Rockfax Description
This route is actually called Penny, however the name has been known for longer as Katana (a Japanese sword) which is a much better name describing the look and feel of the diagonal slit across the wall. It is a sustained affair and a real test-piece. Start just left of the crack, and make a difficult and committing move to gain it. Follow it to King Bee Crack, and on to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This route is actually called Penny, however the name has been known for longer as Katana (a Japaneese sword) which is a much better name describing the look and feel of the diagonal slit across the wall. It is sustained and painful affair, and a real test-piece. Start just left of the crack, and make a difficult and committing move to gain the it. Follow it to King Bee Crack, and on to the top.

J Redhead, K Robertson 1982

Ticklists: Gogarth Extreme Gems, North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Hidden 16/Jul/17 2nd β
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 15/Jul/17 Lead rpt
Duncan Campbell 15/Jul/17 2nd rpt
with Gus
Hidden 15/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Gus 15/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Katekeltie 15/Jul/17 2nd
with Fatboy
Hidden 08/Jul/17 2nd
Mike_Hayes 08/Jul/17 Lead rpt
with Duncan Barrack
Ellis Bird ?/Jul/17 Lead O/S
owain86 01/Jun/17 Lead β

Dan lead, then abbed and strippped gear, then I did it. Ace route, nice and steady, lots of gear. (The photo on ukc is of a different route)

with Dan
Dan724 01/Jun/17 Lead G/U

Tried this 3 years ago with Ian and got totally shut down. Felt really steady and enjoyable today, now that I know how to fingerlock properly.

with Owain
Paul ablitt 31/May/17 Lead RP

Mark lead and i seconded then lead myself the following day.

williap 29/May/17 2nd O/S
scottcoates 27/May/17 Lead O/S
with williap
mjeffery 17/May/17 2nd O/S
with Luca
LJC 17/May/17 Lead O/S
mrteale 14/May/17 Lead O/S

First E4 in N. Wales. Felt very steady once established, cracking little climb.

with sd2k
mattnuttall 22/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Felt straightforward... If you can finger jam from years quarry crack climbing then no more than E3. Also jugs when you need them and more footholds than you might expect from below.

with Alan Holden
Hidden 21/Apr/17 2nd
Mike W 16/Apr/17 2nd rpt
Chriswallis2 16/Apr/17 Lead rpt
with Mike W
Hidden 09/Apr/17 Lead rpt
anguskille 06/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Sadie ?/Mar/17 Lead G/U

Fell of this last year, got the badger this time! Great route.

with Lindy Smith
jezb1 21/Jan/17 Lead RP

Really happy to get this one. Failed on it on the last attempts and didn't get it first go today..! Went down smoothly on the successful attempt when I chilled out a bit!

LauraGoodchild 21/Jan/17 2nd
jezb1 05/Jan/17 Lead dog

about 2 or 3 moves from the end of the difficulties but powered out... Next time!

Hidden ??/2017 -
joedean ??/2017 -
The old James turnbull 28/Oct/16 Lead O/S

On aidens gear

with aiden
tebs 28/Oct/16 2nd
with Burns
Hidden 28/Aug/16 Lead dnf
rosiehawker 28/Aug/16 2nd
Duncan Campbell 31/Jul/16 Lead G/U

Tried six years ago and obviously didn't get very far. Pleased to find it not too difficult this time, managed to keep the pump at bay and didn't just sprint to easy ground.

with Georgia
Steve Crowe 21/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Sustained and interesting all the way

with KM
Emily C 17/Jul/16 2nd
with Jon
jonleighton 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
robpartridge 27/Jun/16 Lead dnf
with Helen
Kris2fa 14/Jun/16 2nd dog
with Adam24B
Adam24B 14/Jun/16 Lead O/S

First E4 onsight! Was very close to coming off a couple of times, mainly due to the weird body positions.

Dale Comley 05/Jun/16 Lead β

Once I eventually committed into the crack it was fine.

