420m, 11 pitches. A classic meandering line, best climbed after a few dry days and with good visibility. Start near the bottom of Minus One Gully and scramble up right for 60m until roughly half way between Minus One Gully and Zero Gully. This brings you to a point left of some overhangs 70m up and at the base of a wide slabby rib, underneath a more defined rib (Great Slab Rib) which has a white speckled sidewall to the left.
1. 45m 4a Climb the slabby rib on the crest or left hand side to a stance.
2. 30m 4b Traverse right onto the rib and climb this via parallel cracks to a small grassy ledge.
There now follows a long rising traverse up and right for about 100m across The Basin, mostly moving together except for a couple of moves up grooves to the base of the Second Slab Rib.
3. 40m 4b Climb the slab on the left edge avoiding a steepening by a detour left (4c direct). At the top of the slab move slightly right over clean rock trusting the holds until a small hanging slab is gained and belay above.
Now take a left rising traverse up ribs and corners passing behind a large block for about 50m until at the bottom right hand side of a large slab.
Take another left rising traverse for about 50m across the bottom of a series of slabs via cracks and corners.
Go up by a mossy corner to a large mossy terrace below the final headwall.
Either step down right from the terrace and climb flakes to easy ground (looks dirty but holds are clean) OR
Traverse easily left to the foot of the 40ft Corner and finish up North East Buttress.

JHB Bell, JDB Wilson 14/Jun/1940

Ticklists

Classic Rock, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch, Scottish Classic Rock, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, MIA logbook must haves!, Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!), The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Big Routes, The Great Gumclub Ticklist, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, BoC Scottish Summer, Rab 'Pocket a Prize' Competition: Cal's 'Alpine Feel' Climbs, Scottish Rock Benchmarks

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 13 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Webster 5 Jul, 2017 AltLd dnf Utter shite... barely a 1* section of rock on it let alone 3*, and 99% of it is loose, wet and dirty choss... route finding is very tricky, especially up high. got benighted, spent a few hours of shiver bivying above the crux second slab rib before rain came. continued on up tired, hungry, cold, wet and exhausted for a few pitches of waterfall climbing on muddy choss before needing a rescue from the excellent Lochaber MR team. would not recommend.
Utter shite... barely a 1* section of rock on it let alone 3*, and 99% of it is loose, wet and dirty choss... route finding is very tricky, especially up high. got benighted, spent a few hours of shiver bivying above the crux second slab rib before rain came. continued on up tired, hungry, cold, wet and exhausted for a few pitches of waterfall climbing on muddy choss before needing a rescue from the excellent Lochaber MR team. would not recommend.
FlamehairedFrodo 5 Jul, 2017 2nd dnf Many lessons learnt. Very humbling experience.
Many lessons learnt. Very humbling experience.
chmckay ??, 2017 AltLd O/S
Ids1165 ??, 2017 AltLd
spenser 8 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S Well, that was a HUGE epic. Loose rock, sparse gear, evidence of a very serious accident. Easily my most challenging (and longest) day in the mountains to date. Accidentally trundled some big blocks (largest about 4 times my size) from top of last pitch, surprised to realise I was still alive, as was my belayer, after doing so.
with Mark Piercy
Well, that was a HUGE epic. Loose rock, sparse gear, evidence of a very serious accident. Easily my most challenging (and longest) day in the mountains to date. Accidentally trundled some big blocks (largest about 4 times my size) from top of last pitch, surprised to realise I was still alive, as was my belayer, after doing so.
with Mark Piercy
Arty 10 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S dry, took a long time, original finish better than looks from a few pitches away
with Carmel
dry, took a long time, original finish better than looks from a few pitches away
with Carmel
Hidden 18 Aug, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 18 Aug, 2015 AltLd
AliceKerr ?Jun, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 14 Sep, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 3 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Captain Solo 22 Jul, 2014 Solo rpt With 4c variations. First slab rib approach a bit greasy up the right hand groove, better on the left. Second slab rib excellent.
With 4c variations. First slab rib approach a bit greasy up the right hand groove, better on the left. Second slab rib excellent.
Captain Solo 30 Jun, 2014 Solo Even better than I had dreamed of, bone dry and never harder than 4b. A long time coming but well worth the wait, interesting approach at the moment!
Even better than I had dreamed of, bone dry and never harder than 4b. A long time coming but well worth the wait, interesting approach at the moment!
Matthew Martin Wsm 16 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S fantastic climbing most of the way, grade about right, long route and pretty serious, was,nt loads of gear, few pitons and tat higher up,done in 6 hours 30 mins, glad to get another classic tick!
with dave kenyon
fantastic climbing most of the way, grade about right, long route and pretty serious, was,nt loads of gear, few pitons and tat higher up,done in 6 hours 30 mins, glad to get another classic tick!
with dave kenyon
mjackson 15 Jun, 2014 -
Graham Westbrook 15 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Massive climb with a long snow approach. Had to jump off the bergschrund to get on to the rock. Mostly dry. Brilliant day out.
