UKC

Restricted Access

No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag)  have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!

The land above the crag is now designated open access land.

Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid. 

There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully. 

Rockfax Description
More sustained and technical than its neighbour, with spaced and difficult gear. Scramble up to a small spike below the steep slab. Climb up to a small ledge at about 10m. Move up and left to another small ledge - bold but eases after the initial moves. Sustained moves up a thin crack reach another ledge below the final slab. Finish up a faint groove on the left. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Target Routes 2019/2020 , Bold Tradprenticeship

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Rhoscolyn

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High E2
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
North West Passage

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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