Matt Cooke 04/Jun/16 2nd rpt
kelliroberts3 30/May/16 2nd
with Jim Tan
James Oswald 28/May/16 Lead rpt

Excellent route. Got a very pumped right arm because I spent too long trying to place gear above my head with my left hand. Very pumpy but no really hard moves after the start.

andyinglis 27/May/16 Lead dog

Felt stressed all the way up this for some reason then fell a move from the end of the difficulties. Hot and humid but still a poor effort.

with Monica
Jim Tan ?/May/16 Lead O/S
Chriswallis2 30/Apr/16 Lead β

on Mike's gear

with Mike W
Mike W 30/Apr/16 Lead
NDD 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Heliya
Hidden 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Siobhan Vye 16/Apr/16 2nd
tprebs 16/Apr/16 Lead
Hidden 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Ramon Marin 29/Sep/15 Lead β

On daves gear

with dave pickford
Hannes B 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Neil C, Aidan
Mike_Hayes 25/Jul/15 2nd
andi turner 17/May/15 Lead

Good, bit pumpy!

with pete bridgwood
MichaelGallimore 19/Apr/15 2nd rpt

Fell off the start, again!

with Andy Cmc
Hidden 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
james.slater 05/Apr/15 2nd O/S

I was nearly crying with pump.

Hidden 20/Sep/14 Lead dog
Maddie 23/Aug/14 2nd dog

Struggled alot again. Start took me about 6 attempts

with remus
Dan Hostford 23/Aug/14 2nd dog
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Ed morris 11/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with stefan
Stefan_Morris 11/Aug/14 2nd O/S
James Oswald 28/Jun/14 2nd dog

Fell off when my foot slipped off a huge foothold on the last metre. All the holds are much worse than they look..

Rachel Slater 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S

I did get pumped, but not too pumped, more like end of the day fatigue.

alexjz 18/Jun/14 Lead RP

Awesome route, practised once on shunt the week before. Pumpy but took ages on it. First E4 6a

will9911 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Tony Madden
alexjz 11/Jun/14 TR dog

top rope with shunt. Brilliant line, will return to lead it

Alistair Corbett 10/Jun/14 Lead O/S

soft i think but brill line

with Matt Robinson
C coldwell-storry 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Neil Chelton
mes32 26/May/14 2nd dog

Sustained and hard.

with Wilki
nathanlee 25/May/14 Lead O/S

So much gear! Class

with Henry Francis, Jack Lawledge, Oli Grounsell
bwestwood 09/May/14 2nd
pie_eater_pete 09/May/14 Lead O/S
Glyn 26/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Amy
Amy UT 25/Apr/14 2nd
with Glyn
dswansonlow 12/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Brilliant route, what a line! Darren's was so steady and managed to lace the thing. None of the moves were a give-away, everything required thought and specific body positioning. Didn't notice any 6a moves though, it felt like mostly 5c moves seperated by a few barely adequate rests. The crux for me was where it steepens shortly before joining KBC.

shed_hed 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Awesome line and a quality route! The climbing isn't obvious and the holds are never straight forward meaning the moves look/feel impossible until you change you body position slightly. Not really my style but felt nice and steady on it. Took a few attempts climbing up and down to commit to the crux moves at the bottom of the route. Once that was done it was sustained climbing all the way but managed to find a rest and place a sinker nut after almost every move so absolutely laced the route and never actually got pumped. Fantastic!

Seymore Butt ??/2014 -
masa-alpin 13/Oct/13 Lead dnf

I went off route at the first few metres before reaching the main crack, climbed back down and went for the correct line. But I was too pumped, so climbed back down to the ground. Rob kindly retrieved the gear I left by various tactics. Next time! It will be still an onsight ascent, as I didn't weigh any gear.

with Rob G
Hidden 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 20/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Gareth E
Ally Smith 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Owen
Chriswallis2 30/May/13 Lead dog

Sweated out of the flared jams on the last move before the easy climbing. Gutted.

with Rachel, Dumpster Dave
AJM 30/May/13 Lead O/S

First E4. Hell yeah! So drained by the top. Ace route. For clarity, the one called Penny in the Gogarth North definitive and Katana almost everywhere else.

Tubs 30/May/13 2nd dog

Good lead from Andy. Seconded with one slip due to the mounting pump.

with AJM
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Luke_G 05/May/13 Lead dog

Safe as houses, sporty moves, great for pushing your grade.

