37m.

Rockfax Description
This route is actually called Penny, however the name has been known for longer as Katana (a Japanese sword) which is a much better name describing the look and feel of the diagonal slit across the wall. It is a sustained affair and a real test-piece. Start just left of the crack, and make a difficult and committing move to gain it. Follow it to King Bee Crack, and on to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This route is actually called Penny, however the name has been known for longer as Katana (a Japaneese sword) which is a much better name describing the look and feel of the diagonal slit across the wall. It is sustained and painful affair, and a real test-piece. Start just left of the crack, and make a difficult and committing move to gain the it. Follow it to King Bee Crack, and on to the top.

J Redhead, K Robertson 1982

Ticklists

Gogarth Extreme Gems, North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate E4 ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
pete johnson 15 Aug 2nd
MikePycroft 15 Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Jul Lead O/S
janegallwey 7 Jul 2nd O/S
DeaNomNom 29 Jun Lead O/S
M_Robinson 17 Jun Lead O/S
Bristoldave 15 Jun Lead O/S
with Luke
with Luke
accynez 8 Jun Lead O/S Steady. E3 5c
with Iron Mike
Steady. E3 5c
with Iron Mike
George_Surf 5 Jun Lead O/S Not a warm up (someone on branflake). The inital crack was a bit wet but ok, mega safe once you get going, and there's a sneaky move right at the top that i wasn't ready for! Harder than it looks but great climbing. Ab'd and stripped
Not a warm up (someone on branflake). The inital crack was a bit wet but ok, mega safe once you get going, and there's a sneaky move right at the top that i wasn't ready for! Harder than it looks but great climbing. Ab'd and stripped
rachelpearce01 5 Jun Lead β Well psyched with this. George went first and stripped it, left a wire in to stop swinging out. Just the sort of route I was after, super safe and sustained. Really enjoyed the climbing on this and didn’t find anything too desperate.
Well psyched with this. George went first and stripped it, left a wire in to stop swinging out. Just the sort of route I was after, super safe and sustained. Really enjoyed the climbing on this and didn’t find anything too desperate.
drcorbasisgod 26 May Lead O/S
with Ursula
with Ursula
RM199 26 May 2nd dog Really sustained. Well beyond me but I could do every move. Must get fitter
Really sustained. Well beyond me but I could do every move. Must get fitter
Flavio 25 May Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 25 May 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Hidden 17 May 2nd rpt
Owen Davies 18 Apr Lead O/S Always dreamt of doing this route since my first visit to Holyhead mountain and it didn't disappoint! tricky start but not as pumpy as what people make it out to be!
with Mum
Always dreamt of doing this route since my first visit to Holyhead mountain and it didn't disappoint! tricky start but not as pumpy as what people make it out to be!
with Mum
Tony Walker 12 Apr Lead O/S
malone 24 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
with Ed hastings
with Ed hastings
felixwilkins 23 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
BC 6 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Solid route
Solid route
Archie ball 29 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Bit damp. Bit pumped. Solid E4. Solid route. Dad bailed on the second.
with Dad
Bit damp. Bit pumped. Solid E4. Solid route. Dad bailed on the second.
with Dad
Tala A 20 Aug, 2018 2nd dog Slipped off a wet hold at the start. Barely stayed on due to pump up the rest of it.
with Caff
Slipped off a wet hold at the start. Barely stayed on due to pump up the rest of it.
with Caff
Hidden 21 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Gabe Oliver 21 Jul, 2018 Lead β Super happy with this. Can’t claim the onsight as I had help with the bottom section. Came in from the right wall of the crack because of some seepage low down. Really good technical climbing throughout.
Super happy with this. Can’t claim the onsight as I had help with the bottom section. Came in from the right wall of the crack because of some seepage low down. Really good technical climbing throughout.
harry_lewis 15 Jul, 2018 Lead β On shauns gear, a grade easier this way
On shauns gear, a grade easier this way
shaunhumphreys 15 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Not a good warm up! Took 50 mins and placed 16 runners in the 20-ish meters of hard climbing, the flash pump turned into terminal death pump and I just about scraped my way up the last few moves, class! Strong case of placing far too much gear!! Everyone else then pissed up it in 10 mins on my gear... bastards!
