Restricted Access
The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
Rockfax Description
A formidable extended boulder problem that takes on the blank looking wall below the Climbers' Club Ordinary traverse. Begin just left of the shallow cave. Move up the wall and gain a good edge out right. Continue direct via equally difficult layaways to gain easier ground on the Climbers' Club Ordinary traverse. Either reverse the Climbers' Club Ordinary traverse or continue up Climbers' Club Ordinary or Globe and Laurel.
Direct Start, 6b - Start in the shallow cave and bridge out to the lip where a dynamic move is required to grasp the good edge on the original line. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A Test-piece. Both Bold and Technical, with some stiff pulls. At the right hand end of the main face is a shallow cave. Start at an obvious hold at the left end of the cave and climb up at first utilizing sidepulls. Move right towards a good edge and up again to a poor one. Finish up the Black groove via laybacks. Belay on the traverse of Climbers Club Ordinary. Often gets mistaken as the original route called piglet wall which climbs to the good hand ledge then traverse R into climbers club ordinary.
Chris Nicholson and Nick White 1985 - The Direct (and more Logical finish) was added my Ken Palmer in 1991..
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for The Dewerstone
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Godspell
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Blackchurch)