43m.

Rockfax Description
A great route; one of the better E5s in the quarries, though still a serious one. Start below the stepped roofs and ascend the groove under them until you can make a move left to go up to an iron spike. Gain and follow the sustained flake until bolts can be seen above and right on Igam-Ogam (p.§§§). Either move out to these and climb to the top (safe but hard), or continue up to a rest and poor gear. Trend up and left to a sloping ledge on the edge of the buttress and make your way very boldly to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An interesting route with a small iron spike for the crux. Climb desperately to the spike. Make a hard move to gain height above it up to a rest point (try not to fall onto spike as this will change your sexual orientation). Go up rib to overlap the follow the line of hold to the left of the arete. You can potentially use the bolts on Igam Ogam for protection. Take a second rope to belay at the top.

M E Crook, N Walton, AD Newton Feb/1984

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, a State of Slate, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Bold Slate routes

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 20 Apr Lead RP
anguskille 20 Apr Lead β Great stuff
with Dom
Great stuff
with Dom
Hidden 19 Apr TR
Hidden 16 Apr TR
Hidden 21 Mar Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 17 Dec, 2016 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 17 Dec, 2016 Lead O/S Run out on marginal gear, frightening, trouser filling type 2 fun. This one is quite special as its without a single bolt unlike trad routes earlier on and had a thank f*** moment when I managed to lasso the short metal spike with the rope - probably the only piece I fully trusted!
Run out on marginal gear, frightening, trouser filling type 2 fun. This one is quite special as its without a single bolt unlike trad routes earlier on and had a thank f*** moment when I managed to lasso the short metal spike with the rope - probably the only piece I fully trusted!
Mike Goldthorp 8 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Steady away but definitely bold, little brass offsets handy above the spike... Started raining just as I got to the easy ground near the top, lucky!
with Adam
Steady away but definitely bold, little brass offsets handy above the spike... Started raining just as I got to the easy ground near the top, lucky!
with Adam
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Ed morris 7 Feb, 2015 Lead O/S
with Dickon
with Dickon
tim newton 11 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with mike grant
with mike grant
BenRyle 12 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S Tidy.
Tidy.
Dan Hale 12 Nov, 2013 2nd O/S A great lead by Ben. Simple enough but frightening run outs/gear
with BenRyle
A great lead by Ben. Simple enough but frightening run outs/gear
with BenRyle
wolf.leeb 2 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Great climbing albeit above very spaced and marginal kit..
with Alexis, jo
Great climbing albeit above very spaced and marginal kit..
with Alexis, jo
Ed Booth 14 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S Ace route. bold but steady!
with Ben Alsford
Ace route. bold but steady!
with Ben Alsford
feilx 9 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with La Mont
with La Mont
dannyboy83 9 Jul, 2011 2nd
with feilx
with feilx
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Alex Mason 7 Nov, 2010 Lead O/S Had tried before but it rained. Lassoed the spike from good footholds below. Above this its scary for a while, a few sketchy rp's and a decent rock1 out left. BETA* decent rps above the spike*
with Gwen Lancashire, Duncan Campbell
Had tried before but it rained. Lassoed the spike from good footholds below. Above this its scary for a while, a few sketchy rp's and a decent rock1 out left. BETA* decent rps above the spike*
with Gwen Lancashire, Duncan Campbell
soph 1 Jan, 2010 2nd O/S
with Dan McManus
with Dan McManus
JulesV 26 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S Ruuuuuuuuuuuuuuuunnn ouuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuutttt!....
with Shauna Cunningham
Ruuuuuuuuuuuuuuuunnn ouuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuutttt!....
with Shauna Cunningham
IOAN D 13 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with ollie
with ollie
Hidden ??, 2006 TR dog
Dringo ??, 2005 -
Steve Crowe 26 Aug, 2001 Lead O/S
liabilityliz 6 Jul, 1999 TR
with Mark Trepte
with Mark Trepte
MJclimb ??, 1996 Lead O/S The day the peg flake came off (20 feet above the spike)! Slightly emotional reversing from the flake to the ground to maintain the onsight, when it wobbled and I wobbled! Before removing the flake and going for it again.
with Clive Stephenson
The day the peg flake came off (20 feet above the spike)! Slightly emotional reversing from the flake to the ground to maintain the onsight, when it wobbled and I wobbled! Before removing the flake and going for it again.
with Clive Stephenson
adi bryant ??, 1994 Lead O/S
tlr 23 Oct, 1993 2nd
with Adrian
with Adrian
chrisdavies ??, 1990 Lead
Steve Walker ??, 1990 Lead
Hidden 3 Jul, 1989 Lead
Mike Owen 10 May, 1987 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
mark mcgowan01 ??, 1985 -
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Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set