Massive climb with a long snow approach. Had to jump off the bergschrund to get on to the rock. Mostly dry. Brilliant day out.
mattkemp70 ?Jun, 2014 Lead
with Westy
with Westy
Hidden ??, 2014 AltLd
James Thacker ??, 2014 -
Gawyllie 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with Steve Appleyard
with Steve Appleyard
Doc A 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd Climbed this on the same day as the chaps below and I have to say that we had a very different experience. Route finding was tricky but not impossible. The 2nd and 3rd pitches were excellent - dry grippy rock, loved the twin cracks. The easier climbing didn't really materialise but at least three pitches could be tackled by moving together rather than pitching to save time. It still took us 8 hours though. Hardly Uli Steck stuff!
with Graham Wylie
Climbed this on the same day as the chaps below and I have to say that we had a very different experience. Route finding was tricky but not impossible. The 2nd and 3rd pitches were excellent - dry grippy rock, loved the twin cracks. The easier climbing didn't really materialise but at least three pitches could be tackled by moving together rather than pitching to save time. It still took us 8 hours though. Hardly Uli Steck stuff!
with Graham Wylie
beds74 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd In a word....shite! Bad holds, hard route finding, E2 gear, loose, wet in places, mossy, not a decent hold on the route! Unmemorable moves, not a decent pitch. Did it for the Classic Rock tick.... Good bits...topping out on the Ben, the views, climbing on the North face, fantastic weather, ending. Would not recommend!
with Ray Sparks
In a word....shite! Bad holds, hard route finding, E2 gear, loose, wet in places, mossy, not a decent hold on the route! Unmemorable moves, not a decent pitch. Did it for the Classic Rock tick.... Good bits...topping out on the Ben, the views, climbing on the North face, fantastic weather, ending. Would not recommend!
with Ray Sparks
Ray Sparks 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with beds74
with beds74
sprout3099 12 Jun, 2013 - Damn book sent us the wrong way after p7, great until then. Fear, rockfall and sketchy escape to observatory ridge ensued.
with Becky Wood
Damn book sent us the wrong way after p7, great until then. Fear, rockfall and sketchy escape to observatory ridge ensued.
with Becky Wood
olekemi 8 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Excellent alpine way up the Orion Face, including a chossy, wet, snow-patchy, and loose route with complex routefinding. First ascent of the year?
with Sam S
Excellent alpine way up the Orion Face, including a chossy, wet, snow-patchy, and loose route with complex routefinding. First ascent of the year?
with Sam S
TheAndyBarker ??, 2013 -
Patzl ??, 2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??, 2012 -
Narked4fun ??, 2012 -
Steven Carter ??, 2012 Lead O/S
Patzl ??, 2012 -
Jim Tan 28 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Pete Rigby ?Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Jim Tan
with Jim Tan
Hidden ??, 2011 -
drew8connelly ??, 2011 -
drew8connelly ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2011 -
SianR 25 Aug, 2010 2nd
with Jonnie
with Jonnie
jonnie3430 25 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S An aptly named route. The 4b second rib seemed punchy, even given 4c for the direct. I don't know where you go to finish that pitch, I ended up only (it was wet,) being able to traverse to the big ledge to the left, but found the route by traversing high and back right again, so there must be some way. The "easier climbing," of the final three pitches never materialised, there are many options and time is required to explore to find a do-able one. Good route, but tough.
with Sian
An aptly named route. The 4b second rib seemed punchy, even given 4c for the direct. I don't know where you go to finish that pitch, I ended up only (it was wet,) being able to traverse to the big ledge to the left, but found the route by traversing high and back right again, so there must be some way. The "easier climbing," of the final three pitches never materialised, there are many options and time is required to explore to find a do-able one. Good route, but tough.
with Sian
jimorothy 12 Jun, 2010 Lead Very intimidating, very long, so long we missed the England match! Route finding very hard above Second Slab Rib, climbed some hard stuff on and around third slab. Swirling cloud, scary snow approach, slimy rock, some sensational pitches and a magnificent way for us to finish our Classic Rock ticks.
with Rachel Crolla
Very intimidating, very long, so long we missed the England match! Route finding very hard above Second Slab Rib, climbed some hard stuff on and around third slab. Swirling cloud, scary snow approach, slimy rock, some sensational pitches and a magnificent way for us to finish our Classic Rock ticks.
