Rockfax Description
A classic landmark route connecting a series of shallow grooves after a bouldery start. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A definitive classic of its grade. About 11m right of the Subversive groove is a prominent rectangular hold at about 3m Gain this with difficulty and pull up to the break. Pull over the first roof (crux), then amble up the slab to a groove. Pull round this, over an overlap and into the upper groove. Make a baffling move out right, then continue to the next BR. Swing blindly left into a short finishing groove and finish easily. BB.

Gary Gibson, Matt Ward, Martin Crocker 18/May/1985

Ticklists

CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Rockfax South Wales Top 50, CUMC Ticklist, Becky's ticklist, The Road to 8a, Rockfax South Wales Top 45, Pathway to Triple 8

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
dan gibson 8 Sep Lead O/S
Max Lowry 4 Aug Lead O/S
Sam Brown 5 Jun Lead rpt
with Natalie Brown
with Natalie Brown
julesmckim 31 May Lead β Absolutely superb - so varied and with plenty of rests between bouldery sections. Pleased to get the flash, ignoring the few goes on the boulder problem start and a rock pile collapse. Hard start felt about V4 then a grunty udge over the bulge followed by brilliant slabby moves to the top. We both stayed more in the groove on the extension at the top.
with Rado
Absolutely superb - so varied and with plenty of rests between bouldery sections. Pleased to get the flash, ignoring the few goes on the boulder problem start and a rock pile collapse. Hard start felt about V4 then a grunty udge over the bulge followed by brilliant slabby moves to the top. We both stayed more in the groove on the extension at the top.
with Rado
Hidden 28 Apr Lead RP
Rhys hall ?? Lead RP good climbing once you know the beta
good climbing once you know the beta
FelixPeterken 1 Sep, 2018 Lead RP Retroflash. Once through the rock over move it's just keeping your head together
with Steph
Retroflash. Once through the rock over move it's just keeping your head together
with Steph
FelixPeterken 1 Sep, 2018 Lead RP Retroflash. Once through the rock over move it's just keeping your head together
with Steph
Retroflash. Once through the rock over move it's just keeping your head together
with Steph
afrosam 1 Sep, 2018 Lead RP
Hidden 28 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Aug, 2018 2nd dog
mop449 30 Jun, 2018 Lead dnf Was going to put the clips in for Rosie. Way too hot, so bailed.
Was going to put the clips in for Rosie. Way too hot, so bailed.
tobydunford 17 Jun, 2018 Lead RP Top roped first then first redpoint. Wish id given it an onsight go. Had to fight through the midges and surprisingly dusty for a super classic.
with Harry Martin
Top roped first then first redpoint. Wish id given it an onsight go. Had to fight through the midges and surprisingly dusty for a super classic.
with Harry Martin
Hidden 13 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 May, 2018 Lead rpt
dclarkson 21 Apr, 2018 Lead dog Start is super bouldery. After pulling over the roof sustained but enjoyable all the way to the top. The bottom is hard!
Start is super bouldery. After pulling over the roof sustained but enjoyable all the way to the top. The bottom is hard!
Sam Willis ??, 2018 Lead β
Hidden 21 Sep, 2017 Lead RP
Rob Knowles 21 Sep, 2017 Lead RP Best sport route I've done
with Harry
Best sport route I've done
with Harry
Tom92 19 Sep, 2017 Lead β Loads of beta from Harry! Very good!
Loads of beta from Harry! Very good!
Adam24B 13 Sep, 2017 Lead RP Fell `off the mantle firs`t time, got it second go
with Kris2fa
Fell `off the mantle firs`t time, got it second go
with Kris2fa
Hidden 3 Sep, 2017 Lead RP
Mike_Hayes 31 Aug, 2017 Lead RP 1st RP. Hard for 7a+
with dan parkes
1st RP. Hard for 7a+
with dan parkes
lukehodson 28 Aug, 2017 Lead dog In the full afternoon sun, not a chance!
In the full afternoon sun, not a chance!
Dan Jenkin 29 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Gordon Jenkin
with Gordon Jenkin
Duncan Campbell 4 Jul, 2017 Lead RP Failed at the first hurdle. Returned to floor And managed to get through but was stopped by the mantle move. Bad skin and being tired from work are my main excuses, along with being short ;) went to the top which was also tricky! Managed it next go though nearly failed on the mantle again! Top is absolutely superb techy, weird climbing!
Failed at the first hurdle. Returned to floor And managed to get through but was stopped by the mantle move. Bad skin and being tired from work are my main excuses, along with being short ;) went to the top which was also tricky! Managed it next go though nearly failed on the mantle again! Top is absolutely superb techy, weird climbing!
realbobsmith 4 Jul, 2017 Lead β
Hidden 27 Jun, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden 7 May, 2017 Lead β
Martin Bagshaw 7 May, 2017 Lead RP One no and a yes / 1st RP. This does not include about 10 goes to get off the floor, we aren't talking about those.
