UKC

210m, 5 pitches. Start NG93151314, above Loch a'Choire Uaine. In most conditions the gully appears from here as a large rectangular section cleft leading straight up to near the trig point of An Diollaid (The Saddle). Needs time to fill but under heavy snow the lower section will be either heavily banked out or impossibly deep in powder. The mid section consists of a series of snowy ramps inter-spaced with steps of varying difficulty. Banked out conditions produce a simple ascent while others can create significant difficulties on the steps for those expecting III!! Belays usually good. A short section of open easy ground leads to the ridge just west of the trig point.

Not 1994! 1926.

This climb cannot be verified, and the crag moderator needs more information.

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User Date Notes
Jim Fraser 9 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I cannot imagine what is 'cannot be verified' about a route that has been in guide books since Spring of 1926.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I cannot imagine what is 'cannot be verified' about a route that has been in guide books since Spring of 1926.

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Guidebooks for The Saddle

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High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
Route of Interest
Glovers Chimney

Grade: III 4 ***
(Ben Nevis)

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