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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 140
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 220m a.s.l
Faces all

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It goes where?! Sophie looking out the "giant roof crack" on Black and Tan, Holyhead. © neil the weak

Crag features

A very different experience from the Gogarth sea cliffs, but the Holyhead Mountain crags provide some good, albeit short, routes of all grades on variable quality rock. Some parts of the crags covered with grey lichen, which can make the rock slimy when damp. However, the rocks still dry out reasonably quick on a windy day.

Mixture of slabby buttresses and steep walls, mostly on solid and clean quartzite, up to 40m. Good for a relaxed day or mileage, or just some short but quality extremes or lower grade stuff. The harder routes should not be unerestimated though. Some of the best short pitches in North Wales too, I kid you not.

Approach notes

Park at South Stack and follow the Upper Tier approach until the path divides, just before dropping down towards Gogarth Bay. The crags are easily seen from here. 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth North (2009)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Gogarth (1990)
ANGLESEY pre-1974 County Top
David Carpenter - 02/Sep/13
A nice little crag. The slabs routes were pleasant two pich routes for the novice. 'Stairs' route is a mini classic and a must do at easy svere.
Marcus Tierney - 20/Jul/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Holyhead Mountain Summit
2 Holyhead Mountain summit
-
summit 106
  Ramp A
4 Corkscrew VS 5a 33
5 Thumbscrew VS 5a 24
  Ramp B
7 Vegetable Garden
-
VD 79
8 M Wall HVS 5b 24
9 M...M...Mother
-
E4 6a  
10 Candlestick HS 4b ** 555
11 Puffin Shuffle HVS 5c 14
12 Romulus VS 5a * 270
13 Remus HS 4b 220
  Ramp C
15 Wally's Folly VD * 353
16 Pigeon Hole Crack S 4a * 743
17 Primrose Hill VD 162
18 The Wandering Primrose S 4a * 760
19 The Wandering Primrose Variation VS 4b 44
20 Primrose Hill Gutter
-
M 89
21 Goin' Down Slow
-
S 4a 29
22 Aint going down HS 4b 9
23 P.C.H. E1 5b 24
24 Breakaway E2 5c * 17
  Ramp D
26 Stairs S 4a * 685
27 Stairs Direct
-
VS 5a 64
28 Teenage Kicks S 4a * 432
29 The Grip VS 4c * 161
30 Spreadeagle Crack
-
HVS 5a 10
31 The Three Amigos
-
E5 6b *  
  Ramp E
33 Broken Corner S 14
34 Curtains
-
VS 4c 200
35 Plimsole D * 297
36 Nuts
-
HVS 5a 19
37 Grendel E2 5c * 59
38 Cursing VS 4c ** 498
39 Cursing Direct Start HVS 5a 29
40 Skinned Up E4 6b * 13
41 Little Women
-
HVS 5a 48
42 Teaser VS 4c * 901
43 Step On The Wildside
-
HVS 4c 41
44 Laceration
-
VS 5a 246
45 Birthday Passage VS 4c * 517
46 Pleasant Surprise HS 4b * 773
47 A Seagull Called my Name
-
HS 4b 163
48 New Boots and Panties S 4a * 885
49 Rhiannon
-
HS 4b 96
50 Old Boots and Cut-Offs
