Known as the Central Spur Direct, it climbs the S side of the ridge instead of the N side as the parent route does. Peg protection and varied, excellent climbing.
Access: Start at the top of pitch 1 on the NE Ridge.
Description: (Treat with caution.)
1. V+. Climb the left arête of a fin or take the easier alternative of a chimney on the right at IV+. Stance at the top.
2. V. Go up a narrow and good slab, then a ramp to a stance at a ledge.
3. VI-. Go left along the ledge to a flake crack and up this. Make the final crux moves up overhanging rock to gain the crest of the NE Ridge and go along this to a stance. Continue up the NE Ridge climb to the summit.
Descent: As for NE Ridge.

Paul Nigg and L. Proyer 18/Sep/1967

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
JJWilliams 16 Jul 2nd dog Great route with amazing views and exposure. Shame that i took a pretty bad fall on a down climb part of the route in one of the middle sections. Bashed my finger pretty bad (sorry for the blood left behind) but managed to keep on climbing!
Great route with amazing views and exposure. Shame that i took a pretty bad fall on a down climb part of the route in one of the middle sections. Bashed my finger pretty bad (sorry for the blood left behind) but managed to keep on climbing!
Paul Sagar 16 Jul Lead O/S Quite a lot of drama, what with Jess fluffing the downclimb on the notch near the end of the first variation pitch and taking what was in effect a factor 2 leader fall past the belay, whipping me off the stance in the process. Luckily nothing worse occurred than a badly cut finger knuckle and the death of the big blue Nalgene bottle who exploded spectacularly on the rocks below. The young Swiss people being guided next to us on the Normal Route looked a little traumatised. Well done to Jess for soldiering on to the top, leaving a nice trail of blood for others to follow, because of course I had left all the tape and first aid kit in the bag at the bottom of the climb.
Quite a lot of drama, what with Jess fluffing the downclimb on the notch near the end of the first variation pitch and taking what was in effect a factor 2 leader fall past the belay, whipping me off the stance in the process. Luckily nothing worse occurred than a badly cut finger knuckle and the death of the big blue Nalgene bottle who exploded spectacularly on the rocks below. The young Swiss people being guided next to us on the Normal Route looked a little traumatised. Well done to Jess for soldiering on to the top, leaving a nice trail of blood for others to follow, because of course I had left all the tape and first aid kit in the bag at the bottom of the climb.
khalidq 8 Jul AltLd O/S I did the exciting move on the second / third pitch. Tom said"wow, you're a bouldererer".
I did the exciting move on the second / third pitch. Tom said"wow, you're a bouldererer".
Tom Blake 8 Jul AltLd
Hidden 18 Jul, 2018 -
Guy Arnold 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Dave Adler
with Dave Adler
Hidden 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd
andrzej kierzek 7 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Lead all pitches
Lead all pitches
abbeywall 25 Jul, 2017 AltLd Led 1, 3 to 5 and7
with K
Led 1, 3 to 5 and7
with K
Sir Pilade 24 Aug, 2014 AltLd
Big Lee 17 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P1 and 3 of the Nigg variant. Awesome exposed first pitch up the sharp arête. The overhang on the third pitch felt steady enough.
with Pero
Led P1 and 3 of the Nigg variant. Awesome exposed first pitch up the sharp arête. The overhang on the third pitch felt steady enough.
with Pero
Pero 16 Aug, 2013 AltLd
Ben1983 21 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 8 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S cool first route of the alps moved together for most of it... tried leni afterwards
with remus
cool first route of the alps moved together for most of it... tried leni afterwards
with remus
Hidden 1 Jul, 2012 AltLd
M_W_Court 3 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Kitty Court
with Kitty Court
thecurlyone 29 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Gary Wong
with Gary Wong
garywong 29 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 17 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
zach.stone 17 Aug, 2010 2nd
davepc ?Aug, 2009 Lead
with Mike
with Mike
Maarten2 25 Aug, 2008 AltLd As a continuation of Dente per Dente.
with Ineke D
As a continuation of Dente per Dente.
with Ineke D
tjekel ??, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2005 -
jcw ??, 1994 -
with Julian Cox
with Julian Cox
Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set