Rockfax Description
Start near the top of the scree cone, just right of the Vonbank tunnel at the base of a rightwards trending crack.
1) IV, 40m. Climb the crack above to reach the top of a small detached pillar. Pull through a bulge to reach a small terrace and a ring belay.
2) IV-, 20m. Take the right-hand of two parallel cracks to a stance below a deep cave.
3) IV-, 30m. Exit left from the cave then climb direct to gain a corner. At the corner's end traverse right to climb an enjoyable slab just right of the main crack-line. Belay below and at the right-hand side of a yellow roof.
4) III, 40m. Move right from under the roof then climb another slab to the right of the crack-line direct. Continue more easily right to reach a large ledge. Here variants Alta and Bassa meet.
5) III+, 30m. Climb direct up the slabs above to a thread belay to the left and below the yellow face. This pitch is shared with Alta.
6) IV-, 20m. Follow a chimney gully to the left to a stance by a flake.
7) IV-, 20m. Continue left then move more easily back right to belay below the right-hand edge of a yellow roof.
8) I, 25m. Move right from under the overhang then follow a grassy ledge back left to a stance in a yellow niche.
9) III, 40m. Exit left from the niche and follow a ramp easily to a good spike belay on a scree-covered shoulder. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
It's also worth mentioning this route has multiple belay stances at almost every pitch seperated by a couple of meters. Therefore an option for larger groups.

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Dolomites Trip

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
bonebag 18 Sep, 2018 2nd A nine pitch route done with Jamie and Jane. Jamie lead all nine pitches with Jane and me sharing the belays roughly equally. Time out was 6h 10mins and time on the route was 4h 30mins of excellent climbing. Left the Lagazuoi car park at 09.15h and started the climb at 10.00h. Reached the top of the climb at 14.30h and left the top of the climb at 14.45h after racking gear and coiling ropes. Back at Lagazuoi car park at 15.25h. Weather was a sunny start with warm sunshine with cloud cover quickly increasing during the morning. Cloud base lowering onto the tops and then lifting again. A heavy hail shower on the descent back to the Lagazuoi cable car station car park. Birds seen were Alpine Chough, Crag Martin, Alpine Accentor and a Wall Creeper. The Wall Creeper seen really well and close up by myself and Jane. Crag Martins landing on the ropes. Great views across all the Dolomites too. A great day out with Jamie and Jane with Jamie leading all pitches and Jane good company on the route.
with Jane, Jamie
A nine pitch route done with Jamie and Jane. Jamie lead all nine pitches with Jane and me sharing the belays roughly equally. Time out was 6h 10mins and time on the route was 4h 30mins of excellent climbing. Left the Lagazuoi car park at 09.15h and started the climb at 10.00h. Reached the top of the climb at 14.30h and left the top of the climb at 14.45h after racking gear and coiling ropes. Back at Lagazuoi car park at 15.25h. Weather was a sunny start with warm sunshine with cloud cover quickly increasing during the morning. Cloud base lowering onto the tops and then lifting again. A heavy hail shower on the descent back to the Lagazuoi cable car station car park. Birds seen were Alpine Chough, Crag Martin, Alpine Accentor and a Wall Creeper. The Wall Creeper seen really well and close up by myself and Jane. Crag Martins landing on the ropes. Great views across all the Dolomites too. A great day out with Jamie and Jane with Jamie leading all pitches and Jane good company on the route.
with Jane, Jamie
JMW665 11 Sep, 2018 2nd First multi-pitch, only completed 2 pitches before abseiling down due to time constraints. Amazing views.
with Mxt600
First multi-pitch, only completed 2 pitches before abseiling down due to time constraints. Amazing views.
with Mxt600
Hidden 11 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
Mxt600 11 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S First multi pitch climb, only had time to do two pitches before we had to abseil down due to time constraints.
with Jenna
First multi pitch climb, only had time to do two pitches before we had to abseil down due to time constraints.
