Rockfax Description
The longest route at Hound Tor follows the blunt overlap-infested arete on the left side of the face. Start below a ledge and cracks on the arete.
From the ledge make some steep moves up the cracks and then balance up and pull through the overhang to much easier ground above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The Rounded Arete overlooking the car park. Start from a ledge at the base of the climb and move through the short layback corner to a small exposed ledge and then continue up throuh the rounded breaks to the top.

Pete O'Sullivan, I Thomas Jun/1984

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Dartmoor punter fifty (ish) routes in a day, 40 For 40.

ACT 18/Nov Lead O/S
LukeWS 05/Nov Lead dog

Took a little while to work out the move from the initial crack, with an annoying rest required on gear, great move onto the little ledge when you figure it out though!

with Eva (German)
Gerben Neven 08/Oct Lead rpt
with Jay
Steve Jehu 26/Sep Lead O/S
with Ed Scott
Cbulman 02/Sep Lead O/S
Gerben Neven 02/Sep 2nd

After attempting the start multiple times I eventually managed to get past the crux. Did it again later on top-rope , using the undercling in the recess where the crack splits makes a big difference! Might give it a try on lead next time I visit

luke2107 22/Aug Lead O/S
with Azzy
G Weatherley 10/Aug 2nd O/S

Not the most elegant but fun

with Ed Walker
LoneDeranger 08/Jul Lead dnf
Mark Kemball 04/Jul 2nd
with Matt Gordon
Felix Ottey 17/Jun Lead O/S

I found placing the gear the crux!

Sharp94 12/Jun Lead

Just couldnt make the first pully move. one for next time.

Josh Butler 10/May Lead O/S
with Kyle Whitehand
Pete Burgess 04/May Lead
with simon tong
sinbad 04/May 2nd
with Pete
Zakko 31/Dec/16 Lead O/S

Fun route, reuben took a few lobs to test my belay!

with reuben
reubenhf 30/Dec/16 2nd dog
with Zak M
Sam4242 17/Dec/16 Lead O/S
LDJ 12/Oct/16 2nd
with Ollie
ollie1 12/Oct/16 Lead
cpoad 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with John S
Ben Cianchi 08/Sep/16 2nd
Matt Amos 08/Sep/16 Lead G/U
ad111 21/Aug/16 Lead G/U
Hidden 10/Aug/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 18/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Lilla Horvath 17/Jul/16 TR dog
with Will
Hidden 17/Jul/16 TR O/S
Yaz Abbas 12/Jul/16 Lead O/S

First HVS

ADJ85 08/Jun/16 Lead
with Tim
Hidden 13/May/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/May/16 Lead O/S
sinbad 12/May/16 2nd
with Pete
Rhys Deane ?/May/16 -
with Alfie Berry
stephen ashworth 24/Apr/16 2nd
with Alex cox
snook 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Few committed moves lower down. Placed gear and down climbed to get a decent rest then concentrated on getting my feet up after obtaining a decent fist jam. Easy top half. Decent route.

omaskrey 24/Feb/16 2nd O/S

Last route of the day and getting chilly. Tricky to start but great fun.

JoeCoxson 24/Feb/16 Lead O/S

Just as the guidebook says; couple of strong moves up the first section, then some bomber gear, surprisingly amenable moves over the second overlap, then easy up to the top.

R0BJ0N 14/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Jen Myo, Chris Holt
mjackson 13/Sep/15 2nd
Graham Westbrook 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
LJC 26/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Theo
theocelano 26/Aug/15 2nd
with luca
Hidden 12/Aug/15 2nd O/S
OllieF 11/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Quite a tricky start! Top effort by Chris!

with Chris Rees
cbonner 17/Jul/15 Lead O/S
petecallaghan 15/Jul/15 Lead dog
with Tim, Jamie T
timreynolds 15/Jul/15 2nd
Rob McGurk 20/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Handholds were sparse at about 2m. Decked out after a nut popped. I'll be back.

Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
dereke12000 06/Jun/15 2nd dog

Did not go well. Too used to limestone, crimping on granite crystals didn't seem to help here.

with Rob
smartydh9 26/May/15 Lead O/S
lmacey 19/Apr/15 -
timmyhobby 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
hannahbannana 06/Apr/15 2nd
Kemics 25/Mar/15 Lead O/S

I found the 5b move hard but the rest about vdiff so very unbalanced. Would be easy to deck onto ledge.

with Mel
alice fuller 31/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Didnt find it easy.lovely mild Halloween day.

matt_read 04/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Jack Southwood
supersouthward 04/Oct/14 -
SimonMarcYoung 15/Sep/14 2nd β
Dave Page 26/Aug/14 Lead dog
with Lenaya Page
HarryBowyer 16/Aug/14 2nd
fire_munki 25/Jul/14 2nd dog
Hidden 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/14 2nd rpt
DredStripe 19/Jul/14 Lead O/S
ChristyCole 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Dan
Hidden ?/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Neil Rigiani 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Harry Pearce
Hidden 09/Jun/14 Solo O/S
ray.allwood 06/Jun/14 2nd dog
Hidden 05/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead O/S
John Sheehan 31/May/14 2nd
with Sean Kelly, David Llewellyn
benjaminloveday 31/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/14 2nd
Sean Kelly 31/May/14 2nd
with David Llewellyn, John Sheehan
mark schramm 14/May/14 Lead
Chris Ebbutt 14/May/14 Lead
with Ben
KDSclimber 05/May/14 Lead dnf

Kieran lead until overhang then came off. Richard then lead to top & Reid from London seconded.

with Richard
foxjerk 05/May/14 Lead O/S

Single 5b move then fairly straight forward

with wiwwim
EcoClimber 05/May/14 AltLd RP

Kieran lead until overhang then came off. I then lead to top & Reid from London seconded.

Martin Bagshaw 04/May/14 Lead O/S
ipegg 04/May/14 2nd
Hidden 30/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden 11/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden ?/Dec/13 Lead O/S
mrteale 30/Nov/13 Solo
Ceridwen 24/Nov/13 2nd dog

Freezing cold day with frozen hands. Have climbed it before, in nicer conditions.

AlexD 24/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Ceri
Hidden 21/Jul/13 Lead
froglette 21/Jul/13 2nd dog
with John Proudfoot
andy_pemberton 17/Jul/13 Lead
with Sarah Massey
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S
phil456 04/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Mike Salt
Graham Atkins 17/May/13 Solo
mrteale 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Snorfalorpagus 06/May/13 2nd dog

Dogged up the hard part at the start.

with Matt Harwood
Rassapotimus 03/May/13 2nd dog


with will cattell
Motown ?/May/13 Lead rpt
with Sam
Motown 24/Apr/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 11/Feb/13 TR O/S
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
dparsons ??/2013 Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 11/Dec/12 Lead O/S
with Harvey, tj murry
Hidden 29/Sep/12 TR
Dan 85 29/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with Duncan, Dave
Matt250 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
dh7892 29/Sep/12 2nd β
suds_01 15/Sep/12 2nd
with Jamie
MarcT 09/Sep/12 Lead rpt

Somewhat draughty. Actually it was so windy that Nicky had a go, slipped off and was blown sideways like a spider on a thread. A warm wind though.

with Kerrie Mott
Dan 85 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Dave
iantoday 08/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Nathan
MarcT 05/Sep/12 2nd rpt

Cleanly led by Kim.

Kim Middlebrook 05/Sep/12 Lead

Love this climb!

nmott 28/Aug/12 2nd

Tried to lead but couldn't get beyond first move, got too pumped and let Marc take over!

nickstephens 18/Aug/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 02/Aug/12 Lead O/S
gg4419 ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Michael Aylen 22/Jul/12 Lead G/U

feel a few times on the first move but did it ground up in the end

Thinker01 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Becster
becster 21/Jul/12 2nd
tomwheeler 20/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Perm
MarcT 04/Jun/12 2nd rpt

Kim goes straight from S 4a to HVS 5b!

Kim Middlebrook ?/Jun/12 Lead


Tom Campbell 29/May/12 Lead O/S
cwildblood 28/May/12 Lead dnf

got to thin crack below overhang, pysched and fell! Got to come back and get the route!

MarcT 26/May/12 Lead β

First visit in 2012 and went smoothly.

nmott 26/May/12 2nd
Jack J Keogan 25/May/12 Lead O/S

First climb above S! Enjoyable, only hard moves in the first section. Loads of rests, need cams next time!

