**** in SMC Guide

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish Rock Climbs ****, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, MIA logbook must haves!, Summer Trip 2014, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The Road to Shibboleth, The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland, Great Scottish E1 Mountain Routes, The Great Gumclub Ticklist, CUMC First Ascents, Last of the Summer Climb, Scottish Rock Benchmarks, Showcase Britain & Ireland

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masa-alpin 30 Jun Show βeta
βeta: The description in the current SMC definitive guidebook of Ben Nevis (2002) about P3 (4c pitch immediately before the crux pitch) must be wrong – P3 should be 45m (or so) long as opposed to 25m, as described (as 45m) in the SMC selective and GL Scottish Rock South and in fact that of North-Eastern Grooves in the SMC definitive guide itself (in other words, the description in the definitive guide is self-contradictory)!
 
Show beta
βeta: The description in the current SMC definitive guidebook of Ben Nevis (2002) about P3 (4c pitch immediately before the crux pitch) must be wrong – P3 should be 45m (or so) long as opposed to 25m, as described (as 45m) in the SMC selective and GL Scottish Rock South and in fact that of North-Eastern Grooves in the SMC definitive guide itself (in other words, the description in the definitive guide is self-contradictory)!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 25 Aug AltLd O/S
metrorat 25 Aug AltLd O/S First three pitches a bit wet. Good quality climbing with relatively few scrappy bits. The plinth is a bit of a let-down. Finished up NEB then down ledge.
with Amy Wight
First three pitches a bit wet. Good quality climbing with relatively few scrappy bits. The plinth is a bit of a let-down. Finished up NEB then down ledge.
with Amy Wight
gjd 25 Aug AltLd O/S Odd pitches. Plus 3 on NE buttress. Wet at the start, as usual. Pitch 3 IS 45 m.
with Brian H
Odd pitches. Plus 3 on NE buttress. Wet at the start, as usual. Pitch 3 IS 45 m.
with Brian H
olekemi 6 Jul AltLd O/S A little bit wet here and there made it maybe harder, but this did not detract from a fantastic day. One of the better ways up the Ben in summer? We followed the SMC selective guide (Scottish Rock Climbs), and found it accurate, with the Serendipity and Arete variations as per normal.
with Martin F
A little bit wet here and there made it maybe harder, but this did not detract from a fantastic day. One of the better ways up the Ben in summer? We followed the SMC selective guide (Scottish Rock Climbs), and found it accurate, with the Serendipity and Arete variations as per normal.
with Martin F
Hidden 28 Jun AltLd dnf
masa-alpin 28 Jun AltLd dnf Retreated after P4 by 2-pitch abseiling, as it got too late. Anyway we must have gone off-route, traversing too soon at P4 (it was an interesting climb at 5b but scary with some loose rocks)… Later we figured out the description in the current SMC definitive guidebook (2002) of Ben Nevis of P3 must be wrong – P3 should be 45m (or so) long as opposed to 25m, as described (as 45m) in the SMC selective and GL Scottish Rock South and in fact that of North-Eastern Grooves in the SMC definitive guide itself (in other words, the description in the definitive guide is self-contradictory)!
Retreated after P4 by 2-pitch abseiling, as it got too late. Anyway we must have gone off-route, traversing too soon at P4 (it was an interesting climb at 5b but scary with some loose rocks)… Later we figured out the description in the current SMC definitive guidebook (2002) of Ben Nevis of P3 must be wrong – P3 should be 45m (or so) long as opposed to 25m, as described (as 45m) in the SMC selective and GL Scottish Rock South and in fact that of North-Eastern Grooves in the SMC definitive guide itself (in other words, the description in the definitive guide is self-contradictory)!
mim tiller 4 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S blooming good route. pitch 3 with the loose block was pretty goping but the rest was immaculate!
blooming good route. pitch 3 with the loose block was pretty goping but the rest was immaculate!
HannahFrancis 4 Sep, 2018 AltLd
Ri 5 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Really excellent. P1-3, then the wild traverse to the massive ledge.
Really excellent. P1-3, then the wild traverse to the massive ledge.