One no and a yes / 1st RP. This does not include about 10 goes to get off the floor, we aren't talking about those.
dannygale 29 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S 2nd bloody go
with simo
2nd bloody go
with simo
gingernick 28 Apr, 2017 Lead RP Brilliant open climbing. Cheers Steve 😀
Brilliant open climbing. Cheers Steve 😀
steveanthony 28 Apr, 2017 Lead rpt Bit better today. Top work Nick
Bit better today. Top work Nick
steveanthony 21 Apr, 2017 Lead RP With very little finesse!
with Paul, Andy Sharp
With very little finesse!
with Paul, Andy Sharp
SDM 15 Apr, 2017 Lead Fantastic varied route. The pull over the roof definitely isn't the crux if you start it from the beginning...
Fantastic varied route. The pull over the roof definitely isn't the crux if you start it from the beginning...
Tomas P 14 Apr, 2017 Lead RP
with Jon
with Jon
phillipwright 13 Apr, 2017 Lead RP So fun after the first boulder
with mop449
So fun after the first boulder
with mop449
RosieYates 13 Apr, 2017 Lead dog Can't even claim dogged on this as was bumped through the bouldery start and the move over the roof. Rest was interesting and varied. Definitely one to come back to stronger.
with mop449
Can't even claim dogged on this as was bumped through the bouldery start and the move over the roof. Rest was interesting and varied. Definitely one to come back to stronger.
with mop449
mop449 13 Apr, 2017 Lead RP So much fun. The start boulder is as hard as the crux imo. Just brilliant.
So much fun. The start boulder is as hard as the crux imo. Just brilliant.
tommccluskey 4 Apr, 2017 Lead G/U Slipped off the start a few times then straight to the top. Brilliant route!
Slipped off the start a few times then straight to the top. Brilliant route!
dinjones 15 Mar, 2017 Sent x
Billg 17 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt
with Del Jones
with Del Jones
caradogr 5 Aug, 2016 Lead β Don't be deterred by the tricky first few moves.
with Timm
Don't be deterred by the tricky first few moves.
with Timm
Rocky 30 Jul, 2016 TR dog So hard!! Had to pile more stones up to reach the first hold. Getting over the roof was very powerful. Need to get a bit stronger for that. Very top bit hard too but think I worked out a sequence which involved moving rightwards
with remus
So hard!! Had to pile more stones up to reach the first hold. Getting over the roof was very powerful. Need to get a bit stronger for that. Very top bit hard too but think I worked out a sequence which involved moving rightwards
with remus
Hidden 30 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Elliot Walker 23 Jul, 2016 Lead RP
with Skelhon
with Skelhon
hankyc ?Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
blaza1 4 Jun, 2016 Lead β Great Route
Great Route
Ollie B 25 May, 2016 Lead β Did before in the rain but didn't learn any moves as spent more time trying to avoid the downpour.
with B.Gregory
Did before in the rain but didn't learn any moves as spent more time trying to avoid the downpour.
with B.Gregory
Stuart William 24 Apr, 2016 Lead RP Got it first redpoint. Fairly straightforward once you find all of the rests. Really cool and varied climbing.
Got it first redpoint. Fairly straightforward once you find all of the rests. Really cool and varied climbing.
mikedevcole 24 Apr, 2016 Lead RP Amazing route. Unfortunately I succumbed to building a pile of stones to reach the crimp (per the description on SWMC Wiki). Frustratingly I had done the start from side pull and gaston crimp earlier but fluffed the mantel over the roof.
Amazing route. Unfortunately I succumbed to building a pile of stones to reach the crimp (per the description on SWMC Wiki). Frustratingly I had done the start from side pull and gaston crimp earlier but fluffed the mantel over the roof.
Hidden 25 Mar, 2016 Lead RP
Spillers 19 Mar, 2016 2nd
Ricky Rocks 19 Mar, 2016 Lead β
Hidden 31 Aug, 2015 Lead RP
mattrm 29 Aug, 2015 TR dnf Utterly nails. Especially some of the moves at the top. Great route tho.
with TomPR
Utterly nails. Especially some of the moves at the top. Great route tho.
with TomPR
ChrisDavis 27 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
with Sam Taylor
Matt Cooke 27 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
simo 6 Jun, 2015 Lead dnf
joe1joe1joe2 30 May, 2015 Lead β
GeneralFifi 30 May, 2015 Lead dog Tried after a long successful day, climbing my first 7b earlier. Got al the way to the top with one or two falls, the slab sections suit me and feel quite easy and only the rockover at the end of the roof at the beginning gives me some trouble. Will go next time, brilliant route
with Ross Smith, gheadley27, joe1joe1joe2, mop449
Tried after a long successful day, climbing my first 7b earlier. Got al the way to the top with one or two falls, the slab sections suit me and feel quite easy and only the rockover at the end of the roof at the beginning gives me some trouble. Will go next time, brilliant route
with Ross Smith, gheadley27, joe1joe1joe2, mop449
Nick Sherring 25 May, 2015 Lead RP Brilliant route with a bit of everything, worth the 3 stars. Pleased to get first rp after nearly peeling off the final bulge. Knackered!
