For reference, climbed in 4 pitches, hopefully this description helps others.

P1, 50m, Climb the lowest right facing groove at the base of the buttress (just inside Douglas Gibson gully) until easier ground and another right facing corner takes you up the buttress.

P2, 50m, Move on to the crest of the buttress and continue up until a step right can be made in to the base of a steep left facing corner. Continue up this and then towards the crest by the left groove, thread and spike belay just below the crest.

P3, 50m, Head for the crest right below the tower, where there is good exposure looking down in to Douglas Gibson. Approach either by continuing up from the belay and moving over the big flakes or by stepping right from the belay in to the first left slanting corner. From the crest step & reach over to a shallow groove on the tower and pull on to the tower face (difficult under powder since there is a slab for feet). Continue up the face of the tower heading for the sentry box (trending a little right then left). Pull with difficulty in to the sentry box. The sentry box is a bit tight for a winter belay and the crampon/face risk is high so continue up and out on to the ridge proper. Continue along the exposed ridge (for 20m) until it begins to steepen again and belay here. Note that the “groove on the right” at the base of tower in the guide book is not the groove round the right hand face of the tower, the route tackles the tower direct.

P4, 60m, from the belay move up and round in to a steep left facing corner, continue up following the line of the ridge until another final right facing corner leads up right to the summit.

M. Mcghie

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers, 3 star Scottish winter, Mid-Grade Scottish Winter, The Great Gumclub Ticklist, Scottish Winter IV-VI.

James Gordon ??/2018 -
Simon McCabe 22/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
with Giles Trussel, Pete WS
Hidden ??/2017 -
Craig Holden 18/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Great weather but tough conditions. Powdery poor snow, nearly came off searching for hooks! 5 Pitches.

with Jake Dowell
stuart34 12/Feb/16 AltLd dnf

couldnt get through the? crux a crux? good effort from erik though raped the route sort of

with fat erik
ErikAndersen 12/Feb/16 AltLd dnf

Big day! Great climbing but totally buried, with good protection in the tricky parts, but bold in easier sections. Got to the 'airy knife edge' at the end of p3/start of p4 and fell off into empty space above the douglas-gibson gully (exposure!) when my axes ripped through the soft snow over the top of the short steep wall. Tried a right trending variation on torques but fell off that as well, this time landing on the slab (ow). Abbed off then due to darkness/wild conditions. Had to spend the night in the car since it was totally snowed in. Big adventure! 15hrs C2C.

with Stu
olekemi 10/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

In 4 pitches. Jeremy led the crux p3, but all have considerable interest and proper hard climbing, perhaps exaggerated by the current conditions with lots of cruddy snow and hardly any neve, especially where neve would have been rather welcome. Hard, but thoroughly enjoyable and memorable. Climb of the season?

with Jeremy M
Hidden 15/Dec/14 AltLd
Tim_Gomersall 15/Dec/14 AltLd
with Callum johnson
glencoebob 11/Oct/14 AltLd

Epic climb. Very greasy in the wet and some awkward/ungraceful moves on pitches 3 and 5. Took us longer than expected, probably done to phaffing

saintlade ??/2014 -
Uisdean hawthorn 10/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/13 AltLd
michael83 24/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Feb/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 22/Feb/13 AltLd
AC1 ??/2013 -
Johnny Baker 07/Feb/12 AltLd

Powder day on the ridge. A yard broom would have been a useful third tool. Continually good climbing with three very steep sections proving desperate to hook over in the powder. Gear good.

with Sam Richards
davebrox ?/Feb/12 Lead

With military group before India exped

Dave Almond 26/Jan/12 AltLd

Bmc international meet

with Marchello Sanguineti
James Smith 24/Jan/12 AltLd

epic doesnt even begin to describe this day. 20 hours van to van, 14 on the climb. first VI for all of us, a lot of powder on the route to clear and i took 1 fall leading the crux after i failed to find the good hook in the powder (found it second go). also fell leading the last pitch due to dodgy kit (enough said for now about that), landed badly on my shoulder and had to prussic up the last pitch. topped out at 1am into a raging storm, back at the van at 3 and back at the house at 5am. long day!

with stu, sam
Hidden ??/2012 -
bradill 29/Apr/11 Lead

Climbed with A. Field. Great day out. Surprise snow field getting to the 1st pitch!

