Climbs 135
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 220m a.s.l
Faces SW

It goes where?! Sophie looking out the "giant roof crack" on Black and Tan, Holyhead. © neil the weak

Crag features

A very different experience from the Gogarth sea cliffs, but the Holyhead Mountain crags provide some good, albeit short, routes of all grades on variable quality rock. Some parts of the crags covered with grey lichen, which can make the rock slimy when damp. However, the rocks still dry out reasonably quick on a windy day.

Mainly single-pitch routes to 40 metres.

Mixture of slabby buttresses and steep walls, mostly on solid and clean quartzite, up to 130 ft. Good for a relaxed day or mileage, or just some short but quality extremes or lower grade stuff. The harder routes should not be unerestimated though. Some of the best short pitches in North Wales too, I kid you not.

Approach notes

Park at South Stack; follow the Upper Tier approach until the path divides, just before dropping down towards Gogarth Bay. The crags are easily seen from here. No access issues.

ksjs comments: somebody needs to swap / amend names for Final Solution, Penny and Katana to reflect correct route names (see Gogarth North, Groundup). theres also some climbs missing: Big Jim and Croissant for example.

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth North (2009)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Gogarth (1990)
ANGLESEY pre-1974 County Top
David Carpenter - 02/Sep/13
A nice little crag. The slabs routes were pleasant two pich routes for the novice. 'Stairs' route is a mini classic and a must do at easy svere.
Marcus Tierney - 20/Jul/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Ramp A
2 Holyhead Mountain summit
-
summit 70
3 Corkscrew VS 5a 27
4 Thumbscrew VS 5a 19
  Ramp B
6 Vegetable Garden
-
VD 67
7 M Wall HVS 5b 20
8 M...M...Mother
-
E4 6a  
9 Candlestick HS 4b ** 410
10 Puffin Shuffle HVS 5c 10
11 Romulus VS 5a * 199
12 Remus HS 4b 156
  Ramp C
14 Wally's Folly VD * 263
15 Pigeon Hole Crack S 4a * 526
16 Primrose Hill VD 128
17 The Wandering Primrose S 4a * 537
18 The Wandering Primrose Variation VS 4b 29
19 Primrose Hill Gutter
-
M 75
20 Goin' Down Slow
-
S 4a 27
21 Aint going down HS 4b 8
22 P.C.H. E1 5b 19
23 Breakaway E2 5c * 11
  Ramp D
25 Stairs S 4a * 502
26 Stairs Direct
-
VS 5a 55
27 Teenage Kicks S 4a * 299
28 The Grip VS 4c * 112
29 Spreadeagle Crack
-
HVS 5a 12
30 The Three Amigos
-
E5 6b *  
  Ramp E
32 Broken Corner S 11
33 Curtains
-
VS 4c 185
34 Plimsole D * 224
35 Nuts
-
HVS 5a 17
36 Grendel E2 5c * 59
37 Cursing VS 4c ** 379
38 Cursing Direct Start HVS 5a 25
39 Skinned Up E4 6b * 11
40 Little Women
-
HVS 5a 42
41 Teaser VS 4c * 712
42 Step On The Wildside
-
HVS 4c 33
43 Laceration
-
VS 5a 229
44 Birthday Passage VS 4c * 364
45 Pleasant Surprise HS 4b * 580
46 A Seagull Called my Name
-
HS 4b 131
47 New Boots and Panties S 4a * 697
48 Rhiannon
-
HS 4b 82
49 Old Boots and Cut-Offs
-
HS 4b 82
50 Mrs Murdock
-
S 4a 312
  Ramp F
52 Mental Block
-
VS 5a 35
53 Oh Man, I Gotta Have a Wildebeast
-
E1 4c 55
54 Duffel
-
HS 4b 97
55 C'est La Vie
-
HVS 5b 42
56 The Abbey VS 4c 25
57 The Abbey Direct Finish
-
HVS 5b 3
58 The Sump D * 191
59 Sump Direct HS 4b * 263
60 The Elephant's Arse
-
S 4b * 288
61 Kit Kat VS 4c ** 11
62 Minime
-
E2 5b  
63 Pisa
-
E1 5b 5
64 The Crack VD 22
  Yellow Wall
66 The Raver
-
S 31
67 Bloody Fingers HS 4b 20
68 A Seagull Ate My Crisps
-
E4 6b *  
69 Thread
-
S 4a 100
70 Wind E1 5b 31
71 Uhuru
-
VS 4c 75
72 Uhuru (Direct Start) E1 5c * 30
73 Jones' Crack
-
VD 15
74 Bran Flake E2 5b ** 385
75 Shreddies
-
E2 5c 10
76 Croissant
-
E3 6b 7
77 Mirrored in the Cleft
-
E4 6b *  
78 Big Jim E3 6b * 39
79 King Bee Crack HVS 5a *** 1081
80 Snakebite Wall
-
E4 6a * 39
81 Trouser Snake
-
E4 6a 2
82 Penny (Katana) E4 6a ** 264
83 Sai Dancing
-
E3 6a ** 86
84 Final Solution E3 5c ** 120
85 Trhern Arete
-
E5 6a * 1
86 Twilight Zone
-
E4 6b  
87 The Electric Spanking of War Babies
-
E3 5c * 1
88 The Electric Lady Charlotte
-
E3 5c  
89 Patience VS 4c * 26
90 A Slow Brew
-
E3 6a  
91 Drying Out
-
E3 6a  
  Quartz Wall
93 The Unblue Crack
-
E1 5b 26
94 Andover VS 5a * 174
95 The Arrow
-
E3 5c 2
96 See Emily Play
-
HVS 5a * 87
97 Tension VS 4b ** 1112
98 Black and Tan VS 4c ** 903
99 Point Taken
-
E2 5c * 13
100 Breaking the Barrier E1 5b *** 1082
101 The Echoes E3 6a * 54
102 Sisters Crack
-
E2 5b 24
103 Relief E2 5c 28
104 Bruvers HVS 5a ** 872
105 Apostrophe
-
HVS 5a 25
106 Apostrophe (Direct Finish)
-
E2 6a 1
107 Contestant
-
VD 94
108 Dreaming of Home
-
E3 5c  
109 Blackfoot
-
HS 4b 27
110 Blackfoot Variation VS 4c * 2
111 Time to Reflect
-
E1 5c 25
112 Tempest S 4a * 381
113 Scissorhands E1 5b 13
114 Momser S 4a 19
115 Tinseltown Rebelion
-
E2 5c  
  Central Slab
117 Black Owen
-
VD * 184
118 Slab Direct
-
VD * 291
119 Lost Hope
-
HS 4b * 167
120 Route 66
-
D 51
121 Slippers
-
VD 421
122 D'Elephant
-
VD * 695
123 Snowfall VD 173
124 Rock and Ice
-
HS 4a 267
125 Comfortably Numb
-
VS 4c 153
126 The Mad Scientist HS 4b 38
127 Albany Lodge E1 5b 34
  Sub Slab
129 Delicate D 66
130 Get off my Case VD * 33
131 Hat
-
VD 524
  The Pillar
133 Hammer S 4a 74
134 Gelli
-
VS 4b 45
135 Suprise E1 5b 42
136 The 5 Pound Curry Debacle VD * 3
137 Hot Lips E5 6b * 2
138 Deepest Condolences E3 6a 4
139 And Over to Tension VS 4c * 2
140 Bunnet VD * 5
141 The Right Hand Finish VD 2
142 Candle stick
-
M 2
143 BS E3 5c 6
144 Branflake
-
E2 5b ** 8
145 Surprise
-
E1 5b 1
146 Guttersweep * VD 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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