Rockfax Description
A great route, and one of the better E5s in the quarries, although still a serious one. Start below the stepped roofs and ascend the groove under them until you can make a move left to go up to an iron spike. Gain and follow the sustained flake up until bolts can be seen above and right on Igam Ogam (not described). Either move up to these and climb to the top (safer but harder) or move up to a rest and poor gear. Then trend up and left to a sloping ledge on the edge of the buttress and make your way very boldly to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An interesting route with a small iron spike for the crux. Climb desperately to the spike. Make a hard move to gain height above it up to a rest point (try not to fall onto spike as this will change your sexual orientation). Go up rib to overlap the follow the line of hold to the left of the arete. You can potentially use the bolts on Igam Ogam for protection. Take a second rope to belay at the top.

M E Crook, N Walton, AD Newton Feb/1984

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, a State of Slate, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Bold Slate routes.

JenShelley 17/Dec/16 2nd O/S
FlavioL1989 17/Dec/16 Lead O/S

Run out on marginal gear, frightening, trouser filling type 2 fun. This one is quite special as its without a single bolt unlike trad routes earlier on and had a thank f*** moment when I managed to lasso the short metal spike with the rope - probably the only piece I fully trusted!

Mike Goldthorp 08/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Steady away but definitely bold, little brass offsets handy above the spike... Started raining just as I got to the easy ground near the top, lucky!

with Adam
Hidden ??/2016 -
Ed morris 07/Feb/15 Lead O/S
with Dickon
tim newton 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with mike grant
BenRyle 12/Nov/13 Lead O/S


with Dan
Dan724 12/Nov/13 2nd O/S

A great lead by Ben. Simple enough but frightening run outs/gear

wolf.leeb 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Great climbing albeit above very spaced and marginal kit..

with Alexis, jo
Ed Booth 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Ace route. bold but steady!

with Ben Alsford
feilx 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Andy L
dannyboy83 09/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Alex Mason 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Had tried before but it rained. Lassoed the spike from good footholds below. Above this its scary for a while, a few sketchy rp's and a decent rock1 out left. BETA* decent rps above the spike*

with Gwen Lancashire, Duncan Campbell
soph 01/Jan/10 2nd O/S
with Dan McManus
JulesV 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Ruuuuuuuuuuuuuuuunnn ouuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuutttt!....

with Shauna Cunningham
IOAN D 13/May/08 Lead O/S
with ollie
Hidden ??/2006 TR dog
Dringo ??/2005 -
Steve Crowe 26/Aug/01 Lead O/S
liabilityliz 06/Jul/99 TR
with Mark Trepte
MJclimb ??/1996 Lead O/S

The day the peg flake came off (20 feet above the spike)! Slightly emotional reversing from the flake to the ground to maintain the onsight, when it wobbled and I wobbled! Before removing the flake and going for it again.

with Clive Stephenson
adi bryant ??/1994 Lead O/S
tlr 23/Oct/93 2nd
with Adrian
chrisdavies ??/1990 Lead
Steve Walker ??/1990 Lead
Mike Owen 10/May/87 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
mark mcgowan01 ??/1985 -
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