Not a good warm up! Took 50 mins and placed 16 runners in the 20-ish meters of hard climbing, the flash pump turned into terminal death pump and I just about scraped my way up the last few moves, class! Strong case of placing far too much gear!! Everyone else then pissed up it in 10 mins on my gear... bastards!
Teappleby 15 Jul, 2018 Lead β On shauns gear. Felt greasy, but I think that's just the rock. Good fun watching Shaun!
with Tash Kondrashova, Olga Kondrashova, harry_lewis, shaunhumphreys, amccann
On shauns gear. Felt greasy, but I think that's just the rock. Good fun watching Shaun!
with Tash Kondrashova, Olga Kondrashova, harry_lewis, shaunhumphreys, amccann
Jack jk 14 Jul, 2018 2nd β Cracking effort again from Dexter. Spotted a couple of useful holds from his go but no other beta. Not sure if I'm fit enough to get the gear in and stay on leading, but great fun and pleased to get it clean.
Cracking effort again from Dexter. Spotted a couple of useful holds from his go but no other beta. Not sure if I'm fit enough to get the gear in and stay on leading, but great fun and pleased to get it clean.
Dexter JW 14 Jul, 2018 Lead dog
with Jack jk
with Jack jk
piken 14 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Sarah
with Sarah
Glynbob 21 Apr, 2018 2nd dog A brutal second
A brutal second
Sophie Nunn 21 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
with Glynbob, Keri
with Glynbob, Keri
Hannes B 20 Apr, 2018 Lead rpt
with Delyth
with Delyth
JamesWilliams 1 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S Rumpy pumpy! First E4 onsight not on slate
Rumpy pumpy! First E4 onsight not on slate
Hidden 16 Jul, 2017 2nd β
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 15 Jul, 2017 Lead rpt
Duncan Campbell 15 Jul, 2017 2nd rpt
with Gus
with Gus
Hidden 15 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Gus 15 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Katekeltie 15 Jul, 2017 2nd
Hidden 8 Jul, 2017 2nd
Mike_Hayes 8 Jul, 2017 Lead rpt
with Duncan Barrack
with Duncan Barrack
Ellis Bird ?Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
owain86 1 Jun, 2017 Lead β Dan lead, then abbed and strippped gear, then I did it. Ace route, nice and steady, lots of gear. (The photo on ukc is of a different route)
Dan lead, then abbed and strippped gear, then I did it. Ace route, nice and steady, lots of gear. (The photo on ukc is of a different route)
Dan Hale 1 Jun, 2017 Lead G/U Tried this 3 years ago with Ian and got totally shut down. Felt really steady and enjoyable today, now that I know how to fingerlock properly.
with owain86
Tried this 3 years ago with Ian and got totally shut down. Felt really steady and enjoyable today, now that I know how to fingerlock properly.
with owain86
Paul ablitt 31 May, 2017 Lead RP Mark lead and i seconded then lead myself the following day.
Mark lead and i seconded then lead myself the following day.
williap 29 May, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 27 May, 2017 Lead O/S
mjeffery 17 May, 2017 2nd O/S
with LucaC
with LucaC
LucaC 17 May, 2017 Lead O/S
mrteale 14 May, 2017 Lead O/S First E4 in N. Wales. Felt very steady once established, cracking little climb.
with sd2k
First E4 in N. Wales. Felt very steady once established, cracking little climb.
with sd2k
mattnuttall 22 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Felt straightforward... If you can finger jam from years quarry crack climbing then no more than E3. Also jugs when you need them and more footholds than you might expect from below.
with Alan Holden
Felt straightforward... If you can finger jam from years quarry crack climbing then no more than E3. Also jugs when you need them and more footholds than you might expect from below.
with Alan Holden
Hidden 21 Apr, 2017 2nd
Mike W 16 Apr, 2017 2nd rpt
Chriswallis2 16 Apr, 2017 Lead rpt
with Mike W
with Mike W
Andy Peak 1 9 Apr, 2017 Lead rpt Got to the top this time after I found the hold I was missing, fun fun fun
Got to the top this time after I found the hold I was missing, fun fun fun
Hidden 6 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Sadie ?Mar, 2017 Lead G/U Fell of this last year, got the badger this time! Great route.
with Lindy Smith
Fell of this last year, got the badger this time! Great route.
with Lindy Smith
jezb1 21 Jan, 2017 Lead RP Really happy to get this one. Failed on it on the last attempts and didn't get it first go today..! Went down smoothly on the successful attempt when I chilled out a bit!
