Immaculate, beautiful and varied climbing on excellent steep granite. Protection is okay but there is not much in-situ gear and you need to take a set of nuts and some Friends. A Hex 11 is particularly recommended.
Access: As for Via Da Capo but continue for 15–20m up a dièdre to reach the foot of a pillar, with a tree on its top, cut by a deep dièdre/chimney (20 minutes). There is a red mark at the start.
Description: (Treat with caution.)
1. 5+ 25m. Climb up the dièdre/chimney some 20m (IV, V) to where it narrows and leans. Move out right, climb a slab and return to the edge of the dièdre and a stance (V+).
2. 5+ 25m. Re-enter the dièdre and ascend to its top. Go out left under an overhang and find a stance on a good terrace (the pillar head) with a tree (stump).
3. 6a 45m. Two ways here. For the original route go right and climb a pointed sharp crack/dièdre (6a) some 10m and then go right over a small roof (5+). The newer way has you move left and climb up a compact slab and join the original route. Continue up a grassy crack for some 30m (5+, interesting) and take a stance (pegs) on a ledge to the right.
4. 4+ 25m. Move left back to the crack and climb it enjoyably c15m to its end and then belay on a good ledge to the right with a Scots pine tree.
5. 6b 35m. Climb for about 10m up a slab to a bulge. Delicately climb leftwards to pass it (6a/b) and reach a small delicate flake. Climb direct (VII) for some metres. Then traverse right c6m (6a, peg or bolt) to/on a steep slab/wall (6b) and up to a bolted stance 10m up and right (5).
6. I4+ 30m. Continue up 10m to the arête (4+) and carry on broken ground (2-3) to the N Ridge.
Descent: Abseil back down the route. Alternatively, go up the N Ridge (south) to the top of Via Da Capo and abseil down that climb. Alternatively again, descend the N Ridge on its west side. This steep, featureless scree is well vegetated and takes 30 minutes to get back to the start.

Thomas Muller and Martin Scheel 09/Aug/1978

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Thunderthighsontheloose 25 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes 25 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
al99 2 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S This is 6a+ and has a lot of bolts protecting it. Maybe 2 or 3 cam placements required for the route.
with Luke Thomas
This is 6a+ and has a lot of bolts protecting it. Maybe 2 or 3 cam placements required for the route.
with Luke Thomas
Hidden 2 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Lawrie Brand 7 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Given as F6a+ in Plasair Sud. Or E2 5b in real money. Amazing quality granite, and immaculate climbing on flakes, chimneys and slabs.
with Terry Walker
Given as F6a+ in Plasair Sud. Or E2 5b in real money. Amazing quality granite, and immaculate climbing on flakes, chimneys and slabs.
with Terry Walker
Hidden ??, 2006 AltLd
uphillnow 11 Jul, 2002 AltLd
with Mark Gray
with Mark Gray
Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Onsighted
Not Set