Dave Parton 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with Adam Ellwood
Danny Crump 04/May/13 2nd
Sardien 03/Mar/13 2nd dog

Still very hard - too hard. Insanely good lead by Gwen

with Gwen Lancashire
JRae 09/Dec/12 Lead O/S


JRae 09/Dec/12 Lead O/S

Very very good. Really sustained then a distinct 6a crux at the top, maybe a 6a move at the bottom too.

mwatson 09/Dec/12 2nd rpt

found this really had when i lead it, didn't even get pumped this time

MichaelGallimore 04/Nov/12 2nd O/S

Came off at the beginning after wrestling with a cam for a while. Very pumpy route but fine if you keep moving.

with Stephan
Hidden 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Rachel S 14/Aug/12 2nd dog
with Nik
mshorter 20/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with dunc
Sardien 25/Jun/12 2nd dog

Helena did amazing on the lead. I found it very puzzling to read the route - where and how to hold the holds. Amazing moves tho.

with Helena Robinson
Hidden 04/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/May/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/12 2nd rpt
switch 05/May/12 Lead rpt
with Leanne
Hidden 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S
piersg ??/2012 2nd
Hidden 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Ewan Russell 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Connor
Hidden 12/Nov/11 2nd
Andy Hardy 27/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 25/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/11 Lead O/S
dan ely 21/Aug/11 Lead RP
with emily
mynyddresident 17/Aug/11 Lead β

Poorish holds for a few moves at the end but gd kit by the quartz crimp then a bit of manouvreing yourself to take the crack the correct way.

with erika
gforce 07/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Good route but I see this is hard E4 according to the votes. Get a grip! Wouldn't have complained if this was graded E3 5c. Sustained, well protected but never hard and not even that pumpy.

with Emma
dan ely 01/Aug/11 Lead dog
with pearce
Swotson 16/Jul/11 2nd dog

Great lead by Nic - her first cleanE3 for quite a few years. Couldn't quite figure out the crux move beforerunning out of steam. When I did it I realisedIshouldhave gone with the flow and probaly would have worked

with Nic Basnett
dannyboy83 07/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 07/Jul/11 Lead O/S

No 6a moves on this, just steady pumpy 5c with tons of gear! Quality route.

stevebarratt 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Rob Sandercock
vertically_challenged 07/Jun/11 Lead dnf

first onsight e4 attempt. wish i had paid more attention to the last sentence in description "follow the pumpy crack". down climbed twice then went for it. got halfway then heavens opened. lowered off ...... ps. loose block is now neatly placed at the bottom of the climb if anybody wants to put it back!

wolf.leeb 31/May/11 Lead β

nic's gear for the 1st half... put loads of gear in the 2nd half for some mad reason... pump..

with nic
mynyddresident 31/May/11 Lead dnf

Too much time contemplating the tricky bit above the loose block. Handed over the reigns..

with wolf
mynyddresident 31/May/11 2nd
with wolf
lost.arrow 30/May/11 -
ksjs 11/May/11 2nd rpt

Bit tougher when wet - quartz was very greasy.

with Joey
alpinist63 ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 27/Apr/11 Lead β

Soooooooo pumpy but great gear all the way up. A real sting in the tail too.

with Dad
Liam FLeming 17/Apr/11 Lead
switch 13/Mar/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 01/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Toby Dunn ??/2011 -
willoates 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S

never been so pumped!!! could barely squeeze cam towards the end of the crack! a good fight!

with lawrence
david morse 07/Oct/10 Lead RP

Got spanked on this a couple of weeks ago, went back and managed to control the pump to the top. Best line on the crag maybe? Brilliant route!

with duncan+heather
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead dog
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead
centurion05 08/Aug/10 2nd
with patch
London Luke ?/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead O/S
ellis 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Tom Bridgeland
Luke Brooks 12/May/10 Lead
with John Orr
Adam Booth 08/May/10 Lead dnf

Climbed back from 1/3rd height. Will try it again when I'm less knackered.

JulesV 03/May/10 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Shauna 03/May/10 2nd dog

hard work

with Jules
Rowansb 02/May/10 Lead O/S

pumpy but no stopper moves

with sean
datoon 02/May/10 Lead dog
with K
ksjs 11/Mar/10 Lead rpt

Final Solution not Penny. 2nd time on this and really, start and finish aside, its very straightforward at E3. gear at the end is very good so no issues if you do peel off. a more controlled effort to leave the crack this time but still awkward

with owen
Hidden 06/Feb/10 Lead
Hidden 06/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Feb/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Jan/10 Lead
Mike Goldthorp 17/Jan/10 Lead RP

Tried it half a year ago and came off, went quite smoothly this time. not over till its over

Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Dave Searle 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with gav
Rich Kirby 17/Oct/09 2nd rpt