Really happy to get this one. Failed on it on the last attempts and didn't get it first go today..! Went down smoothly on the successful attempt when I chilled out a bit!
LauraGoodchild 21 Jan, 2017 2nd
jezb1 5 Jan, 2017 Lead dog about 2 or 3 moves from the end of the difficulties but powered out... Next time!
about 2 or 3 moves from the end of the difficulties but powered out... Next time!
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Lewis Perrin Williams ??, 2017 2nd
with Fat-Boy
with Fat-Boy
joedean ??, 2017 -
The old James turnbull 28 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S On aidens gear
with aiden
On aidens gear
with aiden
Hidden 28 Oct, 2016 2nd
Andy Peak 1 28 Aug, 2016 Lead dnf Got to the last move then decided to mess about seing how much gear I cud place will go next time
Got to the last move then decided to mess about seing how much gear I cud place will go next time
rosiehawker 28 Aug, 2016 2nd
GeorgT ?Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
Duncan Campbell 31 Jul, 2016 Lead G/U Tried six years ago and obviously didn't get very far. Pleased to find it not too difficult this time, managed to keep the pump at bay and didn't just sprint to easy ground.
with Georgia
Tried six years ago and obviously didn't get very far. Pleased to find it not too difficult this time, managed to keep the pump at bay and didn't just sprint to easy ground.
with Georgia
Steve Crowe 21 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Sustained and interesting all the way
with karin
Sustained and interesting all the way
with karin
Emily C 17 Jul, 2016 2nd
jonleighton 17 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with Emily C
with Emily C
robpartridge 27 Jun, 2016 Lead dnf
with Helen
with Helen
Kris2fa 14 Jun, 2016 2nd dog
with Adam24B
with Adam24B
Adam24B 14 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S First E4 onsight! Was very close to coming off a couple of times, mainly due to the weird body positions.
with Kris2fa
First E4 onsight! Was very close to coming off a couple of times, mainly due to the weird body positions.
with Kris2fa
Dale Comley 5 Jun, 2016 Lead β Once I eventually committed into the crack it was fine.
Once I eventually committed into the crack it was fine.
Matt Cooke 4 Jun, 2016 2nd rpt
kelliroberts3 30 May, 2016 2nd
with Jim Tan
with Jim Tan
James Oswald 28 May, 2016 Lead rpt Excellent route. Got a very pumped right arm because I spent too long trying to place gear above my head with my left hand. Very pumpy but no really hard moves after the start.
with RGriff
Excellent route. Got a very pumped right arm because I spent too long trying to place gear above my head with my left hand. Very pumpy but no really hard moves after the start.
with RGriff
andyinglis 27 May, 2016 Lead dog Felt stressed all the way up this for some reason then fell a move from the end of the difficulties. Hot and humid but still a poor effort.
with Monica
Felt stressed all the way up this for some reason then fell a move from the end of the difficulties. Hot and humid but still a poor effort.
with Monica
Jim Tan ?May, 2016 Lead O/S
Chriswallis2 30 Apr, 2016 Lead β on Mike's gear
with Mike W
on Mike's gear
with Mike W
Mike W 30 Apr, 2016 Lead
NDD 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with Heliya
with Heliya
Hidden 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Siobhan Vye 16 Apr, 2016 2nd
with tprebs
with tprebs
tprebs 16 Apr, 2016 Lead
Hidden 10 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
Ramon Marin 29 Sep, 2015 Lead β On daves gear
with dave pickford
On daves gear
with dave pickford
Hannes B 1 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Neil C, Aidan
with Neil C, Aidan
Mike_Hayes 25 Jul, 2015 2nd
with ChrisC
with ChrisC
andi turner 17 May, 2015 Lead Good, bit pumpy!
with pete bridgwood
Good, bit pumpy!
with pete bridgwood
Hidden 19 Apr, 2015 2nd rpt
Hidden 5 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
james.slater 5 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S I was nearly crying with pump.