Uisdean hawthorn 5 Jul, 2018 AltLd Really cool
with Ri
Really cool
with Ri
MikwWebster 4 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with mikewilson789, Rab
with mikewilson789, Rab
mikewilson789 4 Jul, 2018 2nd β
with rab, MikwWebster
with rab, MikwWebster
nigel pearson 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd great climb. had to negotiate large snow patch at base of climb (went to left of it) so started on pitch 2. the climb is starts up the narrow buttress between minus 1 and minus 2 gullies. the left facing corner is quite small and starts half way up the second pitch. We got lost on the third pitch as the description is misleading. Essentially after passing the block you move left almost immediately to a vague niche and then climb up relatively easy climbing (short walls and ledges) for most of the pitch and the 'vast plinth' is actually directly above and not 'a move right'. The visible plinth on the right after about 30 metres is a red herring. This pitch also climbs to the left of the first visible overhang to a second overhang. The block at the belay at the end of p3 moves a bit. I would not advise belaying from it.
with Robin
great climb. had to negotiate large snow patch at base of climb (went to left of it) so started on pitch 2. the climb is starts up the narrow buttress between minus 1 and minus 2 gullies. the left facing corner is quite small and starts half way up the second pitch. We got lost on the third pitch as the description is misleading. Essentially after passing the block you move left almost immediately to a vague niche and then climb up relatively easy climbing (short walls and ledges) for most of the pitch and the 'vast plinth' is actually directly above and not 'a move right'. The visible plinth on the right after about 30 metres is a red herring. This pitch also climbs to the left of the first visible overhang to a second overhang. The block at the belay at the end of p3 moves a bit. I would not advise belaying from it.
with Robin
Goodstuff 29 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Odd pitches. Superb climbing after P3, which was damp and poorly protected. Pitches 4 and 5 are especially brilliant.
with Michael Mason
Odd pitches. Superb climbing after P3, which was damp and poorly protected. Pitches 4 and 5 are especially brilliant.
with Michael Mason
ThunderBeest 27 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Not the easiest route finding. Easier than Centurion. The big loose block is scary, but not that loose. Really good quality climb and rock.
Not the easiest route finding. Easier than Centurion. The big loose block is scary, but not that loose. Really good quality climb and rock.
John McKenna 27 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Dougbart 24 Jun, 2018 AltLd Amazing, one of my best days climbing. Lead odds. Finished up NE Buttress and down Tower Ridge
Amazing, one of my best days climbing. Lead odds. Finished up NE Buttress and down Tower Ridge
Captain Solo 24 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt Led even pitches this time. A brilliant route, every pitch is quality, a superb day.
Led even pitches this time. A brilliant route, every pitch is quality, a superb day.
Hidden 28 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
malone 28 May, 2018 AltLd
williap 28 May, 2018 AltLd Incorrect final few m to pitch 5, then escaped left
with Jase
Incorrect final few m to pitch 5, then escaped left
with Jase
Hidden 27 May, 2018 2nd
Finlandia 27 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Snow to just below P2 belay adds to alpine feel. We managed in trainers, others more secure with axes. I did not see any unusually dangerous blocks. Big block above P2 belay but looks like it might still be there in 100 years unless pushed.. 3 teams of 3 today so no chance of that ;) mountain looking great. Strong S wind - route sheltered but blasted coming down to CMD col.
with Annaclaire16, JH
Snow to just below P2 belay adds to alpine feel. We managed in trainers, others more secure with axes. I did not see any unusually dangerous blocks. Big block above P2 belay but looks like it might still be there in 100 years unless pushed.. 3 teams of 3 today so no chance of that ;) mountain looking great. Strong S wind - route sheltered but blasted coming down to CMD col.
with Annaclaire16, JH
Little AndyH 27 May, 2018 AltLd
with joe.91
with joe.91
steveb2006 27 May, 2018 AltLd Long superb route - big snow field at base - will probably last all summer. Up NE Buttress to summit
with Paul E, Mick F
Long superb route - big snow field at base - will probably last all summer. Up NE Buttress to summit
with Paul E, Mick F
Hidden 27 May, 2018 AltLd
Annaclaire16 27 May, 2018 AltLd Fantastic route with all the variety you would want from a quality mountain route. Finished up NE buttress to summit.
Fantastic route with all the variety you would want from a quality mountain route. Finished up NE buttress to summit.
joe.91 27 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Best route I've currently done in Scotland! Lead pitches 2, 3, 4, 5, 10 and NE Buttress. Long day, gets the sun in the afternoon no loose blocks and bone dry!
