From the middle of the wall on the right of Sex and Casual Ties, move up to a pocket and large hold. Crux move through to small pockets. Friable finish

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Nesscliffe: Marlene Face routes, Ultimate E5 ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
john lynch 23 Jul TR O/S On a shunt.
On a shunt.
JamesWilliams 16 Jul Lead RP Mega first hard route at Nesscliffe. Top roped to check the gear and clean it. Then lead placing gear. Felt pretty steady? Easy E5?
Mega first hard route at Nesscliffe. Top roped to check the gear and clean it. Then lead placing gear. Felt pretty steady? Easy E5?
Dizz 16 Jul TR dog Greasy as hell. Great lead by James.
with James williams
Greasy as hell. Great lead by James.
with James williams
Tom Livingstone 1 Jul Lead β Watched Dave and Tim on it. Then I abbed down and put the thread in.
with Ben Silvestre
Watched Dave and Tim on it. Then I abbed down and put the thread in.
with Ben Silvestre
Longsufferingropeholder 1 Jun TR rpt
with Dizz
with Dizz
Dizz 1 Jun TR dog
Dizz 6 May TR dog
with Kevin RM
with Kevin RM
nige 6 May Lead RP
with ewan mccallum
with ewan mccallum
Dizz 4 May TR dog
with Kevin RM
with Kevin RM
Dizz 17 Apr TR dog
with leon
with leon
Ramon Marin 6 Apr TR rpt
with viki harvey
with viki harvey
Richard Kendrick 6 Apr Lead RP Great movement
Great movement
Davecapewell 31 Mar TR rpt
with Little joe
with Little joe
Dohnny_Jawes 24 Mar TR dog
Hidden 24 Mar TR O/S
Hidden 24 Mar Lead RP
mattbaz 23 Mar TR rpt
EmFairbanks 23 Mar TR dnf
with mattbaz
with mattbaz
Luke Brooks 27 Feb Lead O/S
ReubenKouidri 14 Feb Lead RP Fell at crux on first RP attempt and broke the second thread (to RHS of peg). Got it on second RP.
Fell at crux on first RP attempt and broke the second thread (to RHS of peg). Got it on second RP.
Hidden 14 Feb Lead RP
Andy Peak 1 13 Jan Lead RP Fell off first go on the hard move, easy second time in demonising lite.
Fell off first go on the hard move, easy second time in demonising lite.
Flavio 31 Dec, 2018 TR No guidebook and filthy. I think this is what I climbed
No guidebook and filthy. I think this is what I climbed
WilliamRupp 31 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Oct, 2018 Lead G/U
Dizz 21 Oct, 2018 TR RP Easier sequence. Rain prevented lead go.
with Tala
Easier sequence. Rain prevented lead go.
with Tala
Tala A 18 Oct, 2018 Lead RP Placed all gear on lead including the thread. Great route.
Placed all gear on lead including the thread. Great route.
JCAshman 1 Sep, 2018 Lead RP Really good pocketed wall climbing! As with 'toy town' I should have gone for the onsight as it has plenty of good gear and the holds are all there.
Really good pocketed wall climbing! As with 'toy town' I should have gone for the onsight as it has plenty of good gear and the holds are all there.
Longsufferingropeholder 27 Aug, 2018 Lead RP Think I've done myself a mischief trying that mono move. Changed beta for the lead.
Think I've done myself a mischief trying that mono move. Changed beta for the lead.