I was nearly crying with pump.
Hidden 20 Sep, 2014 Lead dog
Maddie 23 Aug, 2014 2nd dog Struggled alot again. Start took me about 6 attempts
with remus
Struggled alot again. Start took me about 6 attempts
with remus
Hidden 23 Aug, 2014 Lead G/U
Dan Hostford 23 Aug, 2014 2nd dog
Hidden 23 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Ed morris 11 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with stefan
with stefan
Stefan_Morris 11 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
James Oswald 28 Jun, 2014 2nd dog Fell off when my foot slipped off a huge foothold on the last metre. All the holds are much worse than they look..
Fell off when my foot slipped off a huge foothold on the last metre. All the holds are much worse than they look..
Rachel Slater 28 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S I did get pumped, but not too pumped, more like end of the day fatigue.
I did get pumped, but not too pumped, more like end of the day fatigue.
alexjz 18 Jun, 2014 Lead RP Awesome route, practised once on shunt the week before. Pumpy but took ages on it. First E4 6a
Awesome route, practised once on shunt the week before. Pumpy but took ages on it. First E4 6a
will9911 16 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with Tony Madden
with Tony Madden
alexjz 11 Jun, 2014 TR dog top rope with shunt. Brilliant line, will return to lead it
top rope with shunt. Brilliant line, will return to lead it
Alistair Corbett 10 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S soft i think but brill line
with Matt Robinson
soft i think but brill line
with Matt Robinson
C coldwell-storry 8 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with Neil Chelton
with Neil Chelton
mes32 26 May, 2014 2nd dog Sustained and hard.
with Wilki
Sustained and hard.
with Wilki
nathanlee 25 May, 2014 Lead O/S So much gear! Class
with Henry Francis, Jack Lawledge, goli
So much gear! Class
with Henry Francis, Jack Lawledge, goli
bwestwood 9 May, 2014 2nd
pie_eater_pete 9 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Glyn 26 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
with Amy UT
with Amy UT
Amy UT 25 Apr, 2014 2nd
with Glyn
with Glyn
dswansonlow 12 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S Brilliant route, what a line! Darren's was so steady and managed to lace the thing. None of the moves were a give-away, everything required thought and specific body positioning. Didn't notice any 6a moves though, it felt like mostly 5c moves seperated by a few barely adequate rests. The crux for me was where it steepens shortly before joining KBC.
Brilliant route, what a line! Darren's was so steady and managed to lace the thing. None of the moves were a give-away, everything required thought and specific body positioning. Didn't notice any 6a moves though, it felt like mostly 5c moves seperated by a few barely adequate rests. The crux for me was where it steepens shortly before joining KBC.
shed_hed 12 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Awesome line and a quality route! The climbing isn't obvious and the holds are never straight forward meaning the moves look/feel impossible until you change you body position slightly. Not really my style but felt nice and steady on it. Took a few attempts climbing up and down to commit to the crux moves at the bottom of the route. Once that was done it was sustained climbing all the way but managed to find a rest and place a sinker nut after almost every move so absolutely laced the route and never actually got pumped. Fantastic!
Awesome line and a quality route! The climbing isn't obvious and the holds are never straight forward meaning the moves look/feel impossible until you change you body position slightly. Not really my style but felt nice and steady on it. Took a few attempts climbing up and down to commit to the crux moves at the bottom of the route. Once that was done it was sustained climbing all the way but managed to find a rest and place a sinker nut after almost every move so absolutely laced the route and never actually got pumped. Fantastic!
