High-grade hard slab padding. Medium protection. Take some nuts and Friends 3 1/2–4.
Access: As for Steinfresser but continue further along the base of the cliff and get to a grassy area (meadow) at the foot of an obvious crack where there is a red mark and arrow.
Description: (Be cautious with this description.)
1. VII 30m. Climb the crack which first goes slightly rightwards and then directly up at the same time as it widens. After a while move right to climb a short crack and pull up grassy ground to a stance.
2. VI+ 30m. Climb a thin flake (VI+) making for a flake/dièdre which you climb, move to the right (bolt) and then go back left to the flake and climb a little further to the stance.
3. VIII 30m. Climb directly up the dièdre to a flake that brings you up to an overhang (VI+). Cross over to the right using the upside-down flake of the overhang (VIII or VII+/A0) and then keep right avoiding a leaning block. Climb a small dièdre, overcoming its overhang, and take a stance on the left.
4. VI 40m. Climb some metres up a slab heading rightwards then go obliquely left to climb a small wall (VI). Climb a slab more easily to a tree/shrub and stance.
5. V 50m. Climb leftwards to a grassy ledge and avoid an arête to head directly for rock with many holds (V). Go left to a sapling and up easier rock to the top.
Descent: Go up the N Ridge to Via Da Capo and abseil down that climb.
Access: As for Steinfresser but continue further along the base of the cliff and get to a grassy area (meadow) at the foot of an obvious crack where there is a red mark and arrow.
Description: (Be cautious with this description.)
1. VII 30m. Climb the crack which first goes slightly rightwards and then directly up at the same time as it widens. After a while move right to climb a short crack and pull up grassy ground to a stance.
2. VI+ 30m. Climb a thin flake (VI+) making for a flake/dièdre which you climb, move to the right (bolt) and then go back left to the flake and climb a little further to the stance.
3. VIII 30m. Climb directly up the dièdre to a flake that brings you up to an overhang (VI+). Cross over to the right using the upside-down flake of the overhang (VIII or VII+/A0) and then keep right avoiding a leaning block. Climb a small dièdre, overcoming its overhang, and take a stance on the left.
4. VI 40m. Climb some metres up a slab heading rightwards then go obliquely left to climb a small wall (VI). Climb a slab more easily to a tree/shrub and stance.
5. V 50m. Climb leftwards to a grassy ledge and avoid an arête to head directly for rock with many holds (V). Go left to a sapling and up easier rock to the top.
Descent: Go up the N Ridge to Via Da Capo and abseil down that climb.
D. Formenti and D. Chindamo 1989.
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