JdotP 12/Feb/11 2nd O/S

I was Ondrej's belay bunny...

with Ondrej Mandula
Adam Booth 21/Jan/11 Lead O/S
gowla 21/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

led pitch 2

with adam booth
Hidden 05/Jan/11 Lead
alkira ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
jamestheyip 04/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

A bit dry in places but neve was quite hard. Both crux pitches were excellent!

with Carlos
Pete Graham 19/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Luke Porter
Cardi 19/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Very fat. Snow not always consolidated. Glad to 2nd the crux pitch!

with Tom R
mulletcocktail2000 14/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

classic! get's ore interesting (harder) with height then the tower is reached. lots of tech 6 climbing here! awesome exposure from the tower on! not for the faint hearted.

with andy
Andy Moles 14/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Adam
Hidden 14/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
gforce 31/Jan/10 AltLd

More snow on this side of the corrie than on the Pinnacle - made it quite hard going in places. Fell off the hard wall above the knife-edge, but got it second go once I had cleared a bit more snow.

with Simon
Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd
ShaneHoubart ?/May/09 AltLd
mike fenwick ?/Mar/09 AltLd
with Ben Pearce
robinsi197 ?/Mar/09 AltLd dnf

Not quite winter, not quite summer. Wet snow loosely attached to rock. Turned round below crux pitch.

with Nick
Neil Adams 14/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

A heck of a day! Knackering trail-breaking on the way in, a big route, and an exhausted stagger back out. Went a bit off route on P4 and ended up on pretty sketchy ground.

with Ally F
Alasdair Fulton 14/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

4hr wade to get there. Good conditions on route - crux was steep, but never desperate. Neil had a seriously sketchy "moment" while slightly off route!

hwackerhage 01/Feb/09 Lead

Behind two other teams. Second's head torch did not work so 'working' the summer crux in the darkness was exciting for him and the belayer!

with Trias
sgl 01/Feb/09 AltLd
with gaz
gaz.marshall 01/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
with sam
Hidden 09/Mar/08 AltLd β
s kennedy 09/Mar/08 AltLd β
with mark mosgrove
Hidden ??/2008 -
smac ??/2008 -
samrcowie ?/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with pete and tom buck
mux ??/2007 -
with Simon Frost , Neil Griffiths
frost ??/2007 AltLd
with D Garry N Griffiths
NeilGriffiths ??/2007 AltLd

A grand day out.

with Dave Garry, Simon Frost
Smelly Fox ?/Jan/06 AltLd dnf

Came down just before the tower. Very slow progress with lots of powder to clear.

with Matt Croll
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd dnf
MarkDavies36 ??/2003 AltLd O/S
with Richard Bentley
Malcolm Bass ?/Feb/01 AltLd
with John Macfarlane, Paul Figg
Paul Figg ?/Feb/01 AltLd
Hidden ??/2001 AltLd O/S
Dave Almond ?/Mar/00 AltLd

started route at 1.30pm in very heavy snowy partner fell off the crux landing on his bum on the knife edge.sore.i lead through and we topped out in the dark with snow falling, no maps and never been there before.very exciting.

Graham Kennedy 01/Aug/98 2nd

Summer route - S

with Andrew Porter
Andy Clark 06/Mar/98 AltLd
with Burnsie
Hidden 06/Mar/98 AltLd O/S
Smith42 07/Feb/98 AltLd O/S
phardman 09/Feb/97 AltLd O/S

Best winter route ever?

with Muir Morton
QuicNic ??/1997 AltLd

Lovely day and good conditions. Toughest winter climb I've done. My mate had a fall from the first crux so I took it on. Only just managed the second crux. Great climbing!

nickdonohue 29/Mar/96 AltLd
with Caley Latham
phardman ?/Feb/96 -
switch ?/Feb/96 AltLd
Ollie Clem ?/Jan/96 AltLd dnf

Another epic. Heavy snow breaking trail in, avalanches down the gully's all day. No water. Blind ally followed above the whaleback. Ab off and very shaky walk out. Great day!

Dave Musgrove Jnr 18/Feb/95 AltLd

Brilliant. Possibly best Scottish Winter experience

with Chris Ranner
pauldrew ??/1995 AltLd
with Julian Cox
mark-abz 17/Apr/94 Lead
with Tom O
FrankW ?/Mar/94 AltLd O/S
with Andy R
john irving ??/1991 -

1st V. Dropped axe pitch 3. Martin dropped huge snowlump from tower onto JA head. Cunning variation at summer crux

with Jamie Andrew, Rich Davies
Hidden ?/Apr/88 AltLd
charlesmfrench 12/Mar/88 AltLd O/S


with Keith Milne, Ian Milne
Neil McA 02/Jan/85 AltLd dnf

Failed 3 pitches up under heavy powder

with Andy Scrase
The Bronze 15/Feb/83 AltLd O/S

Excellent route, grade 5 at the time, lead top pitch, toped out in the dark, great day out, memorable.

with M.Hair
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