Rockfax Description
A mega pitch that has three very different ways of climbing the crux. After fighting through the middle bulge and a leftward slanting overlap to a rest, the easiest method goes right and up, almost into Over the Moon Direct, before stretching back left. Going direct requires a huge span and there is a third option which goes out left, but it's probably 8a+. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Three ways to climb the crux: left is hard (8a+), direct is reachy (8a), and right is soft for 8a.

Chris Plant 1990

Ticklists

UK 8a and up

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
DeaNomNom 12 May Lead rpt
Jack Delaney 28 Apr Lead RP Right hand version
Right hand version
Ed Booth 3 Oct, 2018 Lead RP 2 dogs up while it was drying out, then did 1st RP. RH method so soft 8a. felt similar to the other 8a's around tho.
2 dogs up while it was drying out, then did 1st RP. RH method so soft 8a. felt similar to the other 8a's around tho.
Hidden 31 Jul, 2018 Lead RP
Hidden 23 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
Cassidy 11 Oct, 2015 Lead RP After an epic day of failure yesterday including smashing my skull of the rock (ouch) it went no problem today despite poorer conditions.
with Rob Sutton, Rich Emerson
After an epic day of failure yesterday including smashing my skull of the rock (ouch) it went no problem today despite poorer conditions.
with Rob Sutton, Rich Emerson
Glyn 8 Aug, 2014 Lead RP Bit of leg engineering required to get no hand knee bar pre crux! Amazing, bit like figure four. When right. Took about 4 redpoint, foot easily slips on crux
with Amy UT
Bit of leg engineering required to get no hand knee bar pre crux! Amazing, bit like figure four. When right. Took about 4 redpoint, foot easily slips on crux
with Amy UT
Ally Smith 6 Aug, 2012 Lead RP Out right and back method using fun and techy heel hooks.
Out right and back method using fun and techy heel hooks.
Ally Smith 2 Aug, 2012 Lead dog Worked out the lefthand method. Hard, but doable. Linked from flake to mono/bi-doigt pocket. Almost worked out straight up way too. Catch Rhand hold with thumb catch, but how to move up to Lhand flake from here?
with Dylan
Worked out the lefthand method. Hard, but doable. Linked from flake to mono/bi-doigt pocket. Almost worked out straight up way too. Catch Rhand hold with thumb catch, but how to move up to Lhand flake from here?
with Dylan
mux 28 Jul, 2012 Lead dog
westyb3 26 Jul, 2012 Lead RP 2nd go. cool route!
with _m.cox_
2nd go. cool route!
with _m.cox_
Ally Smith 24 Jul, 2012 Lead dog All the moves bar the odd catch move of the undercut/pinch by the crimpy sidepull (out right and back method) Could i get first undercut, then bounce heel onto crimpy/pinch thing, then into undercut nearer to big sidepull? Also, try catch method using an edging boot?
All the moves bar the odd catch move of the undercut/pinch by the crimpy sidepull (out right and back method) Could i get first undercut, then bounce heel onto crimpy/pinch thing, then into undercut nearer to big sidepull? Also, try catch method using an edging boot?
zero six ?Jul, 2012 Lead RP 2 sessions, RH way.
2 sessions, RH way.
Hidden 25 Jul, 2011 Lead RP
Jordan B 29 Apr, 2011 Lead RP 8a version
with Naomi Buys
8a version
with Naomi Buys
Adam Lincoln 27 May, 2010 Lead
with Chris Doyle
with Chris Doyle
Hidden ??, 2010 -
hamer89 12 Jun, 2009 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2009 -
Mike Owen 8 May, 1994 Lead RP Neil Grisham shouted "breathe" so I put in the knee bar, took my hands off, took a deep breath and carried on.
with Elaine Owen
Neil Grisham shouted "breathe" so I put in the knee bar, took my hands off, took a deep breath and carried on.
with Elaine Owen
stp ??, 1994 Lead RP Span dependent crux. Had enough span to do the easy way so only 7c+.
Span dependent crux. Had enough span to do the easy way so only 7c+.
Mick Lovatt ??, 1990 -
Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set