Right-hand line over the overlap, then easier above. Take many quick-draws.

Ticklists: Road to 7a, cheddar.


ClimberDateStyle
Rock to Fakey 29/Jun Lead RP

12 bolts inc 2 @ lower off. Bolt 9 (hard to see from ground, just above a ledge) is only necessary if u go direct on last 3 bolts. Easy version using rt groove nr top with low crux between b3+4 only 6b/+, but i think if u did direct b 8 to 10, feels like 6c to me, mid 6c., not easy, + risk of hitting ledge + tree stump b8-9. My redpoint was the easy way using forbidden rt groove at top 3 bolts, omitting b9, as its stupid hard to reach that way!

with Action9
Vespa63 27/Jun Lead O/S
with Rich
Rock to Fakey 27/Jun Lead dog

Got to b3 with 3 down climbs but foot popped off on 3rd down. Let Sean take it to the top. Next attempts with all clips in, Could have got the start past b3to 4 1st go, but not really, cos it was actually 4th or 5th go b4 i popped my left foot upto the foot pocket out left to assist getting up the top of bulge past bt 3 to 4. Bolt 9 seemed in a scary weird place out left, but that's cos u aren't supposed to chicken out of the real upper climb by going in the groove out right! Hadn't read the guide, but didn't like the official way. Seems blank around there + off balance, will try that bit properly on RP but it's got me worried. I know i've got the bottom sussed tho, which might /not b the crux? Got to remember this beta for 2months now.. its possible?

Hidden 25/Jun 2nd
dprib123 15/Jun Lead dog

Start ok,fell doing proper finish left 6b+.

with jessie
badgerjockey 06/May Lead RP
with k_k
k_k 06/May Lead O/S
simonsnake77 24/Apr Lead dog

Really committing start which I took one rest on, definitely glad we had the clip stick. Then nice climbing to a ledge where I went right (should have read the book) got pumped then attempted a down climb before taking a whipper. I was convinced the vertical crack hold was a right handed! After a rest and a pull on a QuickDraw I finished.

simonsnake77 24/Apr TR rpt

Having watched my climbing partner cruise this with just one rest on the first overhang I had to top rope just to rid myself of the demons. Found it much easier and finished clean. Will be back to lead.

RangerMcFreindly 19/Mar Lead dog

Rested on the first hanger after falling on the first move then, stuck the move but with the weather turning the top section was wet pushing me into the forbidden grove on the right. Will be back.

tom169 05/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Claire
DredStripe 05/Nov/16 Lead O/S
Digga 05/Nov/16 Lead rpt
elliptic 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Dawn
sajrf123 09/Jul/16 TR

Tough start even on top rope !

WillAndrew 21/Jun/16 Lead β
with Ali
ali.scott 21/Jun/16 Lead RP
bonelessivar 05/Apr/16 Lead O/S
DanielleMarie 20/Mar/16 Lead β

First 3 bolts top roped.

David Clover ?/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Wise ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 Lead
piersg ??/2016 Lead
mop449 26/Oct/15 Lead O/S

I think 6b+ is a more realistic grade. 2 very committing moves but both next to draws. Nice climb. Very pleased with the onsight. Had to try hard.

with Sam Clark
RichyBOYY 22/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Josh S
DanHB 10/Oct/15 Lead

Nice mix of climbing.... bit of an overhang.... then some simpler straight up and then a stretched out cheeky finger testing finish

Digga 27/Sep/15 Lead RP
artmal 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Martin
Gloria 13/Sep/15 2nd
lewiz 13/Sep/15 Lead RP

Easy enough a good few years later ;)

with Yan Mao
rachelvlc 13/Sep/15 Lead dog

Putting the draws in felt hard and scary, even when using the forbidden groove!

kenneM 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Felix
felixizzy 05/Sep/15 Lead RP

Think I tried this once before and didn't make it clean. got it to day tho.

with Mike
EllieWoods 18/Jun/15 2nd dog

Nice. Rested at the crux.

with pete belfield
Neil 16/May/15 Lead O/S
vertigo 16/Apr/15 Lead β

In the gathering darkness. Definitely not 6c! 6b+ as in guide.

with Simon
Stanners 18/Mar/15 Lead O/S

A cold warm up but didn't feel as hard as 6C. Nice climbing.

with guy percivel
guy xavier percival 18/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with rob
youwillfindjimbo 12/Feb/15 Lead rpt
thomas108 ??/2015 -
Brian H 26/Oct/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Oct/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
afrosam 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Digga ?/Jun/14 Lead dog

Atmospheric gear retrieval ascent amongst the rain and thunder!

luke harvie ?/Jun/14 Lead dog
BFG 18/May/14 Lead
Trisha Murphy 18/May/14 Lead O/S
with Ben
grp 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S
mossrug 28/Apr/13 Lead dog

Yoiks - Found this tough. Bailed out to the right hand gully. Realised that I didn't have enough quick draws which was a bit stupid. Clean next time...

with Rob
mallardhealhook 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
dakter 20/Apr/13 Lead dog
jon_ridley 04/Feb/13 Lead O/S
tskelhon ??/2013 Lead O/S
Nialllusby ??/2013 2nd O/S
KitRabbette 11/Nov/12 Lead dog

2 falls at the third clip crux, made more difficult by the wet holds and lack of feeling in my fingers!

jonleighton 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
KitRabbette 14/Oct/12 Lead dog

Two falls at the start, one rest due to running out of quickdraws (not needed physically)

DaveX 15/Aug/12 TR dog

Mangled the top of the route a bit.

