420m, 11 pitches. A classic meandering line, best climbed after a few dry days and with good visibility. Start near the bottom of Minus One Gully and scramble up right for 60m until roughly half way between Minus One Gully and Zero Gully. This brings you to a point left of some overhangs 70m up and at the base of a wide slabby rib, underneath a more defined rib (Great Slab Rib) which has a white speckled sidewall to the left.
1. 45m 4a Climb the slabby rib on the crest or left hand side to a stance.
2. 30m 4b Traverse right onto the rib and climb this via parallel cracks to a small grassy ledge.
There now follows a long rising traverse up and right for about 100m across The Basin, mostly moving together except for a couple of moves up grooves to the base of the Second Slab Rib.
3. 40m 4b Climb the slab on the left edge avoiding a steepening by a detour left (4c direct). At the top of the slab move slightly right over clean rock trusting the holds until a small hanging slab is gained and belay above.
Now take a left rising traverse up ribs and corners passing behind a large block for about 50m until at the bottom right hand side of a large slab.
Take another left rising traverse for about 50m across the bottom of a series of slabs via cracks and corners.
Go up by a mossy corner to a large mossy terrace below the final headwall.
Either step down right from the terrace and climb flakes to easy ground (looks dirty but holds are clean) OR
Traverse easily left to the foot of the 40ft Corner and finish up North East Buttress.

JHB Bell, JDB Wilson 14/Jun/1940

Ticklists: Classic Rock, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, MIA logbook must haves!, Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!), The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Great Gumclub Ticklist, The Original 'Classic Rock' List.

Webster 05/Jul AltLd dnf

Utter shite... barely a 1* section of rock on it let alone 3*, and 99% of it is loose, wet and dirty choss... route finding is very tricky, especially up high. got benighted, spent a few hours of shiver bivying above the crux second slab rib before rain came. continued on up tired, hungry, cold, wet and exhausted for a few pitches of waterfall climbing on muddy choss before needing a rescue from the excellent Lochaber MR team. would not recommend.

chmckay ??/2017 AltLd O/S
Ids1165 ??/2017 AltLd
spenser 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Well, that was a HUGE epic. Loose rock, sparse gear, evidence of a very serious accident. Easily my most challenging (and longest) day in the mountains to date. Accidentally trundled some big blocks (largest about 4 times my size) from top of last pitch, surprised to realise I was still alive, as was my belayer, after doing so.

with Mark Piercy
timmsy 10/Sep/15 Lead O/S

dry, took a long time, original finish better than looks from a few pitches away

with Carmel
Hidden 18/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 18/Aug/15 AltLd
AliceKerr ?/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden 14/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Captain Solo 22/Jul/14 Solo rpt

With 4c variations. First slab rib approach a bit greasy up the right hand groove, better on the left. Second slab rib excellent.

Captain Solo 30/Jun/14 Solo

Even better than I had dreamed of, bone dry and never harder than 4b. A long time coming but well worth the wait, interesting approach at the moment!

Matthew Martin Wsm 16/Jun/14 2nd O/S

fantastic climbing most of the way, grade about right, long route and pretty serious, was,nt loads of gear, few pitons and tat higher up,done in 6 hours 30 mins, glad to get another classic tick!

with dave kenyon
mjackson 15/Jun/14 -
Graham Westbrook 15/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Massive climb with a long snow approach. Had to jump off the bergschrund to get on to the rock. Mostly dry. Brilliant day out.

mattkemp70 ?/Jun/14 Lead
with Westy
Hidden ??/2014 AltLd
James Thacker ??/2014 -
Gawyllie 20/Jul/13 AltLd
with Steve Appleyard
Doc A 20/Jul/13 AltLd

Climbed this on the same day as the chaps below and I have to say that we had a very different experience. Route finding was tricky but not impossible. The 2nd and 3rd pitches were excellent - dry grippy rock, loved the twin cracks. The easier climbing didn't really materialise but at least three pitches could be tackled by moving together rather than pitching to save time. It still took us 8 hours though. Hardly Uli Steck stuff!

with Graham Wylie
beds74 20/Jul/13 AltLd

In a word....shite! Bad holds, hard route finding, E2 gear, loose, wet in places, mossy, not a decent hold on the route! Unmemorable moves, not a decent pitch. Did it for the Classic Rock tick.... Good bits...topping out on the Ben, the views, climbing on the North face, fantastic weather, ending. Would not recommend!

