Rockfax Description
A fantastic bold and exposed route with some technical climbing and a grand finale.
1) and 2) As for Subsidiary Grooves.
3) 5c, 18m. Climb the technical groove above the stance which is best gained from the left. Belay in a large triangular bay.
4) 5b, 15m. Follow the corner behind the bay, exit right and go down to a spike belay.
5) 5c, 20m. Head up the slab, passing an overlap to gain a short corner. Climb this to a tricky exit left onto a slab and a ledge.
6) 5c, 22m. A bold and scary pitch. Hand traverse the quartz rail right above the void to the arete. A little further round the corner is a pocket for a cam placement that offers limited protection for the difficult step up from just right of the arete. Climb the groove above on rather poor gear, first on its left, then step right across it just below a roof. Turn the roof to easier ground. © Rockfax
Extreme Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales E3's , Alex's Wales ticklist , The Road to Shibboleth , James' 2015 Summer. , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , Bold Tradprenticeship , North Wales To Do List , Best Before 2025
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Drws y Gwynt)