18m.

Rockfax Description
Despite its name (so named because it lives off other routes), this is a great route that is better and harder than Mussel Beach. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Highly under rated and well worth 3 stars. Harder and longer than Mussel Beach with a fingery initial bulge followed by sustained crimpy crux passing the second bulge and a final hard press into the large side/pull undercut shared with Mussel Beach. Although significantly easier, the head wall passing the last 2 bolts is still challenging.

George Smith

Ticklists

UK 8a and up

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
felixwilkins 19 May, 2019 Lead RP
Jack Delaney 18 May, 2019 Lead RP
with Sam2257, Emily Barnett
with Sam2257, Emily Barnett
Hidden 19 Aug, 2018 Lead
Luke Brooks 14 Apr, 2018 Lead RP In a session. Did it with the start of Muscle Beach rather than traversing in from the right, both because the traverse was gopping and because its more direct. Ace route.
with Ollie
In a session. Did it with the start of Muscle Beach rather than traversing in from the right, both because the traverse was gopping and because its more direct. Ace route.
with Ollie
Hidden 4 Aug, 2016 Lead RP
Tophe 3 Jul, 2015 Lead RP
Ed Booth 26 Jun, 2015 Lead RP Poor flash go mucking around on slippy undercuts so dogged to top, next redpoint went ok but hadn't learnt crux well and some lingering gop. Did it 2nd RP and connives felt much better. Cool route. Second british 8a in a sesh.
with Jo Bertalot
Poor flash go mucking around on slippy undercuts so dogged to top, next redpoint went ok but hadn't learnt crux well and some lingering gop. Did it 2nd RP and connives felt much better. Cool route. Second british 8a in a sesh.
with Jo Bertalot
Hidden 5 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
Glyn 29 Apr, 2015 Lead RP Agree that it's better and possibly easier then muscle. Finish up the headwall is much more satisfying. Powerful cruexs with good rest in between. Shares couple of holds with statement
Agree that it's better and possibly easier then muscle. Finish up the headwall is much more satisfying. Powerful cruexs with good rest in between. Shares couple of holds with statement
Daz75 ??, 2015 -
ksjs 5 Jul, 2014 TR dog OK, getting a bit ridiculous. 2 more sessions max and that's all I'm allowed...
with Joe
OK, getting a bit ridiculous. 2 more sessions max and that's all I'm allowed...
with Joe
ksjs 2 Jul, 2014 Lead dog
with Joe C
with Joe C
ksjs 29 Jun, 2014 Lead dog
with Joe
with Joe
ksjs 25 Jun, 2014 Lead rpt Ahh! So close, really stupid mistake. Gone from really quite disliking what I found to be an awkward / morpho move and therefore the route to really rather loving this. Next session and then I will be sad when it's done...
with Matt
Ahh! So close, really stupid mistake. Gone from really quite disliking what I found to be an awkward / morpho move and therefore the route to really rather loving this. Next session and then I will be sad when it's done...
with Matt
ksjs 23 Jun, 2014 Lead dog
with rob
with rob
ksjs 15 May, 2014 Lead dog
with Joe C
with Joe C
Cailean Harker 12 Apr, 2014 Lead RP 2nd go. Cool sequence over second roof
with Ben West
2nd go. Cool sequence over second roof
with Ben West
ksjs 19 Jul, 2013 Lead dog
with rob
with rob
ksjs 5 May, 2013 Lead dog
with Joe C
with Joe C
midgets of the world unite 26 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S A rare gem - easier for the short. As good as Mussel Beach
A rare gem - easier for the short. As good as Mussel Beach
Ally Smith 2 Aug, 2012 Lead RP Great conditions on headwall. Felt steady in the end. Wearing dragons instead of Boosters made lots of difference.
with Dylan
Great conditions on headwall. Felt steady in the end. Wearing dragons instead of Boosters made lots of difference.
with Dylan
ksjs 2 Aug, 2012 Lead dog
with Emma T
with Emma T
westyb3 24 Jul, 2012 Lead RP 2nd go.
with _m.cox_
2nd go.
with _m.cox_
Ally Smith 21 Jul, 2012 Lead dog Rp'd thru crux but pinged off damp holds
Rp'd thru crux but pinged off damp holds
ksjs 15 Jul, 2012 Lead dog
with Jim
with Jim
Ally Smith 18 Jun, 2012 Lead dog
Ally Smith 12 May, 2012 Lead dog One dog and one RP, then had to run away for lunch date. 3*? Very doable - soft 8a. Easier than Mussel Beach?
with Owen
One dog and one RP, then had to run away for lunch date. 3*? Very doable - soft 8a. Easier than Mussel Beach?
with Owen
marky 4 May, 2012 Lead dnf Confusing crux - left or right? Could not work either out properly and abandoned ship before losing too much skin!
with Sharon
Confusing crux - left or right? Could not work either out properly and abandoned ship before losing too much skin!
with Sharon
ksjs 3 May, 2012 Lead dog
with owen
with owen
doylo 29 Jul, 2011 Lead RP 3rd rp overall
3rd rp overall
Hidden 6 Apr, 2011 Lead
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2010 -
JM 28 Oct, 2009 Lead RP
hutch 18 Aug, 2009 Lead RP
hamer89 23 May, 2009 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2009 -
5 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Onsighted
Not Set