50m.
The impressive free falling waterfall to the right of the crag can occasionally freeze solid in the coldest of winters* providing a long steep full rope length pitch (three lines possible). It is also possible to break into two pitches belaying off to the right or left about half way up. approach is by abseiling off of a tree at the base of the dry tooling crag, or climbing directly up the stream bed (WI 2). descent is by abseil of off a bolted anchor on the right bank (climbers left).
*From Cascades de Glace, du mont Blanc au Leman, Vol 2, P41: "given the high flow-rate and low altitude, the risk of the routes collapsing is far from negligible"
*From Cascades de Glace, du mont Blanc au Leman, Vol 2, P41: "given the high flow-rate and low altitude, the risk of the routes collapsing is far from negligible"
F Damilano, J Annequin, S Camboulive, L Challeat & J-P Monnet Jan/2002.
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Route of Interest
Fer De Lance
Grade: WI-5 ***
(Les Bettières)