Rockfax Description
A fantastic bold and exposed route with some technical climbing and a grand finale.
1) and 2) As for Subsidiary Grooves.
3) 5c, 18m. Climb the technical groove above the stance which is best gained from the left. Belay in a large triangular bay.
4) 5b, 15m. Follow the corner behind the bay, exit right and go down to a spike belay.
5) 5c, 20m. Go directly up the slab, pass an overlap to gain a short corner. Climb this to a tricky exit left onto a short slab and a ledge.
6) 5c, 22m. A bold and scary pitch. Hand traverse the quartz rail rightwards above the void to the arete. A little further round the corner is a pocket for a cam placement that offers limited protection for the difficult step up from just right of the arete. Climb the groove above on rather poor gear, first on its left, then step right across it just below a roof. Turn the roof onto easier ground. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, Alex's Wales ticklist, The Road to Shibboleth, Ultimate E3 ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
LucaC 25 Aug AltLd O/S P1+2,4,6
with Dan
P1+2,4,6
with Dan
Dave Almond 16 Jul AltLd Fun all the way. Solo on first two pitches, then led the pitches I hadn’t led on the previous DNF. Enjoyed the top pitch
with Liam Gaston
Fun all the way. Solo on first two pitches, then led the pitches I hadn’t led on the previous DNF. Enjoyed the top pitch
with Liam Gaston
peterbbrown 7 Jul AltLd p1,3,5
with Si Clark
p1,3,5
with Si Clark
Hidden 28 Jun Lead rpt
Mark Stevenson 26 Jun AltLd rpt
Hidden 14 May AltLd rpt
Alice Thompson ?May AltLd O/S
mrblack ?? -
Phil Davidson 26 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Vun
with Vun
WB 24 Jun, 2018 AltLd
markalmack 24 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S That last pitch was a bit frightening!
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
That last pitch was a bit frightening!
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
Flavio 9 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
JendeHoxar 9 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
MikePycroft 22 May, 2018 AltLd rpt Very good led p1, 2, 4 & 6
with geoff b
Very good led p1, 2, 4 & 6
with geoff b
geoff b 22 May, 2018 AltLd rpt What an excellent route; nowhere is it particularly hard but the parts all add up to a fine whole. I got P3 & P5, Mike led P1-2, P4 & P6. A lovely way to spend a summer afternoon-evening.
What an excellent route; nowhere is it particularly hard but the parts all add up to a fine whole. I got P3 & P5, Mike led P1-2, P4 & P6. A lovely way to spend a summer afternoon-evening.
CharlieMack 15 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Glad I swapped leads on the last pitch after not finding the cam. The last move was horrendous for my short arse!
with Jerome Cooper
Glad I swapped leads on the last pitch after not finding the cam. The last move was horrendous for my short arse!
with Jerome Cooper
Hidden 17 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
saintlade ??, 2017 - Hmm, kind of wished I'd known about the cam beta for p6. Iffy gear; I found a skinny sling on the jug before breaking right which was reasonable enough though. Awesome position.
Hmm, kind of wished I'd known about the cam beta for p6. Iffy gear; I found a skinny sling on the jug before breaking right which was reasonable enough though. Awesome position.
Frank the Husky ??, 2017 -
eel 19 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
John sealey 19 Jul, 2016 AltLd fell on the last pitch run out juice and time thank god!!!! great route, must go back to finish it.....
with Dave Almond
fell on the last pitch run out juice and time thank god!!!! great route, must go back to finish it.....
with Dave Almond
Dave Almond 17 Jul, 2016 AltLd dnf Love the line, great climbing, late start and we both ran out of energy, motivation and daylight on last pitch after John had a small tumble. Back to car 11pm. One to go back for.
with John Seeley
Love the line, great climbing, late start and we both ran out of energy, motivation and daylight on last pitch after John had a small tumble. Back to car 11pm. One to go back for.
with John Seeley
Hidden 30 May, 2016 AltLd
The Grist 30 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
Thomasstewart ??, 2016 AltLd
Ed Babs 18 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead P1+2, 4 & 6. Especially enjoyed the last pitch.
with IainAM
Lead P1+2, 4 & 6. Especially enjoyed the last pitch.
