Rockfax Description
The three small overhangs right of Western Front Direct. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The fourth sport climb in this section. often overlooked but great climbing. The crux above the second roof is thin and very pumpy for a slab. Definitely a notch harder than W.F.D.

M Crocker, R Thomas 29/Oct/1988

Ticklists

South Wales Sevens, Rockfax South Wales Sandstone Graded List

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Petar Samkov 28 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Second go , pretty cool moves on the crux. Don’t be scared of the grade if you’ve done some of the 6c’s to the left you got pretty good chances.Get on it it’s good one !
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Second go , pretty cool moves on the crux. Don’t be scared of the grade if you’ve done some of the 6c’s to the left you got pretty good chances.Get on it it’s good one !
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
fammer 6 Oct Lead RP Got this surprisingly quickly, dogged it to get the draws in and the rope up, top roped it once and got a sequence then got it clean first RP. Great route, probably not quite as good as western front as the difficulties aren't so sustained - it's only about 4 hard moves at the second overlap; the rest is fairly straightforward.
with Anzama
Got this surprisingly quickly, dogged it to get the draws in and the rope up, top roped it once and got a sequence then got it clean first RP. Great route, probably not quite as good as western front as the difficulties aren't so sustained - it's only about 4 hard moves at the second overlap; the rest is fairly straightforward.
with Anzama
Hidden 1 Sep Lead dog
james n 21 Jul Lead RP A one move wonder, second try
A one move wonder, second try
Ian Bell 21 Jul Lead dog
Ian Bell 21 Jul Lead dog
Ian Bell 21 Jul Lead dog
rowland penty 12 May Lead RP Second go. Very cruxy.
with Emma
Second go. Very cruxy.
with Emma
Max Lowry 4 May Lead O/S Thought this was much better than Western Front Direct:)
Thought this was much better than Western Front Direct:)
thunderstruck 4 May Lead dog
Ignas Va 4 May Lead RP
liucija.lat 4 May TR dog
Petar Samkov 28 Apr Lead RP
Hidden 13 Apr Lead RP
Hidden 10 Apr TR dog
adamsriches 7 Apr Lead dnf Felt thin and hard through the crux
Felt thin and hard through the crux
eddieclimb 30 Sep, 2018 Lead β Tough Onsight...
with Rich Smith, DanielW
Tough Onsight...
with Rich Smith, DanielW
richsmithinbristol 30 Sep, 2018 Lead RP With the right sequence this a lovely slab on solid holds.
With the right sequence this a lovely slab on solid holds.
Alas.d.air21 25 Aug, 2018 Lead dog
robbielee1 25 Aug, 2018 2nd
with Alas.d.air21, Lottie Walker
with Alas.d.air21, Lottie Walker
waynekinrade 25 Aug, 2018 Lead β
with PaulG90
with PaulG90
robbielee1 25 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf
with Lottie Walker, Alas.d.air21
with Lottie Walker, Alas.d.air21
FelixPeterken 17 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf Looks like a hold has broken off, makes the bit between the roofs reliant on tiny crimps, had to stand in a sling to get past.
Looks like a hold has broken off, makes the bit between the roofs reliant on tiny crimps, had to stand in a sling to get past.
richsmithinbristol 10 Jun, 2018 Lead dog Wrong trousers. Annoying.
Wrong trousers. Annoying.
RosieYates 1 Apr, 2018 Lead dnf Climbed up to the second roof just fine, but bust a tip on the tiny crimps while trying to get the foot up. No creaky flake in sight.
