No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, Winter Munroist's "Must Do", 3 star Scottish winter, Chasing the Ephemeral.


ClimberDateStyle
Jasonic 22/Mar AltLd
LukeWawrzyniak 20/Feb AltLd dnf

Retreated after falling cornice avalanche almost hit us.

with TomX
Hidden 17/Feb AltLd
machars 21/Jan Solo dnf

Sadly not complete and what ice there was was hollow and detached. Bomber neve though.

davemccrave666 07/Jan AltLd O/S

Slim pickings but great fun all the same!

with Jamie
Hidden 07/Jan -
jamiefoxen 07/Jan AltLd O/S

A really surprising ice buildup on the climbing pitches, the rest just a snow plod, Probably grade III in the conditions

with david allan
Roberttaylor 05/Jan Solo O/S

Lean but still good. Grade III in these conditions (felt similar to tower scoop). Good fun.

smollett 03/Jan AltLd
with Andrew
NickH ??/2017 -
Hidden 27/Dec/16 -
Hidden 04/Dec/16 AltLd rpt
Hidden 04/Dec/16 AltLd
Hidden 27/Nov/16 -
carr0t 18/Nov/16 -

A bit on the lean side of things, but every pitch had ice on it. Thin, but good enough to climb. Absolutely excellent!

jharlow 01/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Keiran.A 01/Apr/16 Lead
with John Harlow
axelgrease 25/Mar/16 Lead

Generally on solid spring snow. Crux is on the thin side but has enough ice for left leg, with good solid white stuff above. Very steep spring snow finish amidst the avoidable slumped cornices.

with Kate
Tobes 20/Mar/16 Solo rpt

Awesome! had the whole place to myself.

HimTiggins ??/2016 -
mountain musher ??/2016 -
mountain musher ??/2016 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
mountain musher ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Solo O/S
picasso 29/Mar/15 Lead
nokishatov 29/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Pretty much banked out with an icy steepening as the 'crux'. Snow more cruddy towards the top & cornice easy to surmount on the left.

Ross Barnes 25/Mar/15 Solo
andymcronald 16/Mar/15 Solo

Very poor visibility. Condition good. Cornice at top nice and stable.

Hidden 14/Mar/15 Lead
Hidden 08/Mar/15 Solo O/S
David Woods 08/Mar/15 Solo O/S

Soloed some sections and was protected by a rope belay in others. Incredible route. The majority of the enormous cornice has collapsed making this route very viable and easier to finish. Steep good quality neve throughout.

with Adam Archibald, Euan Maharg
SteveM 21/Feb/15 AltLd
with Aidan
QuicNic 21/Feb/15 Lead rpt

With novice winter climber. All but steepest pitch banked out and straight forward. Minimal gear. Decided to do the Gutter (III) on the right wall near top. This had good ice but steep and more like technical 4.

Pete23 21/Feb/15 AltLd
with Stephen Mors
drsdave 21/Feb/15 Lead O/S

a great gulley non better, worth soloing next time, cornices built up heavily on the right exit and frightening in size but escape left is very possible with no cornice, limited protection all the way and used an ice axe belay mid snow slope

with Joel Harman
morsy 21/Feb/15 AltLd
with peter berwick
lee1234 20/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
theplacelives 20/Feb/15 AltLd
Ryan23 20/Feb/15 -
MikeLell 15/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
with Doug Beaumont
peter.herd 14/Feb/15 Lead

Amy's first winter climb. Smiles all round.. even when i axed myself and got a nose bleed. I have left my mark.

with Amy
djbeaumont 14/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
with Mike L
cacheson 14/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Great route, massive cornice which can be avoided on left

Amy Pritchett 14/Feb/15 2nd

My first ever winter climb, thoroughly enjoyed!

JamesRoddie 09/Feb/15 Solo O/S

A great atmospheric gully. Variable conditions but good ice on the crux, which felt more like low grade III. Top half of the route mainly scoured neve and the cornice was avoidable on the left.