with IainAM
Hidden ??, 2015 -
phil64 ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Hidden 22 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
AdrianP 1 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 29 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S I led (guidebook) pitches 3,5 and 6. Maybe I was missing something, but though the 5b corner was the hardest! Pretty bold on all other pitches, particularly P3 with a hard, unprotected move above a leg-breaker chasm. Awesome mountain adventure, also cold!
with Pablo
I led (guidebook) pitches 3,5 and 6. Maybe I was missing something, but though the 5b corner was the hardest! Pretty bold on all other pitches, particularly P3 with a hard, unprotected move above a leg-breaker chasm. Awesome mountain adventure, also cold!
with Pablo
Hidden 24 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Jun, 2014 AltLd
HAJ Francis ?Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S p1, 3 and 5
p1, 3 and 5
pablosordo ?Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S first trip to Wales with Nick, last pitch is out there
with nick
first trip to Wales with Nick, last pitch is out there
with nick
Jay.Carr 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd So cold. sam ended up linking p3 with p3 or 4 of Long Kesh, brutal.
So cold. sam ended up linking p3 with p3 or 4 of Long Kesh, brutal.
samwillo 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd Awesome.
Awesome.
oliverpcain ??, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Toby Dunn 28 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Dave Pickford
with Dave Pickford
Tom Livingstone 26 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led top 'crux' pitch, amazing!
with Gwen Lancashire
Led top 'crux' pitch, amazing!
with Gwen Lancashire
Samuel Wainwright 17 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with Pat
with Pat
Sut 13 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
JulesV ?Jul, 2013 AltLd
with Will Boxen
with Will Boxen
khawk 8 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
with datoon
with datoon
datoon 8 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
with K
with K
mike lawrence? 6 Jun, 2013 AltLd Led the 5b and the top pitch, what a great day out.
Led the 5b and the top pitch, what a great day out.
frank ramsay 4 Jun, 2013 AltLd Mentally taxing. Super route.
with Aaron
Mentally taxing. Super route.
with Aaron
Aaron Lines 4 Jun, 2013 AltLd led 5b pitch
led 5b pitch
tim newton 26 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Misha
with Misha
Misha 26 May, 2013 AltLd O/S A great day out with Tim. Started from the hut at 8.30am and were back down mid-afternoon, had lunch and went on to do Ten Degrees North. I thought the crux was the first 5c pitch, which was hard and bold to start - a good lead by Tim. I did the 5b corner, which was tricky. Tim led the next 5c pitch, which was also tricky but also bold in places. I did the final pitch with the famous traverse, which was fine, as was the move to get stood up on the break - looked harder than it actually was. The same goes for the moves under the roof and onto the slab - kept thinking it would get hard but it just kept getting easier, the layback moves on the the slab are only 5a. There's adequate gear as well. A great route.
A great day out with Tim. Started from the hut at 8.30am and were back down mid-afternoon, had lunch and went on to do Ten Degrees North. I thought the crux was the first 5c pitch, which was hard and bold to start - a good lead by Tim. I did the 5b corner, which was tricky. Tim led the next 5c pitch, which was also tricky but also bold in places. I did the final pitch with the famous traverse, which was fine, as was the move to get stood up on the break - looked harder than it actually was. The same goes for the moves under the roof and onto the slab - kept thinking it would get hard but it just kept getting easier, the layback moves on the the slab are only 5a. There's adequate gear as well. A great route.
MikePycroft 8 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Very good day l p1 & 3.
with Elfyn
Very good day l p1 & 3.
with Elfyn
crossleysm ?Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Tony Walker
with Tony Walker
Ewan Russell 29 May, 2012 AltLd 1,3;5 conor didnt fancy the top pitch after traversing out and watching on him didnt inspire me to have a go. We didnt know about crucial cam might have gone. Instead he finished up subsidary groove which gave a great pitch.
1,3;5 conor didnt fancy the top pitch after traversing out and watching on him didnt inspire me to have a go. We didnt know about crucial cam might have gone. Instead he finished up subsidary groove which gave a great pitch.
Hidden 29 May, 2012 AltLd
Luke Brooks 26 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
with John Orr
with John Orr
captain dringo ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Stone Idle ??, 2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 - Did this after a squirrel ate through .. or at least weakened my gear loops dropped whole rack!!!!!!!! hallelujah ... got it back with bonus gear!
Did this after a squirrel ate through .. or at least weakened my gear loops dropped whole rack!!!!!!!! hallelujah ... got it back with bonus gear!
