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Also known as the Central Spur and Voie Normal (F4+). A great classic and good introductory climb for the Spazzacaldeira with delightful climbing on generally excellent rock with some possibly flaky flakes. Several bolts and pegs. Don’t stray off route. The Nigg variant is a grade harder.
Access: From the dam go up the track to the scree cone between the Plattenturm and the NE Ridge base pillar. Follow a path up this cone go up across rock via a couloir/chimney (II+) to the start at the base of a nice arête right of a deep chimney/couloir (ring peg, 1/4 hr).
Description:
1. 4c 40m. Climb to and up the crest of the rib/arête right of the chimney/couloir to a terrace stance.
2. 3a 30m. Descend down to the blocks which cap the couloir/chimney. Pass behind the tower block on your right and the wall on the left. Do not go right. Emerge onto ledges above a small area of scree with a wall ahead of you on the left with a climbing set of individual edges going up right to a crack line.
3. 4c. 40m. Climb the ledges - go right across them - awkwardly to gain the steep crack line and go up it, well equipped with pegs, to overcome a short chimney and then continue more easily to a stance.
4.3a. c30m. Go up a dièdre to an obvious ledge and belay.
5. 4a. c50m. Gain the crest and enjoy fine exposed climbing along it to a stance in a notch. You can stay in the dièdre virtually to the top. This is easier and quicker but wrong.
6 and 7. 4a. c100m. Climb out of the notch and continue along the crest with more exposed and great climbing to the final stance above a drop at the junction with the N Ridge.
Descent: S Side. Down climb or abseil 6m from the final stance of the NE Ridge to an area of blocks. Go 80–100m south (II) to arrive below the Dente. Continue carefully over blocks and slabs going first down and then up to find the little gap at the top of S Side route.

A. Sommer 07/Sep/1928.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Simon Caldwell 10 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The normal route does not start at the foot of the arete, but about 30m up the couloir where there's an obvious ramp heading right to join the arete. There's a bolted variant that does start at the actual foot of the arete, graded 5a in the local guide but more like 5b. p4 description is confusing, best bet is to climb to the top of the offwidth then belay on ledges on the left (no bolted belay).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The normal route does not start at the foot of the arete, but about 30m up the couloir where there's an obvious ramp heading right to join the arete. There's a bolted variant that does start at the actual foot of the arete, graded 5a in the local guide but more like 5b. p4 description is confusing, best bet is to climb to the top of the offwidth then belay on ledges on the left (no bolted belay).

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