For reference, climbed in 4 pitches, hopefully this description helps others.

P1, 50m, Climb the lowest right facing groove at the base of the buttress (just inside Douglas Gibson gully) until easier ground and another right facing corner takes you up the buttress.

P2, 50m, Move on to the crest of the buttress and continue up until a step right can be made in to the base of a steep left facing corner. Continue up this and then towards the crest by the left groove, thread and spike belay just below the crest.

P3, 50m, Head for the crest right below the tower, where there is good exposure looking down in to Douglas Gibson. Approach either by continuing up from the belay and moving over the big flakes or by stepping right from the belay in to the first left slanting corner. From the crest step & reach over to a shallow groove on the tower and pull on to the tower face (difficult under powder since there is a slab for feet). Continue up the face of the tower heading for the sentry box (trending a little right then left). Pull with difficulty in to the sentry box. The sentry box is a bit tight for a winter belay and the crampon/face risk is high so continue up and out on to the ridge proper. Continue along the exposed ridge (for 20m) until it begins to steepen again and belay here. Note that the “groove on the right” at the base of tower in the guide book is not the groove round the right hand face of the tower, the route tackles the tower direct.

P4, 60m, from the belay move up and round in to a steep left facing corner, continue up following the line of the ridge until another final right facing corner leads up right to the summit.

