105m, 5 pitches. WW... as in the MCrocker guide.. means it is restricted and is a Winter Route, so it is only permitted from Oct 1st through to 15th March, and is out of bounds at all other times!

6c(6b aid), 5+, 6b, -, 5+
(FOURTH BOLT ON P3 IS NOW REPLACED (16/10/2015))
One of the longest sport routes in the UK. Some think it classic, others think it too vegetated and scrappy for that status. P1 is the crux: the move with a painful pocket can be bypassed using an aid bolt. An exposed easier 5+ P2 then leads to the 6b corner crack of P3: this is awkward and much harder than it looks. A short grassy walk (P4 -) brings you to a gentle buttress and the final 5+ pitch: this is by far the best pitch on the route. Climb past the three ring bolts then another bolt: belay using a large square block.
Abseil descent of the route is not allowed. Top out. The Martin Crocker guidebook recommends that you 'Scramble down Shoot Gully': this is potentially lethal as it is so loose. If you go this way, you will probably end up abseiling off trees which have notices pinned on them saying that some of the trees are loose. The alternatives are to walk and then scramble easily to the Space Tourist ab station (not easy to find) or to walk further towards Cheddar and descend Sloworm Gully (the best way down).

Access: Some find the guide confusing. Approach from the left (Long Wall) looking towards the crag. Approaching from sunset buttress involves climbing (damaging) a goat fence and there's a good chance of slipping to your death!

D.P Jenkin, G.A Jenkin Mar/2006

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, Cheddar Intermediate, The Longest Sport Routes in the UK, Cheddar Road To 7a Ruins, The Cheddar Nose, Cheddar

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
LouisD 14 Mar AltLd dog I lead 2nd and 3rd pitch. Harry 1st and 4th
I lead 2nd and 3rd pitch. Harry 1st and 4th
harrylusted 14 Mar AltLd dog I lead 1st and 4th pitch. Louis 2nd and 3rd
with LouisD
I lead 1st and 4th pitch. Louis 2nd and 3rd
with LouisD
Paddy Bos Coe 24 Feb AltLd dog Pulled on the draws and stood on the bolts for the first pitch. Everything else went clean. Really enjoyable. Beautiful weather although the route was wet. Very hard almost impossible to smear. Great day out
Pulled on the draws and stood on the bolts for the first pitch. Everything else went clean. Really enjoyable. Beautiful weather although the route was wet. Very hard almost impossible to smear. Great day out
Edpepper 24 Feb AltLd O/S
Stephen Maginn 23 Feb Lead O/S
Dohnny_Jawes 23 Feb AltLd β First ever route in cheddar
First ever route in cheddar
Hidden 23 Feb AltLd G/U
Samworkman1989 17 Nov, 2018 Lead
GunAnnaMathilda 17 Nov, 2018 TR dog Massive.
Massive.
Jimbob64 31 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
garygecko 31 Oct, 2018 2nd Halloween ascent,but even the rain didn’t spook us! James took up the Cheddar challenge and overcame the greasy conditions with aplomb. Topped out in 2 1/2 hours , just before the weather turned really bad. A privilege for a father to share the experience with his son, who is destined for greater things!
Halloween ascent,but even the rain didn’t spook us! James took up the Cheddar challenge and overcame the greasy conditions with aplomb. Topped out in 2 1/2 hours , just before the weather turned really bad. A privilege for a father to share the experience with his son, who is destined for greater things!
PawelP 20 Oct, 2018 AltLd led 2nd and last pitch, dogged 1st and 3rd. Reached new lows of climbing style but enjoyed the climb very much. rock quite slippery due to morning fogs. water streaking on the key two ledges just above the overhang on the P1 made it nightmare
led 2nd and last pitch, dogged 1st and 3rd. Reached new lows of climbing style but enjoyed the climb very much. rock quite slippery due to morning fogs. water streaking on the key two ledges just above the overhang on the P1 made it nightmare
simonsnake77 2 Oct, 2018 AltLd dog Aided P1, reasonably straightforward but can’t imagine being strong enough to climb this clean. Nice easy P2 led by Ben and then back to me to struggle up P3. The gully was soaking and any jamming as suggested in the guide was definitely off the menu, literally as much as I could do to aid up this with every hand and foot hold wet and algae covered. Ben then led the top pitche which was amazing and made the struggle worthwhile. Great October evening adventure with the head torches!
with Ben Symonds
Aided P1, reasonably straightforward but can’t imagine being strong enough to climb this clean. Nice easy P2 led by Ben and then back to me to struggle up P3. The gully was soaking and any jamming as suggested in the guide was definitely off the menu, literally as much as I could do to aid up this with every hand and foot hold wet and algae covered. Ben then led the top pitche which was amazing and made the struggle worthwhile. Great October evening adventure with the head torches!
with Ben Symonds
cwildblood 28 Oct, 2017 AltLd dog
Tom.Sedgwick 28 Oct, 2017 AltLd dog Very hungover ascent. Took a fall on lead on the first pitch and Chris aided the crux of the same pitch. Smooth sailing (if a little shaky and sweaty) through the rest.