Kris suriyo 27 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
tprebs 18 Aug, 2018 Lead RP really good gear. clean first go on tr. should have given it a go before the tr
really good gear. clean first go on tr. should have given it a go before the tr
Hidden 18 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
MJHarle 5 Aug, 2018 TR
Matt Harle 5 Aug, 2018 TR
with MJHarle
with MJHarle
TGreen 19 Jun, 2018 Lead RP
Rosie Henstock 19 Jun, 2018 2nd dog Rested to get the sling off the peg and also didn't get the dyno move clean. Better beta for mono move. Small progress.
with TGreen
Rested to get the sling off the peg and also didn't get the dyno move clean. Better beta for mono move. Small progress.
with TGreen
Dizz 13 Jun, 2018 TR dog Really reachy - static sequence possible but really hard at the top. Second go only blew crux ... Dunno if i fancy the whipper but cool moves.
with Rosie
Really reachy - static sequence possible but really hard at the top. Second go only blew crux ... Dunno if i fancy the whipper but cool moves.
with Rosie
Rosie Henstock 13 Jun, 2018 TR dog Becoming more and more a realist proposition. Not exactly my style but very cool moves
with Dizz
Becoming more and more a realist proposition. Not exactly my style but very cool moves
with Dizz
C coldwell-storry 12 Jun, 2018 Lead β
with the jew
with the jew
Rosie Henstock 6 Jun, 2018 TR dog
with TGreen
with TGreen
TGreen 23 May, 2018 TR O/S
with Meg
with Meg
Rosie Henstock 23 May, 2018 TR dnf Not a great warm up!
Not a great warm up!
mshorter 5 May, 2018 Lead O/S Abbed down to place the sling after reading comments on here but didn't look at the moves. Felt very much like an onsight.
Abbed down to place the sling after reading comments on here but didn't look at the moves. Felt very much like an onsight.
Ged Desforges 25 Mar, 2018 - Flashed after Ali. Great fun route with more mono's
Flashed after Ali. Great fun route with more mono's
Wendy 25 Mar, 2018 Lead β Ali's gear
with gazhbo
Ali's gear
with gazhbo
Hidden 25 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Oct, 2017 Lead RP
MathewWright1998 14 Oct, 2017 Lead β Abseil inspection
Abseil inspection
Phil Davidson 9 Jul, 2017 Lead rpt
with Edward Crossland, Karl Smith, Daz Devey
with Edward Crossland, Karl Smith, Daz Devey
Toby 9 Jul, 2017 TR β
with Nate
with Nate
rosiehawker 13 Jun, 2017 TR
Daz Devey 9 Sep, 2016 TR O/S
with Ed, Phil Davidson
with Ed, Phil Davidson
Phil Davidson 9 Sep, 2016 TR
Ramon Marin 6 Aug, 2016 TR rpt
with jerome mowat
with jerome mowat
thealbinocrab 6 Aug, 2016 Lead β Nice :) Two pieces of gear pre placed
with jerome mowat
Nice :) Two pieces of gear pre placed
with jerome mowat
Ramon Marin 6 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt
with jerome mowat
with jerome mowat
MrFantastic 6 Aug, 2016 TR
with Ramon Marin, Ben, Jerome
with Ramon Marin, Ben, Jerome
Davecapewell 17 May, 2016 TR rpt Couldn't get past the mono last time but climbed it clean twice tonight. Got sequence sorted. Next is the redpoint.
with Simon m, mattfarr
Couldn't get past the mono last time but climbed it clean twice tonight. Got sequence sorted. Next is the redpoint.
with Simon m, mattfarr
Hidden 25 Mar, 2016 TR O/S
Ed Booth 20 Mar, 2016 TR
with Rob Ireson
with Rob Ireson
Phil Davidson 13 Mar, 2016 TR O/S would of lead this no worries but it was damp!!
with Edward Crossland
would of lead this no worries but it was damp!!
with Edward Crossland
Ramon Marin 13 Sep, 2015 Lead RP It was filthy today, cleaned, showed the moves to Tom. Then send it next go
with Tom le fanu
It was filthy today, cleaned, showed the moves to Tom. Then send it next go
with Tom le fanu
Dave Turnbull, BMC 13 Sep, 2015 Lead RP TR first then fine. Didn't use thread (definitely be tricky to place o/s), or top peg.
with Kasia
TR first then fine. Didn't use thread (definitely be tricky to place o/s), or top peg.
