UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
Cleaned and bolted with a direct start and new finish. Make a hard start to gain undercuts. Climb the wall to a lower-off above the bulge. Some blind moves. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A modern re-imagining of the defunct and overgrown route Coot. Now cleared of ivy, brambles, dirt and other vegetation. The decades old threads have been removed, the line re-equipped and a direct start and an all new finish have been added.

Make hard moves to gain the undercuts and more easily the big jugs. Climb straight up to gain the blank looking wall and blind bulge above to a double bolt belay. Probably a hard onsight at the grade because of the blind nature of the climbing. Possibly harder for shorter climbers because of the start.

Steve Lewis 26/Oct/2020.

Ticklists

Peak Lime new and re-equipped routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Graeme Hammond 15 Jan Show βeta
βeta: why has this been upgraded to 7a lol
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: why has this been upgraded to 7a lol
OliverR17 29 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: First bolt of Coot Reboot & Cute removed by unknown person. Given the loose flake above, probably not the worst thing.
Show beta
βeta: First bolt of Coot Reboot & Cute removed by unknown person. Given the loose flake above, probably not the worst thing.
mark20 18 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Booming hollow flake wants a few tubes of glue behind it, or removing altogether.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Booming hollow flake wants a few tubes of glue behind it, or removing altogether.
Flyer from Fulham 5 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Very hard move near the ground protected by the first low bolt. Polished feet. Climbing after this is fantastic, flowy, and far easier.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very hard move near the ground protected by the first low bolt. Polished feet. Climbing after this is fantastic, flowy, and far easier.
JamieSparkes 7 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Really rather good. Certainly worth a couple of stars at least. Should prove popular, and certainly more enjoyable than rubicon!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really rather good. Certainly worth a couple of stars at least. Should prove popular, and certainly more enjoyable than rubicon!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Onsighted
Ground Up
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Handy Wallhole

Grade: 7a ***
(Dale Quarry (Wirksworth))

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