Very hungover ascent. Took a fall on lead on the first pitch and Chris aided the crux of the same pitch. Smooth sailing (if a little shaky and sweaty) through the rest.
will_lake 15 Oct, 2017 AltLd dog Took a few attempts to work out the 6c sequence. And I slipped on the 6b crack which was annoying. Filthy route, far too much vegetation
Took a few attempts to work out the 6c sequence. And I slipped on the 6b crack which was annoying. Filthy route, far too much vegetation
Richardlake 15 Oct, 2017 Lead dog Pitch 1 and 3. Got the crux move after a few attempts and some lost skin. Not very easy to read and potentially a little harder than 6c. The route itself is nowhere near as consistent than Stone cold fever. The ledges are full of waste height stinging nettles and brambles. The crack on the third pitch is hard for 6b and feels like it will always be a little damp.
Pitch 1 and 3. Got the crux move after a few attempts and some lost skin. Not very easy to read and potentially a little harder than 6c. The route itself is nowhere near as consistent than Stone cold fever. The ledges are full of waste height stinging nettles and brambles. The crack on the third pitch is hard for 6b and feels like it will always be a little damp.
seabrook 11 Mar, 2017 Lead dnf Sodden.
with Jan
Sodden.
with Jan
Hidden 1 Jan, 2017 Lead
NielsC 6 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S Got the 6c move second attempt, had to warm up freezing fingers. Rest of the route quite straightforward, great 3rd and exposed final pitch. Tried to make a quick get away to escape the cold and rain, but rope caught on abseil, ended up coming down in the dark.
Got the 6c move second attempt, had to warm up freezing fingers. Rest of the route quite straightforward, great 3rd and exposed final pitch. Tried to make a quick get away to escape the cold and rain, but rope caught on abseil, ended up coming down in the dark.
pguilloux 5 Nov, 2016 Lead dog Only did first pitch because timing. The crux to pass the first roof looks desperate. Had to aid climb it.
with Luca
Only did first pitch because timing. The crux to pass the first roof looks desperate. Had to aid climb it.
with Luca
Chris Sansum 22 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S Aided the two roofs on P1 - as planned!
with Chris 2, Nathan Crabb
Aided the two roofs on P1 - as planned!
with Chris 2, Nathan Crabb
Chris Holmes 22 Oct, 2016 2nd Had to aid past the 6c roof and pull on QuickDraw on third pitch
with Crabby2009
Had to aid past the 6c roof and pull on QuickDraw on third pitch
with Crabby2009
Adam Hill 12 Oct, 2016 AltLd
CameronH 9 Oct, 2016 AltLd dog Aided to make first pitch 6b, I led p2 and p4, Seth dragged me up the other two!
with ford23
Aided to make first pitch 6b, I led p2 and p4, Seth dragged me up the other two!
with ford23
dom_joyce265 8 Oct, 2016 Lead dog Messed up the first pitch. Should have got it clean. Dissapointed at all the vegetation.
Messed up the first pitch. Should have got it clean. Dissapointed at all the vegetation.
phillipwright 8 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S Had wanted to do this route for a very long time, slightly disappointing in all honesty. The ledges were extremely vegetated
Had wanted to do this route for a very long time, slightly disappointing in all honesty. The ledges were extremely vegetated
afrosam 2 Oct, 2016 AltLd dog Maybe not the best day to do it. A lot of wetness on all pitches bar the last one. Great "adventure sport" but not worth the 3* in my opinion
with RB1
Maybe not the best day to do it. A lot of wetness on all pitches bar the last one. Great "adventure sport" but not worth the 3* in my opinion
with RB1
Hidden 2 Oct, 2016 AltLd dog
richiebongo 15 May, 2016 Lead O/S 1st pitch only
with Nick Smith
1st pitch only
with Nick Smith
Tom courtiour 13 Mar, 2016 AltLd β
Trisha Murphy 12 Mar, 2016 AltLd
Paul Baller 30 Jan, 2016 AltLd G/U
with matt stevens
with matt stevens
Gordon Jenkin 16 Oct, 2015 - UPDATE: The missing (4th) bolt hanger on pitch three has now been replaced. Pitches two and three also re-cleaned to get rid of the summer veg.
