UKC

Rockfax Description
Intense, thin moves up the centre of the slabby wall. Protection is good on the really thin bits. Start 4m right of the big tree at the base of the crag.
Move up past an easily-missed nut placement with increasing difficulty to a thin crack at 16m, good small wires. A very thin sequence up and then left gains a good peg in a diagonal crack. Move up the crack for 2m and then break rightwards across the wall, on tricky ground, to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).


ClimberDateStyle
Flavio 05/Nov/17 Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 05/Nov/17 2nd O/S
with Flavio
Lumbering Oaf 14/Sep/17 TR dog

Made it over the bulge in the wall but the thin moves above the bulge were a bit too thin and I had to rest for a bit to figure them out. Made it to the jugs above the crux srction which then leads to the final crack area.

kennythescot 04/May/17 Lead dog

Think I started too far left, clipped the peg then had to climb quite far right to get some other gear in. All in all a very good route, a bit thin, gear is good tho

with Rich Mackie
Andrew Sandercock 13/Apr/17 2nd dog

Absolutely amazing. Fell off on the crux, awkward. Amazing quality.

Hidden 13/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/16 2nd
Hidden 15/Nov/16 Lead
Davros the Psyched 15/May/16 Lead O/S

Not the purest of leads...

Jackislav 21/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Clipped the first peg of Bird Scarer with a big stretch on rubbish holds, so assuming I was slightly left of the line (but still felt of the grade). Continued from my position on the right hand side of the peg climbing the crux sequence to the peg of BF and the rest of the route as normal, still claimable or is this entirely wrong?

Hidden 06/Sep/15 TR
Andy Moles 25/Jul/15 Lead dnf

An impeccably stylish ascent. Spent a long time getting sore feet, then went off route onto Flashdance, which I rushed and fell off. Then resumed Blinding Flash from where I'd deviated, but after a few metres decided I couldn't face the foot pain and finished leftwards instead of right.

with Ferdia
ferdia 25/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden 19/May/15 TR dog
Russell Blackaller 21/Mar/15 Lead G/U

Very good route. Wimped off mid crux 1st try. Then lead after Johnny boy.

John Mcshea 21/Mar/15 Lead β
with Russ
Macca_7 02/Nov/14 2nd O/S

Didn't feel as sustained or goey as Flashdance but I guess thats the difference between leading and seconding!

with Stu Bradbury
R0BJ0N 14/Aug/14 TR O/S
with Dan Hancock
Hidden 19/Jul/14 2nd dog
Hidden 19/Jul/14 Lead dog
Luxulyan 25/Jan/14 Lead dog

Fell off crux after hanging around for 40 minutes trying to figure sequence out - tough to read! Hard to commit as slightly dubious gear though one good nut placement. Very thin through crux and top part is no pushover. Beautiful climbing.

with Tom Murrell
Sean Kelly 19/Aug/13 TR

Repeat ascent. Climbed direct!

with Harry Pearce
Sean Kelly 02/May/13 TR

Climbed very direct. No harder than Flashdance, but so much more of it. Very taxing on the feet!!

with Harry Pearce
Dale Turrell 25/Apr/13 2nd dog

One silly preventable fall early on, the rest clean.

with Dave R
Bristoldave 25/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Dale
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Kevster 14/Oct/12 Lead dog

One rest, when it rained. Otherwise clean, gear is there but some might not be bomb proof.

Hidden 20/Sep/12 TR O/S
Hidden 13/May/12 TR
Ed morris 02/May/12 Lead RP

Felt smooth on lead once gear was trusted. Much much harder to onsight i reckon. every move is amazing.

with Jack
Jack J Keogan 02/May/12 TR dog

Took Some serious assistance from Ed, but a great climb. Need to have another crack with some broken in shoes!

burto 31/Mar/12 Lead β
with jerome, hertha
JeromeT ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Ed morris 27/Nov/11 TR β

One to lead next time.

with ewan
feilx 22/Jan/11 TR O/S

probably should've gone for the lead, but was already a bit jittery after flash dance - lamo

with Matt Perks
Toby Dunn 15/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Alex Hughes
Hidden ??/2008 Lead RP
Dave Searle 22/Jul/07 2nd
climber sim ??/2007 -
hayleylouise 13/May/01 TR
FATBOYFAT ??/1994 Lead O/S
clark alston ?/Jan/89 Lead O/S
with Nick White
Hidden 14/Feb/87 Lead rpt
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Voting
High E5
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 11
High 6b
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Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Repeated
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set