with Jenna
lizzyjones.uk 5 Sep, 2018 2nd
with ZoeP
with ZoeP
ladislav 15 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Got off-route due to an incorrect pitch length given in the Rockfax guidebook, and finished up a (harder) gully lower down from the correct one.
with Andy
Got off-route due to an incorrect pitch length given in the Rockfax guidebook, and finished up a (harder) gully lower down from the correct one.
with Andy
NickST 6 Aug, 2018 AltLd
with Phil Tucker
with Phil Tucker
stevethomas 27 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with Heather
with Heather
Hidden 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Sam B 18 Jun, 2018 AltLd An excellent climb, with perhaps a little difficulty with the route finding at times. I ended up leading several early pitches, and climbing the obvious off-width instead of the less interesting face climb to its right.
An excellent climb, with perhaps a little difficulty with the route finding at times. I ended up leading several early pitches, and climbing the obvious off-width instead of the less interesting face climb to its right.
atthedropofahat 18 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Led in blocks. Lower pitches taken from the Alta varient. Led top 3 pitches at max grade of IV.
Led in blocks. Lower pitches taken from the Alta varient. Led top 3 pitches at max grade of IV.
Andre Clarke 6 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
JimOakleyAdventures 3 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S Started at 10 from car park 30 mins up By 1100hrs Andre led Me 2nd 1130hrs Mark had pulled off a double bed size rock and cut his finger Hospital and then to Bullono Andre & I continued and found last three pitches wrong Go up right hand chimney (not the left) Found ourselves by a cave so we scrambled out through this 4hrs 1 hr Walk down jack
with Andre CL , Mark Police
Started at 10 from car park 30 mins up By 1100hrs Andre led Me 2nd 1130hrs Mark had pulled off a double bed size rock and cut his finger Hospital and then to Bullono Andre & I continued and found last three pitches wrong Go up right hand chimney (not the left) Found ourselves by a cave so we scrambled out through this 4hrs 1 hr Walk down jack
with Andre CL , Mark Police
jon_gill1 23 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with chris Lyness, ripper
with chris Lyness, ripper
ripper 23 Aug, 2017 AltLd as a three with Jon and Chris - some decent pitches, some a bit easy/scrambly
as a three with Jon and Chris - some decent pitches, some a bit easy/scrambly
Alessandro Tentori 16 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Tommaso Regesta
with Tommaso Regesta
mes32 12 Sep, 2016 Lead dnf Climbed first 5 pitches pretty quickly with pleasant climbing. Like many before us had route-finding issues on P6. Description says follow a chimney gully to the left, and this is marked on topo. It's tempting to follow the obvious gully to the left of the belay, which is rather chossy. There's even a bolt near the top that seems like a belay. However heading up from this into 'pitch 7' it was obvious the climbing was far harder and on very broken but steep rock. The multitude of slings and tat confirming this is a mistake many make and then retreat from. I down climbed and we planned on re-finding the route, but then a storm hit and lightning/hail forced retreat. I suspect the correct line for P6 is as others have said - not the obvious left gully but a smaller one to its right (above the belay).
with Adam
Climbed first 5 pitches pretty quickly with pleasant climbing. Like many before us had route-finding issues on P6. Description says follow a chimney gully to the left, and this is marked on topo. It's tempting to follow the obvious gully to the left of the belay, which is rather chossy. There's even a bolt near the top that seems like a belay. However heading up from this into 'pitch 7' it was obvious the climbing was far harder and on very broken but steep rock. The multitude of slings and tat confirming this is a mistake many make and then retreat from. I down climbed and we planned on re-finding the route, but then a storm hit and lightning/hail forced retreat. I suspect the correct line for P6 is as others have said - not the obvious left gully but a smaller one to its right (above the belay).
with Adam
Hidden 12 Sep, 2016 2nd dnf
Hotcake ?Sep, 2016 Lead MP - 2 seconds. Some nice climbing but lots of chossy mess and loose rock. in situ gear is mainly ancient.