UPDATE: The missing (4th) bolt hanger on pitch three has now been replaced. Pitches two and three also re-cleaned to get rid of the summer veg.
Doug miller 13 Oct, 2015 AltLd dog
with CJoyce
with CJoyce
Hidden 13 Oct, 2015 AltLd dog
Tru 4 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
with rxmac
with rxmac
riddle 14 Mar, 2015 AltLd dog Opening climb of 2015. A real comedy show of how not to climb. Dogged, farted, moaned, and grunted my up this superb route.
with plilley
Opening climb of 2015. A real comedy show of how not to climb. Dogged, farted, moaned, and grunted my up this superb route.
with plilley
thomas108 ??, 2015 -
danmullett 1 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
hankyc 1 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S decided to aid first move for 6b tick, crux move not warmed up is nasty. classic day out the bolt missing on pitch 3 of the crux makes it actually quite bold, didn't really want to fall there but cams in the crack are definately possible if you bring some! easier pitches are definately the more enjoyable
decided to aid first move for 6b tick, crux move not warmed up is nasty. classic day out the bolt missing on pitch 3 of the crux makes it actually quite bold, didn't really want to fall there but cams in the crack are definately possible if you bring some! easier pitches are definately the more enjoyable
Ragged Herdwick ?Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead the two easier pitches and seconded the other two. Took a little longer than expected and wound up finishing as night was coming in. Very enjoyable climb, even with the grass pitches
Lead the two easier pitches and seconded the other two. Took a little longer than expected and wound up finishing as night was coming in. Very enjoyable climb, even with the grass pitches
FerClimbs 15 Mar, 2014 2nd dog My first multi pitch.
My first multi pitch.
Wise ??, 2014 -
Tristan.Stricker ??, 2014 - Mega top pitch. Spoiled by vegetation. **Warning** as of 26/10/14 the hanger on fourth bolt on third pitch is missing. This is on the crux of the very sandbag 6b pitch. You may be able to get away with a cam in the crack or a wire over the bolt head. Neither of which are recommended.
Mega top pitch. Spoiled by vegetation. **Warning** as of 26/10/14 the hanger on fourth bolt on third pitch is missing. This is on the crux of the very sandbag 6b pitch. You may be able to get away with a cam in the crack or a wire over the bolt head. Neither of which are recommended.
beardy mike ??, 2013 -
phardy 10 Mar, 2012 Lead rpt
philhilo 3 Mar, 2012 AltLd Lead 1 and 3. Tried clean 6c - seemed hard on cold arms on cold day. Resorted to 6b 1pt of aid version - still interesting. Freindly goat on 3 belay after fine jam crack. Helen thought top pitch worth 2*. Topped out as sun set. Over shot Shoot Gully. Descended dark woods by headtorch. Very steep slippery earth with disntegrating loose trees terminated by 10m hidden drop. Abbed down off tree to above Reservoir Walls, finally relocated Shoot Gully (knee deep in compost), phew!
with heg
Lead 1 and 3. Tried clean 6c - seemed hard on cold arms on cold day. Resorted to 6b 1pt of aid version - still interesting. Freindly goat on 3 belay after fine jam crack. Helen thought top pitch worth 2*. Topped out as sun set. Over shot Shoot Gully. Descended dark woods by headtorch. Very steep slippery earth with disntegrating loose trees terminated by 10m hidden drop. Abbed down off tree to above Reservoir Walls, finally relocated Shoot Gully (knee deep in compost), phew!
with heg
eddy-on-the-rocks 1 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S Thursday night entertainment head torch ascent. Shute gully decent was dirty and chocker with loose earth.
Thursday night entertainment head torch ascent. Shute gully decent was dirty and chocker with loose earth.
matt_read 1 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S "No Excuse Thursday" when the sun sets it's time to start climbing. Led P2 and P4, great climb in the dark P4 was fantastic. P3 was an effort well done to Ed for sticking with it and leading it. Shoot Gully was an EPIC, recommend using an alternative route down. All round great adventure.
