105m, 5 pitches. 6c(6b aid), 5+, 6b, -, 5+
One of the longest sport routes in the UK. Some think it classic, others think it too vegetated and scrappy for that status. P1 is the crux: the move with a painful pocket can be bypassed using an aid bolt. An exposed easier 5+ P2 then leads to the 6b corner crack of P3: this is awkward and much harder than it looks. A short grassy walk (P4 -) brings you to a gentle buttress and the final 5+ pitch: this is by far the best pitch on the route. Climb past the three ring bolts then another bolt: belay using a large square block.
Abseil descent of the route is not allowed. Top out. The Martin Crocker guidebook recommends that you 'Scramble down Shoot Gully': this is potentially lethal as it is so loose. If you go this way, you will probably end up abseiling off trees which have notices pinned on them saying that some of the trees are loose. The alternatives are to walk and then scramble easily to the Space Tourist ab station (not easy to find) or to walk further towards Cheddar and descend Sloworm Gully (the best way down).

Access: Some find the guide confusing. Approach from the left (Long Wall) looking towards the crag. Approaching from sunset buttress involves climbing (damaging) a goat fence and there's a good chance of slipping to your death!

D.P Jenkin, G.A Jenkin Mar/2006

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Cheddar Intermediate, The Longest Sport Routes in the UK, Cheddar Road To 7a Ruins, The Cheddar Nose.

will_lake 15/Oct AltLd dog

Took a few attempts to work out the 6c sequence. And I slipped on the 6b crack which was annoying. Filthy route, far too much vegetation

Richardlake 15/Oct Lead dog

Pitch 1 and 3. Got the crux move after a few attempts and some lost skin. Not very easy to read and potentially a little harder than 6c. The route itself is nowhere near as consistent than Stone cold fever. The ledges are full of waste height stinging nettles and brambles. The crack on the third pitch is hard for 6b and feels like it will always be a little damp.

seabrook 11/Mar Lead dnf


with Jan
Hidden 01/Jan Lead
NielsC 06/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Got the 6c move second attempt, had to warm up freezing fingers. Rest of the route quite straightforward, great 3rd and exposed final pitch. Tried to make a quick get away to escape the cold and rain, but rope caught on abseil, ended up coming down in the dark.

with Tamara
pguilloux 05/Nov/16 Lead dog

Only did first pitch because timing. The crux to pass the first roof looks desperate. Had to aid climb it.

with Luca
Chris Sansum 22/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Aided the two roofs on P1 - as planned!

with Chris 2, Nathan Crabb
Chris Holmes 22/Oct/16 2nd

Had to aid past the 6c roof and pull on QuickDraw on third pitch

with Crabby2009
Adam Hill 12/Oct/16 AltLd
CameronH 09/Oct/16 AltLd dog

Aided to make first pitch 6b, I led p2 and p4, Seth dragged me up the other two!

dom_joyce265 08/Oct/16 Lead dog

Messed up the first pitch. Should have got it clean. Dissapointed at all the vegetation.

phillipwright 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Had wanted to do this route for a very long time, slightly disappointing in all honesty. The ledges were extremely vegetated

afrosam 02/Oct/16 AltLd dog

Maybe not the best day to do it. A lot of wetness on all pitches bar the last one. Great "adventure sport" but not worth the 3* in my opinion

with RB1
Hidden 02/Oct/16 AltLd dog
richiebongo 15/May/16 Lead O/S

1st pitch only

with Nick Smith
Tom courtiour 13/Mar/16 AltLd β
Trisha Murphy 12/Mar/16 AltLd
Paul Baller 30/Jan/16 AltLd G/U
with matt stevens
Gordon Jenkin 16/Oct/15 -

UPDATE: The missing (4th) bolt hanger on pitch three has now been replaced. Pitches two and three also re-cleaned to get rid of the summer veg.

Doug miller 13/Oct/15 AltLd dog
Hidden 13/Oct/15 AltLd dog
Tru 04/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
riddle 14/Mar/15 AltLd dog

Opening climb of 2015. A real comedy show of how not to climb. Dogged, farted, moaned, and grunted my up this superb route.

thomas108 ??/2015 -
danmullett 01/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
hankyc 01/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

decided to aid first move for 6b tick, crux move not warmed up is nasty. classic day out the bolt missing on pitch 3 of the crux makes it actually quite bold, didn't really want to fall there but cams in the crack are definately possible if you bring some! easier pitches are definately the more enjoyable

FernandoHidalgo 15/Mar/14 2nd dog

My first multi pitch.

Tristan.Stricker ??/2014 -

Mega top pitch. Spoiled by vegetation. **Warning** as of 26/10/14 the hanger on fourth bolt on third pitch is missing. This is on the crux of the very sandbag 6b pitch. You may be able to get away with a cam in the crack or a wire over the bolt head. Neither of which are recommended.

beardy mike ??/2013 -
phardy 10/Mar/12 Lead rpt
philhilo 03/Mar/12 AltLd

Lead 1 and 3. Tried clean 6c - seemed hard on cold arms on cold day. Resorted to 6b 1pt of aid version - still interesting. Freindly goat on 3 belay after fine jam crack. Helen thought top pitch worth 2*. Topped out as sun set. Over shot Shoot Gully. Descended dark woods by headtorch. Very steep slippery earth with disntegrating loose trees terminated by 10m hidden drop. Abbed down off tree to above Reservoir Walls, finally relocated Shoot Gully (knee deep in compost), phew!