Brilliant route with a bit of everything, worth the 3 stars. Pleased to get first rp after nearly peeling off the final bulge. Knackered!
dean79 25 May, 2015 TR dog
Dave Cale 15 May, 2015 Lead β amazing route.
amazing route.
psborland 4 May, 2015 TR dog 1
1
Hidden 25 Apr, 2015 Lead
imogen.fish 6 Sep, 2014 Lead RP
OERees 21 Jul, 2014 Lead β
tommccluskey 1 Jun, 2014 2nd dog Crux is ok but getting the blocky square hold was absolutely desperate for me!
Crux is ok but getting the blocky square hold was absolutely desperate for me!
Hidden 21 May, 2014 Lead RP
roberto pellegrini 3 May, 2014 Lead
Hidden 24 Apr, 2014 Lead RP
Billg 15 Apr, 2014 Lead rpt
with Kev Little
with Kev Little
Jack.H.92 13 Apr, 2014 Lead RP
Carl Watkins 10 Apr, 2014 Lead RP got on the 3rd go with lots of beta from bill
with Billg
got on the 3rd go with lots of beta from bill
with Billg
Billg 10 Apr, 2014 Lead rpt Three times due to everything else being wet
with Carl Watkins
Three times due to everything else being wet
with Carl Watkins
Hidden ??, 2014 -
karoo88 1 Sep, 2013 Lead RP At last... :-)
At last... :-)
peteharrison06 ?Aug, 2013 Lead O/S A good route but not one of the '100 best climbs in the UK'! Probably not one of the 100 best sport climbs.
A good route but not one of the '100 best climbs in the UK'! Probably not one of the 100 best sport climbs.
Michelle W 27 Jul, 2013 Lead RP 1st redpoint attempt. Great route :)
with karoo88
1st redpoint attempt. Great route :)
with karoo88
Luuuuuke 30 Jun, 2013 Lead RP
Billg 19 Jun, 2013 Lead rpt
with Lee Bateman, Andy Wiseman
with Lee Bateman, Andy Wiseman
chrisscutt 19 Jun, 2013 Lead RP
with andy, Bates
with andy, Bates
Speed Reed 5 Jun, 2013 Lead RP
with Mark Richardson
with Mark Richardson
valecoastclimber 18 May, 2013 Lead rpt
chris wyatt 4 May, 2013 AltLd RP At long last! sadly took me five sessions and about a year! glad
with dan cook, John Bullock
At long last! sadly took me five sessions and about a year! glad
with dan cook, John Bullock
Kyuzo ??, 2013 -
Tom Heslam ??, 2013 Lead rpt
Hidden ??, 2013 -
dannyboy83 11 Nov, 2012 Lead RP Easy when I could finally feel my fingers
with Sky
Easy when I could finally feel my fingers
with Sky
Spillers 25 Sep, 2012 Lead RP
Stone Muppet 4 Jun, 2012 Lead dog Pleased to decipher the crux on second burn. The real effort came from Ben though, belaying in a cloud of midges! Cheers mate
Pleased to decipher the crux on second burn. The real effort came from Ben though, belaying in a cloud of midges! Cheers mate
Tom Heslam 30 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with Gav, Si Brice
with Gav, Si Brice
brices 30 Mar, 2012 Lead dog
Billg 15 Oct, 2011 Lead rpt
with devo
with devo
Hidden 15 Oct, 2011 Lead dog
Hidden 14 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
Billg 11 Sep, 2011 Lead rpt
with Bob Brewer
with Bob Brewer
Cailean Harker 3 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
MorganPreece 30 Aug, 2011 Lead rpt Nice first route to get me back in to some sport!
with Jessy
Nice first route to get me back in to some sport!
with Jessy
mloskot 29 Aug, 2011 Lead RP
with Mr Lopez
with Mr Lopez
Hidden 28 Aug, 2011 -
mikeshewring 14 Aug, 2011 TR β
Mike Goldthorp 27 Jul, 2011 Lead β Great intermittent route, cool cruxes with rests and slabby sections in between, some vague beta from ben helped a lot.
with Ben Norman
Great intermittent route, cool cruxes with rests and slabby sections in between, some vague beta from ben helped a lot.
with Ben Norman
dshearer 13 Jul, 2011 Lead RP
BenNorman 9 Jul, 2011 Lead RP fell off tricky move in top groove on onsight, bit gutted, did to the top then clean at end of session as training lap, felt like a warm down when i knew what i was doing, soft?
fell off tricky move in top groove on onsight, bit gutted, did to the top then clean at end of session as training lap, felt like a warm down when i knew what i was doing, soft?
