Rockfax Description
A fantastic bold and exposed route with some technical climbing and a grand finale.
1) and 2) As for Subsidiary Grooves.
3) 5c, 18m. Climb the technical groove above the stance which is best gained from the left. Belay in a large triangular bay.
4) 5b, 15m. Follow the corner behind the bay, exit right and go down to a spike belay.
5) 5c, 20m. Go directly up the slab, pass an overlap to gain a short corner. Climb this to a tricky exit left onto a short slab and a ledge.
6) 5c, 22m. A bold and scary pitch. Hand traverse the quartz rail rightwards above the void to the arete. A little further round the corner is a pocket for a cam placement that offers limited protection for the difficult step up from just right of the arete. Climb the groove above on rather poor gear, first on its left, then step right across it just below a roof. Turn the roof onto easier ground. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, Alex's Wales ticklist, The Road to Shibboleth, Ultimate E3 ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 17/Jun AltLd O/S
saintlade ??/2017 -

Hmm, kind of wished I'd known about the cam beta for p6. Iffy gear; I found a skinny sling on the jug before breaking right which was reasonable enough though. Awesome position.

eel 19/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Jon
jon22 19/Jul/16 AltLd

fell on the last pitch run out juice and time thank god!!!! great route, must go back to finish it.....

with Dave Almond
Dave Almond 17/Jul/16 AltLd dnf

Love the line, great climbing, late start and we both ran out of energy, motivation and daylight on last pitch after John had a small tumble. Back to car 11pm. One to go back for.

with John Seeley
PaulTanton 30/May/16 AltLd

Overall quite easy for the grade. Only worth two stars

The Grist 30/May/16 AltLd O/S
Ed Babs 18/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P1+2, 4 & 6. Especially enjoyed the last pitch.

Hidden ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
AdrianP 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

I led (guidebook) pitches 3,5 and 6. Maybe I was missing something, but though the 5b corner was the hardest! Pretty bold on all other pitches, particularly P3 with a hard, unprotected move above a leg-breaker chasm. Awesome mountain adventure, also cold!

with Pablo
Rich Kirby 24/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/14 AltLd
HAJ Francis ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

p1, 3 and 5

pablosordo ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

first trip to Wales with Nick, last pitch is out there

with nick
Jay.Carr 19/Apr/14 AltLd

So cold. sam ended up linking p3 with p3 or 4 of Long Kesh, brutal.

samwillo 19/Apr/14 AltLd

Awesome.

oliverpcain ??/2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Toby Dunn 28/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Dave Pickford
Tom Livingstone 26/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led top 'crux' pitch, amazing!

with Gwen Lancashire
Hidden 17/Jul/13 AltLd
khawk 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with DT
datoon 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with K
mike lawrence? 06/Jun/13 AltLd

Led the 5b and the top pitch, what a great day out.

with FatRob
frank ramsay 04/Jun/13 AltLd

Mentally taxing. Super route.

with Aaron
Aaron Lines 04/Jun/13 AltLd

led 5b pitch

tim newton 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
Misha 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

A great day out with Tim. Started from the hut at 8.30am and were back down mid-afternoon, had lunch and went on to do Ten Degrees North. I thought the crux was the first 5c pitch, which was hard and bold to start - a good lead by Tim. I did the 5b corner, which was tricky. Tim led the next 5c pitch, which was also tricky but also bold in places. I did the final pitch with the famous traverse, which was fine, as was the move to get stood up on the break - looked harder than it actually was. The same goes for the moves under the roof and onto the slab - kept thinking it would get hard but it just kept getting easier, the layback moves on the the slab are only 5a. There's adequate gear as well. A great route.

Hidden 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
crossleysm ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Tony Walker
Ewan Russell 29/May/12 AltLd

1,3;5 conor didnt fancy the top pitch after traversing out and watching on him didnt inspire me to have a go. We didnt know about crucial cam might have gone. Instead he finished up subsidary groove which gave a great pitch.

with Connor
Hidden 29/May/12 AltLd
Luke Brooks 26/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with John Orr
captain dringo ??/2012 -
alibrightman ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -

Did this after a squirrel ate through .. or at least weakened my gear loops dropped whole rack!!!!!!!! hallelujah ... got it back with bonus gear!