MP - 2 seconds. Some nice climbing but lots of chossy mess and loose rock. in situ gear is mainly ancient.
WLNesfield ?Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Belay stances as per the guidebook occasionally chossy - easy to climb on past to get to better ones close by.
with 2 students
Belay stances as per the guidebook occasionally chossy - easy to climb on past to get to better ones close by.
with 2 students
GDS 20 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with rob
with rob
gateaublaster 6 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Goran Glumac 5 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Nice route
Nice route
Tmgreenfield ?Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Got a bit lost on P6. Go direct up from the belay
with Jenny
Got a bit lost on P6. Go direct up from the belay
with Jenny
Wine and climb 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Followed topo up to pitch 6. There seemed to be 2 gully's though of which we picked the left one. After the initial left hand gully scramble the next pitch turned into reasonably tough v+ climbing. We found ourselves at multiple slings and needed to ab 20m to rejoin the route. Looks like many people have also made this mistake!! We should have taken the right hand gully not the left one. Topo from rockfax doesn't make the route very clear so a fair bit of dolomites route finding may be needed!
with truan
Followed topo up to pitch 6. There seemed to be 2 gully's though of which we picked the left one. After the initial left hand gully scramble the next pitch turned into reasonably tough v+ climbing. We found ourselves at multiple slings and needed to ab 20m to rejoin the route. Looks like many people have also made this mistake!! We should have taken the right hand gully not the left one. Topo from rockfax doesn't make the route very clear so a fair bit of dolomites route finding may be needed!
with truan
Gibbs3799 25 Jul, 2016 Lead Guiding novices on a course.
Guiding novices on a course.
evhall 16 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S First climb - very easy maybe severe at most - but great fun!
with Tim Bray
First climb - very easy maybe severe at most - but great fun!
with Tim Bray
thetradlad 14 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with Maikel Blau
with Maikel Blau
Hidden 10 Jul, 2016 AltLd
benny_m 10 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Great route up to pitch 6 then pretty loose and poor quality, climbed in about 2 hours, no one else on the route due to the forecast, got up and down just before a huge thunder storm.
Great route up to pitch 6 then pretty loose and poor quality, climbed in about 2 hours, no one else on the route due to the forecast, got up and down just before a huge thunder storm.
Hidden 11 Dec, 2015 AltLd
trwolfe13 19 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
cameron_hall 19 Sep, 2015 AltLd rpt Led P1-4 and final pitch (I think)
with Clare Martin, trwolfe13
Led P1-4 and final pitch (I think)
with Clare Martin, trwolfe13
Hidden 13 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
ms26g10 28 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Lead all 8 pitches, did the first pitch in a pair of my grippy crag shoes!
with Kw2015
Lead all 8 pitches, did the first pitch in a pair of my grippy crag shoes!
with Kw2015
andyclimber 27 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead 1st, 3rd, 5th and 8th pitches
Lead 1st, 3rd, 5th and 8th pitches
Steve Lenartowicz 26 Aug, 2015 Lead
with Clare
with Clare
Warner 18 Aug, 2015 AltLd
with Tom
with Tom
Mike W ?Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
kingjam 23 Jul, 2015 AltLd
with Matt Naylor
with Matt Naylor
Warner 14 Jul, 2015 2nd
with Tom
with Tom
Hidden 13 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
NatCheeseman 13 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Just made it down before dark!
with Ben Knudson
Just made it down before dark!
with Ben Knudson
Hidden 12 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
gmatthew 2 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Fiona Reid 18 Jul, 2014 - Really enjoyed this until pitch 8. Multiple looks to see if anything grade IV could be found - I followed multiple topos and signs of a lot previous traffic up a left sloping ramp (piton at top) and back right. What I went up was ~V/V+ overhanging with loose rock finishing to the right and below a large cave looking into a deep gully. The next pitch is meant to grade II but what loomed above was definitely not. Abseiled down gully to rejoin where everyone else seemed to go. The amount of tat, mallions and two jammed ropes suggest we weren't the first and probably won't be the last!