with Ray Sparks
Ray Sparks 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with paul
sprout3099 12/Jun/13 -

Damn book sent us the wrong way after p7, great until then. Fear, rockfall and sketchy escape to observatory ridge ensued.

with Becky Wood
olekemi 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Excellent alpine way up the Orion Face, including a chossy, wet, snow-patchy, and loose route with complex routefinding. First ascent of the year?

with Sam S
TheAndyBarker ??/2013 -
Patzl ??/2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2012 -
Narked4fun ??/2012 -
Steven Carter ??/2012 Lead O/S
Patzl ??/2012 -
Jim Tan 28/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Pete Rigby ?/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Jim Tan
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
SianR 25/Aug/10 2nd
with Jonnie
jonnie3430 25/Aug/10 Lead O/S

An aptly named route. The 4b second rib seemed punchy, even given 4c for the direct. I don't know where you go to finish that pitch, I ended up only (it was wet,) being able to traverse to the big ledge to the left, but found the route by traversing high and back right again, so there must be some way. The "easier climbing," of the final three pitches never materialised, there are many options and time is required to explore to find a do-able one. Good route, but tough.

with Sian
jimorothy 12/Jun/10 Lead

Very intimidating, very long, so long we missed the England match! Route finding very hard above Second Slab Rib, climbed some hard stuff on and around third slab. Swirling cloud, scary snow approach, slimy rock, some sensational pitches and a magnificent way for us to finish our Classic Rock ticks.

with Rachel Crolla
Hidden ??/2010 -
Harry Ellis 13/Sep/09 AltLd
with Scott Kirkhope
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 -
jamieevans ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Euan Strachan ?/Sep/08 -
tom.ireson ?/Jul/08 Lead dnf

Grim weather, absolutely soaked by top of first pitch. Got to third pitch and bailed.

with Jens Verhagh
ewan i ??/2008 AltLd dnf
Hidden ??/2008 -
TrollJester ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with Bruce A Strachan
bomberharris 19/Jun/07 2nd O/S

What a fantastic route on a beautiful day. Best multi pitch climb i've done to date.

with Lee
Hidden ?/Jun/07 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
alan wilson ??/2007 -
Jez ?/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
maybe_si ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with jez
Hidden 01/Jul/06 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jun/05 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/04 AltLd
Hidden ?/Apr/04 -
Nevis_Ben 16/Jun/03 2nd O/S

Rainy and slippy. Spent a lot of time wondering where the route was supposed to go around pitch 8/9. Fantastic climb, well worth it.

A Crook 25/Jul/01 AltLd O/S

9hrs of climbing across wet rocks/mud and grass

with Sam
luckyjim ?/Aug/00 AltLd
Hidden ??/2000 -
Dave Kerr 07/Aug/99 AltLd
with Brian Dickson, Gavin Rees
brianrunner ?/Jul/99 AltLd
with dave kerr
luckyjim 02/Jun/97 AltLd
Hidden 02/Jun/97 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/96 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/95 Solo O/S
Tenko ?/Jun/93 AltLd O/S

First ever visit to Scotland with Ben Nevis and CMD via arete from the road and back in a long day.

with Kev Wilson
mark mcgowan01 ??/1992 -
with Ian Haliday
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
Neil Henderson ?/Sep/91 Solo

Aborted Attempt, abbed off in high wind and rain

with Billy webster
babymoac 07/Jul/91 Lead
with Howard
Nigel Bond 28/May/87 Lead
with Martin Cash
Hidden ?/May/87 AltLd
John HW ?/Apr/86 AltLd
biggianthead 09/Jul/83 -
with HT
Rob Davies ?/Sep/81 AltLd

Date? Climbed as 2 pairs. Top section feels almost Alpine.

with Roy Lindsay, Jack Brindle, Mike Papworth
Lone Rider 13/Aug/77 AltLd
uphillnow ?/Aug/70 Solo

Very hot, rock boots and shorts. Most of route technically easy for grade. A quick trip off the week before I got married. Accompanied by Jim Williams. Weather broke the next day so all the effort of packing a weeks food and camping stuff up was wasted - could have walked up light.

with jim williams
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