Rockfax Description
14m. A short fingery wall leads to bulges (large cams) which are tackled leftwards then right using the nostril-like pockets.
The right-hand exit is the stretchy Ginger Whinger, E7 7a. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start between Parsons' and Frankland's, climb to the curving break. Climb over this to the left, then using the nostrils climb to the top.

John Syrett, Al Manson. 01/May/1973

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies., Ultimate E3 ticklist, The Five Best E3 Routes in the UK?, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, The All New 3 Star Way to Yorkshire Gritstone Heaven..

WilliamRupp 19/Nov/17 Lead O/S
with felix
FelixJT 19/Nov/17 2nd
with willr
Hidden 18/Nov/17 Lead dnf
shaunhumphreys 29/Jul/17 Lead β

After watching Dan and Ed take the ride! class!

with Charlotte, DanO, Ed Teale
mrteale 29/Jul/17 Lead G/U

Quality line. Got really pumped trying to arrange hands in the pocket first time then didn't commit to the rock over. Felt easy next go after pulling ropes. No hands knee-bar rest helped!

Steve Wootton 22/Jul/17 2nd rpt
Jono_LS16 16/Jul/17 Lead rpt
WillDoyle 12/Jul/17 Lead
BRoe 02/Jul/17 Lead O/S
scottcoates 25/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/17 Lead β
Matt Amos 17/Jun/17 Lead
jonathan_doyle 17/Jun/17 2nd
Flavio 11/Jun/17 Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 11/Jun/17 2nd dog
with Flavio
Steven1993 09/Jun/17 Lead G/U

Took the whip off the last move first go, tried properly on the second go and got it

with Jim
spidermonkey09 09/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Very nice to do this, top section is so good! Reading the moves through the pocket right from the ground is probably the key. 1 classic down, 2 to go.

Hidden 23/May/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/17 2nd rpt
Steve Wootton 20/May/17 Lead dog

Fell after the pocket. Need to use big flake to reach first pocket.

Jmpollard 05/May/17 Lead β

Can't really claim the onsight because I knew the beta for a key move, however couldn't remember the last few moves which felt very committing! Very pleased to have flashed it! Far easier than western front!

with Robb Jackson
robbjackson 05/May/17 2nd dog
with Josh Pollard
esther ?/May/17 Lead
nuts and bolts ??/2017 -
oread 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Great route but defiantly not 6a (in the definitive guide)

ollyisaclimber 29/Sep/16 Lead

Retro Flash! Really, really fucking windy.

with Josh
Joshua Robertson 29/Sep/16 Lead G/U
with olly
scarmichael 24/Sep/16 -

Repeat on steves gear

with Steve Wooton
Steve Wootton 24/Sep/16 Lead dog

Happy to get the boulder scary start and make it up to the top wall first pocket. Tried it on second, super hard moves & crimps, slopers at top. it will go when i have strong fingers!

MichaelGallimore 05/Sep/16 Lead

Last time I tried this was on second about 4 years ago. I don't think I got up it. I had a look at the top holds and was disappointed by them and they were damp. Climbed clean first try. Moves on the headwall were thrilling!

with Tom lake, ben.phillips
ben.phillips 05/Sep/16 2nd dog
Alistair Corbett ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Ben Robinson
JayAyBee 23/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Nuala
Kelsey 23/Jun/16 2nd
with James
lcullum7 08/May/16 2nd
Hidden 05/May/16 Lead β
samwillo 13/Apr/16 Lead

OS. Surprised by how easy this was, had heard horror stories of terrifying top outs but its all there.

with Tom Fleming
Hugobristol 05/Apr/16 Lead G/U

After a few falls, i walked around to look at the top..

with munro, Eleanor
will9911 13/Mar/16 2nd β
James Thacker ??/2016 -
robertmctague 25/Oct/15 Lead rpt
Jackwd 03/Oct/15 AltLd dnf

Last couple of moves. Will be back for this!

with Guy Chater
Scott Quinn 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S

good route, really safe

Tom.Priestley 20/Sep/15 2nd dog

Misread the final moves

andy jennings 17/Sep/15 2nd β
with Mr. Lovatt
redshapedfriday 23/Aug/15 2nd dog
GPN 23/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Very bouldery! For me this was the easiest of the 'big three'.

scarmichael 29/Jul/15 Lead RP

Just got the crimps before the rain hit, left gear in after previous attempt, smashing finish!

david morse 23/Jul/15 Lead β

Flashed on Tom's gear. The easiest of the 3 by far, if you know what to do. I was shitting it at the top after all the tales of 10m lobs but fortunately it went fine. Second of the three for me.

with 2 finger
Mike Todd 23/Jul/15 Lead RP

Second go clean. Brilliant route and the top out wasn't as hard and scary as I was expecting.

robman 18/Jul/15 Lead G/U

fell off on onsight, left ropes in, went clean 2nd go.

