Rockfax Description
A fantastic route, the best on the wall. Start below the left-hand end of the quartz pavement where easy rock leads up to a left-facing corner.
1) 5b, 15m. Power up the left-facing corner to reach a belay on the right, just above the quartz ledge.
2) 5c, 35m. Stem up the technical corner (small wires) to gain a wide crack. Climb this to a horizontal break 3m below the tip of the pinnacle. Monkey left to finish up Pinnacle Wall. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Ultimate E2 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 18 Sep Lead O/S
K Mckay 25 Aug 2nd O/S P1 only
with joe.91
P1 only
with joe.91
Neil McA 25 Aug 2nd O/S Great route, as good as Aura and contrasting in style, giving a perfect combination. Committing start to P2 which i gibbed on and gave the lead to Stan, too much sun exposure this weekend, not feeling it but had a great time seconding!
with Stan
Great route, as good as Aura and contrasting in style, giving a perfect combination. Committing start to P2 which i gibbed on and gave the lead to Stan, too much sun exposure this weekend, not feeling it but had a great time seconding!
with Stan
joe.91 25 Aug Lead O/S Only the first pitch.
with K Mckay
Only the first pitch.
with K Mckay
Matt Harle 25 Aug Lead O/S
MJHarle 25 Aug 2nd
with Matt
with Matt
Owen W-G 25 Jul 2nd Awkward cramped and shouldery P1. Lovely second pitch to second, probably hard to protect well at the start. No big gear needed for the wide bit, laybacking all the way.
Awkward cramped and shouldery P1. Lovely second pitch to second, probably hard to protect well at the start. No big gear needed for the wide bit, laybacking all the way.
Misha 3 Jul AltLd rpt At the end of the day to get out after Aura and Griseofulvin. Tim led the short but tricky P1. I got P2, which was great fun on rough, clean rock. The initial corner is steep but has good holds and the offwidth can be largely bypassed by laybacking and bridging. Felt steady E1. Placed a cam 4 next to the chock so didn’t bother threading it but could just thread the chick instead. Run out above there but not hard.
At the end of the day to get out after Aura and Griseofulvin. Tim led the short but tricky P1. I got P2, which was great fun on rough, clean rock. The initial corner is steep but has good holds and the offwidth can be largely bypassed by laybacking and bridging. Felt steady E1. Placed a cam 4 next to the chock so didn’t bother threading it but could just thread the chick instead. Run out above there but not hard.
Hidden 3 Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Jun 2nd O/S
murray 22 Jun Lead O/S The start felt stiff to me.. 5c moves with only a micro wire or two keeping you off the ledge!
The start felt stiff to me.. 5c moves with only a micro wire or two keeping you off the ledge!
Steve Long 22 Apr Lead Brilliant route.
with Chris Forrest
Brilliant route.
with Chris Forrest
Tom.Priestley 25 Feb Lead O/S Led both pitches. Really nice technical climbing. Loads of gear. No need for any big gear as there's a chockstone and also some wires above it. Found the first pitch very awkward!
with James Gibson
Led both pitches. Really nice technical climbing. Loads of gear. No need for any big gear as there's a chockstone and also some wires above it. Found the first pitch very awkward!
with James Gibson
geoff b 25 Jul, 2018 AltLd rpt A superb route. Led the sustained P2 & managed P1 without the knee this time!
with TRip
A superb route. Led the sustained P2 & managed P1 without the knee this time!
with TRip
ianstevens 9 Jul, 2018 -
nige 8 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with mark hounslea
with mark hounslea
Frank the Husky 5 Jul, 2018 - The start can be adequately protected with a couple of wires and a small camalot/dragon. The moves up the initial corner look quite intimidating, but yield to some excellent and secure bridging/laybacking. It's certainly worth taking a camalot 4 & 5 if you have them for the wide crack above. If you don't, then there's a decent chockstone, but I'd certainly recommend at least a 4.
with Fleuriot
The start can be adequately protected with a couple of wires and a small camalot/dragon. The moves up the initial corner look quite intimidating, but yield to some excellent and secure bridging/laybacking. It's certainly worth taking a camalot 4 & 5 if you have them for the wide crack above. If you don't, then there's a decent chockstone, but I'd certainly recommend at least a 4.