M. Mcghie

Ticklists

Cold Climbs, In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers, 3 star Scottish winter, Scottish Winter IV-VII, The Great Gumclub Ticklist, Cold Climbs (slimmed down)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
murray 16 Mar AltLd dnf Sooo much powder!
Sooo much powder!
WillHempstead 16 Mar AltLd dnf A foot of powder with no neve or ice. I did one 50m pitch up collapsing powder, which looked around III but felt like a desperate V. Should have swapped the axes for a shovel. I imagine it would be an excellent route with good neve build up, deffo one to wait for really good conditions. Dont fall into the trap!!
with murray
A foot of powder with no neve or ice. I did one 50m pitch up collapsing powder, which looked around III but felt like a desperate V. Should have swapped the axes for a shovel. I imagine it would be an excellent route with good neve build up, deffo one to wait for really good conditions. Dont fall into the trap!!
with murray
alexm198 3 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S Challenging conditions with a complete dearth of useful ice/neve, just hollow icy crust and bottomless sugar underneath. Maybe in good conditions it's great but it just didn't feel like a 4-star classic to me. Some bizarre insecure mantels onto bulges on the crux (P3) and a couple of psychologically taxing pitches of almost protectionless climbing on compact rock covered in unconsolidated snow (P2 and 4). In 4 pitches, led evens.
Challenging conditions with a complete dearth of useful ice/neve, just hollow icy crust and bottomless sugar underneath. Maybe in good conditions it's great but it just didn't feel like a 4-star classic to me. Some bizarre insecure mantels onto bulges on the crux (P3) and a couple of psychologically taxing pitches of almost protectionless climbing on compact rock covered in unconsolidated snow (P2 and 4). In 4 pitches, led evens.
Matt Harle 3 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S Lots of unhelpful sugary snow made for a thrutchy and insecure experience. Thought Alex was a goner for sure on the last pitch but he levitated above the crumbling snowpack to victory!
Lots of unhelpful sugary snow made for a thrutchy and insecure experience. Thought Alex was a goner for sure on the last pitch but he levitated above the crumbling snowpack to victory!
davkeo 29 Jan, 2018 AltLd Crap conditions with thick crud ice & useless snow. A great mountaineering adventure all the same and still enjoyable, sort of. Led 1&3. 12.5hr round trip. I can just imagine how good this would be with a well consolidated snowpack. A reason to go and do it again sometime.
Crap conditions with thick crud ice & useless snow. A great mountaineering adventure all the same and still enjoyable, sort of. Led 1&3. 12.5hr round trip. I can just imagine how good this would be with a well consolidated snowpack. A reason to go and do it again sometime.
Hidden 29 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
Simon McCabe 22 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Giles Trussel, Pete WS
with Giles Trussel, Pete WS
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Craig Holden 18 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S Great weather but tough conditions. Powdery poor snow, nearly came off searching for hooks! 5 Pitches.
with Jake Dowell
Great weather but tough conditions. Powdery poor snow, nearly came off searching for hooks! 5 Pitches.
with Jake Dowell
stuart34 12 Feb, 2016 AltLd dnf couldnt get through the? crux a crux? good effort from erik though raped the route sort of
with fat erik
couldnt get through the? crux a crux? good effort from erik though raped the route sort of
with fat erik
Hidden 12 Feb, 2016 AltLd dnf
olekemi 10 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S In 4 pitches. Jeremy led the crux p3, but all have considerable interest and proper hard climbing, perhaps exaggerated by the current conditions with lots of cruddy snow and hardly any neve, especially where neve would have been rather welcome. Hard, but thoroughly enjoyable and memorable. Climb of the season?
with Jeremy M
In 4 pitches. Jeremy led the crux p3, but all have considerable interest and proper hard climbing, perhaps exaggerated by the current conditions with lots of cruddy snow and hardly any neve, especially where neve would have been rather welcome. Hard, but thoroughly enjoyable and memorable. Climb of the season?
with Jeremy M
Hidden 15 Dec, 2014 AltLd
Tim_Gomersall 15 Dec, 2014 AltLd
with Callum johnson
with Callum johnson
glencoebob 11 Oct, 2014 AltLd Epic climb. Very greasy in the wet and some awkward/ungraceful moves on pitches 3 and 5. Took us longer than expected, probably done to phaffing
Epic climb. Very greasy in the wet and some awkward/ungraceful moves on pitches 3 and 5. Took us longer than expected, probably done to phaffing
saintlade ??, 2014 -
Uisdean hawthorn 10 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Mar, 2013 AltLd
michael83 24 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Mark020
with Mark020
Hidden 24 Feb, 2013 AltLd rpt