Steven Andrews 29/Jan/15 AltLd

What a cool climb with amazing rock and cornice architecture!

with Nasta
Hidden 27/Jan/15 AltLd
bpw666 04/Jan/15 2nd O/S
with Tim Croker
Hidden 04/Jan/15 Solo O/S
malone 02/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

moving together

with tom shaw
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd O/S
CatMc ?/Dec/14 2nd
with clams
clams ?/Dec/14 Lead

One move of III

Hidden 12/Jan/14 Solo O/S
illepo 12/Jan/14 2nd O/S
Plungeman 12/Jan/14 Lead O/S

Rock solid snow for the mostpart, interesting getting through then over the cornice

with Fergus
Andrew Sloan 11/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

A consolation route after abseiling off Moonshadow. Moved together and did the main gully in 50 minutes. Then spent 3 hours getting through final 40 foot and cornice.....awful steep unconsolidated snow....a nightmare.

Martin Haworth 11/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
with Andy
keith hal 04/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Led crux. Great route!

with Ian Lee-Bapty
Mike-W-99 02/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Melting rapidly but enjoyable.

with Fiona
Hidden 02/Mar/13 AltLd
Fiona Reid 02/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Rather soggy in places but the crux ice was intact. Done as 3 pitches, led pitch 2 (crux). Nice route.

with Mike
Roger Cruse 21/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Rich Holt
Hidden 02/Feb/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jan/13 AltLd
AC1 ??/2013 -
andyinglis 26/Dec/12 Lead O/S

Turkey powered! Great weather and conditions.

with mal meach
Zoe Cockburn 26/Dec/12 AltLd

Beautiful day, but oddly deserted! Unusually icy in parts, and a big cornice haha.

Hidden 26/Dec/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Col Kingshott 28/Feb/12 AltLd
tomosb 26/Feb/12 AltLd
with Darren Thompson
Chris Banks 17/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with Gavin N, Dave Beynon
Hidden 17/Feb/12 AltLd
tsjx 16/Feb/12 AltLd
with Sandra, Neil
whistler 12/Feb/12 Solo O/S

Good fun.

Anna_wells 11/Feb/12 -
with TIM
Hidden 03/Feb/12 Lead O/S
stefelafel 02/Feb/12 AltLd
Tim_Gomersall ?/Feb/12 AltLd
with ANNA
Hidden ?/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Palindrome ?/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Gavin L 29/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with Bob Allan, Rew Ferguson
65m moderate millington 29/Jan/12 Lead dnf

benighted after not manning up to the crux. possibly bad choice for first proper winter route, seemed very thin on the crux.

Bob.allan 29/Jan/12 2nd O/S
with Gavin L, Rew ferguson
Hidden 29/Jan/12 Lead dnf
Palomino1hills 20/Jan/12 Lead

Great climb ice was a bit broken but led all ice pitches.

with Geoff
Sutty22 15/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Great day. Crux sections were a bit thin. Great neve all the way up. 12 hours car to car so need to work on my efficiency.

with Dave
joeydurkin 15/Jan/12 Lead
with Chris W
skirton 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jan/12 Lead
fall-line 14/Jan/12 -

Bit thin!

with Sarah Kirton
OZZY1962 13/Jan/12 AltLd

was a great day i miss doing the crux , there was no ice on it. so very interesting as they say in the guide book. So jerome lead both the crux and the small water fall 2/3 tne way up.

with JEROME
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
BallsOfSteel 24/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

lots of running water. had a wobble, but was saved the faff of a retreat by some balls on my partners part. memorable!

Hidden 24/Dec/11 AltLd
abbeywall 05/Mar/11 AltLd

ice pitch rather broken and hollow, care required. superb cornice exit to the left with cornice horror looking over on the right

with K
Ross L 05/Mar/11 2nd
with Duncan
stefelafel 03/Feb/11 2nd

Crux completed, had to ab off due to deteriorating conditions. i.e. Avalanches...

