan/13 Lead dog

hard work cold hands hanging upside down fun

Hidden 13/Jan/13 2nd
Tithe Technique 04/Oct/12 TR dog
charley 04/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Bit of a stiff warm-up route on a cold afternoon after not a climbing for awhile. Actually found it okay and easier then everyone else but I was 4th up so didn't have to place or remove gear.. Think I would of felt different on lead..

with JackD, Ange, Kev
valentinesbabe 04/Oct/12 2nd dog

Had to rest on top move, strenuous rather than difficult

Jackwd 04/Oct/12 Lead dog

Fell off just before the top. Hard for VS!

andy jennings 01/Sep/12 2nd β
with Mike
Hidden 01/Sep/12 2nd dog
Hidden 25/Jul/12 Lead
Boy 12/Jul/12 Solo
Hidden 26/May/12 2nd O/S
Sebastien Gastaud 20/May/12 Lead O/S
with Fabienne Gassman, Kirsty McLoud, Martin Oldham
stev1e.wilso 15/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Simon
simon1985 15/Apr/12 Lead
Graeme Hammond 18/Mar/12 2nd rpt

why is this VS on here, never in a million years HVS for sure

with Jim
Jonny M 17/Mar/12 TR O/S
Hidden 17/Mar/12 Lead dog
danny269 ??/2012 2nd

excellent route - definitely an HVS 5a & probably deserves a second star (despite the midges today!)

with Keir
Hidden ??/2012 -
owain86 12/Nov/11 Lead β

This felt just as hard and possibly harder than right unconquerable. knee bar helps to rest and place gear before the top out.

with Chris
steve2006 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

best climb of the day! Juggy with lots of protection. It feels scary but that's because your pumped out and getting tided. had to use a knee bar to rest.. is this really a VS/4c? think not..

with barry
fatbuoybazza 15/Oct/11 2nd rpt
with Stevsie
Si Croft 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Bernie, JD, Jos
gb83 02/Aug/11 Lead dnf

very sandy and crumbly where it matters. will took a good fall on this one going through the roof. I attempted the lead but backed off. not my cup of tea.

Hidden 02/Aug/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 31/Jul/11 TR
Neil Rodgers (PCC) 31/Jul/11 TR dog

Top roped after failing to lead. Still found this very physically demanding, made the top with a few tight ropes to top out. Well under graded. HVS5A ?

with Marilyn, Mick Sissons
paulerussell 24/Jul/11 TR dog
matiamallia 24/Jul/11 TR β
Hidden 09/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/11 2nd dnf
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead dog
Hidden 10/May/11 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 29/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Felt a bit pressing on the overhang and more like 5b, although less than perfect conditions probably didn't help.

with Steve, Richard Williams
Danny Crump 27/Mar/11 2nd
tony wood 27/Mar/11 Lead dnf
with Sarah P, Danny Crump
Rachel Slater 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S
fatbuoybazza 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Shouldo had HVS fur this one..

Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead
thekendo 09/Jan/11 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 08/Jan/11 Lead
rockaddict ??/2011 TR O/S
rockaddict ??/2011 2nd
deacondeacon ??/2011 Lead O/S
davebonner ??/2011 -
HIGHTOWER 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Hannah
Tightsgirl 16/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 28/Aug/10 TR dog
hobblingfool 26/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Did not trust the rock quality at the top, obvious recent damage in a few places. Take Care.

Hexman 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Felt good getting the knee bar in but definitely more like HVS 5a!

with James
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead dnf
ben_250 28/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Tom
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead
hamishclimb 22/Apr/10 TR
buxtoncoffeelover ??/2010 2nd
pawelx 05/Oct/09 Lead dog

Do you have to stay on the overhang and place gear hanging on your arms? Or can you move to the big block on the right, comfortably place a lot of gear before launching into the roof? I still fell on it when climbing the roof. I followed the crack - either I missed something obvious, or it's just slopers and no jugs to pull on - probably hard for a VS?

Hidden 04/Oct/09 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Nicky Shaw, Steve Harby
Hidden 20/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 19/Sep/09 2nd dog
Monkey_Alan 19/Sep/09 Lead dog

Had to rest getting past the overhang.

Diggler 29/Aug/09 2nd

Fun hands off rest from a knee bar near the top

with Paul V
Hidden ?/Jul/09 2nd dog
schaff ?/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead
Hidden 22/Nov/08 Lead
bigbobbyking 19/Oct/08 Lead dnf

Got to the overhand and thought "gosh - steeper than it looked from down there" Another day...

Hidden 09/Oct/08 2nd
mike fenwick ?/Oct/08 Solo

Back rope solo

tobydunford 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Sarah Wysling
uphillnow ??/2008 2nd
barni 04/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with tom machine
stp 02/May/07 Solo O/S

Contrived start made worse by the expanding holly bush.

Stig 09/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Jonathan Teale
Stig 20/Jun/05 2nd dog
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Ropeboy 30/May/05 Solo
Different Steve ?/Sep/04 Lead

worth HVS and ** i thought

lowersharpnose 01/Jan/02 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 -
rocktigger ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Clare
Hidden 29/Aug/99 Lead dog
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
Chris Ellis 13/Aug/94 Lead

Both led

with Rachel Nicolson
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 41
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set