Hidden 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/11 2nd O/S
mikeyjbs 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with robert drynda
Hidden 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Jun/11 -
with Helena Robinson
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Marcus ??/2011 -
Dave Parton ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Ben1983 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
soph 01/Jan/10 -
Hidden 17/Oct/09 AltLd
Hidden 06/Oct/09 AltLd
Cassidy 05/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Not as classic as it is made out to be IMHO. Loose top out spoils it a bit.

with Robin, Jules, Graham, Will
Rob Pitt 04/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Nick Arding
billb ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Ed Booth 27/Jul/08 Lead

Snapped a hold off crux pitch and took a right whipper. Nailed myself on slab below. Slightly sore but pushed on and finished route before going down for tea and medals

Hidden 27/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Mark Stevenson 13/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Herrie Heckman
Marcus ??/2008 -
kingholmesy ??/2008 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1,3,5&6.

with Brian
jeffmcd56 ??/2007 AltLd O/S
with Rob
Brown 23/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Led practicaly entire route, soloed up main wall pitches, led 1st hard pitch, Henery next pitch then I led top two pitches.

with Henry
shoulders 27/Jul/06 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Chubbard 13/Jun/06 Lead dog
with C Godfrey
dan gibson 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with john nuttal
Hidden ??/2006 AltLd O/S
ukb & bmc shark 17/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
with John Codling
mikeski ??/2005 AltLd
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Adam Lincoln ??/2005 Lead
frost ?/Jul/03 -
with D Garry
Hidden 31/May/03 AltLd
Hidden 01/May/03 -
NeilGriffiths ?/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
with James Hubbard
Roget 22/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with jon
caveman_chris ?/May/99 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1998 AltLd
with Len Cray
mux ??/1998 AltLd
sadams 06/Jul/97 AltLd O/S
with John Boyle
Dave Musgrove 30/May/97 AltLd O/S

Great route. I led the scary top pitch.

with Nigel Baker
phardman ??/1997 -
Hidden 18/Aug/96 Lead O/S
Greg Cunningham ?/Apr/96 AltLd O/S

I lead scary top pitch

with andy mcarthy
Dave Musgrove Jnr 30/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
with Nick Ashton
D Tempest 09/Jul/95 AltLd
with Rick
duncan ?/Jun/95 AltLd O/S
keefe ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
Bruce Kerr 07/Jul/94 AltLd
with Robert Durran
Steve Crowe 11/Jun/94 AltLd O/S
whispering nic ?/Jul/93 Solo
with Ma
Hidden 28/Jun/92 Lead β
Andy Edgar ??/1992 AltLd

great final pitch even as the second

with Hugh Woodland
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd
Dave Rumney 14/Jul/90 Lead
Derek Ryden ?/Jun/90 AltLd O/S

Somehow climbed the direct finish by mistake.

with Tim Hakim
Hidden ?/Jul/89 AltLd O/S
phardman 17/Jun/89 AltLd O/S
Will Webb ?/May/89 AltLd
with Mark Cole
Eduardo Martinez 18/Jun/88 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/88 AltLd
sadams 11/Jun/88 AltLd
with Andy Mitchell
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 15/May/88 AltLd

I led the hand traverse with great trepadtion to a difficult move up and finished rapidly once the good holds were reached, really 'out there'

with John Mckeever, Luke Steer
wynaptomos ?/May/88 AltLd O/S
andy gittins ??/1988 -
Gezzer 09/May/87 AltLd

Superb Climb!

Hidden 09/May/87 AltLd
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??/1987 AltLd
keefe 01/Jun/85 -
with Johnny Adams
Bob 15/Aug/84 AltLd O/S

Our ascent was livened by an earthquake aftershock! You expect yourself to shake not the crag.

with R. Graham
Hidden 30/May/83 AltLd
Mark Kemball 17/Jul/82 AltLd
with Dave Abbey
charlesmfrench 11/Jul/82 AltLd O/S

L,L,2,L,2,L.

with Alan Bennett
redjerry ?/Jul/82 2nd O/S
with Bob Duncan
Mike Owen 01/Jun/82 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden ??/1982 AltLd
mitch1960 ??/1981 Lead
with Alan Dance
jon 24/Aug/80 AltLd
with tom L
uphillnow ?/Jun/80 AltLd
with john stanger
Hidden ??/1980 AltLd
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1973 -
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 22
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set