Hidden 29/Jun/12 Lead β
TomGudgeon 29/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Currently the hardest sport lead i've done to date.

thomasadixon 26/May/12 Lead O/S

Went into the groove cause I hadn't read the guidebook and it's the obvious way. This way felt soft (obviously) and good.

with Ben
Hidden 14/Apr/12 Lead dog
Kev Little ??/2012 Lead O/S
ewanthomson 23/Oct/11 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead β
mol 24/Sep/11 Lead

6b+ in guidebook..nice route

with Si Brown, Jesse
fragglerock 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S

I made the classic mistake of trending too far right at the top. Still a very pleasant route with an easier-than-expected (if strenuous) start. Lots of bolts.

pawelgregorczyk 15/Jun/11 Lead
with gromek
Gibbo 06/Jun/11 Lead dog
with Claire Chipperfield, Tom Gibbison
PeterDawson 14/May/11 Lead O/S
paultaylor 08/May/11 Lead
Hidden 08/May/11 Lead rpt
LC ?/May/11 Lead O/S
jominator 09/Apr/11 Lead
with realchardarmy
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Didymus 07/Apr/11 Lead RP

2nd go

with Rich
lewiz 26/Mar/11 Lead dog

Dogged all the way up. Didn't do all the moves, cheated and used the groove to the right. Can't climb 6b+

with Owen John
knicos 27/Feb/11 Lead
with Luke Dyer
marcduhig 12/Feb/11 Lead dog

Slipped twice at start. Stayed right but should have gone direct. Lots missing near the top.

with Andrew
njlyons 06/Feb/11 Lead dog
Steve Winslow ?/Jan/11 -
PaulTclimbing ??/2011 Lead
with Pete n Nona et al
ian d f 06/Nov/10 Lead rpt

Went to the left of the top two bolts, harder and much more fun climbing (than going right). Quite delicate.

with Mark
Ant Mace 22/Oct/10 2nd β
ericinbristol 22/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Ant Mace
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks 26/Sep/10 Lead rpt
dan23584 16/Sep/10 Lead RP
mlg678 ?/Sep/10 -
richiebongo 30/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith, Jon Didymus
ian d f 29/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden 28/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
davidrblakeman 12/Jun/10 Lead β
gonggashan ?/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 28/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 24/May/10 Lead rpt
tobydunford 23/May/10 Lead O/S
with Max P
tombeasley 23/May/10 Lead rpt
with Fran
archiecb 22/May/10 Lead dog

I climbed this to take pictures of Tom on 'Tied in knots' so I technically 'dogged' it when I stopped to take pictures on prussik. I didnt approach the top over the bulge either and I think this makes the grade...not that I read the book either.

Luke Dawson 22/May/10 Lead O/S
koalapie ?/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Mar/10 Lead RP
brices ??/2010 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Richard Hall 05/Oct/09 Lead O/S

One move wonder.

with James Marshall
andy dunn 26/Sep/09 Lead RP
with J
andy dunn 25/Sep/09 Lead dog

was way too far to the right at the top - after working the top moves the line is definately striaght up the (relatively) blank walls in line with the bolts.

with Mike
tombeasley 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S

great start moves but let down with the moves higher up

with Chris & G
Jack R-N 27/Jun/09 Lead β

First ^C onsight. Although it did feel a tad easy. Wouldnt give it a star though due to the super slippy start

Hidden 18/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Jack R-N 16/Jun/09 Lead β
Hidden ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Tom Heslam ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Rosea
bpmclimb 21/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with Clare
morphy richards ?/Sep/08 Lead dog
with Richard Starling
Mark Stevenson 19/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/08 Lead RP
Hidden ?/May/08 AltLd O/S
_m.cox_ ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Robyn Nelson
Hidden 01/Mar/08 Lead RP
nugski 01/Mar/08 Lead dog

Fell once on my very first 6c. Will get this next time.

with sash
northerngreg 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Jo Lee
Hidden ??/2008 Lead dog
Chubbard 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S
JPGR 14/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Daniel
Paz 20/May/07 Lead O/S
with AM
chris sm 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Seemed very low on the grade. May have been too far right at the top. However, the groove is the obvious line. Going up the face left would still not make it 6c IMO.

with Pippa Froggatt
Paul Robertson 07/Mar/07 Lead O/S

Seemed quite easy. Maybe I was too far right near the top.

with Mark Courtiour
Billg ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Paul Bowen
Hidden ??/2007 -
just one more 28/Apr/06 Lead
with tim b
climbergg 01/Jan/06 2nd
Tim M 01/Jan/06 Lead O/S
with Emma
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
just one more 13/Oct/05 Lead
with Svenn G
Hidden 07/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Feb/05 Lead O/S
PaulTclimbing ??/2005 Lead
with Neville
11 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set