UKC

Restricted Access

The site is part of a Local Nature Reserve and the quarry floor below Main Wall provides an important orchid habitat - please avoid this area from April-June inclusive.

There is a bolting agreement for some agreed routes from Modern Wall rightwards, any future bolting development needs to be discussed with the local BMC access rep and potentially the landowner before any work.

The roof of the cave left of Gouffle is thought to be unstable and is being monitored by Lancashire County Council. Please take care not to damage the rock or indicators measuring any movement. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 14 February to 1 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

During the nesting season each year, climbing in Warton Main is restricted for the whole quarry including the Terrace, to prevent disturbance of peregrines and other birds. Thank you for following the restrictions. The BMC has a good relationship with interested parties locally, birds are actively monitored and if fledging birds allow, the restrictions will be lifted early and this page updated.

 

50m. Great climb although the route is serious in its mid section with protection from a peg and in-situ thread (replaced 27/07/22). Follow Third World then move right onto the slab higher than would be traversed for Deceptive Bends. Head first for a peg, then the thread, then traverse across to DB and join this route below the overlap at a good rest. Climb upto (old peg) and leftwards over the bulge then a really airy step right gains the hanging arĂȘte and easier climbing leads to the top and hopefully the rope you left in place.

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High E4
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
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Route of Interest
Mein Kampf

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Deeply Vale)

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