Beautiful climbing up a crack/dièdre. Medium protection. Take a set of nuts and Friends up to size 4.
Access: The start is 50m right of Steinfresser at the base of a thin crack below the right-hand side of a band of angular overhangs some 50–60m up (25 mins).
Description:
1. VI 40m. Climb the excellent jamming crack to a bolted stance.
2. VI- 40m. Get over a block and then traverse almost horizontally left along a slab under the angular overhangs until near the right-hand side of the lowest point of the prominent leftmost V-shaped overhang. Bolted stance.
3. VI 20m. Climb up rightwards along the side of the V-shaped overhang in a dièdre which it forms. When you join the other part of the angular overhangs climb over it and take a (bolted) stance
4. III 20m. Climb rightwards via an easy crack and take a stance on a vegetated ledge.
5. V 45m. Climb slightly rightwards then go direct up slabs.
6. III 10m. Continue up the slabs more easily to the N Ridge.
Descent: Go up the ridge (south) to Via Da Capo and abseil down that route.
Access: The start is 50m right of Steinfresser at the base of a thin crack below the right-hand side of a band of angular overhangs some 50–60m up (25 mins).
Description:
1. VI 40m. Climb the excellent jamming crack to a bolted stance.
2. VI- 40m. Get over a block and then traverse almost horizontally left along a slab under the angular overhangs until near the right-hand side of the lowest point of the prominent leftmost V-shaped overhang. Bolted stance.
3. VI 20m. Climb up rightwards along the side of the V-shaped overhang in a dièdre which it forms. When you join the other part of the angular overhangs climb over it and take a (bolted) stance
4. III 20m. Climb rightwards via an easy crack and take a stance on a vegetated ledge.
5. V 45m. Climb slightly rightwards then go direct up slabs.
6. III 10m. Continue up the slabs more easily to the N Ridge.
Descent: Go up the ridge (south) to Via Da Capo and abseil down that route.
M. Moosberger and C. Clavuot 1984.
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Route of Interest
Nasi Goreng
Grade: 6a ***
(Spazzacaldera)