100m, 2 pitches.
Follow the snow gully with a few sections of near vertical walls, the steepest section of each of which is up to 5 metres. In lean conditions (as we had), it is sustained mixed climbing. There are 2 choices of the exit 3 metres below the top: either straight up or traversing to the left. Take care of the precariously perched 1-metre long rock at the very top of the gully on the left, looking up, though it may look solid from below! Don't touch it.
If everything was frozen solid, it would be a decent and sustained grade III snowy mixed route (a bit like Twisting Gully in SCnL?), with four short vertical sections in 2 long pitches.
If everything was frozen solid, it would be a decent and sustained grade III snowy mixed route (a bit like Twisting Gully in SCnL?), with four short vertical sections in 2 long pitches.
Tom Bishop, Masa Sakano 01/Feb/2019.
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Route of Interest
The Chasm (Winter)
Grade: III ***
(Sgurr nan Eag)