Seymore Butt ??, 2014 Lead
masa-alpin 13 Oct, 2013 Lead dnf I went off route at the first few metres before reaching the main crack, climbed back down and went for the correct line. But I was too pumped, so climbed back down to the ground. Rob kindly retrieved the gear I left by various tactics. Next time! It will be still an onsight ascent, as I didn't weigh any gear.
I went off route at the first few metres before reaching the main crack, climbed back down and went for the correct line. But I was too pumped, so climbed back down to the ground. Rob kindly retrieved the gear I left by various tactics. Next time! It will be still an onsight ascent, as I didn't weigh any gear.
Hidden 24 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 20 Jun, 2013 Lead rpt
with Gareth E
with Gareth E
Ally Smith 1 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with Owen
with Owen
Chriswallis2 30 May, 2013 Lead dog Sweated out of the flared jams on the last move before the easy climbing. Gutted.
with Rachel, davetrueman
Sweated out of the flared jams on the last move before the easy climbing. Gutted.
with Rachel, davetrueman
AJM 30 May, 2013 Lead O/S First E4. Hell yeah! So drained by the top. Ace route. For clarity, the one called Penny in the Gogarth North definitive and Katana almost everywhere else.
with Tubs
First E4. Hell yeah! So drained by the top. Ace route. For clarity, the one called Penny in the Gogarth North definitive and Katana almost everywhere else.
with Tubs
Tubs 30 May, 2013 2nd dog Good lead from Andy. Seconded with one slip due to the mounting pump.
with AJM
Good lead from Andy. Seconded with one slip due to the mounting pump.
with AJM
Hidden 25 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 5 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Luke_G 5 May, 2013 Lead dog Safe as houses, sporty moves, great for pushing your grade.
Safe as houses, sporty moves, great for pushing your grade.
Dave Parton 4 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with Adam Ellwood
with Adam Ellwood
Danny Crump 4 May, 2013 2nd
with Luke_G
with Luke_G
Sardien 3 Mar, 2013 2nd dog Still very hard - too hard. Insanely good lead by Gwen
with Gwen Lancashire
Still very hard - too hard. Insanely good lead by Gwen
with Gwen Lancashire
JRae 9 Dec, 2012 Lead O/S Penny
with mwatson
Penny
with mwatson
JRae 9 Dec, 2012 Lead O/S Very very good. Really sustained then a distinct 6a crux at the top, maybe a 6a move at the bottom too.
with mwatson
Very very good. Really sustained then a distinct 6a crux at the top, maybe a 6a move at the bottom too.
with mwatson
mwatson 9 Dec, 2012 2nd rpt found this really had when i lead it, didn't even get pumped this time
found this really had when i lead it, didn't even get pumped this time
Hidden 4 Nov, 2012 2nd O/S
Hidden 22 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S
Rachel S 14 Aug, 2012 2nd dog
mshorter 20 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
Sardien 25 Jun, 2012 2nd dog Helena did amazing on the lead. I found it very puzzling to read the route - where and how to hold the holds. Amazing moves tho.
with Helena Robinson
Helena did amazing on the lead. I found it very puzzling to read the route - where and how to hold the holds. Amazing moves tho.
with Helena Robinson
Hidden 4 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 May, 2012 2nd rpt
Hidden 6 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 May, 2012 2nd rpt
Si Witcher 5 May, 2012 Lead rpt
CJEFF 21 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
with Thomas Ramsdon
with Thomas Ramsdon
piersg ??, 2012 2nd
Hidden 19 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
Ewan Russell 12 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Nov, 2011 2nd
Andy Hardy 27 Aug, 2011 2nd
Hidden 25 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 25 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
dan ely 21 Aug, 2011 Lead RP
with emily
with emily
mynyddresident 17 Aug, 2011 Lead β Poorish holds for a few moves at the end but gd kit by the quartz crimp then a bit of manouvreing yourself to take the crack the correct way.
with erika
Poorish holds for a few moves at the end but gd kit by the quartz crimp then a bit of manouvreing yourself to take the crack the correct way.
with erika
gforce 7 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Good route but I see this is hard E4 according to the votes. Get a grip! Wouldn't have complained if this was graded E3 5c. Sustained, well protected but never hard and not even that pumpy.
