Excellent climbing with a short bold crux and good holds on the roof, Best approached from the right (As Destiny) or by abseil from the huge thread at the top of the crag.

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK.


ClimberDateStyle
Barrie Schofield II 15/Sep/16 Lead O/S
garywong 14/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Had led P1 as part of Cow Pie earlier in the morning, so just did P2. Very run out, but crux is well protected.

with Peri Cheale
benkelsey 05/Sep/16 Lead rpt

In the rain, felt bold. Maybe went too far left too, gear was fairly poor

jon22 04/Sep/16 AltLd
with Dave Holland
markalmack 04/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with maddy
loic.menzies ?/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Dizz 05/Sep/15 2nd rpt
with EJ
Nick Wallis ?/Sep/15 2nd β
with James Hall, Stan
jsmcfarland 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S

E2 for how poorly protected and run out the route is. I basically solo'd up to the mini-ledge before the roof, placed a superlight offset the size of a large matchstick, then got some absolutely bomber gear in the weird undercut pockets before the crux. I was mainlining on adrenaline and fear by this point. Clipped the crap looking peg just to have 1 more quickdraw on my rope. The crux is totally different to the route and is actually a bit of a relief having huge jugs to swing around on, though the moves are pretty hard. Complete sandbag in the guidebook on what is actually a pretty dangerous route. Wouldn't recommend to anyone unless they have a good head and are totally solid at sketchy E1/E2. That said, it is good!

with Tim
tim.fairhall 31/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Sachi
Hidden 19/Sep/14 Lead O/S
rd20 17/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

RD P2

with Martin
smolders 17/Sep/14 2nd
Nick Russell 10/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

I led the easy P1; Alex P2. A bit of a runout there! Nice juggy climbing through the roof.

SJS 10/Sep/14 2nd
with Alex, Nick
Alex Winter 10/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led crux second pitch. Wasn't expecting the runout to the roof. Put the fear of god into me.

with Steve, Nick
khalidq 09/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Chris Bull
burto 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with the pimp
pimpy 04/Sep/14 Lead dnf

scary run out, backed off 3m from overlap

AndyL 01/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Bold, delicate face climbing contrasted with a safe and thuggish finish.

with seamus
Hidden ?/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
guy757 21/Aug/14 -
Mr Powly ??/2014 AltLd

Alt leads, because I lead the bold part and couldn't do the steep bit, so swapped with Rozzy who finished it off.

with Rozzy
Nick Biven ??/2014 -
Hidden 14/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
tonevert 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Kevin Faux
Justin T 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Nancy
Kevster 08/Sep/13 2nd rpt

Thinner on gear than I recall.

Johnny Baker ??/2013 -
James Oswald 20/Sep/12 Lead rpt

A scary ascent. Upon getting to the belay it began to drizzle incredibly lightly. Began climbing quickly to get out of there soon. The juggy 5a wall started to get wetter as the rain increased. After getting a stack of reasonable RPs in I downclimbed but as I did a hand slipped off a wet hold. 3 RPs held me, the shit one fell out. It then stopped raining and I got on with it, albeit quite gripped. The moves through the roof are burly and hard for 5b. Tough climbing, leave an ab rope in place to aid the ascent of the horrendous loose slope. Was glad for colin lowering a loop of the ab rope down to us. Much better to ab into than walk across from around the indy 500. Super route.

with Gwilym
Joris.Roulleau 18/Sep/12 Lead O/S

scary, although the climbing is easy

philhilo 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Bold for e1.ran out of time for destiny. Roof easy.

with Helen E
Kevster 14/Sep/12 2nd
with Will T
Hidden 14/Sep/12 Lead O/S
mjeffery 14/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Rob
Hidden 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Si ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Nick Wallis ?/Sep/12 2nd
with Martin Cooper
Alex the Alex ?/Aug/12 2nd
Robin Woodward ?/Aug/12 Lead
timtimpeggy ?/Aug/12 -
with Ev
Andy Clarke 07/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Good choice for greasy conditions, with positive holds on edges and flakes. Led P1. Gave myself black eye extricating gear above roof!

with Tim
nickstephens 05/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Voitech
Dale ?/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

really run it out up to the roof on the what i thought run out 5a climbing. Again greasy well I accept it now. Moves threw roof great fun big jugs easy 5b. top route. This sea salt grease is making things more fun for me anyway.

with mike
Liam FLeming 25/Aug/11 Lead
with karen dalzell
Hidden 18/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
spondulix 16/Aug/11 TR O/S
with Ben
soph ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Dan McManus
Dizz 15/Sep/10 2nd
with Richard S
ferdia 09/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

led crux pitch. stunning.

with Giles Cornah, Andrew Wielochowski
nickstephens 09/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Justin Ford, Nancy Jones
cem 07/Sep/10 2nd rpt
with Patrick Hutchison
Hidden 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
benkelsey 05/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Fantastic booming flake climbing up the face without much gear. lots of gear just below hard pull through the roof.

3 Names 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
irish paul 31/May/10 2nd O/S
with Dave Ripley
monika paprzycka 26/May/10 TR
Hidden 26/May/10 TR
khawk 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with AB, DT
datoon 31/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with K & AB
lukea 30/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Al
Adam Booth 21/Jun/09 AltLd
Hidden 21/Jun/09 2nd
chris wyatt 16/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Great route. Nik got the plum pitch. WARNING: Our abseil rope was badly cut here and I believe there is danger that some of the cemented in blocks on the mud slope could be pulled off. Take care!

with Nik and Hugh
Hidden 16/Sep/08 Lead β
dan gibson 02/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with AJ
AJ007 02/Sep/08 Lead

fell once, then completed. Very wet as rain storm came in while on the route.

with Dan
morganator 02/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Graham Schofield
AJM 14/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Great route. Bit wet under the roof, and bold in the middle, but great fun.

zero six ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
pete johnson ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Lun
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Steve Crowe ?/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with KM
Hidden ?/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 08/Sep/06 Lead O/S
HughM ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with notgnarly
Hidden 08/Sep/05 Lead O/S
cem 16/Aug/04 Lead rpt
with Dave Amos
cem 14/Sep/02 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/01 Lead O/S
Roget 06/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/01 AltLd
Rich Kirby ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Hugh
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Al Evans ??/2000 -
with Geraldine Taylor
DafSWMC ?/Sep/98 AltLd

Lead 1st(4b)

with ICMC
Hidden 15/Aug/98 2nd
Hidden 16/Aug/97 Lead
Martin Bennett 19/Aug/95 -
with SF
eroica64 ?/Sep/90 Lead O/S

Terrific solid E1.

with Denis Crampton
Steve Bell ??/1990 -
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 21
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set