with Kasia
Hidden 13 Sep, 2015 2nd
Sam2257 16 Aug, 2015 TR dog 1st go was desperate. much easier after big brush/clean and a bit of beta. great fun.
with Javis
1st go was desperate. much easier after big brush/clean and a bit of beta. great fun.
with Javis
Javis 16 Aug, 2015 TR
with Sam2257
with Sam2257
Davecapewell 23 Jul, 2015 TR dog
with Mathew, mattfarr
with Mathew, mattfarr
ADConway 2 Jun, 2015 TR dnf
with Dante
with Dante
Tom.Priestley 21 May, 2015 TR rpt Jump is still harrowing as ever, get a mate to abseil and clean if it going for the onsight. The
Jump is still harrowing as ever, get a mate to abseil and clean if it going for the onsight. The
gazhbo 26 Apr, 2015 Lead β On Orange's gear. One pad mono three moves off the ground. Warm up your finger first.
On Orange's gear. One pad mono three moves off the ground. Warm up your finger first.
Ramon Marin 11 Apr, 2015 Lead rpt
with dave pickford
with dave pickford
Dan Arkle ??, 2015 Lead RP
Ramon Marin 23 Oct, 2014 Lead RP Pretty late in the season, fairly wet and crumbly, but send after a toprope. The mono move was evil and i think pulled a tendon, but rock season is over for me so I didn't really care.
with viki harvey
Pretty late in the season, fairly wet and crumbly, but send after a toprope. The mono move was evil and i think pulled a tendon, but rock season is over for me so I didn't really care.
with viki harvey
Adam_42 22 Jun, 2014 Lead RP Beta'd up to the eyeballs but still a big moment for me. First headpoint and of something pretty hard. Really pleased!
Beta'd up to the eyeballs but still a big moment for me. First headpoint and of something pretty hard. Really pleased!
Wil Treasure 21 Jun, 2014 Lead RP
Hidden 13 Jun, 2014 Lead
anguskille 13 Jun, 2014 Lead RP not as go-ey as i thought on the lead it would be, but looking at my logbook i've done it before!
with Rob
not as go-ey as i thought on the lead it would be, but looking at my logbook i've done it before!
with Rob
Ally Smith 1 Jun, 2014 2nd rpt
with alaan
with alaan
alaan 1 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with Ally
with Ally
Hidden 16 May, 2014 2nd
Adam Booth 16 May, 2014 Lead RP Think I've done my finger pulley on the mono move :-(
Think I've done my finger pulley on the mono move :-(
Scott Quinn 5 May, 2014 Lead RP Awesome climbing chuffed to have lead it clean considering I didnt manage a clean tr - pre placed thread still a faff on abb! I could do the upper crux static and im not very tall, still decided to jump on the lead.
Awesome climbing chuffed to have lead it clean considering I didnt manage a clean tr - pre placed thread still a faff on abb! I could do the upper crux static and im not very tall, still decided to jump on the lead.
Ally Smith 4 May, 2014 Lead β On Johnny's gear
On Johnny's gear
morganator 4 May, 2014 Lead dog Tricky stretch for the break then much sandiness but easier. 2 falls before latching the stretch 3rd go.
with Dan Arkle
Tricky stretch for the break then much sandiness but easier. 2 falls before latching the stretch 3rd go.
with Dan Arkle
Tom.Priestley 3 May, 2014 TR dog
PeteWilson 17 Apr, 2014 2nd tough warm up, but cool route, will come back to lead this one
with John P, Andi T, Dave
tough warm up, but cool route, will come back to lead this one
with John P, Andi T, Dave
james.slater 31 Aug, 2013 Lead RP After a couple of short practise sessions and a couple of lead falls from the top crux! Thread was pre-placed but removed afterwards. Lovely moves and good gear! 1st E5
After a couple of short practise sessions and a couple of lead falls from the top crux! Thread was pre-placed but removed afterwards. Lovely moves and good gear! 1st E5
simonsclimbing 31 Aug, 2013 2nd
mark20 25 Aug, 2013 Lead β
Joepenfold 24 Jun, 2013 TR dog
Hidden 24 Jun, 2013 TR dog
Michael Allday 9 Jun, 2013 Lead β
luke384 6 Apr, 2013 Lead RP had quick topy on it, then lead it. sick ass moves all way very snady top. great route!