"No Excuse Thursday" when the sun sets it's time to start climbing. Led P2 and P4, great climb in the dark P4 was fantastic. P3 was an effort well done to Ed for sticking with it and leading it. Shoot Gully was an EPIC, recommend using an alternative route down. All round great adventure.
ericinbristol 21 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S P1: Key hold too painful to use, so did the one point of aid variant for 6b. P2: Okay start then vegetated and scrappy. P3: Thrutchy jam crack, not great. P4: vegetated muddy walk. P5: Best of the lot. Really only a one star route.
with Ant Mace
P1: Key hold too painful to use, so did the one point of aid variant for 6b. P2: Okay start then vegetated and scrappy. P3: Thrutchy jam crack, not great. P4: vegetated muddy walk. P5: Best of the lot. Really only a one star route.
with Ant Mace
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 17 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S
Marti999 17 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S
Nick Russell 15 Oct, 2011 AltLd Aid on the first pitch. Would maybe be able to redpoint it... Definitely worth going back!
Aid on the first pitch. Would maybe be able to redpoint it... Definitely worth going back!
Ross Davidson 7 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S Lead P1 O/S. I thought the actual climbing was alright but the fact that all of the pitches are joined by horrible scrambles made it not that enjoyable. This deserves 1 star max.
Lead P1 O/S. I thought the actual climbing was alright but the fact that all of the pitches are joined by horrible scrambles made it not that enjoyable. This deserves 1 star max.
Hidden 7 Oct, 2011 AltLd
danp 7 Oct, 2011 AltLd fun but a bit discontinuous between pitches.
fun but a bit discontinuous between pitches.
Hidden 3 Oct, 2011 AltLd
Popkids 3 Oct, 2011 AltLd Had to aid the 6c pitch.We climbed it in 4 pitches.I had the 2 easier pitches which were great.Fantastic route.The nettles could do with abit of gardening.
with Kafoozalem
Had to aid the 6c pitch.We climbed it in 4 pitches.I had the 2 easier pitches which were great.Fantastic route.The nettles could do with abit of gardening.
with Kafoozalem
jennym32 1 Oct, 2011 AltLd dnf Did not start this route. Access was awful! Hour long scramble to get to the start of the route up a steep slope then along another steep slope through stinging nettles and brambles, about 50m high! A number of us developed urticaria which lasted 3 days from the number of nettle stings!After watching Dave struggle on the first pitch with aid, it was decided that getting 6 of us up it before dark was not going to happen.So we had to scramble back the way we'd came!!
with Mark Bown
Did not start this route. Access was awful! Hour long scramble to get to the start of the route up a steep slope then along another steep slope through stinging nettles and brambles, about 50m high! A number of us developed urticaria which lasted 3 days from the number of nettle stings!After watching Dave struggle on the first pitch with aid, it was decided that getting 6 of us up it before dark was not going to happen.So we had to scramble back the way we'd came!!
with Mark Bown
ruaidh 9 Apr, 2011 AltLd Aided first pitch of course. Wonderful final pitch. Easy decent down chute gully.
with msoldn
Aided first pitch of course. Wonderful final pitch. Easy decent down chute gully.
with msoldn
msoldn 9 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S lead p1 and p3. p1 felt easier than expected. p3 was the money pitch for me. great route throughout!
with Rory
lead p1 and p3. p1 felt easier than expected. p3 was the money pitch for me. great route throughout!
with Rory
Graham Atkins 27 Mar, 2011 AltLd
with will boxen
with will boxen
Hidden 12 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Oct, 2010 AltLd dog
stephaneSi 10 Oct, 2010 AltLd dog Good climb on a sunny day
with Dugald
Good climb on a sunny day
with Dugald
ian d f 30 Jun, 2010 Lead dnf Couldn't finish the route because no bolts on the second pitch
Couldn't finish the route because no bolts on the second pitch
tskelhon 18 Apr, 2010 AltLd rpt lead 6c and 6b pitch
with Bez
lead 6c and 6b pitch
with Bez
gknyus 18 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S clean leads, sloppy seconds. good fun!!!
clean leads, sloppy seconds. good fun!!!
Greg Pittam 10 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S Lead first (with aid, 6B) and final pitch. First pitch is really hard without aid... and 3rd pitch was pretty hard too!
with Raff
Lead first (with aid, 6B) and final pitch. First pitch is really hard without aid... and 3rd pitch was pretty hard too!
with Raff
andy dunn 13 Mar, 2010 AltLd dog the roof of the first pitch was unsurprisingly the stopper. having spent some time figuring it out it'll go free next time. Awesome crack pitch - though a touch crumbly in places.
with J
the roof of the first pitch was unsurprisingly the stopper. having spent some time figuring it out it'll go free next time. Awesome crack pitch - though a touch crumbly in places.
with J
derico 27 Jan, 2010 Lead O/S
Matt Clifton ??, 2010 Lead O/S
with Helen
with Helen
gripped01 ?Oct, 2009 -
with Rimon Than, Dave Tait
with Rimon Than, Dave Tait
SamStokes 29 Mar, 2009 2nd dog Done as aid on P1 but all of the bolts on pitch 2 were removed?