Hidden 2 Jul, 2011 2nd dog
givemetea 2 Jul, 2011 TR dog
Garrouli ?Jul, 2011 Lead RP
with Pete
with Pete
peaches69 29 Jun, 2011 Lead RP dogged, top roped (not clean) then lead differently to how i tr'd it
with con321
dogged, top roped (not clean) then lead differently to how i tr'd it
with con321
Billg 10 Jun, 2011 Lead rpt
with Nik Goile
with Nik Goile
steve_yo ?Jun, 2011 Lead β
with joe c
with joe c
eddy-on-the-rocks 8 May, 2011 Lead O/S
with James
with James
Billg 2 May, 2011 Lead rpt
with Will Calvert
with Will Calvert
Hidden 2 Apr, 2011 Lead RP
gazhbo ??, 2011 Lead RP
Caspian Johnson 13 Dec, 2010 Lead RP
Dan_Carroll 17 Oct, 2010 Lead RP
BicepAndrews 17 Oct, 2010 Lead RP
i_a_coops 8 Sep, 2010 Lead β
Hidden 8 Sep, 2010 2nd dog
richsmithinbristol 4 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S Brilliant varied climbing. Insisted on no beta from the locals!
Brilliant varied climbing. Insisted on no beta from the locals!
crispyboy 29 Aug, 2010 Lead rpt
with sean cullen
with sean cullen
irish paul 29 Aug, 2010 Lead rpt
with Chris J
with Chris J
tombeasley 25 Jul, 2010 Lead dnf Must get back and try this again
with Mike
Must get back and try this again
with Mike
Hidden 24 Jul, 2010 Lead RP
richardr 8 Jul, 2010 Lead RP
Cowflinger 1 May, 2010 -
mikeshewring 1 May, 2010 Lead dog
rhoslynfrugtniet ?May, 2010 Lead
MorganPreece 10 Sep, 2009 Lead β Nice easy this time, 2nd go, so didunt really work it!
with Jessy
Nice easy this time, 2nd go, so didunt really work it!
with Jessy
Wil Treasure ?Sep, 2009 Lead RP After a run on a shunt a few weeks earlier. Probably better to do the direct as the finish spoils the route a bit.
After a run on a shunt a few weeks earlier. Probably better to do the direct as the finish spoils the route a bit.
Hidden 14 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Jul, 2009 Lead RP
Dave Bond 29 Jun, 2009 Lead RP
Hidden 29 Jun, 2009 Lead β
DafSWMC 28 Jun, 2009 Lead RP Almost exactly a year to the day since I first got on it.
with gejones
Almost exactly a year to the day since I first got on it.
with gejones
Hidden 27 Jun, 2009 Lead dog
gejones 26 Apr, 2009 Lead β With clips in and lots of beta.
with DafSWMC
With clips in and lots of beta.
with DafSWMC
Cowflinger 29 Mar, 2009 Lead dog
Tim W 22 Mar, 2009 Lead RP
with Gareth Tucker
with Gareth Tucker
daniel hobbs ?Mar, 2009 Lead β
going going gone ??, 2009 Lead β thought it was a great climb.didnt fall off thanks to the beta from si
with simon rowlinson
thought it was a great climb.didnt fall off thanks to the beta from si
with simon rowlinson
jfreeman 26 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
with Simon and Stu
with Simon and Stu
simonr 26 Sep, 2008 Lead RP
Hidden 17 Jul, 2008 Lead RP
DafSWMC 29 Jun, 2008 TR dog Couldn't pull over the lip.
Couldn't pull over the lip.
Hidden 14 Jun, 2008 Lead β
Hidden 1 Jun, 2008 Lead RP
Billg 1 Jun, 2008 Lead β
Hidden 29 May, 2008 TR dog
Lee Proctor 7 May, 2007 Lead RP
with Paul Bolger
with Paul Bolger
Hidden 13 Jul, 2006 Lead RP
Cowflinger ?Jun, 1995 Lead RP
goi.ashmore 2 May, 1994 Lead O/S The best! Stunning climbing weekend!
with Matt Hirst
The best! Stunning climbing weekend!
with Matt Hirst
Eugetj ?Sep, 1992 Lead RP
Steve Lewis 14 Jul, 1985 Lead O/S
with Alun Richardson
with Alun Richardson
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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 45
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set