Best route I've currently done in Scotland! Lead pitches 2, 3, 4, 5, 10 and NE Buttress. Long day, gets the sun in the afternoon no loose blocks and bone dry!
dave o 26 May, 2018 AltLd Top notch, proper big mountain route in stunning weather
with Steve Addy
Top notch, proper big mountain route in stunning weather
with Steve Addy
Ali D 19 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Great route, pitch gradings seem a little random but all good fun. snowy approach, sun and dry rock
with arose
Great route, pitch gradings seem a little random but all good fun. snowy approach, sun and dry rock
with arose
arose 19 May, 2018 AltLd Good fun route though felt like an HVS with a couple of awkward moves. first two pitches currently banked out with snow.
with Ali D
Good fun route though felt like an HVS with a couple of awkward moves. first two pitches currently banked out with snow.
with Ali D
jhamlet ?May, 2018 2nd O/S
with Anna Danby
with Anna Danby
tjmillen ?May, 2018 AltLd
with Dave
with Dave
Scott Quinn 12 May, 2017 AltLd O/S serendipity & arête variations - solo up ne buttress, good mountain outing
serendipity & arête variations - solo up ne buttress, good mountain outing
Tom.Priestley 12 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Sketchy snow crossing approach. Serendipity and Arete variations. Continued up NE Buttress.
Sketchy snow crossing approach. Serendipity and Arete variations. Continued up NE Buttress.
Andrew Nelson ??, 2017 -
Hidden 5 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
annep11 5 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S P 3,5,7,9, (with Serendipity and Arete variations) and block-led Northeast Buttress to top out after 10pm. Stunning route and a huge first day on the Ben. Snow patch and bergschrund made the approach far more serious than the climbing itself.
P 3,5,7,9, (with Serendipity and Arete variations) and block-led Northeast Buttress to top out after 10pm. Stunning route and a huge first day on the Ben. Snow patch and bergschrund made the approach far more serious than the climbing itself.
Hidden 9 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Nathan Adam 9 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Superb route, initial pitches are poor but stick with it. Serendipity and Arete variations are excellent and pull through that roof into the sunshine was total bliss! Route finding is not that difficult, Latters book kept us right. Been on the list for a while now so glad to finally tick it off!
Superb route, initial pitches are poor but stick with it. Serendipity and Arete variations are excellent and pull through that roof into the sunshine was total bliss! Route finding is not that difficult, Latters book kept us right. Been on the list for a while now so glad to finally tick it off!
CaelanB 8 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S generally fairly easy for the grades. the first 5b pitch is more like 5a, though the 5a pitch is more like 5b. And the last 3 pitches are all 4a or unrated. There are loose blocks on the route, but no more so than any other mountain route, and you needn't worry too much about route finding. It isn't as hard as its reputation might suggest. we used the smc guide and had no problems. All in all maybe the best mountain route I've ever done?
generally fairly easy for the grades. the first 5b pitch is more like 5a, though the 5a pitch is more like 5b. And the last 3 pitches are all 4a or unrated. There are loose blocks on the route, but no more so than any other mountain route, and you needn't worry too much about route finding. It isn't as hard as its reputation might suggest. we used the smc guide and had no problems. All in all maybe the best mountain route I've ever done?
benclimbing 12 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Very good route but there are some serious blocks to watch out for - often poised directly above the belayer! P1, accidentally soloed. P2, wet but straightforward. P3, 4c on wet and poor rock initially but improves with height. P4, 5b and awesome, good gear. P5, 5b with a defined, well protected crux. P6, very easy 4c. P7, 5b spectacular traverse with a hard pull through the overlap. In situ nut and cam. P8, 4c with some horribly loose blocks at the top. Moved together for the rest of the route and NE buttress all the way to the summit. Epic day out!
Very good route but there are some serious blocks to watch out for - often poised directly above the belayer! P1, accidentally soloed. P2, wet but straightforward. P3, 4c on wet and poor rock initially but improves with height. P4, 5b and awesome, good gear. P5, 5b with a defined, well protected crux. P6, very easy 4c. P7, 5b spectacular traverse with a hard pull through the overlap. In situ nut and cam. P8, 4c with some horribly loose blocks at the top. Moved together for the rest of the route and NE buttress all the way to the summit. Epic day out!
jonskippy 11 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S An amazing route, don't be put off buy the first three pitches!
An amazing route, don't be put off buy the first three pitches!
Hidden 22 Jul, 2013 AltLd
redjerry 19 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Paul Wood
with Paul Wood
Hidden 11 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Liam Ingram 11 Jul, 2013 AltLd They aren't joking about that block on pitch 3! Pitch 4 is very serious but steady. After pitch 4 the route finding became difficult and we ended up lost after 6 pitches with it getting dark. 3 pitches left took us to NEB. Lots of loose rock, moss filled cracks and less than inspiring gear marred this classic for me. If someone would like to show me where the route goes after pitch 4 then that would be great!
They aren't joking about that block on pitch 3! Pitch 4 is very serious but steady. After pitch 4 the route finding became difficult and we ended up lost after 6 pitches with it getting dark. 3 pitches left took us to NEB. Lots of loose rock, moss filled cracks and less than inspiring gear marred this classic for me. If someone would like to show me where the route goes after pitch 4 then that would be great!
