The crag is on private land and also within the Alyn Valley Woods Site of Special Scientific Interest designated site.
Please dont approach the crag thorugh the Ty Bont Caravan park, only use the public rights of way. It's highly likley that any climbers seen here could be asked to leave by the landowner. If approached by the land owner, please be courteous and follow instructions and report to the BMC. In the meantime the BMC is attempting to secure a negotiated access.
Although there are public rights of way that pass close to the crag, the landowner has written to the climbers involved with re-developing the crag that he doesn't wish to see climbing being "advertised" here, stating that climbing here is "unsafe and on private property".
A good route up a slight rib left of the upper wall of Secret Santa. Steep and more pumpy than most here. Follow Secret Santa to the grass ledge. Step on to the upper wall on the right, move left and climb the left side of the shallow rib, with the odd leftward excursion, on positive but sometimes small and well-disguised holds. © Rockfax
FA. H.Walmsley, C.Calow 27/Jun/2019.
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