Climbs 135
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 220m a.s.l
Faces SW

It goes where?! Sophie looking out the "giant roof crack" on Black and Tan, Holyhead. © neil the weak

Crag features

A very different experience from the Gogarth sea cliffs, but the Holyhead Mountain crags provide some good, albeit short, routes of all grades on variable quality rock. Some parts of the crags covered with grey lichen, which can make the rock slimy when damp. However, the rocks still dry out reasonably quick on a windy day.

Mainly single-pitch routes to 40 metres.

Mixture of slabby buttresses and steep walls, mostly on solid and clean quartzite, up to 130 ft. Good for a relaxed day or mileage, or just some short but quality extremes or lower grade stuff. The harder routes should not be unerestimated though. Some of the best short pitches in North Wales too, I kid you not.

Approach notes

Park at South Stack; follow the Upper Tier approach until the path divides, just before dropping down towards Gogarth Bay. The crags are easily seen from here. No access issues.

ksjs comments: somebody needs to swap / amend names for Final Solution, Penny and Katana to reflect correct route names (see Gogarth North, Groundup). theres also some climbs missing: Big Jim and Croissant for example.

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North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth North (2009)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Gogarth (1990)
ANGLESEY pre-1974 County Top
David Carpenter - 02/Sep/13
A nice little crag. The slabs routes were pleasant two pich routes for the novice. 'Stairs' route is a mini classic and a must do at easy svere.
Marcus Tierney - 20/Jul/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Ramp A 
2Holyhead Mountain summit
summit 57
3CorkscrewVS 5a 27
4ThumbscrewVS 5a 19
 Ramp B 
6Vegetable Garden
VD 64
7M WallHVS 5b 20
E4 6a  
9CandlestickHS 4b **352
10Puffin ShuffleHVS 5c 9
11RomulusVS 5a *165
12RemusHS 4b 136
 Ramp C 
14Wally's FollyVD *224
15Pigeon Hole CrackS 4a *451
16Primrose HillVD 112
17The Wandering PrimroseS 4a *466
18The Wandering Primrose VariationVS 4b 28
19Primrose Hill Gutter
M 68
20Goin' Down Slow
S 4a 26
21Aint going downHS 4b 8
22P.C.H.E1 5b 16
23BreakawayE2 5c *8
 Ramp D 
25StairsS 4a *416
26Stairs Direct
VS 5a 49
27Teenage KicksS 4a *236
28The GripVS 4c *83
29Spreadeagle Crack
HVS 5a 9
30The Three Amigos
E5 6b * 
 Ramp E 
32Broken CornerS 11
VS 4c 176
34PlimsoleD *196
HVS 5a 15
36GrendelE2 5c *47
37CursingVS 4c **321
38Cursing Direct StartHVS 5a 22
39Skinned UpE4 6b *11
40Little Women
HVS 5a 34
41TeaserVS 4c *637
42Step On The Wildside
HVS 4c 33
VS 5a 225
44Birthday PassageVS 4c *306
45Pleasant SurpriseHS 4b *488
46A Seagull Called my Name
HS 4b 117
47New Boots and PantiesS 4a *611
HS 4b 78
49Old Boots and Cut-Offs
HS 4b 77
50Mrs Murdock
S 4a 297
 Ramp F 
52Mental Block
VS 5a 34
53Oh Man, I Gotta Have a Wildebeast
E1 4c 52
HS 4b 93
55C'est La Vie
HVS 5b 40
56The AbbeyVS 4c 22
57The Abbey Direct Finish
HVS 5b 3
58The SumpD *157
59Sump DirectHS 4b *233
60The Elephant's Arse
S 4b *254
61Kit KatVS 4c **5
E2 5b  
E1 5b 5
64The CrackVD 15
 Yellow Wall 
66The Raver
S 27
67Bloody FingersHS 4b 20
68A Seagull Ate My Crisps
E4 6b * 
S 4a 96
70WindE1 5b 29
VS 4c 71
72Uhuru (Direct Start)E1 5c *19
73Jones' Crack
VD 15
74Bran FlakeE2 5b **329
E2 5c 9
E3 6b 6
77Mirrored in the Cleft
E4 6b * 
78Big JimE3 6b *30
79King Bee CrackHVS 5a ***969
80Snakebite Wall
E4 6a *39
81Trouser Snake
E4 6a 2
82Penny (Katana)E4 6a **232
83Sai Dancing
E3 6a **94
84Final SolutionE3 5c **96
85Trhern Arete
E5 6a *1
86Twilight Zone
E4 6b  
87The Electric Spanking of War Babies
E3 5c *1
88The Electric Lady Charlotte
E3 5c  
89PatienceVS 4c *17
90A Slow Brew
E3 6a  
91Drying Out
E3 6a  
 Quartz Wall 
93The Unblue Crack
E1 5b 25
94AndoverVS 5a *154
95The Arrow
E3 5c 2
96See Emily Play
HVS 5a *77
97TensionVS 4b **1010
98Black and TanVS 4c **808
99Point Taken
E2 5c *11
100Breaking the BarrierE1 5b ***964
101The EchoesE3 6a *42
102Sisters Crack
E2 5b 17
103ReliefE2 5c 24
104BruversHVS 5a **787
HVS 5a 25
106Apostrophe (Direct Finish)
E2 6a 1
VD 84
108Dreaming of Home
E3 5c  
HS 4b 26
110Blackfoot VariationVS 4c *2
111Time to Reflect
E1 5c 19
112TempestS 4a *345
113ScissorhandsE1 5b 12
114MomserS 4a 17
115Tinseltown Rebelion
E2 5c  
 Central Slab 
117Black Owen
VD *171
118Slab Direct
VD *270
119Lost Hope
HS 4b *152
120Route 66
D 49
VD 387
VD *622
123SnowfallVD 150
124Rock and Ice
HS 4a 238
125Comfortably Numb
VS 4c 136
126The Mad ScientistHS 4b 33
127Albany LodgeE1 5b 29
 Sub Slab 
129DelicateD 51
130Get off my CaseVD *30
VD 473
 The Pillar 
133HammerS 4a 71
VS 4b 44
135SupriseE1 5b 42
136The 5 Pound Curry DebacleVD *4
137Hot LipsE5 6b *1
138Deepest CondolencesE3 6a 4
139And Over to TensionVS 4c *2
140BunnetVD *3
141The Right Hand FinishVD 1
142Candle stick
M 2
143BSE3 5c 6
E2 5b **5
E1 5b 1
146Guttersweep *VD 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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