Hidden 22 Feb, 2013 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2013 -
Johnny Baker 7 Feb, 2012 AltLd Powder day on the ridge. A yard broom would have been a useful third tool. Continually good climbing with three very steep sections proving desperate to hook over in the powder. Gear good.
with Sam Richards
Powder day on the ridge. A yard broom would have been a useful third tool. Continually good climbing with three very steep sections proving desperate to hook over in the powder. Gear good.
with Sam Richards
davebrox ?Feb, 2012 Lead With military group before India exped
With military group before India exped
Dave Almond 26 Jan, 2012 AltLd Bmc international meet
with Marchello Sanguineti
Bmc international meet
with Marchello Sanguineti
James Smith 24 Jan, 2012 AltLd epic doesnt even begin to describe this day. 20 hours van to van, 14 on the climb. first VI for all of us, a lot of powder on the route to clear and i took 1 fall leading the crux after i failed to find the good hook in the powder (found it second go). also fell leading the last pitch due to dodgy kit (enough said for now about that), landed badly on my shoulder and had to prussic up the last pitch. topped out at 1am into a raging storm, back at the van at 3 and back at the house at 5am. long day!
with stu, sam
epic doesnt even begin to describe this day. 20 hours van to van, 14 on the climb. first VI for all of us, a lot of powder on the route to clear and i took 1 fall leading the crux after i failed to find the good hook in the powder (found it second go). also fell leading the last pitch due to dodgy kit (enough said for now about that), landed badly on my shoulder and had to prussic up the last pitch. topped out at 1am into a raging storm, back at the van at 3 and back at the house at 5am. long day!
with stu, sam
Hidden ??, 2012 -
bradill 29 Apr, 2011 Lead Climbed with A. Field. Great day out. Surprise snow field getting to the 1st pitch!
Climbed with A. Field. Great day out. Surprise snow field getting to the 1st pitch!
JdotP 12 Feb, 2011 2nd O/S I was Ondrej's belay bunny...
with Ondrej Mandula
I was Ondrej's belay bunny...
with Ondrej Mandula
Adam Booth 21 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S
with gowla
with gowla
gowla 21 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S led pitch 2
with adam booth
led pitch 2
with adam booth
Hidden 5 Jan, 2011 Lead
alkira ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
jamestheyip 4 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S A bit dry in places but neve was quite hard. Both crux pitches were excellent!
with Carlos
A bit dry in places but neve was quite hard. Both crux pitches were excellent!
with Carlos
Pete Graham 19 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Luke Porter
with Luke Porter
Cardi 19 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S Very fat. Snow not always consolidated. Glad to 2nd the crux pitch!
Very fat. Snow not always consolidated. Glad to 2nd the crux pitch!
mulletcocktail2000 14 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S classic! get's ore interesting (harder) with height then the tower is reached. lots of tech 6 climbing here! awesome exposure from the tower on! not for the faint hearted.
with andy
classic! get's ore interesting (harder) with height then the tower is reached. lots of tech 6 climbing here! awesome exposure from the tower on! not for the faint hearted.
with andy
Andy Moles 14 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
gforce 31 Jan, 2010 AltLd More snow on this side of the corrie than on the Pinnacle - made it quite hard going in places. Fell off the hard wall above the knife-edge, but got it second go once I had cleared a bit more snow.
with Simon
More snow on this side of the corrie than on the Pinnacle - made it quite hard going in places. Fell off the hard wall above the knife-edge, but got it second go once I had cleared a bit more snow.
with Simon
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 AltLd
ShaneHoubart ?May, 2009 AltLd
Small and weak ?Mar, 2009 AltLd
robinsi197 ?Mar, 2009 AltLd dnf Not quite winter, not quite summer. Wet snow loosely attached to rock. Turned round below crux pitch.
with Nick
Not quite winter, not quite summer. Wet snow loosely attached to rock. Turned round below crux pitch.
with Nick
Neil Adams 14 Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S A heck of a day! Knackering trail-breaking on the way in, a big route, and an exhausted stagger back out. Went a bit off route on P4 and ended up on pretty sketchy ground.
A heck of a day! Knackering trail-breaking on the way in, a big route, and an exhausted stagger back out. Went a bit off route on P4 and ended up on pretty sketchy ground.
Alasdair Fulton 14 Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S 4hr wade to get there. Good conditions on route - crux was steep, but never desperate. Neil had a seriously sketchy "moment" while slightly off route!
4hr wade to get there. Good conditions on route - crux was steep, but never desperate. Neil had a seriously sketchy "moment" while slightly off route!