with Helen E
eddy-on-the-rocks 01/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Thursday night entertainment head torch ascent. Shute gully decent was dirty and chocker with loose earth.

matt_read 01/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

"No Excuse Thursday" when the sun sets it's time to start climbing. Led P2 and P4, great climb in the dark P4 was fantastic. P3 was an effort well done to Ed for sticking with it and leading it. Shoot Gully was an EPIC, recommend using an alternative route down. All round great adventure.

ericinbristol 21/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

P1: Key hold too painful to use, so did the one point of aid variant for 6b. P2: Okay start then vegetated and scrappy. P3: Thrutchy jam crack, not great. P4: vegetated muddy walk. P5: Best of the lot. Really only a one star route.

with Ant Mace
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 17/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
Marti999 17/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
Nick Russell 15/Oct/11 AltLd

Aid on the first pitch. Would maybe be able to redpoint it... Definitely worth going back!

Hidden 07/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/11 AltLd
danp 07/Oct/11 AltLd

fun but a bit discontinuous between pitches.

Hidden 03/Oct/11 AltLd
Popkids 03/Oct/11 AltLd

Had to aid the 6c pitch.We climbed it in 4 pitches.I had the 2 easier pitches which were great.Fantastic route.The nettles could do with abit of gardening.

with Kafoozalem
jennym32 01/Oct/11 AltLd dnf

Did not start this route. Access was awful! Hour long scramble to get to the start of the route up a steep slope then along another steep slope through stinging nettles and brambles, about 50m high! A number of us developed urticaria which lasted 3 days from the number of nettle stings!After watching Dave struggle on the first pitch with aid, it was decided that getting 6 of us up it before dark was not going to happen.So we had to scramble back the way we'd came!!

with Mark Bown
ruaidh 09/Apr/11 AltLd

Aided first pitch of course. Wonderful final pitch. Easy decent down chute gully.

with Michael
msoldn 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

lead p1 and p3. p1 felt easier than expected. p3 was the money pitch for me. great route throughout!

with Rory
Graham Atkins 27/Mar/11 AltLd
with will boxen
Hidden 12/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/10 AltLd dog
stephaneSi 10/Oct/10 AltLd dog

Good climb on a sunny day

ian d f 30/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Couldn't finish the route because no bolts on the second pitch

with Mark
tskelhon 18/Apr/10 AltLd rpt

lead 6c and 6b pitch

with Bez
gknyus 18/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

clean leads, sloppy seconds. good fun!!!

Greg Pittam 10/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Lead first (with aid, 6B) and final pitch. First pitch is really hard without aid... and 3rd pitch was pretty hard too!

with Raff
Hidden 09/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
andy dunn 13/Mar/10 AltLd dog

the roof of the first pitch was unsurprisingly the stopper. having spent some time figuring it out it'll go free next time. Awesome crack pitch - though a touch crumbly in places.

with J
derico 27/Jan/10 Lead O/S
gripped01 ?/Oct/09 -
with Rimon Than, Dave Tait
SamStokes 29/Mar/09 2nd dog

Done as aid on P1 but all of the bolts on pitch 2 were removed?

Cowflinger 21/Feb/09 Lead O/S

1st pitch only, climbed in damp / wet conditions with 1 point of aid. The 2nd pitch has had hangers removed in readiness for summer season ban.

with Pete Lewis
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd dog
andybenham 11/Oct/08 AltLd dog

Gareth led 1st & 3rd pitches clean - using the aid sling on the roof as described for p1 making it 6b. I led pitches 3 & 4. Spat off crack on p3 several times. Failed to redpoint and ended up dogging up it. P4 excellent (clean lead) - exposure awesome. Just need to go back and free it now.

Gareth 11/Oct/08 AltLd

I aided the roof on the first pitch then lead the second pitch free. Andy lead the crack and the top pitch. Need to go back and climb the crack pitch clean.

with Andrew
sebrider ?/Oct/08 AltLd O/S

Looked loke a long peice of choss from the bottom...boy I was wrong, amazing! Aided the 6C crux :(

with Peter Trevis-Bell
Jon_Warner 27/Jan/08 AltLd O/S

Fell off 6c pitch, very hard move to start the day. Used 6b aid on second. Home free after that, although the 6b crack is arkward.

with Jonny
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ?/Nov/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/07 2nd rpt
Ed Babs 13/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Kate
kevinknights 09/Jun/07 2nd dog

Aided roofs on P1 and crack on P3. Rest clean. Last pitch phenomenal - great exposure!

morphy richards ?/Jun/07 AltLd dog

Used aid on first pitch(wet),rested on 3rd pitch(wet).Super route, will do again as soon as access and weather allows.

with Richard Starling
tom.e 26/Mar/07 AltLd dog
with Charlie Everett
maresia 10/Mar/07 AltLd O/S

1 point of aid on the first pitch so 6b not 6c. A bolted route that still has the same Cheddar "adventure" feel to it.

Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Paz 29/Oct/06 AltLd O/S

Probably deserves 3 stars for the fun factor - the 5+ pitches are really good. Crack pitch is hard when wet. Fell off trying to free the first pitch so used the aid point and the rest (lead both 6b bits) was clean.

with TK
Hidden 08/Oct/06 Lead
Paul Robertson 15/Sep/06 AltLd O/S

Bolt for aid on first pitch

guy xavier percival 14/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
with paul
just one more 12/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
with tim b
peteetheridge ?/Mar/06 2nd O/S

Top pitch only.

with Nigel Elliott
Paz ??/2006 AltLd
with TK
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