Hidden ??, 2013 -
AmyG 11 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
with carlos
with carlos
Fatherof2 ?Jul, 2012 -
with Roger
with Roger
sebrider 4 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S What a great route of almost alpine proportions :) There is a large dubious block on pitch 3. Just after this and to the left (5m) are two smaller blocks stacked on top of one another. Don't pull on them the will come out...perhaps they should be trundled. Cleans up very nicely after pitch 3 :)
with jazzyjackson
What a great route of almost alpine proportions :) There is a large dubious block on pitch 3. Just after this and to the left (5m) are two smaller blocks stacked on top of one another. Don't pull on them the will come out...perhaps they should be trundled. Cleans up very nicely after pitch 3 :)
with jazzyjackson
jazzyjackson 4 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S an Alpine class route. some great climbing on mostly good rock except pitch 3 where a horror block is poised for an extinction level event! With the NE buttress finish it must have been 12 pitches and some moving together. Snow pack at the bottom of point 5 gully was pretty hard and we used rocks as ice daggers and cut steps in a Laurel and Hardy style while being pelted with rocks by Jeffries on Tower Ridge. Amazing day out.
with sebrider
an Alpine class route. some great climbing on mostly good rock except pitch 3 where a horror block is poised for an extinction level event! With the NE buttress finish it must have been 12 pitches and some moving together. Snow pack at the bottom of point 5 gully was pretty hard and we used rocks as ice daggers and cut steps in a Laurel and Hardy style while being pelted with rocks by Jeffries on Tower Ridge. Amazing day out.
with sebrider
m dunn ??, 2012 -
KeithAlexander 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
GraemeDiack 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Bit too loose on the third pitch for my liking, big block at 6 metres as per description is totally gonna go and is directly above the belayer! Didn't really think it deserved 4 stars, the traverse under the roof is good, but on the whole 1 star max.
Bit too loose on the third pitch for my liking, big block at 6 metres as per description is totally gonna go and is directly above the belayer! Didn't really think it deserved 4 stars, the traverse under the roof is good, but on the whole 1 star max.
simon_D 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Yeh this route suffers from drainage so p1 - 3 are wet but climbable with gear to be found. P4 5a is hard to read, best to go straight up from the recess and the lower section was wet, although it improves with height - as does the rest of the route. Tricky move on the last 4C pitch on the slab. Romping up and down ledge route took ages! Well worth doing :]
with Alex
Yeh this route suffers from drainage so p1 - 3 are wet but climbable with gear to be found. P4 5a is hard to read, best to go straight up from the recess and the lower section was wet, although it improves with height - as does the rest of the route. Tricky move on the last 4C pitch on the slab. Romping up and down ledge route took ages! Well worth doing :]
with Alex
Hidden 27 Jul, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 24 Jul, 2011 Lead
GaryK 23 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S A fantastic route. Quite cold for July, we had to wear hats under our helmets and gloves at each belay. The two 5b pitches are excellent.
with Ewan Lyons
A fantastic route. Quite cold for July, we had to wear hats under our helmets and gloves at each belay. The two 5b pitches are excellent.
with Ewan Lyons
Captain Solo 23 Jul, 2011 AltLd A bit damp on the first 2 pitches but superb climbing thereafter. Went a bit too far left on 5a pitch which meant an extra pitch to get back on track. Finished up NE Buttress, a grand day out.
with GaryK
A bit damp on the first 2 pitches but superb climbing thereafter. Went a bit too far left on 5a pitch which meant an extra pitch to get back on track. Finished up NE Buttress, a grand day out.
with GaryK
tim newton 4 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S with serendipity and arete variations.
with serendipity and arete variations.
Exodus 4 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with Will Sim
with Will Sim
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
drew8connelly ??, 2011 -
with karen
with karen
Sean Bell 3 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S First two pitches were wet, loose and gearless, I would have backed off but Neil perservered thankfully.I ended up only leading one as time was ticking.Middle pitches were fantastic and a nice blast up NEB was a pleasant finish.Great day out.
with Neil Carnegie
First two pitches were wet, loose and gearless, I would have backed off but Neil perservered thankfully.I ended up only leading one as time was ticking.Middle pitches were fantastic and a nice blast up NEB was a pleasant finish.Great day out.
with Neil Carnegie
jamestheyip 8 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Fantastic! Rained the night before so wet and slimy in places. Tricky moves are well protected though.
with pete123
Fantastic! Rained the night before so wet and slimy in places. Tricky moves are well protected though.
with pete123
9fingerjon 26 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with James H
with James H
Hidden ??, 2010 -
MonkeyDawson 15 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S Serendipity Variation and then Arete variation.
