Rockfax Description
A superb set of sustained and interesting pitches up this amazing wall. Start by making 2 x 30m abseils from the terrace to the small ledge at the start of the route.
1) 6a+, 30m. Start from the ledge and move up and slightly right to gain the right line of bolts. Follow them up the technical slab to reach a more steep and sustained crack. Follow this with continued interest to the belay.
2) 6b, 30m. A steep start leads to a difficult section bridging through the steep bulging section to finally enter the top groove. Climb this more easily to the terrace.
3) 6c, 30m. The left of two cracks goes up and through a roof to gain the upper corner. Avoid this at first on the right before moving back into it and continuing to belay on the tree above.
4) 6a+, Go past the tree and enter another corner/groove system. The route Kaio Kume is on your left. Continue up to the next vegetated terrace and belay.
5) 15m. Traverse right along the ledge passing the top groove of Kalokume.
6) 6a+. Climb the wall between a couple of other routes. Move up and left across Egunkaria Libre. Continue on to gain the final groove of Kaiokume. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
30m 6a+
30m 6b
40m 6c
35m 6a+
35m 6a+
Starts from lower ledge - 2 x30m abs to reach the bottom from middle ledge.

Feedback Always Hide βeta