hwackerhage 1 Feb, 2009 Lead Behind two other teams. Second's head torch did not work so 'working' the summer crux in the darkness was exciting for him and the belayer!
with Trias
Behind two other teams. Second's head torch did not work so 'working' the summer crux in the darkness was exciting for him and the belayer!
with Trias
sgl 1 Feb, 2009 AltLd
with gaz
with gaz
gaz.marshall 1 Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S
with sgl
with sgl
Hidden 9 Mar, 2008 AltLd β
s kennedy 9 Mar, 2008 AltLd β
with mark mosgrove
with mark mosgrove
Hidden ??, 2008 -
smac ??, 2008 -
samrcowie ?Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S
with pete and tom buck
with pete and tom buck
mux ??, 2007 -
with Simon Frost , Neil Griffiths
with Simon Frost , Neil Griffiths
frost ??, 2007 AltLd
with D Garry N Griffiths
with D Garry N Griffiths
NeilGriffiths ??, 2007 AltLd A grand day out.
with Dave Garry, frost
A grand day out.
with Dave Garry, frost
Smelly Fox ?Jan, 2006 AltLd dnf Came down just before the tower. Very slow progress with lots of powder to clear.
with Matt Croll
Came down just before the tower. Very slow progress with lots of powder to clear.
with Matt Croll
Neil McA 13 Mar, 2004 AltLd dnf It was 17 years since my previous failure on this! Today we rapped from half way up the 4th pitch in unconsolidated useless deep powder conditions
with Nick Wallace
It was 17 years since my previous failure on this! Today we rapped from half way up the 4th pitch in unconsolidated useless deep powder conditions
with Nick Wallace
Hidden ??, 2003 AltLd dnf
MarkDavies36 ??, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Richard Bentley
with Richard Bentley
Ian Carr ?Apr, 2001 -
with Tut B
with Tut B
Malcolm Bass ?Feb, 2001 AltLd
with John Macfarlane, Paul Figg
with John Macfarlane, Paul Figg
Paul Figg ?Feb, 2001 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2001 AltLd O/S
Dave Almond ?Mar, 2000 AltLd started route at 1.30pm in very heavy snowy conditions.my partner fell off the crux landing on his bum on the knife edge.sore.i lead through and we topped out in the dark with snow falling, no maps and never been there before.very exciting.
started route at 1.30pm in very heavy snowy conditions.my partner fell off the crux landing on his bum on the knife edge.sore.i lead through and we topped out in the dark with snow falling, no maps and never been there before.very exciting.
James Gordon ?Jan, 2000 -
Graham Kennedy 1 Aug, 1998 2nd Summer route - S
with Andrew Porter
Summer route - S
with Andrew Porter
Andy Clark 6 Mar, 1998 AltLd
with Burnsie
with Burnsie
Hidden 6 Mar, 1998 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Feb, 1998 AltLd O/S
phardman 9 Feb, 1997 AltLd O/S Best winter route ever?
with Muir Morton
Best winter route ever?
with Muir Morton
QuicNic ??, 1997 AltLd Lovely day and good conditions. Toughest winter climb I've done. My mate had a fall from the first crux so I took it on. Only just managed the second crux. Great climbing!
Lovely day and good conditions. Toughest winter climb I've done. My mate had a fall from the first crux so I took it on. Only just managed the second crux. Great climbing!
nickdonohue 29 Mar, 1996 AltLd
with Caley Latham
with Caley Latham
phardman ?Feb, 1996 -
Si Witcher ?Feb, 1996 AltLd
Ollie Clem ?Jan, 1996 AltLd dnf Another epic. Heavy snow breaking trail in, avalanches down the gully's all day. No water. Blind ally followed above the whaleback. Ab off and very shaky walk out. Great day!
Another epic. Heavy snow breaking trail in, avalanches down the gully's all day. No water. Blind ally followed above the whaleback. Ab off and very shaky walk out. Great day!
Dave Musgrove Jnr 18 Feb, 1995 AltLd Brilliant. Possibly best Scottish Winter experience
with Chris Ranner
Brilliant. Possibly best Scottish Winter experience
with Chris Ranner
pauldrew ??, 1995 AltLd
with Julian Cox
with Julian Cox
mark-abz 17 Apr, 1994 Lead
with Tom O
with Tom O
FrankW ?Mar, 1994 AltLd O/S
with Andy R
with Andy R
john irving ??, 1991 - 1st V. Dropped axe pitch 3. Martin dropped huge snowlump from tower onto JA head. Cunning variation at summer crux
with Jamie Andrew, Rich Davies
1st V. Dropped axe pitch 3. Martin dropped huge snowlump from tower onto JA head. Cunning variation at summer crux
with Jamie Andrew, Rich Davies
clanger ??, 1990 -
Hidden ?Apr, 1988 AltLd
charlesmfrench 12 Mar, 1988 AltLd O/S 2,L,2,L,2,L.
with Keith Milne, Ian Milne
2,L,2,L,2,L.
with Keith Milne, Ian Milne
Neil McA 2 Jan, 1985 AltLd dnf Failed 3 pitches up under heavy powder
with Andy Scrase
Failed 3 pitches up under heavy powder
with Andy Scrase
The Bronze 15 Feb, 1983 AltLd O/S Excellent route, grade 5 at the time, lead top pitch, toped out in the dark, great day out, memorable.
with M.Hair
Excellent route, grade 5 at the time, lead top pitch, toped out in the dark, great day out, memorable.
with M.Hair
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Voting
High VII
Mid VII
Low VII
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 15
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set