UKC

Restricted Access

Part of the crag falls within the fall of shot zone for the rifle rage below the crag run by Lydgate Rifle & Pistol Club and frequently used by Police firearms units, so it is very important that all visiting climbers understand the access agreement for their own safety:

  • From The Rostrum rightwards inclusive, falls outside of the fall of shot zone and is on Open Access land, meaning there is free and open access to this part of the crag at all times.
  • Left of The Rostrum is the fall of shot zone from the rifle range below where large calibre firearms are frequently used. For safety reasons, access is only allowed to this part of the crag (and Deer Hill Moss behind) on Friday after 6pm year round when shooting should not be happening.
  • With that said, if red flags are flying on a Friday evening, don't chance it and stray into the fall of shot zone. Likewise, shooting can take place at any time during the day, so just because shooting isn't happening when you turn up, don't be tempted to use the left side of the crag on other days.
26m. Start up the arĂȘte just to the left of Crescendo to gain the ledge below the bolt ladder from the left. Clip the pegs/bolts and go diagonally rightwards via a small flat hold on the arete to gain a large jug above the scoop to the right and swing back left to gain a standing position under the roof. Escape rightwards around the corner to gain the finishing traverse of Sweatyman. Finish direct.
First recorded accent Graeme Hammond & Richard Williams 14/6/2020 but may have been climbed previously.

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Route of Interest
The Main Wall Girdle

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Hetchell)

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