with mavtu
Good route but I see this is hard E4 according to the votes. Get a grip! Wouldn't have complained if this was graded E3 5c. Sustained, well protected but never hard and not even that pumpy.
with mavtu
dan ely 1 Aug, 2011 Lead dog
with pearce
with pearce
Swotson 16 Jul, 2011 2nd dog Great lead by Nic - her first cleanE3 for quite a few years. Couldn't quite figure out the crux move beforerunning out of steam. When I did it I realisedIshouldhave gone with the flow and probaly would have worked
with Nic Basnett
Great lead by Nic - her first cleanE3 for quite a few years. Couldn't quite figure out the crux move beforerunning out of steam. When I did it I realisedIshouldhave gone with the flow and probaly would have worked
with Nic Basnett
dannyboy83 7 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
jacobjlloyd 7 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S No 6a moves on this, just steady pumpy 5c with tons of gear! Quality route.
No 6a moves on this, just steady pumpy 5c with tons of gear! Quality route.
stevebarratt 10 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with Rob Sandercock
with Rob Sandercock
vertically_challenged 7 Jun, 2011 Lead dnf first onsight e4 attempt. wish i had paid more attention to the last sentence in description "follow the pumpy crack". down climbed twice then went for it. got halfway then heavens opened. lowered off ...... ps. loose block is now neatly placed at the bottom of the climb if anybody wants to put it back!
first onsight e4 attempt. wish i had paid more attention to the last sentence in description "follow the pumpy crack". down climbed twice then went for it. got halfway then heavens opened. lowered off ...... ps. loose block is now neatly placed at the bottom of the climb if anybody wants to put it back!
wolf.leeb 31 May, 2011 Lead β nic's gear for the 1st half... put loads of gear in the 2nd half for some mad reason... pump..
nic's gear for the 1st half... put loads of gear in the 2nd half for some mad reason... pump..
mynyddresident 31 May, 2011 Lead dnf Too much time contemplating the tricky bit above the loose block. Handed over the reigns..
with wolf
Too much time contemplating the tricky bit above the loose block. Handed over the reigns..
with wolf
mynyddresident 31 May, 2011 2nd
with wolf
with wolf
lost.arrow 30 May, 2011 -
ksjs 11 May, 2011 2nd rpt Bit tougher when wet - quartz was very greasy.
with Joey
Bit tougher when wet - quartz was very greasy.
with Joey
alpinist63 ?May, 2011 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 27 Apr, 2011 Lead β Soooooooo pumpy but great gear all the way up. A real sting in the tail too.
with Dad
Soooooooo pumpy but great gear all the way up. A real sting in the tail too.
with Dad
Liam FLeming 17 Apr, 2011 Lead
Si Witcher 13 Mar, 2011 2nd rpt
Hidden 1 Mar, 2011 Lead
Hidden ?Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 -
centurion05 ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
mwatson ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Toby Dunn ??, 2011 -
willoates 10 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S never been so pumped!!! could barely squeeze cam towards the end of the crack! a good fight!
with lawrence
never been so pumped!!! could barely squeeze cam towards the end of the crack! a good fight!
with lawrence
david morse 7 Oct, 2010 Lead RP Got spanked on this a couple of weeks ago, went back and managed to control the pump to the top. Best line on the crag maybe? Brilliant route!
with duncan+heather
Got spanked on this a couple of weeks ago, went back and managed to control the pump to the top. Best line on the crag maybe? Brilliant route!
with duncan+heather
Hidden 12 Sep, 2010 Lead dog
Hidden 14 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Aug, 2010 Lead
centurion05 8 Aug, 2010 2nd
London Luke ?Jul, 2010 Lead
Hidden 30 May, 2010 Lead O/S
ellis 15 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Tom Bridgeland
with Tom Bridgeland
Luke Brooks 12 May, 2010 Lead
with John Orr
with John Orr
Adam Booth 8 May, 2010 Lead dnf Climbed back from 1/3rd height. Will try it again when I'm less knackered.
Climbed back from 1/3rd height. Will try it again when I'm less knackered.