Really enjoyed this until pitch 8. Multiple looks to see if anything grade IV could be found - I followed multiple topos and signs of a lot previous traffic up a left sloping ramp (piton at top) and back right. What I went up was ~V/V+ overhanging with loose rock finishing to the right and below a large cave looking into a deep gully. The next pitch is meant to grade II but what loomed above was definitely not. Abseiled down gully to rejoin where everyone else seemed to go. The amount of tat, mallions and two jammed ropes suggest we weren't the first and probably won't be the last!
p.j.deacon 18 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
niallk 18 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S Nice route, great day. Led the last few pitches. Started too far to the left and Steven led a couple of wandering pitches before we joined the route proper a couple of pitches up. Judging from all the tat and polish we clearly weren't the first. Still weren't immediately certain once we were on the route due to topo inadequacies.
with climberuk, Pam
Nice route, great day. Led the last few pitches. Started too far to the left and Steven led a couple of wandering pitches before we joined the route proper a couple of pitches up. Judging from all the tat and polish we clearly weren't the first. Still weren't immediately certain once we were on the route due to topo inadequacies.
with climberuk, Pam
climberuk 18 Sep, 2013 AltLd
with niallk
with niallk
Hidden 18 Sep, 2013 AltLd
wilf 14 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S first multipitch in dolomites. great introduction. fine day, led all with nick. follow polish on top 4 pitches. vf down easy to find
with Tom, Andy, nick f
first multipitch in dolomites. great introduction. fine day, led all with nick. follow polish on top 4 pitches. vf down easy to find
with Tom, Andy, nick f
Hidden 9 Sep, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 8 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 7 Jul, 2013 AltLd
EmSto ?Jul, 2013 AltLd With Laura and Caitlin. Fun, until weird pitch 8. Then ended up being a gravelly walk after being stuck in a weird gap for an hour
With Laura and Caitlin. Fun, until weird pitch 8. Then ended up being a gravelly walk after being stuck in a weird gap for an hour
Zoe Cockburn ?Jul, 2013 AltLd
alicethwaites 21 Jun, 2013 2nd
tim exley 21 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S moved quickly, descended VF. worth checking out the trenches on way down!
moved quickly, descended VF. worth checking out the trenches on way down!
Hidden ?Sep, 2012 2nd
Hidden 28 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Aug, 2012 Lead
Hidden 2 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
johnpuddephatt 2 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Halla Parkin, Will Hunt
with Halla Parkin, Will Hunt
Will Hunt 1 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Nice route despite Italians chucking choss down at us from the final exit pitches. Seemingly without reason, I don't think we dislodged anything.
with Halla Parkin, johnpuddephatt
Nice route despite Italians chucking choss down at us from the final exit pitches. Seemingly without reason, I don't think we dislodged anything.
with Halla Parkin, johnpuddephatt
RocKalina ?Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with MM
with MM
RobbieT ?Jun, 2012 AltLd β
LucaC 20 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
ben.richards 19 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
with LucaC
with LucaC
SimonN 11 Jul, 2011 AltLd
with Nigel
with Nigel
roberts1234567890 29 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
with will lucas
with will lucas
clipskipper 24 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S Not particularly inspiring climb. At the big ledge took a line on the right, just to the left of the arete. loose start but then fine climbing at about E1 5b (if you're tall). Good finish to the route.
with Davey Boy
Not particularly inspiring climb. At the big ledge took a line on the right, just to the left of the arete. loose start but then fine climbing at about E1 5b (if you're tall). Good finish to the route.
