80m, 3 pitches.
P1, 40 m. Takes the prominent crack, bulging chimney and overhang towards the upper end of the main buttress. Two variants: Direct; (E3 5c: FA H. Walmsley, M. Bailey, 21/09/20): follow the main line all the way up the cracks, bulging chimney, groove, overhang and upper crack to a step right and up to a heather ledge. Step right and up the short wall to higher ledges. Move left to belays. Original (E2 5c); move left round the arete just below the overhang, climb a crack via a long reach and step up right to regain the main line.
P2, 25 m, E3 5c. Line and protection obscure. Gain a flat-topped block. Step up and trend left up a shallow groove to a poorly-protected exit on to a slab,. Climb up and right to its apex. Place a cluster of gear (some out right) and make a committing step up on to a ramp. Shuffle slightly right and continue up the wall, soon easing, to block belays on a shoulder.
P3, 15 m. Climb easily to the top
P2, 25 m, E3 5c. Line and protection obscure. Gain a flat-topped block. Step up and trend left up a shallow groove to a poorly-protected exit on to a slab,. Climb up and right to its apex. Place a cluster of gear (some out right) and make a committing step up on to a ramp. Shuffle slightly right and continue up the wall, soon easing, to block belays on a shoulder.
P3, 15 m. Climb easily to the top
Harold Walmsley, Chris Calow, Rick Newcombe 14/Sep/2020.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| harold walmsley | 28 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: The E3 grade is for p2 where both reliable protection and the easiest sequence are obscure and hard to find (both seconds failed to find the easiest sequence and did it by what they thought were 5c moves). If you get everything just right it may feel easier. It is also possible to do p1 on its own followed by a roped scramble to a fixed ab point over to the left. This gives a good, well-protected single pitch of 40 m, probably low-end E2 by the original line and a bit harder direct. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: The E3 grade is for p2 where both reliable protection and the easiest sequence are obscure and hard to find (both seconds failed to find the easiest sequence and did it by what they thought were 5c moves). If you get everything just right it may feel easier. It is also possible to do p1 on its own followed by a roped scramble to a fixed ab point over to the left. This gives a good, well-protected single pitch of 40 m, probably low-end E2 by the original line and a bit harder direct. |
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Route of Interest
Cripple Creek
Grade: E3 5b ***
(Craig Doris)