JulesV 3 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 3 May, 2010 2nd dog
Rowansb 2 May, 2010 Lead O/S pumpy but no stopper moves
with Sean_J
pumpy but no stopper moves
with Sean_J
datoon 2 May, 2010 Lead dog
with K
with K
ksjs 11 Mar, 2010 Lead rpt Final Solution not Penny. 2nd time on this and really, start and finish aside, its very straightforward at E3. gear at the end is very good so no issues if you do peel off. a more controlled effort to leave the crack this time but still awkward
with owen
Final Solution not Penny. 2nd time on this and really, start and finish aside, its very straightforward at E3. gear at the end is very good so no issues if you do peel off. a more controlled effort to leave the crack this time but still awkward
with owen
Hidden 6 Feb, 2010 Lead
Hidden 6 Feb, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Feb, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 22 Jan, 2010 Lead
Mike Goldthorp 17 Jan, 2010 Lead RP Tried it half a year ago and came off, went quite smoothly this time. not over till its over
Tried it half a year ago and came off, went quite smoothly this time. not over till its over
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Dave Searle 31 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
with gav
with gav
Hidden 17 Oct, 2009 2nd rpt
Hidden 17 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
smallerrich 27 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S Was meant to be an attempt on sai dancing, but got bored of trying to find where this route went and followed the crack to the top. Sai dancing seems a very contrived line...
Was meant to be an attempt on sai dancing, but got bored of trying to find where this route went and followed the crack to the top. Sai dancing seems a very contrived line...
farmus21 27 Sep, 2009 2nd
Glyn 16 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
with Tony Stone
with Tony Stone
Alex Mason 24 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S Think this is actually called final solution. Gnarly, started up sai dancing struggled for gear. then entered the crack and rode a pump all the way to the top.
with Guy VG
Think this is actually called final solution. Gnarly, started up sai dancing struggled for gear. then entered the crack and rode a pump all the way to the top.
with Guy VG
Alex Mason 24 Aug, 2009 Lead β On steves gear, but hung around it for authenticity, great route with a great line. Soft but way too pumpy for an E3 leader?
On steves gear, but hung around it for authenticity, great route with a great line. Soft but way too pumpy for an E3 leader?
Ram MkiV 24 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with Al
with Al
will9911 22 Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
MikePycroft 18 Aug, 2009 Lead dog Dogged the last move
Dogged the last move
Rob Pitt 13 Aug, 2009 Lead rpt
with ksjs
with ksjs
Toby Dunn 13 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
ksjs 13 Aug, 2009 2nd rpt
with rob
with rob
Ed Booth 1 Aug, 2009 2nd felt alot steadier this time round. But i was seconding. good effort will doing it straight off.
with will sim
felt alot steadier this time round. But i was seconding. good effort will doing it straight off.
with will sim
mux 1 Aug, 2009 Lead after a spanking on it earlier in the year I got back on it. It still hurt, but went better this time.
with Barry
after a spanking on it earlier in the year I got back on it. It still hurt, but went better this time.
with Barry
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 2009 2nd O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
mattyork2 7 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Adam Hodgson and Emma Twyford
with Adam Hodgson and Emma Twyford
C Mclean ?Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Ben Macnally
with Ben Macnally
Toby Dunn 2 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with Joe Bawden
with Joe Bawden
ksjs 11 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S correct name = Final Solution (right to left diagonal crack parallel and right of Penny [previously Katana]). very good with good gear throughout. think the 2nd peg on Sai Dancing has snapped but still easy to protect. exciting the crack is harder than you might like - save some juice...
correct name = Final Solution (right to left diagonal crack parallel and right of Penny [previously Katana]). very good with good gear throughout. think the 2nd peg on Sai Dancing has snapped but still easy to protect. exciting the crack is harder than you might like - save some juice...
