270m, 6 pitches. A classic climb well worth its stars. It feels desperate and undignified in places. Be prepared to grovel and kneel before the might of Lochnagar...

Since the book has no pitch descriptions:
1. 20-25m Follow the big steep obvious groove for 10m until an airy traverse out right can be made to a big ledge looking down in to the chimney.
2. 50-60m Step in to the chimney and climb steeply until just before it narrows and pull out right with difficulty. Traverse up and right before cutting back left and up in to the turf field. Run it out and find somewhere to belay.
3. 60m(maybe more, be prepared to simu-climb) Traverse up and right until a steep ledge overlooking parallel gully B can be followed to its end. Belay at the base of an obvious steep right facing corner.
4. 50m Climb down a few meters and move up left on to the face of the buttress, follow turfy grooves all the way to the foot of the headwall.
5. 30m Climb up left on to the small ledge and pull through the desperate crux crack. Pull round left of the tower and traverse delicately on exposed ground until easy moves up right lead back to the crest of the buttress. Belay just over the other side of the crest.
6. 50m Climb easily to the summit and celebrate with lots of sweeties.
Around 270m, climbed in 7hours from daybreak.
M. McGhie - Feb 2012

Ticklists

Cold Climbs, In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers, Mountaineering in Scotland: in the footsteps of WH Murray, 3 star Scottish winter, Cold Climbs (slimmed down)

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 15 Mar, 2015 Lead dnf
CacCarnBeag 15 Mar, 2015 2nd dnf Andy led left hand variation start and 2nd hard pitch. Top tower looked very black.
with adw07
Andy led left hand variation start and 2nd hard pitch. Top tower looked very black.
with adw07
Hidden 11 Jan, 2014 AltLd
sgl 11 Jan, 2014 AltLd
with tebs
with tebs
Hidden 2 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S
Stuart the postie 2 Mar, 2013 AltLd dnf Climbed the L/Hand Variation VI,7, abbed from after pitch 2, under thawing conditions
with Graham Stein
Climbed the L/Hand Variation VI,7, abbed from after pitch 2, under thawing conditions
with Graham Stein
Hidden 2 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S
michael83 2 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S lead the desperate crux. A somewhat undignified route but great fun all the same!
with Mark020
lead the desperate crux. A somewhat undignified route but great fun all the same!
with Mark020
Tom Livingstone 28 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 Jan, 2012 AltLd
mark-abz 11 Mar, 1994 AltLd
with Walter P
with Walter P
Hidden ?Feb, 1988 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1985 AltLd
Malcolm Bass ??, 0000 AltLd O/S
with Simon Yearsley, Dave Johnson
with Simon Yearsley, Dave Johnson
8 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High VII
Mid VII
Low VII
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 5
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set