Hidden 25/May/12 2nd dnf
aljezurusrf08 19/May/12 2nd dog
with Willow
JamesBrowning 18/May/12 2nd dog
with Toby
Hidden 18/May/12 Lead
Mr Tickle 02/May/12 Lead O/S
with Ian
Hidden 02/May/12 2nd
martin clarke 31/Mar/12 2nd
stephen ashworth 31/Mar/12 Lead
with martin clarke
Hidden ??/2012 2nd O/S
Stone Muppet 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S

You know what, sod it, this felt like E1. I feel more qualified to comment in this case because unlike most things on the day, I actually climbed it clean. Yes, the gear is good and the crux short, but the moves are hard!

with bc, md
mattshort 11/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with Phil Porter
Duncan Turner 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Duncan Turner 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead dnf
Ceridwen 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Andy Mosienko
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
mark schramm 21/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/11 Lead RP
abicampbell 22/Jun/11 Solo
petecallaghan 08/Jun/11 Lead
mark schramm 08/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Chaman
Chaman 08/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Neil Rigiani 08/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Nice climb, although we seemed to start slightly to the right of the route described in SD&D. The crux was therefore a couple of metres into the climb with a couple of delicate moves.

waydan ?/Jun/11 2nd O/S
jon_gill1 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/11 2nd O/S
Homes 15/May/11 2nd
with Leo
jo86 15/May/11 Lead dnf

feel just a little bit below the roof, small hex held me and i ended up upside down with my head just above the ledge

jcook1980 15/May/11 Lead
with Sam A
leohl 15/May/11 Lead O/S
tom169 02/May/11 Lead O/S
with James B
Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead
Jim Brooke 23/Apr/11 2nd
richsmithinbristol 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
mreynolds 21/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Helnorris 21/Apr/11 2nd

Very pumpy climbing, agree with steve, pitty about the final section.

timreynolds 21/Apr/11 Lead
stvredmond 21/Apr/11 Lead

good first 10m, shame about the last 10m's. strenuous climbing on bomber kit

haylow 10/Apr/11 2nd
jakenichol 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
abicampbell ?/Apr/11 TR O/S
Shancock1 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
sdeal 27/Mar/11 2nd
Joe Richards 22/Mar/11 TR rpt
Joe Richards 05/Mar/11 TR O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead dog
Chipster ?/Mar/11 2nd
Spence22 ?/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with Simon
Fatboy1000 ??/2011 2nd O/S

Deceiving start...enjoyed it tho

with crispin
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2011 Solo O/S
Ed morris 13/Dec/10 Lead O/S
with ewan
Hidden 08/Sep/10 TR
georgedunton 08/Sep/10 TR
pielander 02/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 02/Sep/10 Lead O/S
mike_lumby ?/Sep/10 TR
MarkRyder 06/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with James P
jamespilgrim 06/Aug/10 2nd

A bit of a struggle for the first route of the evening

with Mark
nickstephens 10/Jul/10 Lead dog

Silly stretched out move up onto the block after missing a decent hold. Back climbing to a more comfortable less-prone position was my undoing :-(

ecowaller 31/May/10 Solo
Hidden 25/May/10 2nd O/S
iantoday 25/May/10 Lead dog


Dave89 18/Oct/09 Lead
with Chris k, Matt, Tash
jchenoweth 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Brian
peterbrett 18/Oct/09 2nd dog
mattshort 18/Oct/09 2nd
Hidden 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/May/09 Lead
JWB 23/May/09 2nd
Natalie77 10/Apr/09 TR
r.greaves 10/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with John Beddard
Justin T 26/Jul/08 Lead β
with Crispin
Hidden 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/08 Lead β
Luke90 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Callum
sharmawho? 14/Apr/08 Solo O/S
nutcracker ?/Mar/08 Lead
sharmawho? ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Oli, Chris, Nick , Dave
dewrats ??/2008 -
Noodles30 ?/Oct/07 TR
misterb 05/Sep/07 Lead O/S

hard moves to start with good gear then only severe climbing after that

with simon
w.pettet-smith ?/Aug/07 2nd

took fookin ages to get a hex out. i hate seconding.

with neighbour martin
eugeneth 29/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Chris M
prawn ?/Jun/07 2nd
with Graham
Hidden ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
climber sim ??/2007 -
Hidden 31/May/06 2nd O/S
eddy-on-the-rocks 02/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Ben
ElvisLeg 01/May/05 2nd O/S
goi.ashmore 22/Oct/02 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Macca_7 03/May/02 Lead O/S
with Ann Fisher
Hidden 02/Nov/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Mickdenali ??/1999 Lead O/S
clark alston ?/Jul/98 Lead

2nd previously.

with Simon Cook
Hidden 29/May/97 2nd
andrewlegg ??/1996 TR O/S
colin milton 25/Jun/95 Lead
with eric milton
bleddynmawr ??/1986 -
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 39
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set