Hidden 5 Apr, 2009 Lead rpt
Luke Brooks 1 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Tom Eagle
with Tom Eagle
barni 23 Jan, 2009 Lead dog
with Shoulders
with Shoulders
Andrew Nelson ??, 2009 -
with paul Chiddle
with paul Chiddle
Kev Little ??, 2009 Lead O/S
barni 14 Dec, 2008 Lead dog
with Sam
with Sam
mattyork2 15 Nov, 2008 Lead O/S Hmmmm. Relieved to pull into 'King Bee Crack.' Techincal, sustained climbing between inventive poor rests proved to be the order of the day. Another 'on-off' moment experienced on this route when moving into the upper crux- scary! The start seemed protectable but on bounce test the 'baby bouncer' setup all ripped out with a hail of high velocity metal work. Pumpy!
with Pete Harrison
Hmmmm. Relieved to pull into 'King Bee Crack.' Techincal, sustained climbing between inventive poor rests proved to be the order of the day. Another 'on-off' moment experienced on this route when moving into the upper crux- scary! The start seemed protectable but on bounce test the 'baby bouncer' setup all ripped out with a hail of high velocity metal work. Pumpy!
with Pete Harrison
lukea 8 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
with Al
with Al
Dave Rumney 28 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Tanya Milner
with Tanya Milner
richgac 2 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S Soft
with Tom K
Soft
with Tom K
feilx 2 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
with Phil Davis
with Phil Davis
dan gibson 18 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
with sam read
with sam read
Hidden ?Jul, 2008 TR O/S
Hidden 4 Jun, 2008 Lead
centurion05 13 May, 2008 TR O/S
Docent 10 Feb, 2008 Lead O/S
with sari
with sari
dctarrant2000 25 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
with Polly Tarrant
with Polly Tarrant
barni 2 Sep, 2007 Lead dog
with Guy
with Guy
ksjs 25 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S good, relatively sustained climbing with only 1 trickier section. physical if you havent got stamina but good gear throughout. soft E4.
good, relatively sustained climbing with only 1 trickier section. physical if you havent got stamina but good gear throughout. soft E4.
nige 24 Jul, 2007 Lead
with mark hounslea
with mark hounslea
Hidden 8 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
KKilroy ??, 2007 2nd O/S
with Luke
with Luke
a_radiohead_fan ?Oct, 2006 -
IOAN D 4 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
with rick
with rick
Sut 2 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 18 May, 2006 Lead G/U
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
Chris Reid 28 May, 2005 Lead O/S
pete johnson 24 Jul, 2004 Lead O/S
with Lun
with Lun
ali_robb ?Jul, 2004 Lead O/S
pauldrew ??, 2004 2nd
rayles 24 Mar, 2003 Lead β Completed the top after, Si and Tom couldn't top out
with Si
Completed the top after, Si and Tom couldn't top out
with Si
Hidden ?Jun, 2002 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2002 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 May, 2001 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 Apr, 2001 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??, 2001 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??, 2001 Lead O/S
sadams 30 May, 2000 Lead O/S
with Tom Briggs
with Tom Briggs
nige ?Mar, 2000 2nd
with mark hounslea
with mark hounslea
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead dog
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 May, 1999 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 May, 1999 Lead β
Hidden ?Jun, 1998 2nd
pete johnson 28 Sep, 1997 Lead
with Dave Wills
with Dave Wills
michael burrows 16 Mar, 1997 Lead dog
with sandy dobie
with sandy dobie
Hidden ??, 1997 Lead dog
pete johnson 19 May, 1996 Lead
with Lun
with Lun
Hidden ??, 1995 Lead
jfletcher 16 Apr, 1994 Lead O/S
with Nick Wharton
with Nick Wharton
Mick King 10 Oct, 1993 Lead O/S
with Karl Lunt
with Karl Lunt
Stoney Boy 21 Apr, 1993 Lead O/S
with Bob Marks, accynez
with Bob Marks, accynez
Nick Biven 13 Sep, 1992 2nd
with Rich Whitwell
with Rich Whitwell
Mark Kemball 13 Aug, 1992 Lead
with Alison Dorey
with Alison Dorey
Hidden ??, 1992 Lead O/S
wynaptomos ?May, 1990 Lead O/S
mik1miller ??, 1990 Lead O/S
GuyM ??, 1985 -
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 37
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 43
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set