with Rachel Crolla
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Harry Ellis 13 Sep, 2009 AltLd
with Scott Kirkhope
with Scott Kirkhope
Hidden 9 Aug, 2009 Lead
BRUCESTRAC ??, 2009 -
jamieevans ?Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
Euan Strachan ?Sep, 2008 -
tom.ireson ?Jul, 2008 Lead dnf Grim weather, absolutely soaked by top of first pitch. Got to third pitch and bailed.
with Jens Verhagh
Grim weather, absolutely soaked by top of first pitch. Got to third pitch and bailed.
with Jens Verhagh
ewan i ??, 2008 AltLd dnf
Hidden ??, 2008 -
TrollJester ??, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Bruce A Strachan
with Bruce A Strachan
bomberharris 19 Jun, 2007 2nd O/S What a fantastic route on a beautiful day. Best multi pitch climb i've done to date.
with Lee
What a fantastic route on a beautiful day. Best multi pitch climb i've done to date.
with Lee
Hidden ?Jun, 2007 AltLd
Hidden ?Jun, 2007 AltLd O/S
alan wilson ??, 2007 -
Jez ?Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
maybe_si ?Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
with jez
with jez
Hidden 1 Jul, 2006 AltLd
el diablo 1 Jul, 2006 AltLd
with JimSh
with JimSh
Hidden 6 Jun, 2005 AltLd
Hidden 1 May, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2004 AltLd
Hidden ?Apr, 2004 -
Nevis_Ben 16 Jun, 2003 2nd O/S Rainy and slippy. Spent a lot of time wondering where the route was supposed to go around pitch 8/9. Fantastic climb, well worth it.
Rainy and slippy. Spent a lot of time wondering where the route was supposed to go around pitch 8/9. Fantastic climb, well worth it.
Hidden 25 Jul, 2001 AltLd O/S
luckyjim ?Aug, 2000 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2000 -
DaveHK 7 Aug, 1999 AltLd
with Brian Dickson, Gavin Rees
with Brian Dickson, Gavin Rees
brianrunner ?Jul, 1999 AltLd
with dave kerr
with dave kerr
luckyjim 2 Jun, 1997 AltLd
Hidden 2 Jun, 1997 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 1996 2nd O/S
Sean Kelly ?Jul, 1996 Lead dnf Started up very early, the first pitch in steady rain. The water was running down my sleeves. What the hell was I doing here? We bailed, but climbed up to the summit via the abseil posts. On top for 8am. Another thoroughly miserable day!
with Harold Jepson
Started up very early, the first pitch in steady rain. The water was running down my sleeves. What the hell was I doing here? We bailed, but climbed up to the summit via the abseil posts. On top for 8am. Another thoroughly miserable day!
with Harold Jepson
Hidden 19 Sep, 1995 Solo O/S
Tenko ?Jun, 1993 AltLd O/S First ever visit to Scotland with Ben Nevis and CMD via arete from the road and back in a long day.
with Kev Wilson
First ever visit to Scotland with Ben Nevis and CMD via arete from the road and back in a long day.
with Kev Wilson
mark mcgowan01 ??, 1992 -
with Ian Haliday
with Ian Haliday
Hidden ??, 1992 AltLd
Neil Henderson ?Sep, 1991 Solo Aborted Attempt, abbed off in high wind and rain
with Billy webster
Aborted Attempt, abbed off in high wind and rain
with Billy webster
babymoac 7 Jul, 1991 Lead
with Howard
with Howard
Nigel Bond 28 May, 1987 Lead
with Martin Cash
with Martin Cash
Hidden ?May, 1987 AltLd
John HW ?Apr, 1986 AltLd
biggianthead 9 Jul, 1983 -
with HT
with HT
Rob Davies ?Sep, 1981 AltLd Date? Climbed as 2 pairs. Top section feels almost Alpine.
with Roy Lindsay, Jack Brindle, Mike Papworth
Date? Climbed as 2 pairs. Top section feels almost Alpine.
with Roy Lindsay, Jack Brindle, Mike Papworth
Lone Rider 13 Aug, 1977 AltLd
uphillnow ?Aug, 1970 Solo Very hot, rock boots and shorts. Most of route technically easy for grade. A quick trip off the week before I got married. Walked up, pitched the tent and had a meal, then decided to do a route. Weather broke the next day so all the effort of packing a weeks food and camping stuff up was wasted - could have walked up light. In the company of Jim Williams
with jim williams
Very hot, rock boots and shorts. Most of route technically easy for grade. A quick trip off the week before I got married. Walked up, pitched the tent and had a meal, then decided to do a route. Weather broke the next day so all the effort of packing a weeks food and camping stuff up was wasted - could have walked up light. In the company of Jim Williams
with jim williams
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Votes cast 13
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