Mike Todd 17/Jul/15 Lead dnf
tim newton 23/Jun/15 Lead β
Rachel Slater 23/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Dave Mayes 19/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Great route, first E3 onsight

with Emily
will9911 21/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Matt Cooke 21/Apr/15 Lead β
with Will Taylor
samrad 27/Mar/15 Lead β
with james G
Hidden 20/Mar/15 Lead O/S
phil64 ??/2015 -
Duncan Campbell 18/Oct/14 Lead G/U

Fell off the top having not looked at the top holds last saturday. This time went and cleaned and chalked the hold over the top - good job as it was a tad wet! Awesome route, my fave on grit to date. Well psyched.

with Flo, Stadders, Bubbles
Duncan Campbell 11/Oct/14 Lead dnf

Took the lob from the top at the end of the day, would go back and brush the top and locate top holds. Very intimidating but relatively reasonable climbing up to the top section, though the first bit is technical and bold feeling. Ace lob from the top of the crag to the almost the bottom!

with Flo, Bubbles
pastep 05/Oct/14 TR
with ebf
ebf 05/Oct/14 TR O/S

Top roped with Paul. I fell off twice before finishing, he did it clean with my chalk to follow! One for next time. Reachy and bold but actually not that hard once you know what's coming.

jacobjacob 01/Oct/14 Solo rpt
rikbattye 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
ollyisaclimber 13/Sep/14 Lead RP
bantamdave 31/Aug/14 2nd dog

A very tough day !

with Tony Maden
nick ferro 22/Jul/14 2nd
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 16/Jul/14 Lead G/U
climberchristy 06/Jun/14 Lead G/U

Excellent! Fell off this last year but clean on first go tonight. If you're not too tall like me then crux definitely feels like 6a (as new Yorkshire Guide gives it.) Really great top out well above your gear, although gear is absolutely bomber. *** star route

with bencole
bencole ?/Jun/14 Lead rpt

After seconding Christy.

ebf ?/Jan/14 TR
pastep ?/Jan/14 TR


with ebf
ebf ?/Jan/14 TR
ebf ?/Jan/14 TR
pastep ??/2014 TR β
with ebf
robertmctague ??/2014 Lead
Nez ??/2014 -
Coops_13 23/Nov/13 Lead dog

Underestimated this, so glad to have got to the top without taking the massive lob.

pie_eater_pete 24/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
elCapitano 05/Oct/13 2nd dog
lanky and weak 24/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with John McCune
James Oswald 21/Sep/13 Lead RP

First go I committed to the moves, switched hands on the pocket then got slightly scared moving above my gear. 2nd go went well and felt much more relaxed. Matching on the pocket is really hard! AMazing route.

with Chris Mullaney, Kyle Wood
Apharri 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Jim Gayler
Jono_LS16 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 07/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/13 Lead β
Malcolm Bass 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Adrian Mellor
Sophie Nunn 11/Aug/13 2nd dog
with Felix
feilx 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Chris Reid 09/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/13 2nd
CragDog 01/Jul/13 Lead RP
lanky and weak 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Lucy Mitchell
tommytwotone 03/May/13 2nd

Certainly keeps coming at you...

with Mike
MeMeMe 03/May/13 Lead
with Tom
danny33 ?/May/13 Lead
MichaelGallimore 21/Apr/13 TR dog
with Maria, Stephan
MeMeMe 06/Sep/12 Lead
JRennie 21/Jul/12 2nd β
steveleahy 14/Jul/12 Lead RP

got it clean after one fail, just cos i missed a foothold. Frustrating not to get the onsight but nice route

Hidden 12/Jul/12 TR
Hidden 12/Jul/12 TR
budchawla ?/Jul/12 2nd dog

Got the pocket-match move wrong and had to repeat that move. Great route! Left gear in-situ for next leader & then seconded again to clean route.

Rockwarrior ?/Jul/12 -

Nice and great route

Rockwarrior ?/Jul/12 Lead

Awesome route, brilliant!

Hidden 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Dave Warburton 24/Jun/12 Lead β

Second of the three. Excellent. Huge side winds made it interesting! On Conors gear.

with Conor
robertmichaellovell 02/Jun/12 Lead

2nd go - you go a long way if you fluff the top, a very fun route

with Andy H
a_hein 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
NaomiHart 27/May/12 2nd dog
PeteH 27/May/12 Lead

Not sure how to log this.. Lobbed off floundering for the top, didn't bother pulling ropes but climbed it next go. Top-rope to the knee-bar then lead after? Definitely 6a moves!

