Restricted Access
An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.
While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy.
June 2024 Small rock fall on Open Roads and De-Regulators.
Rockfax Description
A classic landmark route connecting a series of shallow grooves after a bouldery start. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A definitive classic of its grade. About 11m right of the Subversive groove is a prominent rectangular hold at about 3m. Those of shorter stature may need to start from a pile of rocks or wood in order to reach the first good (LH) crimp. Gain the block hold with difficulty and pull up to the break. Pull over the first roof (crux), then amble up the slab to a groove. Pull round this, over an overlap and into the upper groove. Make a baffling move out right, then continue to the next BR. Swing blindly left into a short finishing groove and finish easily. BB.
Gary Gibson, Matt Ward, Martin Crocker 18/May/1985.
Ticklists
CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Rockfax South Wales Top 50 , CUMC Ticklist , Becky's ticklist , The Road to 8a , Rockfax South Wales Top 45 , Pathway to Triple 8 , The road to Statement of Youth , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Rig open Alban | 1 Apr |
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βeta: Wish someone told me on here to start from the log | βeta? | |
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βeta: Wish someone told me on here to start from the log |
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| BarwoodP | 6 Jan |
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βeta: nails for 7a+ | βeta? | |
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βeta: nails for 7a+ |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dinas Rock
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Marine Layer
Grade: 7a+ ***
(Rhossili Beach)