with Fleuriot
The Grist 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Dan Metcalfe
with Dan Metcalfe
manwithacam 28 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S First pitch great fun working out how to get unstuck from ledge. Second pitch is quality bridging, really enjoyed it
with the grist
First pitch great fun working out how to get unstuck from ledge. Second pitch is quality bridging, really enjoyed it
with the grist
Dave Turnbull, BMC 28 Jun, 2018 2nd
with Glenda Huxter
with Glenda Huxter
Mark Stevenson 27 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Luke Doherty
with Luke Doherty
peter.herd 4 Jun, 2018 Lead In 1. Poky for the grade
with Ali S
In 1. Poky for the grade
with Ali S
Hidden 23 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 22 May, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 22 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 22 May, 2018 Lead rpt
with Freddy, Ed Booth
with Freddy, Ed Booth
Sophie Nunn 19 May, 2018 Lead P1 only
with Craig S, Keri
P1 only
with Craig S, Keri
RKirke 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Stroppy
with Stroppy
Stroppy 27 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with RKirke
with RKirke
John Bunney 9 Jul, 2017 2nd Great route, super techy :)
Great route, super techy :)
shed_hed 9 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S What a fantastic pitch! Quite thin and tricky to protect at the start, then into Fairhead style corner crack. Much better than Aura. Definitely hard for E2.
What a fantastic pitch! Quite thin and tricky to protect at the start, then into Fairhead style corner crack. Much better than Aura. Definitely hard for E2.
Graeme Hammond 20 Jun, 2017 Lead rpt Couple of years since I did this before, still a great route, led both pitches after Pete backed off P1. Gear on P2 not exactly easy to place of great for the crux bridging at the start, easier above but still with sustained interest. Spent a while trying to enter the wide crack as an oftwidth (think I made a mental note to bring a large can for this last time but didn't remember) but then after climbing down to the bridge rest below the chockstone and composing myself a short layback seemed obvious doh!
Couple of years since I did this before, still a great route, led both pitches after Pete backed off P1. Gear on P2 not exactly easy to place of great for the crux bridging at the start, easier above but still with sustained interest. Spent a while trying to enter the wide crack as an oftwidth (think I made a mental note to bring a large can for this last time but didn't remember) but then after climbing down to the bridge rest below the chockstone and composing myself a short layback seemed obvious doh!
Pete Wimbush 20 Jun, 2017 2nd
James Beaumont 26 May, 2017 2nd O/S Absolutely fantastic, felt very Yosemite esque, jealous it wasn't my lead
with Trystan Lowe
Absolutely fantastic, felt very Yosemite esque, jealous it wasn't my lead
with Trystan Lowe
geoff b 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd Well protected groove climbing, tho' I had to use a knee twice! Gear from RPs to huge cams.
Well protected groove climbing, tho' I had to use a knee twice! Gear from RPs to huge cams.
Rob Pitt 27 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Lou
with Lou
MikePycroft 27 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt Hard climbing akward first pitch then bold on the second
with Steve the climber, geoff b
Hard climbing akward first pitch then bold on the second
with Steve the climber, geoff b
EeFu 30 Jul, 2016 2nd dog P1 only
with Kirill
P1 only
with Kirill
Kirill 30 Jul, 2016 Lead P1 only, combined with P3 of Pinnacle Wall
with EeFu
P1 only, combined with P3 of Pinnacle Wall
with EeFu
Graeme Hammond 26 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Chris Hindley
with Chris Hindley
Hidden 30 Aug, 2015 2nd dnf
Longsufferingropeholder 30 Aug, 2015 Lead dnf Did P1 but when the whiteout came in, and our friends on the Grimmett kicked a load of loose rock down the valley, and when I saw how wet the 2nd pitch was, we bailed onto the severe.
with C May
Did P1 but when the whiteout came in, and our friends on the Grimmett kicked a load of loose rock down the valley, and when I saw how wet the 2nd pitch was, we bailed onto the severe.
with C May
Hidden 25 Jul, 2015 Lead
Ian Jones 25 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S Fun and awkward in the first groove. Distinctly stretchy and thin in the second groove with a physical crack higher up. Different.
with Dan Moore (DCD)
Fun and awkward in the first groove. Distinctly stretchy and thin in the second groove with a physical crack higher up. Different.