Done as aid on P1 but all of the bolts on pitch 2 were removed?
Cowflinger 21 Feb, 2009 Lead O/S 1st pitch only, climbed in damp / wet conditions with 1 point of aid. The 2nd pitch has had hangers removed in readiness for summer season ban.
with Pete Lewis
1st pitch only, climbed in damp / wet conditions with 1 point of aid. The 2nd pitch has had hangers removed in readiness for summer season ban.
with Pete Lewis
Hidden ??, 2009 AltLd dog
andybenham 11 Oct, 2008 AltLd dog Gareth led 1st & 3rd pitches clean - using the aid sling on the roof as described for p1 making it 6b. I led pitches 3 & 4. Spat off crack on p3 several times. Failed to redpoint and ended up dogging up it. P4 excellent (clean lead) - exposure awesome. Just need to go back and free it now.
with Gareth
Gareth led 1st & 3rd pitches clean - using the aid sling on the roof as described for p1 making it 6b. I led pitches 3 & 4. Spat off crack on p3 several times. Failed to redpoint and ended up dogging up it. P4 excellent (clean lead) - exposure awesome. Just need to go back and free it now.
with Gareth
Gareth 11 Oct, 2008 AltLd I aided the roof on the first pitch then lead the second pitch free. Andy lead the crack and the top pitch. Need to go back and climb the crack pitch clean.
I aided the roof on the first pitch then lead the second pitch free. Andy lead the crack and the top pitch. Need to go back and climb the crack pitch clean.
sebrider ?Oct, 2008 AltLd O/S Looked loke a long peice of choss from the bottom...boy I was wrong, amazing! Aided the 6C crux :(
with Peter Trevis-Bell
Looked loke a long peice of choss from the bottom...boy I was wrong, amazing! Aided the 6C crux :(
with Peter Trevis-Bell
Jon_Warner 27 Jan, 2008 AltLd O/S Fell off 6c pitch, very hard move to start the day. Used 6b aid on second. Home free after that, although the 6b crack is arkward.
Fell off 6c pitch, very hard move to start the day. Used 6b aid on second. Home free after that, although the 6b crack is arkward.
Hidden ??, 2008 Lead
Hidden ?Nov, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Nov, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Sep, 2007 2nd rpt
Ed Babs 13 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
with Kate
with Kate
kevinknights 9 Jun, 2007 2nd dog Aided roofs on P1 and crack on P3. Rest clean. Last pitch phenomenal - great exposure!
Aided roofs on P1 and crack on P3. Rest clean. Last pitch phenomenal - great exposure!
morphy richards ?Jun, 2007 AltLd dog Used aid on first pitch(wet),rested on 3rd pitch(wet).Super route, will do again as soon as access and weather allows.
with Richard Starling
Used aid on first pitch(wet),rested on 3rd pitch(wet).Super route, will do again as soon as access and weather allows.
with Richard Starling
tom.e 26 Mar, 2007 AltLd dog
with Charlie Everett
with Charlie Everett
maresia 10 Mar, 2007 AltLd O/S 1 point of aid on the first pitch so 6b not 6c. A bolted route that still has the same Cheddar "adventure" feel to it.
1 point of aid on the first pitch so 6b not 6c. A bolted route that still has the same Cheddar "adventure" feel to it.
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Paz 29 Oct, 2006 AltLd O/S Probably deserves 3 stars for the fun factor - the 5+ pitches are really good. Crack pitch is hard when wet. Fell off trying to free the first pitch so used the aid point and the rest (lead both 6b bits) was clean.
with tomski3
Probably deserves 3 stars for the fun factor - the 5+ pitches are really good. Crack pitch is hard when wet. Fell off trying to free the first pitch so used the aid point and the rest (lead both 6b bits) was clean.
with tomski3
Hidden 8 Oct, 2006 Lead
Paul Robertson 15 Sep, 2006 AltLd O/S Bolt for aid on first pitch
Bolt for aid on first pitch
guy xavier percival 14 Sep, 2006 AltLd O/S
with paul
with paul
just one more 12 Sep, 2006 AltLd O/S
with tim b
with tim b
peteetheridge ?Mar, 2006 2nd O/S Top pitch only.
with Nigel Elliott
Top pitch only.
with Nigel Elliott
Paz ??, 2006 AltLd
with tomski3
with tomski3
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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set