75m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The superb icy route has a wonderful first pitch and a great chimney to finish.
1) 3, 30m. Climb the river of ice, wherever it has formed best, to belay beneath the chimney on the left..
2) 3, 45m. The chimney leads to an easy gully. © Rockfax

mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
gravity 06/Apr/13 2nd
with George, David
Binder 06/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

I led p1. Bit creaky in places.

with David B, Toby
Hidden 03/Apr/13 AltLd
Hidden 03/Apr/13 AltLd
Katex 02/Apr/13 2nd O/S

Beautiful day. Stunning icy, snowy weather and blue skies

with Simon Edwards
Hidden 30/Mar/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 24/Jan/13 2nd
JamesWilliams 24/Jan/13 Lead O/S

Very bold first pitch, ice a bit thin and rotten just before the belay. Mixed Chimney felt much easier!

with Steve Davo
cragtyke 23/Jan/13 AltLd

led 1st pitch, continually interesting, tricky in places, average gear. really good.

bobpilgrem 23/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Good lead by John on P1-a bit thin in places and quite bold.Lead chimney P2 which felt much easier and with bomber gear.

with John
Danjones 22/Jan/13 AltLd dnf

Fell 15' or so and broke leg on lower part of route! Ice screw held, but route not in good condition and axes and crampons lost grip! Raf rescue to Ysbyty Gwynedd!

with Gerallt
Nick Russell 19/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

A good, varied climb. Ice a bit soft on P1 (Steve's lead) and a fun mixed chimney to the top.

SJS 19/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

I led the first pitch, which with quite thin ice and after some heavy snow was quite spicy. Nick took pitch 2, which in the conditions turned out to be quite an interesting mixed chimney. A lot of variety.

with Nick
Hidden ?/Jan/13 -
ash longreach ?/Jan/13 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 25/Dec/10 2nd
caradoc 24/Dec/10 Solo

Intimidating, brittle in places and steeper than it looked from below.

Hidden 19/Dec/10 Lead dnf
inuklm 05/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
with Dave Gent
chadrads 05/Dec/10 2nd O/S
with andy chapman
AB1965 05/Dec/10 AltLd

Thin/ bare in the middle, a bit higher up. very necky for a grade three leader, not technical difficult but bold. top chimney pitch was great

with Rich Ball
bob johnson 05/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
with Bram
timjones 04/Dec/10 AltLd
Hidden 04/Dec/10 Lead O/S
ruaidh 04/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Thanks for the bonus route, Tim. Never did see you in Tyn y Coed, so you still owe me a pint!

with Unknown Tim
Diggler 03/Dec/10 Lead O/S


with Johnny
tunaficiency ?/Dec/10 2nd O/S

stu led me and matt up horrible conditions

Tim Sparrow ?/Dec/10 Solo
Ally Smith ?/Dec/10 Solo
Hidden 08/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
groovy_nut 13/Jan/10 Lead rpt
with Chris
farmus21 11/Jan/10 AltLd

Lead the chimney pitch, short lived but fun.

smallerrich 11/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch, pretty throughly hacked.

with James
Hidden 10/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 10/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Laurenece lead the first/hardest pitch to the right of where it normally goes. I then lead a chimney move then up the groove, the rope literally froze to an ice feature some bloke leading past had to attack with an ice axe to free it!

with Laurence King
jimorothy 10/Jan/10 Lead

Bit of a queue but worth it. Amazing ice - too good for my Harrer-era crampons.

with Rachel Crolla
Hidden 10/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
spidey 10/Jan/10 AltLd

lead first and last section.

Hidden 09/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
LardClimber 09/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Williams
Hidden 09/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
climbing_wiggy 09/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

led 1st pitch

with Leon
Bex_M 09/Jan/10 2nd
with Duncan Dunbar
m0untainman 08/Jan/10 Lead O/S

Led the whole climb with partner Hewin aka Dan, one scary moment just before I got to the first belay when my axe popped out of a dodgy placement. An excellent route with an amazing sunset and pink snow in the distance on the final belay.

RCrockford 08/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
with Andy M
Hewin 08/Jan/10 2nd O/S

Me & Chris Ellis - Difficult move round bulge early on first pitch and steepens before ending P1. P2 through small gulley, much easier. Beautiful day, alpine like.

geoff b 07/Jan/10 AltLd

An after-work torch-light ascent. I remember a lack of gear, except some poor ice screws, until the belay at the top of P1!

Noodles 07/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Wicked end to the day. Met Miles and Ben on the route and finished just as twilight set in.

Jillybean 07/Jan/10 AltLd

amazing, finished as the stars were coming out :)

with Martyn
Hidden 07/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Liam FLeming 06/Jan/10 -
with john bunney
Hidden 06/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
bob johnson 05/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
with Al Borrett
Rhys Jones 04/Jan/10 Solo
Mattilda 04/Jan/10 AltLd
with Lauren
Bram 04/Jan/10 Solo
groovy_nut 04/Jan/10 AltLd

Great route, sadly ruined for me by the team of three somewhat out of their depth soloists ahead of us taking far, far longer than any roped team ever would have, and hacking away most of the ice despite the route being more than possible to climb entirely on hooks - a constant stream of debris falling all over the descent path with a rather large chunk hitting me directly in the head. Big dent in an expensive helmet but thankfully no injury.

with Matt K
Hidden 04/Jan/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 03/Jan/10 Solo
thecurlyone 03/Jan/10 AltLd

I did P1. Good ice, though most of the ice screw placements had already been made. Some places looked like cheese. Short interestign chimney at the top.

with Dave Smith
Hidden 02/Jan/10 AltLd
Misha 02/Jan/10 Solo O/S

Easy, plastic ice on P1 and fun but short mixed section in the chimney on P2. 1st solo of the day.

vincentvega 02/Jan/10 AltLd
with danny robb
Monkey_Alan 02/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Led chimney pitch.

Hidden 02/Jan/10 Solo
RachelP 02/Jan/10 2nd

finished in the dark - awesome day out!

with Chris
Hidden ?/Jan/10 -
TheAndyBarker ?/Jan/10 AltLd
with Jonny Herbert
Hidden ?/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Patrick803 ??/2010 AltLd
with Jeremy Windsor
tim20 ??/2010 -
Karlos 09/Feb/09 AltLd

Lovely route. Started slightly higher due to thin conditions lower down. Difficult move left onto main icefall, but easy angled and difficulties concentrated to a couple of committing steps. Belayed in steep gully and seconded final pitch.

with Tom
nickcanute 07/Feb/09 AltLd
with tim parkinson
feilx 07/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
with Floris & Mike
Hidden ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S
aged_ape ?/Jan/03 AltLd O/S
with Rob T
Hidden 07/Jan/01 Lead O/S
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