Climbs 137
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 220m a.s.l
Faces all

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It goes where?! Sophie looking out the "giant roof crack" on Black and Tan, Holyhead. © neil the weak

Crag features

A very different experience from the Gogarth sea cliffs, but the Holyhead Mountain crags provide some good, albeit short, routes of all grades on variable quality rock. Some parts of the crags covered with grey lichen, which can make the rock slimy when damp. However, the rocks still dry out reasonably quick on a windy day.

Mixture of slabby buttresses and steep walls, mostly on solid and clean quartzite, up to 40m. Good for a relaxed day or mileage, or just some short but quality extremes or lower grade stuff. The harder routes should not be unerestimated though. Some of the best short pitches in North Wales too, I kid you not.

Approach notes

Park at South Stack and follow the Upper Tier approach until the path divides, just before dropping down towards Gogarth Bay. The crags are easily seen from here. 

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth North (2009)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Gogarth (1990)
ANGLESEY pre-1974 County Top
David Carpenter - 02/Sep/13
A nice little crag. The slabs routes were pleasant two pich routes for the novice. 'Stairs' route is a mini classic and a must do at easy svere.
Marcus Tierney - 20/Jul/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Holyhead Mountain Summit
2 Holyhead Mountain summit
-
summit 99
  Ramp A
4 Corkscrew VS 5a 30
5 Thumbscrew VS 5a 22
  Ramp B
7 Vegetable Garden
-
VD 77
8 M Wall HVS 5b 22
9 M...M...Mother
-
E4 6a  
10 Candlestick HS 4b ** 509
11 Puffin Shuffle HVS 5c 14
12 Romulus VS 5a * 248
13 Remus HS 4b 202
  Ramp C
15 Wally's Folly VD * 321
16 Pigeon Hole Crack S 4a * 655
17 Primrose Hill VD 151
18 The Wandering Primrose S 4a * 680
19 The Wandering Primrose Variation VS 4b 43
20 Primrose Hill Gutter
-
M 85
21 Goin' Down Slow
-
S 4a 27
22 Aint going down HS 4b 9
23 P.C.H. E1 5b 24
24 Breakaway E2 5c * 17
  Ramp D
26 Stairs S 4a * 628
27 Stairs Direct
-
VS 5a 65
28 Teenage Kicks S 4a * 398
29 The Grip VS 4c * 148
30 Spreadeagle Crack
-
HVS 5a 10
31 The Three Amigos
-
E5 6b *  
  Ramp E
33 Broken Corner S 13
34 Curtains
-
VS 4c 194
35 Plimsole D * 268
36 Nuts
-
HVS 5a 17
37 Grendel E2 5c * 59
38 Cursing VS 4c ** 451
39 Cursing Direct Start HVS 5a 29
40 Skinned Up E4 6b * 13
41 Little Women
-
HVS 5a 47
42 Teaser VS 4c * 841
43 Step On The Wildside
-
HVS 4c 39
44 Laceration
-
VS 5a 244
45 Birthday Passage VS 4c * 468
46 Pleasant Surprise HS 4b * 718
47 A Seagull Called my Name
-
HS 4b 161
48 New Boots and Panties S 4a * 824
49 Rhiannon
-
HS 4b 88
50 Old Boots and Cut-Offs
-
HS 4b 94
Climb name Grade
51 Mrs Murdock
-
S 4a 338
  Ramp F
53 Mental Block
-
VS 5a 44
54 Oh Man, I Gotta Have a Wildebeast
-
E1 4c 59
55 Duffel
-
HS 4b 109
56 C'est La Vie
-
HVS 5b 45
57 The Abbey VS 4c 28
58 The Abbey Direct Finish
-
HVS 5b 3
59 The Sump D * 215
60 Sump Direct HS 4b * 305
61 The Elephant's Arse
-
S 4b * 309
62 Kit Kat VS 4c ** 8
63 Minime
-
E2 5b 1
64 Pisa
-
E1 5b 5
65 The Crack VD 30
  Yellow Wall
67 The Raver
-
S 33
68 Bloody Fingers HS 4b 20
69 A Seagull Ate My Crisps
-
E4 6b *  
70 Thread
-
S 4a 109
71 Wind E1 5b 39
72 Uhuru
-
VS 4c 77
73 Uhuru (Direct Start) E1 5c * 34
74 Jones' Crack
-
VD 19
75 Bran Flake E2 5b ** 430
76 Shreddies
-
E2 5c 13
77 Croissant
-
E3 6b 7
78 Mirrored in the Cleft
-
E4 6b *  
79 Big Jim E3 6b * 38
80 King Bee Crack HVS 5a *** 1194
81 Snakebite Wall
-
E4 6a * 44
82 Trouser Snake
-
E4 6a 4
83 Penny (Katana) E4 6a ** 280
84 Sai Dancing
-
E3 6a ** 93
85 Final Solution E3 5c ** 149
86 Trhern Arete
-
E5 6a * 1
87 Twilight Zone
-
E4 6b  
88 The Electric Spanking of War Babies
-
E3 5c * 1
89 The Electric Lady Charlotte
-
E3 5c  
90 Patience VS 4c * 31
91 A Slow Brew
-
E3 6a  
92 Drying Out
-
E3 6a  
  Quartz Wall
94 The Unblue Crack
-
E1 5b 29
95 Andover VS 5a * 208
96 The Arrow
-
E3 5c 2
97 See Emily Play
-
HVS 5a * 95
98 Tension VS 4b ** 1238
99 Black and Tan VS 4c ** 1009
100 Point Taken
-
E2 5c * 21
Climb name Grade
101 Breaking the Barrier E1 5b *** 1183
102 The Echoes E3 6a * 59
103 Sisters Crack
-
E2 5b 26
104 Relief E2 5c 33
105 Bruvers HVS 5a ** 987
106 Apostrophe
-
HVS 5a 30
107 Apostrophe (Direct Finish)
-
E2 6a 2
108 Contestant
-
VD 110
109 Dreaming of Home
-
E3 5c  
110 Blackfoot
-
HS 4b 37
111 Blackfoot Variation VS 4c * 4
112 Time to Reflect
-
E1 5c 24
113 Tempest S 4a * 447
114 Scissorhands E1 5b 14
115 Momser S 4a 22
116 Tinseltown Rebelion
-
E2 5c  
  Central Slab
118 Black Owen
-
VD * 207
119 Slab Direct
-
VD * 321
120 Lost Hope
-
HS 4b * 201
121 Route 66
-
D 63
122 Slippers
-
VD 498
123 D'Elephant
-
VD * 828
124 Snowfall VD 209
125 Rock and Ice
-
HS 4a 302
126 Comfortably Numb
-
VS 4c 169
127 The Mad Scientist HS 4b 40
128 Albany Lodge E1 5b 36
  Sub Slab
130 Delicate D 78
131 Get off my Case VD * 38
132 Hat
-
VD 599
  The Pillar
134 Hammer S 4a 78
135 Gelli
-
VS 4b 50
136 Suprise E1 5b 46
137 The 5 Pound Curry Debacle VD * 4
138 Hot Lips E5 6b * 2
139 Deepest Condolences E3 6a 4
140 And Over to Tension VS 4c * 2
141 Bunnet VD * 4
142 The Right Hand Finish VD 2
143 Candle stick
-
M 2
144 BS E3 5c 6
145 Branflake
-
E2 5b ** 10
146 Surprise
-
E1 5b 2
147 Guttersweep * VD 3
148 Old Speckled Puffin * S 4a *  
149 New Years Envy * E6 6b * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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