Hidden 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
mikeyjbs 2 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with robert drynda
with robert drynda
Hidden 2 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?Jun, 2011 -
with Helena Robinson
with Helena Robinson
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
GeoffG ??, 2011 -
Jack Geldard ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Marcus ??, 2011 -
Dave Parton ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
geoff b 21 Jun, 2010 AltLd Think we did this because P1 of Edge of Darkness was damp, filthy & unprotected. Can't remember which pitches I led, perhaps Pete can?!
Think we did this because P1 of Edge of Darkness was damp, filthy & unprotected. Can't remember which pitches I led, perhaps Pete can?!
pete johnson 21 Jun, 2010 -
with geoff b
with geoff b
Ben1983 24 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
soph 1 Jan, 2010 -
Hidden 17 Oct, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 6 Oct, 2009 AltLd
Cassidy 5 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S Not as classic as it is made out to be IMHO. Loose top out spoils it a bit.
with Robin, Jules, Graham, Will
Not as classic as it is made out to be IMHO. Loose top out spoils it a bit.
with Robin, Jules, Graham, Will
Rob Pitt 4 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Nick Arding
with Nick Arding
billb ?Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
with JulesV
with JulesV
Ed Booth 27 Jul, 2008 Lead Snapped a hold off crux pitch and took a right whipper. Nailed myself on slab below. Slightly sore but pushed on and finished route before going down for tea and medals
Snapped a hold off crux pitch and took a right whipper. Nailed myself on slab below. Slightly sore but pushed on and finished route before going down for tea and medals
Hidden 27 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
Mark Stevenson 13 May, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Herrie Heckman
with Herrie Heckman
Marcus ??, 2008 -
kingholmesy ??, 2008 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1,3,5&6.
with Brian
Led pitches 1,3,5&6.
with Brian
Hidden 21 Apr, 2007 Lead
jeffmcd56 ??, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Rob
with Rob
Brown 23 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S Led practicaly entire route, soloed up main wall pitches, led 1st hard pitch, Henery next pitch then I led top two pitches.
with Henry
Led practicaly entire route, soloed up main wall pitches, led 1st hard pitch, Henery next pitch then I led top two pitches.
with Henry
shoulders 27 Jul, 2006 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
Chubbard 13 Jun, 2006 Lead dog
with C Godfrey
with C Godfrey
dan gibson 11 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
with john nuttal
with john nuttal
Hidden ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
UKB Shark 17 Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S
with John Codling
with John Codling
mikeski ??, 2005 AltLd
Brian Rodgers ??, 2005 AltLd O/S Mike led the lower 6a pitch, i led the headwall pitch at the top.
with mikeski
Mike led the lower 6a pitch, i led the headwall pitch at the top.
with mikeski
Adam Lincoln ??, 2005 Lead
pete johnson 16 May, 2004 Lead O/S
with Lun
with Lun
frost ?Jul, 2003 -
with D Garry
with D Garry
steveb2006 31 May, 2003 AltLd Great route - second time on it for me - lead quartz band pitch
with Dave Taylor
Great route - second time on it for me - lead quartz band pitch
with Dave Taylor
Hidden 1 May, 2003 -
NeilGriffiths ?Jun, 2002 AltLd O/S
with James Hubbard
with James Hubbard
pauldrew ??, 2001 AltLd
with Julian Cox
with Julian Cox
Hidden 15 Sep, 2000 -
Roget 22 Jul, 2000 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
caveman_chris ?May, 1999 Lead
accynez ??, 1999 Lead
Hidden ??, 1998 AltLd
mux ??, 1998 AltLd
sadams 6 Jul, 1997 AltLd O/S
with John Boyle
with John Boyle
Dave Musgrove 30 May, 1997 AltLd O/S Great route. I led the scary top pitch.
with Nigel Baker
Great route. I led the scary top pitch.
with Nigel Baker
phardman ??, 1997 -
Hidden 18 Aug, 1996 Lead O/S
geoff b 25 Jul, 1996 AltLd A brilliant climb, tho' we didn't like the blood in the cracks! Think it was Dave Musgrove's from an unfortunate accident earlier in the week. I led P2, P4 & P6, which I remember finding scary.
with Nell
A brilliant climb, tho' we didn't like the blood in the cracks! Think it was Dave Musgrove's from an unfortunate accident earlier in the week. I led P2, P4 & P6, which I remember finding scary.