ConorC 28/Jan/11 2nd dnf
Debbie Lee 23/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Timo Austino 23/Jan/11 -

1st trip to Lochnager - just awesome and what an atmosphere the place has....can't wait to be back..

with Nats
MrRiley 22/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

full value! very lean ice pitch partially collapsed making for some fun moves, cornice exit was steeeeep on moderately consolidated snow

Hidden 22/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Tomek S 22/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Wojttek 22/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with Tomek S
miro 18/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Lot snow on enter of the gully as well in the chimney.Ics was really tin on second icefall.Was like climbing egg shell with running water in the middle :) Perfect :) I really enjoy it. Very nice (careful on strong winds and thick fog)

Hidden 02/Jan/11 AltLd
Hidden 02/Jan/11 AltLd
CacCarnBeag 02/Jan/11 2nd
with Stevie
stephenmckenzie 02/Jan/11 Lead O/S

First winter lead.

benjaminireland 01/Jan/11 AltLd
nia 01/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with harry
rosieposey14 01/Jan/11 AltLd
with ben ireland
Timo Austino ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Hidden 14/Nov/10 AltLd
Hidden 19/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Pete Main 19/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Andrew S
WilliamBurnside 27/Mar/10 Lead
with Dave McGregor
Billy Burnside 27/Mar/10 Lead

Ice ptch good, lots of Debris coming down tho.

Hidden 13/Mar/10 Lead
Hidden 13/Mar/10 AltLd
SWalls 14/Feb/10 Lead
with Andrea Howard
Harry Holmes 13/Feb/10 Lead

i wouldn't say it's a 3 star route

Hidden 13/Feb/10 2nd O/S
Tobes ?/Jan/10 Lead
with Alistair
Pete Main ??/2010 -
kenneM 19/Dec/09 Lead

Climbed with Jaz

with Jaz
Hidden 13/Dec/09 -
Plungeman 13/Dec/09 2nd O/S

Followed Kyle up, roped up for 2 icy sections, moving together for the rest and finishing up in the dark in fantastic weather

with Joe, Kyle
johannes 12/Dec/09 Lead O/S
calumalien ?/Dec/09 Lead
with Pops
oliverk 21/Mar/09 AltLd

Pitches 1 and 3.

with Steve
Hidden 22/Feb/09 AltLd β
iceicebaby 01/Jan/09 2nd O/S

What a way to start 2009!!! Never before has that gully witnessed such super chic climbers either ;)

Hidden 01/Jan/09 AltLd
tubby two ?/Jan/09 Lead
with Lisa teaspoon
windy100 ??/2009 -
Elsier 31/Dec/08 2nd O/S
with Stuart
Neilm18 31/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
with Alex Sweet
lyndseymackay 31/Dec/08 -
with Malc
Somerset swede basher 30/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Katharine
t_stork 30/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Marcus Brown
frecro 30/Dec/08 Lead
with Zoe Thornton
Katharine.eaton 30/Dec/08 2nd O/S
with Dom
Sandy Simpson 29/Dec/08 Solo
Hidden 26/Dec/08 AltLd rpt
michael83 26/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
with Mark, Aly
Hidden 16/Dec/08 2nd
Sandy Simpson 29/Nov/08 AltLd

lean and very icy all in all really good.

with Forest Templeton
niall_mac ?/Nov/08 AltLd
with Mark R
Hidden 19/Apr/08 2nd
mark-abz 15/Mar/08 Lead
with Alex
ollythomas 13/Mar/08 -

Lots of snow, but well consolidated so not major avalanche risk. Exited out onto Tough-Brown ridge (III and quite run out) to avoid the amphitheatre and large cornices.

with Chris Hendron
Zoƫ 29/Feb/08 AltLd

1st gulley route, really enjoyabl.