Now called Penny?!

with Kev
Rich Kirby 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Now called Final Solution - why on earth would you go changing the names after 20 years!

with Kev
Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd rpt
smallerrich 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Was meant to be an attempt on sai dancing, but got bored of trying to find where this route went and followed the crack to the top. Sai dancing seems a very contrived line...

with James
farmus21 27/Sep/09 2nd
Glyn 16/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Tony Stone
Alex Mason 24/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Think this is actually called final solution. Gnarly, started up sai dancing struggled for gear. then entered the crack and rode a pump all the way to the top.

with Guy VG
Alex Mason 24/Aug/09 Lead β

On steves gear, but hung around it for authenticity, great route with a great line. Soft but way too pumpy for an E3 leader?

Ram MkiV 24/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Al
will9911 22/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with will
Hidden 18/Aug/09 Lead dog
Rob Pitt 13/Aug/09 Lead rpt
Toby Dunn 13/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
ksjs 13/Aug/09 2nd rpt
with rob
Ed Booth 01/Aug/09 2nd

felt alot steadier this time round. But i was seconding. good effort will doing it straight off.

with will sim
mux 01/Aug/09 Lead

after a spanking on it earlier in the year I got back on it. It still hurt, but went better this time.

with Barry
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/09 Lead O/S
mattyork2 07/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Adam Hodgson and Emma Twyford
C Mclean ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Ben Macnally
Toby Dunn 02/May/09 Lead O/S
with Joe Bawden
ksjs 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S

correct name = Final Solution (right to left diagonal crack parallel and right of Penny [previously Katana]). very good with good gear throughout. think the 2nd peg on Sai Dancing has snapped but still easy to protect. exciting the crack is harder than you might like - save some juice...

Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Luke Brooks 01/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Tom Eagle
barni 23/Jan/09 Lead dog
with Shoulders
Andrew Nelson ??/2009 -
with paul Chiddle
barni 14/Dec/08 Lead dog
with Sam
mattyork2 15/Nov/08 Lead O/S

Hmmmm. Relieved to pull into 'King Bee Crack.' Techincal, sustained climbing between inventive poor rests proved to be the order of the day. Another 'on-off' moment experienced on this route when moving into the upper crux- scary! The start seemed protectable but on bounce test the 'baby bouncer' setup all ripped out with a hail of high velocity metal work. Pumpy!

with Pete Harrison
lukea 08/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Al
Dave Rumney 28/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Tanya Milner
feilx 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Phil Davis
dan gibson 18/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with sam read
Hidden ?/Jul/08 TR O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/08 Lead
centurion05 13/May/08 TR O/S
Docent 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with sari
dctarrant2000 25/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Polly Tarrant
barni 02/Sep/07 Lead dog
with Guy
ksjs 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S

good, relatively sustained climbing with only 1 trickier section. physical if you havent got stamina but good gear throughout. soft E4.

nige 24/Jul/07 Lead
with mark hounslea
Hidden 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S
KKilroy ??/2007 2nd O/S
with Luke
a_radiohead_fan ?/Oct/06 -
IOAN D 04/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with rick
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 18/May/06 Lead G/U
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Chris Reid 28/May/05 Lead O/S
pete johnson 24/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Lun
ali_robb ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
rapidrich 24/Mar/03 Lead β

Completed the top after, Si and Tom couldn't top out

with Si
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/01 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
sadams 30/May/00 Lead O/S
with Tom Briggs
nige ?/Mar/00 2nd
with mark hounslea
Hidden ??/2000 Lead dog
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/99 Lead β
Hidden ?/Jun/98 2nd
pete johnson 28/Sep/97 Lead
with Dave Wills
michael burrows 16/Mar/97 Lead dog
with sandy dobie
Rich Kirby ??/1997 Lead dog
with Hugh
pete johnson 19/May/96 Lead
with Lun
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
jfletcher 16/Apr/94 Lead O/S
with Nick Wharton
Stoney Boy 21/Apr/93 Lead O/S
with Bob Marks, Neil McCallum
Nick Biven 13/Sep/92 2nd
with Rich Whitwell
Mark Kemball 13/Aug/92 Lead
with Alison Dorey
wynaptomos ?/May/90 Lead O/S
mik1miller ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1986 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1986 Lead O/S
GuyM ??/1985 -
24 users have this on their wishlist
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 30
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set