with Nell
Greg Cunningham ?Apr, 1996 AltLd O/S I lead scary top pitch
with andy mcarthy
I lead scary top pitch
with andy mcarthy
Dave Musgrove Jnr 30 Jul, 1995 AltLd O/S
with Nick Ashton
with Nick Ashton
D Tempest 9 Jul, 1995 AltLd
with Rick
with Rick
Neil McA 24 Jun, 1995 AltLd O/S Ace route. Led P4 and 6.
with Paul Pritchard
Ace route. Led P4 and 6.
with Paul Pritchard
duncan ?Jun, 1995 AltLd O/S
with AlisonC
with AlisonC
keefe ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 AltLd
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
Pete Wimbush ??, 1995 AltLd O/S Led pitches 3 and 5 I think (5c) . Dave led the top pitch
with Dave Langrish
Led pitches 3 and 5 I think (5c) . Dave led the top pitch
with Dave Langrish
Bruce Kerr 7 Jul, 1994 AltLd
with Robert Durran
with Robert Durran
Steve Crowe 11 Jun, 1994 AltLd O/S
whispering nic ?Jul, 1993 AltLd O/S
with slow hand nick
with slow hand nick
Billg ??, 1993 Lead
with Dave Gregory
with Dave Gregory
Hidden 28 Jun, 1992 Lead β
Andy Edgar ??, 1992 AltLd great final pitch even as the second
with Hugh Woodland
great final pitch even as the second
with Hugh Woodland
Hidden ??, 1991 AltLd
Dave Rumney 14 Jul, 1990 Lead
Derek Ryden ?Jun, 1990 AltLd O/S Somehow climbed the direct finish by mistake.
with Tim Hakim
Somehow climbed the direct finish by mistake.
with Tim Hakim
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Hidden 23 Jul, 1989 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 1989 AltLd O/S
phardman 17 Jun, 1989 AltLd O/S
with Simon Marsh
with Simon Marsh
Will Webb ?May, 1989 AltLd
with Mark Cole
with Mark Cole
Eduardo Martinez 18 Jun, 1988 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 1988 AltLd
sadams 11 Jun, 1988 AltLd
with Andy Mitchell
with Andy Mitchell
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 15 May, 1988 AltLd I led the hand traverse with great trepadtion to a difficult move up and finished rapidly once the good holds were reached, really 'out there'
with John Mckeever, Luke Steer
I led the hand traverse with great trepadtion to a difficult move up and finished rapidly once the good holds were reached, really 'out there'
with John Mckeever, Luke Steer
wynaptomos ?May, 1988 AltLd O/S
andy gittins ??, 1988 -
Hidden 4 Jul, 1987 AltLd O/S
Gezzer 9 May, 1987 AltLd Superb Climb!
Superb Climb!
steveb2006 9 May, 1987 AltLd Exciting - Gez leads the quartz band pitch
with Gez Morgan
Exciting - Gez leads the quartz band pitch
with Gez Morgan
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??, 1987 AltLd
HighChilternRidge ?Jun, 1986 -
keefe 1 Jun, 1985 -
with Johnny Adams
with Johnny Adams
Bob 15 Aug, 1984 AltLd O/S Our ascent was livened by an earthquake aftershock! You expect yourself to shake not the crag.
with R. Graham
Our ascent was livened by an earthquake aftershock! You expect yourself to shake not the crag.
with R. Graham
Dave Turnbull ?Jul, 1984 Lead
Hidden 30 May, 1983 AltLd
Mark Kemball 17 Jul, 1982 AltLd
with Dave Abbey
with Dave Abbey
charlesmfrench 11 Jul, 1982 AltLd O/S L,L,2,L,2,L.
with Alan Bennett
L,L,2,L,2,L.
with Alan Bennett
redjerry ?Jul, 1982 2nd O/S
with Bob Duncan
with Bob Duncan
Mike Owen 1 Jun, 1982 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Hidden ??, 1982 AltLd
mitch1960 ??, 1981 Lead
with Alan Dance
with Alan Dance
Hidden 24 Aug, 1980 AltLd
uphillnow ?Jun, 1980 AltLd
with john stanger
with john stanger
Hidden ??, 1980 AltLd
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Hidden ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Steve Clegg ?Aug, 1977 AltLd I led the top pitch
with Jeff L, Alec Sharp
I led the top pitch
with Jeff L, Alec Sharp
Hidden ??, 1973 -
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 25
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set