with Ryan mcconnell
had quick topy on it, then lead it. sick ass moves all way very snady top. great route!
with Ryan mcconnell
sgl0jd ?Mar, 2013 Lead RP
Hidden 13 Jan, 2013 Lead RP
Max Lowry ??, 2013 Lead RP 2nd Attempt.
with KeriV
2nd Attempt.
with KeriV
mikeski 11 Aug, 2012 TR
with alek
with alek
alek 11 Aug, 2012 TR dog
with mikeski
with mikeski
Marti999 8 Aug, 2012 Lead RP
Mark Riley 28 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S 1st trad lead of the year! Should have read up about the thread being a sod to place on lead, didn't have spare energy so wobbled my way up without.
1st trad lead of the year! Should have read up about the thread being a sod to place on lead, didn't have spare energy so wobbled my way up without.
nathanlee 28 Jul, 2012 Lead β Watched people top rope it during the day. Felt steady.
Watched people top rope it during the day. Felt steady.
Si Witcher 28 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S
davidliu 1 Jul, 2012 Lead RP Gear in place
Gear in place
Hidden 1 Jul, 2012 Lead RP
najki_2000 1 Jul, 2012 TR dog the mono crux is still easier than the top slap for the slopey sandy break - much easier for taller
the mono crux is still easier than the top slap for the slopey sandy break - much easier for taller
Cailean Harker 5 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
Mike Goldthorp 5 Jun, 2012 Lead β Abseiled down it to give it a clean and place the thread, then booshed it. Two big awesome crux moves warrant 6b but with good gear and rests in between maybe only E4...
with Giles, Cailean Harker, Ben Norman
Abseiled down it to give it a clean and place the thread, then booshed it. Two big awesome crux moves warrant 6b but with good gear and rests in between maybe only E4...
with Giles, Cailean Harker, Ben Norman
Mattlamb90 29 May, 2012 TR dog
Luke Owens 29 May, 2012 TR dog Did all the moves. Got the upper crux staticly which is way better. Felt easier than "Jump"
with Leon Bowen
Did all the moves. Got the upper crux staticly which is way better. Felt easier than "Jump"
with Leon Bowen
Michael Allday 10 Mar, 2012 TR O/S
with rodney greenfield
with rodney greenfield
Coops_13 28 Oct, 2011 TR dog Very Dynamic
Very Dynamic
Hidden 4 Oct, 2011 TR O/S
Hidden 30 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Jon Garside 30 Jul, 2011 Lead β
Adam Booth 2 Jul, 2011 TR rpt
with Dim Dringo, Roel, Ed Booth
with Dim Dringo, Roel, Ed Booth
Ed Booth 2 Jul, 2011 TR
Hidden 2 Jul, 2011 TR
Harry Thorpe 2 Jun, 2011 TR RP
thetradlad 2 Jun, 2011 TR dog definitely workable! some great jugs just when needed. Very almost got clean
definitely workable! some great jugs just when needed. Very almost got clean
Adam Booth 19 May, 2011 TR O/S Looking forward to leading this one...
Looking forward to leading this one...
Hidden 19 May, 2011 TR dog
Hidden 1 May, 2011 TR β
phil64 ??, 2011 -
Hidden 18 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
frost 18 Sep, 2010 2nd dog
with Rob
with Rob
Alex Mason 1 Sep, 2010 Lead β Was told the thread was desparate to place on lead, so abbed it to find it quite easy to place as the thread is wide. Tried not to look at moves but enevitably saw holds especially in the lower reaches. Found move by peg hard to gain the sandy break.