with Neil Redgrave
Serendipity Variation and then Arete variation.
with Neil Redgrave
Hidden 14 Sep, 2009 2nd
cat22 12 Sep, 2009 2nd
Ross Barnes 12 Sep, 2009 AltLd
Neil Adams 12 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
R0bbie 12 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
hwackerhage 12 Sep, 2009 - Alpine feel. 14 pitches with the North East Buttress finish. First 5b should be 5a and 5a pitch should be 5b in my opinion.
with Robbie Miller
Alpine feel. 14 pitches with the North East Buttress finish. First 5b should be 5a and 5a pitch should be 5b in my opinion.
with Robbie Miller
Hidden ?Jul, 2009 2nd
Charlie wp Hill ??, 2009 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2009 -
Paz 8 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S Like hell is this 4*s - it just shows how the Scottish star system has got so full of itself it's nearly useless. At best it's a 2* route on a 4* mountain, with 3 or 4 nice moves on some good rock. These plus points are almost justified by the enormous length, approach walk in and scramble and lengthy walk off and descent, but basically as a minimum you should probably enjoy these other aspects too if you want to get on it and have a 4* experience. I did the `serendipity' (?) 5a/b pitch and the 5b strip roof and it was raining in some form or other for most of the route.
Like hell is this 4*s - it just shows how the Scottish star system has got so full of itself it's nearly useless. At best it's a 2* route on a 4* mountain, with 3 or 4 nice moves on some good rock. These plus points are almost justified by the enormous length, approach walk in and scramble and lengthy walk off and descent, but basically as a minimum you should probably enjoy these other aspects too if you want to get on it and have a 4* experience. I did the `serendipity' (?) 5a/b pitch and the 5b strip roof and it was raining in some form or other for most of the route.
Hidden 8 Sep, 2008 AltLd
sgl 26 May, 2008 AltLd
with duncan
with duncan
decs 26 May, 2008 AltLd O/S The first couple of pitches are not that great. Good climbing and great positions from then on. Easy for E1.
with sgl
The first couple of pitches are not that great. Good climbing and great positions from then on. Easy for E1.
with sgl
WB 25 May, 2008 AltLd O/S brilliant route easy climbing in a great position
with GuyM
brilliant route easy climbing in a great position
with GuyM
Pete Graham 25 May, 2008 AltLd
with Rick Graham, Ted Rogers
with Rick Graham, Ted Rogers
pete johnson ?May, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Paul Donnithorne
with Paul Donnithorne
GuyM ?May, 2008 AltLd
with WB
with WB
smac ??, 2008 -
Lone Rider 10 Jun, 2007 AltLd Excellent climbing with interesting route finding. Did Serindipity Variations. Arete variations look worthwhile for another visit. Descended by scrambling down and across south face of NEB.
with R Webb and J Edwards
Excellent climbing with interesting route finding. Did Serindipity Variations. Arete variations look worthwhile for another visit. Descended by scrambling down and across south face of NEB.
with R Webb and J Edwards
Neil McA 16 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S Fantastic 'Alpine' rock route with a bergschrund start and a NE Buttress finish. Great climbing. Did Pin and Steeple on the Shelterstone the previous day so it made for a top weekend raid from Sheffield.
with Nick Wallace
Fantastic 'Alpine' rock route with a bergschrund start and a NE Buttress finish. Great climbing. Did Pin and Steeple on the Shelterstone the previous day so it made for a top weekend raid from Sheffield.
with Nick Wallace
DaveHK 15 Jul, 2006 -
with Nigel Holmes
with Nigel Holmes
Nick Wallis ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Neil McAdie
with Neil McAdie
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Hidden ?Jul, 2004 AltLd O/S
alkira ??, 1996 -
brianrunner ??, 1996 AltLd a good route in great positions but somehow not in the same class as centurian and the bat
a good route in great positions but somehow not in the same class as centurian and the bat
roncaves 19 Aug, 1995 AltLd
with Gerry Arcari
with Gerry Arcari
charlesmfrench 25 Jun, 1995 AltLd O/S
with Tom Prentice
with Tom Prentice
mike lawrence? ??, 1995 -
Hidden ?Jun, 1992 AltLd
Ian Carr 24 May, 1992 -
with Charlotte
with Charlotte
Hidden ??, 1989 AltLd
uphillnow 30 May, 1984 AltLd After doing Centurion - great conditions
with Andrew (Pog) Horn
After doing Centurion - great conditions
with Andrew (Pog) Horn
Davy Gunn ??, 1980 -
Martin Bennett 22 Aug, 1976 -
with JD
with JD
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 29
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set