From the middle of the wall on the right of Sex and Casual Ties, move up to a pocket and large hold. Crux move through to small pockets. Friable finish

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Nesscliffe: Marlene Face routes, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

FreddieSmith 30/Oct/17 Lead RP
with Binigo
MathewWright1998 14/Oct/17 Lead β

Abseil inspection

Phil Davidson 09/Jul/17 Lead rpt
with Edward Crossland, Karl Smith, Daz Devey
Toby 09/Jul/17 TR β
with Nate
rosiehawker 13/Jun/17 TR
Daz8477 09/Sep/16 TR O/S
with Ed, Phil Davidson
Phil Davidson 09/Sep/16 TR
Ramon Marin 06/Aug/16 TR rpt
with jerome mowat
thealbinocrab 06/Aug/16 Lead β

Nice :) Two pieces of gear pre placed

with jerome mowat
Ramon Marin 06/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with jerome mowat
MrFantastic 06/Aug/16 TR
with Ramon Marin, Ben, Jerome
Davecapewell 17/May/16 TR rpt

Couldn't get past the mono last time but climbed it clean twice tonight. Got sequence sorted. Next is the redpoint.

with Simon m, Fattmarr
Hidden 25/Mar/16 TR O/S
Ed Booth 20/Mar/16 TR
with Rob Ireson
Phil Davidson 13/Mar/16 TR O/S

would of lead this no worries but it was damp!!

with Edward Crossland
Ramon Marin 13/Sep/15 Lead RP

It was filthy today, cleaned, showed the moves to Tom. Then send it next go

with Tom le fanu
Dave Turnbull, BMC 13/Sep/15 Lead RP

TR first then fine. Didn't use thread (definitely be tricky to place o/s), or top peg.

Hidden 13/Sep/15 2nd
Sam2257 16/Aug/15 TR dog

1st go was desperate. much easier after big brush/clean and a bit of beta. great fun.

with Javis
Javis 16/Aug/15 TR
Davecapewell 23/Jul/15 TR dog
with Mathew, Matt
ADConway 02/Jun/15 TR dnf
with Dante
Tom.Priestley 21/May/15 TR rpt

Jump is still harrowing as ever, get a mate to abseil and clean if it going for the onsight. The

gazhbo 26/Apr/15 Lead β

On Orange's gear. One pad mono three moves off the ground. Warm up your finger first.

Ramon Marin 11/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with dave pickford
Ramon Marin 23/Oct/14 Lead RP

Pretty late in the season, fairly wet and crumbly, but send after a toprope. The mono move was evil and i think pulled a tendon, but rock season is over for me so I didn't really care.

with viki harvey
Adam_42 22/Jun/14 Lead RP

Beta'd up to the eyeballs but still a big moment for me. First headpoint and of something pretty hard. Really pleased!

Wil Treasure 21/Jun/14 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Jun/14 Lead
anguskille 13/Jun/14 Lead RP

not as go-ey as i thought on the lead it would be, but looking at my logbook i've done it before!

with Rob
Ally Smith 01/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with alaan
alaan 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Ally
Hidden 16/May/14 2nd
Adam Booth 16/May/14 Lead RP

Think I've done my finger pulley on the mono move :-(

Scott Quinn 05/May/14 Lead RP

Awesome climbing chuffed to have lead it clean considering I didnt manage a clean tr - pre placed thread still a faff on abb! I could do the upper crux static and im not very tall, still decided to jump on the lead.

Ally Smith 04/May/14 Lead β

On Johnny's gear

morganator 04/May/14 Lead dog

Tricky stretch for the break then much sandiness but easier. 2 falls before latching the stretch 3rd go.

with Dan Arkle
Tom.Priestley 03/May/14 TR dog
PeteWilson 17/Apr/14 2nd

tough warm up, but cool route, will come back to lead this one

with John P, Andi T, Dave
james.slater 31/Aug/13 Lead RP

After a couple of short sessions and a couple of falls from the top crux! Lovely moves and good gear!

simonsclimbing 31/Aug/13 2nd
with James
mark20 25/Aug/13 Lead β
Hidden 24/Jun/13 TR dog
Hidden 24/Jun/13 TR dog
Michael Allday 09/Jun/13 Lead β
luke384 06/Apr/13 Lead RP

had quick topy on it, then lead it. sick ass moves all way very snady top. great route!

with Ryan mcconnell
sgl0jd ?/Mar/13 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Jan/13 Lead RP
Max Lowry ??/2013 Lead RP