Was told the thread was desparate to place on lead, so abbed it to find it quite easy to place as the thread is wide. Tried not to look at moves but enevitably saw holds especially in the lower reaches. Found move by peg hard to gain the sandy break.
anguskille 16 Aug, 2010 Lead RP E4 isn't it? pretty nice climbing most of it, but a bit of a two-move wonder, but its a nice route to test your strength a bit
with Dave
E4 isn't it? pretty nice climbing most of it, but a bit of a two-move wonder, but its a nice route to test your strength a bit
with Dave
hamer89 3 Aug, 2010 Lead RP
Rich Kirby 8 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Deserves 3 stars. If you can find and place the totally miss-able thread - E4, without E5.
Deserves 3 stars. If you can find and place the totally miss-able thread - E4, without E5.
monsteratt 26 Jun, 2010 2nd dog
with Morgan Strong Will
with Morgan Strong Will
MorganPreece 26 Jun, 2010 Lead dog Tryed onsight but fell off the last hard move, real sandy! lovely moves lower down like the mono! great route!
with Will
Tryed onsight but fell off the last hard move, real sandy! lovely moves lower down like the mono! great route!
with Will
mark s 20 Jun, 2010 Lead Tried short mans beta on 5-6-10,fluffed it.2 pissed off to try again.did it this time 1st go e4 6a would be closer.
with jon read
Tried short mans beta on 5-6-10,fluffed it.2 pissed off to try again.did it this time 1st go e4 6a would be closer.
with jon read
dominic lee 20 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Jon Read 5 Jun, 2010 2nd Fell off! Did the reach grow in a week??
Fell off! Did the reach grow in a week??
andi turner 31 May, 2010 Lead O/S Nice. Thought more E4 6a, but happy to take the E5 tick :o)
with Jon Read
Nice. Thought more E4 6a, but happy to take the E5 tick :o)
with Jon Read
Jon Read 31 May, 2010 Lead β With Andi's gear in place. Finished direct.
With Andi's gear in place. Finished direct.
MikeYouCanClimb 13 Jun, 2009 Lead RP
with Patrick
with Patrick
lukea 10 May, 2009 TR rpt
with Al
with Al
phil64 ?Apr, 2009 Lead O/S Pretty easy for E5 . Only E4 if your honest, Marlene is much more serious and harder and that's ok for E4
Pretty easy for E5 . Only E4 if your honest, Marlene is much more serious and harder and that's ok for E4
Gus ??, 2009 Lead β
with adam long, Rob Clifton
with adam long, Rob Clifton
Hidden ?Nov, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Oct, 2008 TR dog
smallerrich 28 Jul, 2008 Lead RP I love the moves on this climb, good protection as well.
I love the moves on this climb, good protection as well.
Ed Booth ?Oct, 2007 Lead RP I had tried this route on top rope a while back but never did it one. After belaying Ben do it and a few more years of getting better, i just went for it anyway. Pretty soft E5. Maybe tough E4. One punchy move with a mono. Best thread at Nesscliffe if you find it . . .
with Ben Heason
I had tried this route on top rope a while back but never did it one. After belaying Ben do it and a few more years of getting better, i just went for it anyway. Pretty soft E5. Maybe tough E4. One punchy move with a mono. Best thread at Nesscliffe if you find it . . .
with Ben Heason
Hidden 8 Sep, 2007 Lead β
Hidden ?May, 2007 Lead O/S
Martin Cleaver ??, 2007 Lead RP
Hidden ?Aug, 2006 TR
Hidden ??, 2005 Lead RP
pete johnson 3 Jul, 2004 -
with Rob
with Rob
Hidden ??, 2001 Lead RP
lost.arrow 18 Jun, 2000 -
lost.arrow 7 Aug, 1998 TR
smudge 7 Aug, 1998 TR O/S
Hidden 27 Jun, 1995 TR RP
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 35
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set