40m.
Fantastic climbing up a steeper-than-it-appears 90 degree corner with nice laybacking and smearing until the rock quality suddenly deteriorates.
Access: walk most of the way down Son Kul canyon. Middle Earth is the middle corner up a laid back wall on the left, starting from a small meadow about 4m above the road. Scramble up the steep earth bank and then up to the corner.
1. 40m 5b. Climb the obvious middle corner to where the crack widens at a small overhang. Either continue up the wide crack or swing left and climb the shallow groove. Either way the rock deteriorates and a belay can be made at the base of the red continuation corner. In situ wire and chockstone thread provides an abseil point.
Access: walk most of the way down Son Kul canyon. Middle Earth is the middle corner up a laid back wall on the left, starting from a small meadow about 4m above the road. Scramble up the steep earth bank and then up to the corner.
1. 40m 5b. Climb the obvious middle corner to where the crack widens at a small overhang. Either continue up the wide crack or swing left and climb the shallow groove. Either way the rock deteriorates and a belay can be made at the base of the red continuation corner. In situ wire and chockstone thread provides an abseil point.
Geoff Hornby/David Barlow 2009.
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