with Dan Moore (DCD)
Dan Hale 23 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Kyle87
with Kyle87
Marti999 18 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
jonleighton 21 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S Super good day out. I lead P3
Super good day out. I lead P3
Glyn 21 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks 21 Apr, 2015 2nd
with John Leighton, Glyn Hudson
with John Leighton, Glyn Hudson
Dave Rumney ??, 2015 -
Dave Rumney ??, 2015 -
Dave Rumney ??, 2015 -
msoldn 13 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S p1 only due to impending darkness
with Sam (tree surgent)
p1 only due to impending darkness
with Sam (tree surgent)
MikePycroft 13 Sep, 2014 2nd dog Used gear on both pitches found it hard
with Chris P
Used gear on both pitches found it hard
with Chris P
Hidden 26 Jul, 2014 2nd
Hidden 26 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Jul, 2014 AltLd dnf
Neil ??, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Jul, 2013 Lead dnf
Si Witcher 14 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
adam 24 7 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Link up with aura. Ed led aura and the little sandbag pitch to the base of the groove. Leading the main pitch felt pretty tough, but not too bad.
Link up with aura. Ed led aura and the little sandbag pitch to the base of the groove. Leading the main pitch felt pretty tough, but not too bad.
eduardo 7 Jul, 2013 2nd dog
with Misha
with Misha
Hidden 7 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Misha 7 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Did this after Aura. The short 5b pitch was a good E1 in its own right, at first strenuous and then technical. Really liked the technical bridging on the main pitch and was relieved to find that the offwidth wasn't too desperate! The BD cam 4 that we lugged up proved helpful to back up the manky chockstone thread. Belayed in the sun watching the low cloud swirling in the gully and to top it all off we saw a brocken spectre for the belay - first time I've ever seen one. A perfect end to a great day (well, apart from the two and a bit hours of walking out, including dropping down to pick the bags up from the start of Ampitheatre Buttress - must ab in next time!). Overall, a top quality link up which is pretty tough at E2. Probably the best mountain E2 I've done.
with eduardo
Did this after Aura. The short 5b pitch was a good E1 in its own right, at first strenuous and then technical. Really liked the technical bridging on the main pitch and was relieved to find that the offwidth wasn't too desperate! The BD cam 4 that we lugged up proved helpful to back up the manky chockstone thread. Belayed in the sun watching the low cloud swirling in the gully and to top it all off we saw a brocken spectre for the belay - first time I've ever seen one. A perfect end to a great day (well, apart from the two and a bit hours of walking out, including dropping down to pick the bags up from the start of Ampitheatre Buttress - must ab in next time!). Overall, a top quality link up which is pretty tough at E2. Probably the best mountain E2 I've done.
with eduardo
Hidden 25 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 May, 2013 2nd O/S
markalmack 26 May, 2013 AltLd O/S lead top pitch
lead top pitch
La Mont 25 May, 2013 Lead O/S linked 1st pitch Ancient's Wall, 2nd pitch Pinnaclissima. a quality route. The 5c pitch involves bridging technical footwork.
linked 1st pitch Ancient's Wall, 2nd pitch Pinnaclissima. a quality route. The 5c pitch involves bridging technical footwork.
Richard Horn 25 May, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden ?May, 2013 -
Adam Booth 22 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S AMAZING! Enjoyed this a lot more than aura. Technical footwork and then swinging out onto the face on jugs... brilliant!
with Tom Jumar
AMAZING! Enjoyed this a lot more than aura. Technical footwork and then swinging out onto the face on jugs... brilliant!
with Tom Jumar
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
Hidden 27 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
tumbling wizard ?Apr, 2007 Lead
datoon 4 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
with RT & JB
with RT & JB
pauldrew 25 Apr, 2004 2nd
pete johnson 25 Apr, 2004 -
with Kevin Sales, pauldrew
with Kevin Sales, pauldrew
uphillnow 4 Jun, 1997 AltLd lead pitch 1
with Dale Holding, Mark Gray
lead pitch 1
with Dale Holding, Mark Gray
wynaptomos ?Sep, 1994 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Jun, 1994 AltLd
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 1988 Lead
nigehughes ?Sep, 1982 Lead
with Jim Hindman
with Jim Hindman
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 19
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Not Set