Immaculate, beautiful and varied climbing on excellent steep granite. Protection is okay but there is not much in-situ gear and you need to take a set of nuts and some Friends. A Hex 11 is particularly recommended.
Access: As for Via Da Capo but continue for 15–20m up a dièdre to reach the foot of a pillar, with a tree on its top, cut by a deep dièdre/chimney (20 minutes). There is a red mark at the start.
Description: (Treat with caution.)
1. 5+ 25m. Climb up the dièdre/chimney some 20m (IV, V) to where it narrows and leans. Move out right, climb a slab and return to the edge of the dièdre and a stance (V+).
2. 5+ 25m. Re-enter the dièdre and ascend to its top. Go out left under an overhang and find a stance on a good terrace (the pillar head) with a tree (stump).
3. 6a 45m. Two ways here. For the original route go right and climb a pointed sharp crack/dièdre (6a) some 10m and then go right over a small roof (5+). The newer way has you move left and climb up a compact slab and join the original route. Continue up a grassy crack for some 30m (5+, interesting) and take a stance (pegs) on a ledge to the right.
4. 4+ 25m. Move left back to the crack and climb it enjoyably c15m to its end and then belay on a good ledge to the right with a Scots pine tree.
5. 6b 35m. Climb for about 10m up a slab to a bulge. Delicately climb leftwards to pass it (6a/b) and reach a small delicate flake. Climb direct (VII) for some metres. Then traverse right c6m (6a, peg or bolt) to/on a steep slab/wall (6b) and up to a bolted stance 10m up and right (5).
6. I4+ 30m. Continue up 10m to the arête (4+) and carry on broken ground (2-3) to the N Ridge.
Descent: Abseil back down the route. Alternatively, go up the N Ridge (south) to the top of Via Da Capo and abseil down that climb. Alternatively again, descend the N Ridge on its west side. This steep, featureless scree is well vegetated and takes 30 minutes to get back to the start.
Access: As for Via Da Capo but continue for 15–20m up a dièdre to reach the foot of a pillar, with a tree on its top, cut by a deep dièdre/chimney (20 minutes). There is a red mark at the start.
Description: (Treat with caution.)
1. 5+ 25m. Climb up the dièdre/chimney some 20m (IV, V) to where it narrows and leans. Move out right, climb a slab and return to the edge of the dièdre and a stance (V+).
2. 5+ 25m. Re-enter the dièdre and ascend to its top. Go out left under an overhang and find a stance on a good terrace (the pillar head) with a tree (stump).
3. 6a 45m. Two ways here. For the original route go right and climb a pointed sharp crack/dièdre (6a) some 10m and then go right over a small roof (5+). The newer way has you move left and climb up a compact slab and join the original route. Continue up a grassy crack for some 30m (5+, interesting) and take a stance (pegs) on a ledge to the right.
4. 4+ 25m. Move left back to the crack and climb it enjoyably c15m to its end and then belay on a good ledge to the right with a Scots pine tree.
5. 6b 35m. Climb for about 10m up a slab to a bulge. Delicately climb leftwards to pass it (6a/b) and reach a small delicate flake. Climb direct (VII) for some metres. Then traverse right c6m (6a, peg or bolt) to/on a steep slab/wall (6b) and up to a bolted stance 10m up and right (5).
6. I4+ 30m. Continue up 10m to the arête (4+) and carry on broken ground (2-3) to the N Ridge.
Descent: Abseil back down the route. Alternatively, go up the N Ridge (south) to the top of Via Da Capo and abseil down that climb. Alternatively again, descend the N Ridge on its west side. This steep, featureless scree is well vegetated and takes 30 minutes to get back to the start.
Thomas Muller and Martin Scheel 09/Aug/1978.
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Route of Interest
Il Dente
Grade: 6b ***
(Spazzacaldera)