Dan Mckinlay 13/Apr/12 Lead
Dan Arkle ??/2012 Lead
budchawla ??/2012 -
jacobjacob 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Scary green topout!

akhughes 03/Oct/11 Lead O/S
dave o 20/Sep/11 2nd
with Graham
gforce 20/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Dave O
markalmack 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/11 2nd
MeMeMe 08/Jun/11 Lead
with Pete
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
thebigfriendlymoose ??/2011 Lead rpt
with Martin Wood
JulesV ??/2011 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2011 -
with Steve Sharland
Andrew Barker 21/Sep/10 Lead β

Great stuff. Pretty much onsight but I had seen the top while I was belaying at the top of Overhanging Groove. Bold technical start followed by a more strenuous but well-protected finish.

with Si
simon kimber 16/Aug/10 Lead

bit too casual - just popped off at the top. got it easily next go.

with Rob Sandercock
Jon Read 08/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 23/Jul/10 Lead β
Hidden 02/Jul/10 Lead β
Jack00 27/May/10 Lead O/S
with Olly
chrishedgehog 21/May/10 TR dog

On shunt, messed up the top-out

Hidden 20/May/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 20/May/10 Lead dnf
rob.s22 ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with S,K
miastacey 26/Apr/09 2nd
with Bob Smith
Toby Dunn ?/Sep/08 -
Ram MkiV 30/Jun/08 Lead

even better than I remember it from a couple of years ago

with Al & Hannah
Alex Mason 30/Jun/08 Lead rpt

bottled it first go from top crimp, returned to deck, got it next go easily. think lack of trad and confidence hindered clean ascent

with Steve and Hannah
IanJackson 23/Feb/08 Lead dnf

Got to the top pocket 3 times, chickened out 3 times. Downclimbed to the ground, so still ok for the O/S!

with Big Ian
alaan 19/Jan/08 Lead rpt

Took a massive fall from this route last year, felt nervous this time but it was over mercifully quickly. Finished direct.

Boy ??/2008 -
Hidden 25/Nov/07 TR dnf
Will Hunt 25/Nov/07 2nd O/S

Not as difficult as I thought it would be but with possibly the worst top out Ive ever seen. Sean jettisoned the remainder of his rack before going for the crux so I had to second it with all that gear in tow.

Sean_J 25/Nov/07 Lead O/S
ali_robb ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
MeMeMe 30/Aug/07 Lead dog

One rest after failing to work out the top first go.

with Andy and Bob
mattyork2 26/Jun/07 2nd
Ally Smith 26/Jun/07 Lead
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 14/Jun/07 Lead O/S
alaan 17/Feb/07 Lead dnf

25ft fall from the top. Gutted.

with Grant
Ally Smith ??/2007 Lead O/S
WB 26/Jul/06 Lead G/U

one fall from the top, annoying, as it was not too bad the second go. I blame bad beta!

with Jim
ukb & bmc shark 11/Feb/06 Lead O/S

Exciting. Hard for the grade ?

with Bruce Woodley
Hidden 29/Oct/05 Lead
Ram MkiV ?/Aug/05 Lead

1st effort had to slap for top - held it for a scond but too greasy so took the lob and blew the onsight! 10 mins later; second effort - chalked up pre-crux properly and it felt class, went nice and static. Biggest fall to date.

with Alex Mason
Gus 31/Oct/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/04 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 15/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/02 Lead O/S
shoulders ??/2002 TR
Chris Reid 11/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with Rob Muirhead
jhardwick ??/2000 2nd O/S
chrishedgehog 10/Jun/99 TR dog
with Dan Bailey
Rich Kirby 28/Jul/98 Lead rpt
with Robin
Mike Owen 13/May/98 Lead O/S
with Mark Hounsley
Jon Read ?/May/98 Lead O/S
with Tanya Holdsworth
innes ?/Mar/98 Lead
with Craig
sadams 25/Oct/97 Lead
with Hugh Cottom
Hidden 21/Sep/97 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Jul/97 Lead
Hidden 14/Apr/97 Lead O/S
jameshiggins ??/1997 -
SR1970 ?/Aug/96 Lead O/S
John Southworth 08/May/96 Lead rpt
with Matt Booth
rob.grafton 12/Sep/95 Lead
with Bruce
rob.grafton ??/1995 Lead
with Bruce
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
leathers ??/1995 TR
Seymore Butt ??/1995 2nd
with Dave Barton
andybirtwistle 08/May/94 Lead
with Liz Dolman
jfletcher 17/Sep/93 Lead
with Phil Dowthwaite
rob.grafton 18/May/93 Lead
with Bruce
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Oct/92 Lead
with Dad
Dave Musgrove 23/Sep/92 2nd
with David
Rich Kirby 23/Jul/92 2nd
Dave Turnbull 12/Jun/92 TR
with Nigel Birtwell
nai ??/1992 Lead
Steve Crowe 29/Jul/90 Lead O/S
with KM
Eduardo Martinez 17/Jul/90 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ?/Mar/90 Lead O/S
with Andy Chambers
Hidden ??/1990 Lead RP
Paul Clarke ??/1990 Lead
with Paul Greenland
Bruce Kerr 30/Aug/87 2nd
with Murray Hamilton
Neil McA 04/Jun/87 Lead O/S
with Martin Wilson, Beak 2
GaryM ??/1987 Lead O/S

A lot further to the top than it looks from below.

with Dale
Dave Musgrove 18/Apr/85 Lead β
Chris Craggs ??/1985 Lead
Dave Turnbull ?/May/84 Lead
Hidden 13/Aug/83 Lead O/S
Chris Craggs ?/Aug/81 Lead
with John Addy
Andy Nicholson ?/Jun/80 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 47
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set