The protection is middling with some bolted stances. Take a set of nuts and Friends 2–3.
Access: About 20m right (north) of the start of Le Teori di Cele at the foot of a slab underneath a prominent overhang with a crack going up to its centre. As ever there is a red mark here.
Description:
1. V+ 30m. Climb the slab directly. Get up a small dièdre then continue for a few metres to a stance.
2. VII- 30m. Climb up the crack line on the slab to the overhang (VII-). Get over the overhang (VI+) using the crack and continue up it to its end. Go out rightwards on the compact slab as soon as you can to reach a ledge and stance.
3. VI- 45m. Climb a slab directly and then flakes up to a stance under a yellow overhanging ‘beak.’
4. VI+ 20m. Using good cracks on the left get over the ‘beak’ to reach a stance by a tree/shrub.
5. V+ 20m. Climb an arête with little difficulty, then traverse left to a slab and go up and into a steep dièdre. Climb the dièdre easily to a large spike and stance.
6. IV 30m. Continue up the dièdre which widens to a couloir and, when possible, go out left undern an overhang, hourglass thread, then climb direct to a stance.
7. IV 25. Climb in the direction of a dièdre/chimney towards blocks. Go up it to reach the N Ridge.
Descent: Descend the N Ridge (north) to the top of Via Da Capo and abseil down the route. Alternatively, at the top of the chimney on pitch 7 go left to find an abseil anchor point and abseil from there (twin 50m ropes).
Access: About 20m right (north) of the start of Le Teori di Cele at the foot of a slab underneath a prominent overhang with a crack going up to its centre. As ever there is a red mark here.
Description:
1. V+ 30m. Climb the slab directly. Get up a small dièdre then continue for a few metres to a stance.
2. VII- 30m. Climb up the crack line on the slab to the overhang (VII-). Get over the overhang (VI+) using the crack and continue up it to its end. Go out rightwards on the compact slab as soon as you can to reach a ledge and stance.
3. VI- 45m. Climb a slab directly and then flakes up to a stance under a yellow overhanging ‘beak.’
4. VI+ 20m. Using good cracks on the left get over the ‘beak’ to reach a stance by a tree/shrub.
5. V+ 20m. Climb an arête with little difficulty, then traverse left to a slab and go up and into a steep dièdre. Climb the dièdre easily to a large spike and stance.
6. IV 30m. Continue up the dièdre which widens to a couloir and, when possible, go out left undern an overhang, hourglass thread, then climb direct to a stance.
7. IV 25. Climb in the direction of a dièdre/chimney towards blocks. Go up it to reach the N Ridge.
Descent: Descend the N Ridge (north) to the top of Via Da Capo and abseil down the route. Alternatively, at the top of the chimney on pitch 7 go left to find an abseil anchor point and abseil from there (twin 50m ropes).
M. Marzorati, G. Camellini, D. Dell’Orto and L. Menegall 1989.
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Route of Interest
Kasper Pillar
Grade: 6b ***
(Piz Cacciabella)