-
HS 4b 106
51 Mrs Murdock
-
S 4a 351
Climb name Grade
  Ramp F
53 Mental Block
-
VS 5a 51
54 Oh Man, I Gotta Have a Wildebeast
-
E1 4c 59
55 Duffel
-
HS 4b 109
56 C'est La Vie
-
HVS 5b 46
57 The Abbey VS 4c 30
58 The Abbey Direct Finish
-
HVS 5b 4
59 The Sump D * 236
60 Sump Direct HS 4b * 320
61 The Elephant's Arse
-
S 4b * 327
62 Kit Kat VS 4c ** 9
63 Minime
-
E2 5b 1
64 Pisa
-
E1 5b 5
65 The Crack VD 30
  Yellow Wall
67 The Raver
-
S 33
68 Bloody Fingers HS 4b 20
69 A Seagull Ate My Crisps
-
E4 6b *  
70 Thread
-
S 4a 110
71 Wind E1 5b 39
72 Uhuru
-
VS 4c 82
73 Uhuru (Direct Start) E1 5c * 37
74 Jones' Crack
-
VD 20
75 Bran Flake E2 5b ** 467
76 Shreddies
-
E2 5c 13
77 Croissant
-
E3 6b 7
78 Mirrored in the Cleft
-
E4 6b *  
79 Big Jim E3 6b * 39
80 King Bee Crack HVS 5a *** 1272
81 Snakebite Wall
-
E4 6a * 45
82 Trouser Snake
-
E4 6a 4
83 Penny (Katana) E4 6a ** 286
84 Sai Dancing
-
E3 6a ** 95
85 Final Solution E3 5c ** 171
86 Trhern Arete
-
E5 6a * 1
87 Twilight Zone
-
E4 6b  
88 The Electric Spanking of War Babies
-
E3 5c * 2
89 The Electric Lady Charlotte
-
E3 5c  
90 Patience VS 4c * 32
91 A Slow Brew
-
E3 6a  
92 Drying Out
-
E3 6a  
  Quartz Wall
94 The Unblue Crack
-
E1 5b 31
95 Andover VS 5a * 219
96 The Arrow
-
E3 5c 2
97 See Emily Play
-
HVS 5a * 98
98 Tension VS 4b ** 1311
99 Black and Tan VS 4c ** 1068
100 Point Taken
-
E2 5c * 22
101 Breaking the Barrier E1 5b *** 1250
102 The Echoes E3 6a * 63
Climb name Grade
103 Sisters Crack
-
E2 5b 27
104 Relief E2 5c 33
105 Bruvers HVS 5a ** 1036
106 Apostrophe
-
HVS 5a 30
107 Apostrophe (Direct Finish)
-
E2 6a 2
108 Contestant
-
VD 113
109 Dreaming of Home
-
E3 5c  
110 Blackfoot
-
HS 4b 38
111 Blackfoot Variation VS 4c * 4
112 Time to Reflect
-
E1 5c 24
113 Tempest S 4a * 470
114 Scissorhands E1 5b 14
115 Momser S 4a 23
116 Tinseltown Rebelion
-
E2 5c  
  Central Slab
118 Black Owen
-
VD * 218
119 Slab Direct
-
VD * 340
120 Lost Hope
-
HS 4b * 208
121 Route 66
-
D 70
122 Slippers
-
VD 525
123 D'Elephant
-
VD * 882
124 Snowfall VD 222
125 Rock and Ice
-
HS 4a 316
126 Comfortably Numb
-
VS 4c 180
127 The Mad Scientist HS 4b 41
128 Albany Lodge E1 5b 36
129 Avoidance * HVS 5a * 1
130 Don't talk to me about Wen * E2 5b * 1
  Sub Slab
132 Delicate D 84
133 Get off my Case VD * 48
134 Hat
-
VD 632
135 The Braggart * HS 4c 3
  The Pillar
137 Hammer S 4a 81
138 Gelli
-
VS 4b 54
139 Suprise E1 5b 48
140 The 5 Pound Curry Debacle VD * 5
141 Hot Lips E5 6b * 2
142 Deepest Condolences E3 6a 5
143 And Over to Tension VS 4c * 3
144 Bunnet VD * 6
145 The Right Hand Finish VD 3
146 Candle stick
-
M 2
147 BS E3 5c 6
148 Branflake
-
E2 5b ** 10
149 Surprise
-
E1 5b 3
150 Guttersweep * VD 3
151 Old Speckled Puffin * S 4a *  
152 New Years Envy * E6 6b * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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