with Frecro
jonnie3430 20/Jan/08 AltLd
with The Root
smac ??/2008 -
TrollJester ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's
Hidden ??/2008 Solo
SWalls 30/Dec/07 AltLd
with Steve Addy, Iain Munro
lithos 30/Dec/07 Lead

lots of ice but much of it destroyed, great route in great nick on a fantastic day. ran out of rope running the ice pitches together - oops

with warwick andeson
Hidden 30/Dec/07 AltLd
Simon Caldwell 29/Dec/07 Lead O/S

In 'early season' condition, with loads of ice, a fantastic grade III. And we had the route to ourselves somehow :-) Topped out into a bit of a hoolie at 4pm, and managed to make the descent even more exciting by heading off in the wrong direction. Back at the car about 7.30, thanks to S&D for hanging around for 90 minutes to drive us home!

with Carmen
Hidden ?/Dec/07 AltLd
Captain Solo 09/Mar/07 Solo

Interesting cornice exit, met and walked out with Freddie Malcolm, after his annual ascent of The Black Spout

Hidden 18/Feb/07 Lead
Elastic Jones 14/Jan/07 AltLd O/S
with Alistair
Bob.allan 06/Jan/07 2nd
with stewart, Jason Mitchell
Ice Spider 06/Jan/07 Lead
with Bob Allan, Stewart
mje1398 02/Jan/07 2nd
with Steph+Duncan+Richard
Hidden ?/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
s kennedy ?/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
with mark mosgrove
DavPk 15/Jan/06 AltLd

Perfect weather, thin conditions. Chokestone pitch on thin ice - probably III/IV.

with Adam Henly
Chris L Hill ?/Jan/06 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Shaw
CurlyStevo ??/2006 AltLd

This climb was in good condition with plenty of ice on the crux. Defo done easier grade III climbs.

lost.arrow 14/Feb/05 -
with Stu Sherwood
sgl 04/Feb/05 Lead
with Matt
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Ice Spider ??/2005 Lead
with Rew
Andy Clark ??/2005 AltLd
with Burnsie
Hidden ?/Mar/04 -
Dangerous Dave ??/2004 Lead O/S
niall_mac ?/Jan/02 AltLd
steveP ?/Feb/01 Solo O/S
with Paul Rowlands, Frank Popham
Robinl100 27/Jan/01 2nd O/S
with Sam Barron
Hidden ?/Feb/00 AltLd
Andy Say 08/Feb/99 Lead
bandersnatch ??/1999 Lead
Hidden 13/Apr/98 AltLd
Hidden 31/Jan/98 AltLd O/S
oor wullie ??/1998 -

climbed at least 5 times

Niall B ?/Dec/96 AltLd
Smith42 ?/Mar/96 -
Hidden 10/Feb/95 AltLd
Richard Weller 14/Jan/95 AltLd
with Alec Keith
ill_bill ??/1994 Lead
charlesmfrench 28/Mar/93 Solo O/S
with Keith Milne
Yourlead 21/Feb/93 AltLd

Hard neve and lean with exposed chock stone pitch on thin ice. worth a III 4 on the day

with Graham Penny
FrankW ?/Feb/93 AltLd O/S
with Roland K
TobyA ?/Jan/93 AltLd O/S

Cutting the cornice was made memorable by Thomas' belay 40 mtrs below being a big hole he had dug and then sat in.

with German Thomas
Hidden 15/Dec/90 Lead
Stuart S 13/Dec/87 AltLd O/S
with Jolyon Pickles
Hidden ??/1986 AltLd
ColinMeech 08/Apr/85 AltLd O/S
rossn ?/Feb/85 AltLd

Worst conditions ever

Hidden ??/1985 Solo
sacdenouilles ?/Feb/81 Solo
Martin Bennett 15/Mar/75 -
with Geoff Baker, JD, Bob Thomson
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Voting
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
High II
Mid II
Low II
High I/II
Mid I/II
Low I/II
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 50
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set