with Davey Boy
tjekel ??, 2011 -
brianrunner 12 Sep, 2010 AltLd nice pleasant route on good rock.
with martina
nice pleasant route on good rock.
with martina
uphillnow 1 Sep, 2010 AltLd
with Stuart Holmes
with Stuart Holmes
Chris_Mullaney 25 Aug, 2010 2nd
with Mr. K
with Mr. K
adam06 25 Aug, 2010 AltLd
with Chris Mullaney, Mr. K, James Oswald
with Chris Mullaney, Mr. K, James Oswald
James Oswald 25 Aug, 2010 2nd
with Mr. K
with Mr. K
Mr. K 25 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Lead all but first pitch.
with James Oswald, Adam Radcliff, Chris_Mullaney
Lead all but first pitch.
with James Oswald, Adam Radcliff, Chris_Mullaney
Hidden 27 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
JLS 19 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Well climbed the wall left of via del buco, joining the route proper at half height.
with Jacqui
Well climbed the wall left of via del buco, joining the route proper at half height.
with Jacqui
John HW 23 Jun, 2010 Lead Fiarly straight forward route finding; until the top! The kletterstieg bridge has been destroyed therefore could not walk of the noraml way. Concidered rapping down route but stuidents tired and a bit fragged. so short roped them up to summit (large steep snow patches and then tried to walk down the tunnels from the summit, 30m into the tunnels the way was blocked by ice and was flooded. Walked of via foot path to N and then into valley, = a very long day.
with 2 x Students
Fiarly straight forward route finding; until the top! The kletterstieg bridge has been destroyed therefore could not walk of the noraml way. Concidered rapping down route but stuidents tired and a bit fragged. so short roped them up to summit (large steep snow patches and then tried to walk down the tunnels from the summit, 30m into the tunnels the way was blocked by ice and was flooded. Walked of via foot path to N and then into valley, = a very long day.
with 2 x Students
EmileCilliers 21 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
James Oswald ??, 2010 - Second route in the dolomites. Forgot to clip a runner on the third pitch so some of it felt way more runout than it should have. An awesome route. Efficiency was upped on this one!
Second route in the dolomites. Forgot to clip a runner on the third pitch so some of it felt way more runout than it should have. An awesome route. Efficiency was upped on this one!
Hidden 3 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Lev 18 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Emma
with Emma
Hidden 11 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 Jul, 2008 2nd
JGW ?Jul, 2008 AltLd Went slightly off-route in mid-section, number of different (mostly peg-protected) lines.
with Matt Tilley
Went slightly off-route in mid-section, number of different (mostly peg-protected) lines.
with Matt Tilley
Protheroe ?Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Kyle Mosley
with Kyle Mosley
Hidden 29 Jun, 2008 AltLd
Em66 21 Jun, 2008 2nd
with Freg1
with Freg1
Tarquin ??, 2008 Lead
halhorner 15 Aug, 2007 AltLd
with Trevor Witts
with Trevor Witts
Ing 15 Aug, 2007 AltLd
cpoad 17 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Clare F
with Clare F
FrankW 11 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Joe
with Joe
Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons 9 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S Must read the guide book the next time, were supposed to be doing another route! Quite run out above the overlap / overhang
with Andy porter
Must read the guide book the next time, were supposed to be doing another route! Quite run out above the overlap / overhang
with Andy porter
AndyP 9 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S Good route. It looks intimidating for the grade but it does lean back comfortably and the top is a bit of a romp.
with Jamie
Good route. It looks intimidating for the grade but it does lean back comfortably and the top is a bit of a romp.
with Jamie
dsh ?Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
with Rob Barton
with Rob Barton
rob stokes ?Jul, 2004 AltLd O/S :)
with ryan
:)
with ryan
jcw 28 Aug, 2003 -
with Andre Ike
with Andre Ike
Hidden 22 Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Jul, 2001 AltLd O/S
6 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High IV-
Mid IV-
Low IV-
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set