UKC

Climbs 114
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 432m a.s.l
Faces N

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Alex on Cool Man's Wall © grubes

Crag features

A long abandoned quarry overlooking the town of Marsden, to the southwest of Huddersfield. The quarry is very extensive and would make one of the most impressive venues hereabouts if it wasn't for the fact that it is north-facing, with some loose rock around and some access issues.

The crag almost faces due north and is at its best on warm summer evenings or as an escape from the heat of summer. A few of the buttresses protrude far enough to catch the afternoon sun and one wall of The Rostrum is the most notable of these. The crag is green and unattractive in the winter and is best avoided.

Approach notes

There is parking by the southeast corner of the dam - the signs indicate that the road is private (water board) but the local dog walkers and bird watchers certainly use it. The old quarry tracks lead into the left-hand end of the workings. Parking further down the road by the no access sign adds about 10 minutes to the approach. Alternatively, park on the side of the A6107 Meltham Road, just east of Marsden and follow the public Right of Way that runs up the old quarry road across the moor all the way to the quarry. From the dam, the approach takes 20 minutes, from the other two parking spots, 30 minutes.

 

NO ACCESS TO PARKING - LOCKED GATE JUST BEFORE RESEVOIR

Restricted Access

Part of the crag falls within the fall of shot zone for the rifle rage below the crag run by Lydgate Rifle & Pistol Club and frequently used by Police firearms units, so it is very important that all visiting climbers understand the access agreement for their own safety:

  • From The Rostrum rightwards inclusive, falls outside of the fall of shot zone and is on Open Access land, meaning there is free and open access to this part of the crag at all times.
  • Left of The Rostrum is the fall of shot zone from the rifle range below where large calibre firearms are frequently used. For safety reasons, access is only allowed to this part of the crag (and Deer Hill Moss behind) on Friday after 6pm year round when shooting should not be happening.
  • With that said, if red flags are flying on a Friday evening, don't chance it and stray into the fall of shot zone. Likewise, shooting can take place at any time during the day, so just because shooting isn't happening when you turn up, don't be tempted to use the left side of the crag on other days.
Gate on the road leading to the gun club locked (two non-combination padlocks) yesterday. No evidence of the waymarking mentioned in Over The Moors on the approach path either.
cheque - 15/Dec/19
I had the same experience as Philip
Cake - 15/May/19
Had trouble attempting to park at the gun club on 27/02/19, in that the access gate was locked with two padlocks. Didn't notice them to be combination locks as another commenter has mentioned but regardless it meant we had to drive around to Marsden and walk up from there which was fine and added only maybe 10/15 minutes on. Can anyone confirm access arrangements via the gun club?
mrphilipoldham - 28/Feb/19
If climbers wish to park at the gun club there is a locked gate with a combination lock and I was told by gun club members that if I wished to enter I had to contact the BMC for the code. Also members of the gun club seem to be under the impression that Shooter's Nab can only be accessed by members of the BMC.
Deezel65 - 27/Jun/15
Ricochet Wall and Sweatyman are the best routes in the Huddersfield area and stand up to anything in the Peak.
Hardonicus - 15/Aug/08
This is where it all started for me back in about 1974. Although only a small section feels properly crag like, this palce has lots of atmosphere and some good routes. A classic at what was VD but is now HS is Rifleman\'s Chimney (I used to do it as a multi pitch as we were using short polypropolene ropes!!!). Also recommnded is Sweatyman which was VS+ which inludes a stomach traverse. Not sure about access these days, but am about to re-visit.
mike newman - 13/Aug/02
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