Restricted Access
The crag is on private land and also within the Alyn Valley Woods Site of Special Scientific Interest designated site.
Please dont approach the crag thorugh the Ty Bont Caravan park, only use the public rights of way. It's highly likley that any climbers seen here could be asked to leave by the landowner. If approached by the land owner, please be courteous and follow instructions and report to the BMC. In the meantime the BMC is attempting to secure a negotiated access.
Although there are public rights of way that pass close to the crag, the landowner has written to the climbers involved with re-developing the crag that he doesn't wish to see climbing being "advertised" here, stating that climbing here is "unsafe and on private property".
Rockfax Description
Good positions. Start below a bolt under the left end of the large grass ledge. Climb the lower wall past the bolt or use the groove to the left. From the ledge climb the rib right of Discovery and trend further rightwards before moving back left on a thin break and up to finish. © Rockfax
FA. Ian Walton 2000s.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| B.Roberts | 23 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Be aware of a fairly large side pull mid way on the climb. It is cracked most of the way around and hollow. Trouble is it's quite a key hand hold at that point then foothold as you progress that you instinctively want to use. I would say if you weighted it at all it may come off and it's quite a chunk of rock!! Needs looking at with a crowbar I would say before there's an accident. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Be aware of a fairly large side pull mid way on the climb. It is cracked most of the way around and hollow. Trouble is it's quite a key hand hold at that point then foothold as you progress that you instinctively want to use. I would say if you weighted it at all it may come off and it's quite a chunk of rock!! Needs looking at with a crowbar I would say before there's an accident. |
||||
| harold walmsley | 23 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bolts not SS but look OK. Checked the runner bolts with a torque wrench, new nut and washer and lubricated thread (May '19). All tightened OK to 30 Nm. Lower-offs not torque set so couldn't check them. They look decent so assumed they were to same standard and OK. Jun '19, dug the soil back from the edge of the low ledge to provide a decent exit from the lower wall. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Bolts not SS but look OK. Checked the runner bolts with a torque wrench, new nut and washer and lubricated thread (May '19). All tightened OK to 30 Nm. Lower-offs not torque set so couldn't check them. They look decent so assumed they were to same standard and OK. Jun '19, dug the soil back from the edge of the low ledge to provide a decent exit from the lower wall. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Borderline
Grade: 6a+ ***
(Trevor Quarry)