2nd Attempt.

mikeski 11/Aug/12 TR
with alek
alek 11/Aug/12 TR dog
Marti999 08/Aug/12 Lead RP
with Debbie
Mark Riley 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

1st trad lead of the year! Should have read up about the thread being a sod to place on lead, didn't have spare energy so wobbled my way up without.

nathanlee 28/Jul/12 Lead β

Watched people top rope it during the day. Felt steady.

with Dom Lee
switch 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
davidliu 01/Jul/12 Lead RP

Gear in place

Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead RP
najki_2000 01/Jul/12 TR dog

the mono crux is still easier than the top slap for the slopey sandy break - much easier for taller

Cailean Harker 05/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Mike Goldthorp 05/Jun/12 Lead β

Abseiled down it to give it a clean and place the thread, then booshed it. Two big awesome crux moves warrant 6b but with good gear and rests in between maybe only E4...

with Giles, Cailean Harker, Ben Norman
Mattlamb90 29/May/12 TR dog
Luke Owens 29/May/12 TR dog

Did all the moves. Got the upper crux staticly which is way better. Felt easier than "Jump"

with Leon Bowen
Michael Allday 10/Mar/12 TR O/S
with rodney greenfield
Coops_13 28/Oct/11 TR dog

Very Dynamic

Hidden 04/Oct/11 TR O/S
Jordan B 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Naomi Buys
Jon Garside 30/Jul/11 Lead β
Adam Booth 02/Jul/11 TR rpt
with Tim Evans, Roel, Ed Booth
Ed Booth 02/Jul/11 TR
Hidden 02/Jul/11 TR
Harry Thorpe 02/Jun/11 TR RP
thetradlad 02/Jun/11 TR dog

definitely workable! some great jugs just when needed. Very almost got clean

Adam Booth 19/May/11 TR O/S

Looking forward to leading this one...

Hidden 19/May/11 TR dog
Hidden 01/May/11 TR β
phil64 ??/2011 -
Hidden 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
frost 18/Sep/10 2nd dog
with Rob
Alex Mason 01/Sep/10 Lead β

Was told the thread was desparate to place on lead, so abbed it to find it quite easy to place as the thread is wide. Tried not to look at moves but enevitably saw holds especially in the lower reaches. Found move by peg hard to gain the sandy break.

anguskille 16/Aug/10 Lead RP

E4 isn't it? pretty nice climbing most of it, but a bit of a two-move wonder, but its a nice route to test your strength a bit

with Dave
Rich Kirby 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Deserves 3 stars. If you can find and place the totally miss-able thread - E4, without E5.

monsteratt 26/Jun/10 2nd dog
with Morgan Strong Will
MorganPreece 26/Jun/10 Lead dog

Tryed onsight but fell off the last hard move, real sandy! lovely moves lower down like the mono! great route!

with Will
mark s 20/Jun/10 Lead

Tried short mans beta on 5-6-10,fluffed it.2 pissed off to try again.did it this time 1st go e4 6a would be closer.

with jon read
dominic lee 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Jon Read 05/Jun/10 2nd

Fell off! Did the reach grow in a week??

andi turner 31/May/10 Lead O/S

Nice. Thought more E4 6a, but happy to take the E5 tick :o)

with Jon Read
Jon Read 31/May/10 Lead β

With Andi's gear in place. Finished direct.

MikeYouCanClimb 13/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Patrick
lukea 10/May/09 TR rpt
with Al
phil64 ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Gus ??/2009 Lead β
with adam long, Rob Clifton
Hidden ?/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/08 TR dog
smallerrich 28/Jul/08 Lead RP

I love the moves on this climb, good protection as well.

with Will Nicholls
Ed Booth ?/Oct/07 Lead RP

I had tried this route on top rope a while back but never did it one. After belaying Ben do it and a few more years of getting better, i just went for it anyway. Pretty soft E5. Maybe tough E4. One punchy move with a mono. Best thread at Nesscliffe if you find it . . .

with Ben Heason
Hidden 08/Sep/07 Lead β
Hidden ?/May/07 Lead O/S
Martin Cleaver ??/2007 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Aug/06 TR
Hidden ??/2005 Lead RP
pete johnson 03/Jul/04 -
with Rob
Hidden ??/2001 Lead RP
lost.arrow 18/Jun/00 -
lost.arrow 07/Aug/98 TR
smudge 07/Aug/98 TR O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/95 TR RP
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High E6
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 28
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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