Climbed up to the second roof just fine, but bust a tip on the tiny crimps while trying to get the foot up. No creaky flake in sight.
Bethangriffith 1 Apr, 2018 Lead dnf
Hidden ?Apr, 2018 Lead β
julesmckim 1 Dec, 2017 Lead O/S Yes! No chalk or ticks - pleased with the onsight. A couple of hard moves with rests inbetween. Crux felt very hard - thin pulling on a creaky flake and a real effort to get a foot up.
Yes! No chalk or ticks - pleased with the onsight. A couple of hard moves with rests inbetween. Crux felt very hard - thin pulling on a creaky flake and a real effort to get a foot up.
just one more 5 Oct, 2017 Lead dog Pulled a creaky crimp off on the crux. Good moves but pretty friable
with vertigo
Pulled a creaky crimp off on the crux. Good moves but pretty friable
with vertigo
Hidden 29 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf
Tomar 7 May, 2017 Lead RP 1st RP. Dropped it on the flash after the crux, what a waste! Good route
with Toby
1st RP. Dropped it on the flash after the crux, what a waste! Good route
with Toby
tobydunford 7 May, 2017 Lead RP
with Tomar
with Tomar
David Clover 7 May, 2017 Lead RP 1st redpoint
1st redpoint
Paulo803 27 Apr, 2017 Lead dnf
mop449 7 Apr, 2017 Lead β Hardest ever flash. Chalk on the holds and beta makes it so much easier!
Hardest ever flash. Chalk on the holds and beta makes it so much easier!
joe1joe1joe2 7 Apr, 2017 Lead RP Tough one to onsight. No chalk on the route at all. And finding the crimps over the middle roof is hard when no chalk. Climbed on 2nd attempt.
Tough one to onsight. No chalk on the route at all. And finding the crimps over the middle roof is hard when no chalk. Climbed on 2nd attempt.
dom_joyce265 7 Apr, 2017 Lead β Crimps are freakin' tiny but solid.
Crimps are freakin' tiny but solid.
dom_joyce265 7 Apr, 2017 Lead β
dom_joyce265 7 Apr, 2017 Lead β
DorsetGareth 25 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
with Wise
with Wise
Wise 25 Mar, 2017 Lead RP Just one hard move really above the second roof on creaky holds.
Just one hard move really above the second roof on creaky holds.
Kyuzo ?Jan, 2017 -
climb62 ??, 2017 -
Carl Watkins 28 Dec, 2016 Lead dog
partz 10 Sep, 2016 Lead β With homers beta and ticks
with CLedden
With homers beta and ticks
with CLedden
Hidden 10 Sep, 2016 Lead RP
Hidden 22 Jun, 2016 TR dog
simo 21 Jun, 2015 Lead rpt
with Pavol
with Pavol
richiebongo 4 Jun, 2015 Lead RP !st redpoint. Top half is great climbing with a nails rockover crux.
with paul, Nick Smith, Jon Didymus
!st redpoint. Top half is great climbing with a nails rockover crux.
with paul, Nick Smith, Jon Didymus
simo 12 Feb, 2015 Lead RP
tommccluskey 8 Feb, 2015 Lead RP
simo 7 Feb, 2015 Lead dog
guy xavier percival 2 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Really good with just a short hard section
with paul
Really good with just a short hard section
with paul
Ricky Rocks 18 Jun, 2014 Lead β
dannygale 12 May, 2014 Lead RP
with simo
with simo
gingernick ?May, 2014 Lead dog
with 19Dan82
with 19Dan82
J1_TOV 8 Jun, 2013 Lead RP 3rd attempt. Great fun route.
3rd attempt. Great fun route.
dannygale 11 Dec, 2012 Lead dog Tough climb to onsight, need to learn the crux section to get it clean
Tough climb to onsight, need to learn the crux section to get it clean
Billg 11 Mar, 2012 Lead RP
with Bob Brewer
with Bob Brewer
Hidden 16 Feb, 2008 Lead RP
shoulders 11 Nov, 2007 Lead
Hidden 21 Aug, 2007 Lead RP
Hidden 6 Feb, 2007 Lead RP
goi.ashmore 14 Aug, 1997 Lead RP
with James Tracey
with James Tracey
Cowflinger 13 Jun, 1992 -
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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set