48m.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic hidden gem. Start near the base of a rounded rib, below a peg. Move up to the peg and make a hard pull up and right past this to a jug. The route now turns more balancy and slate-esque. Move up and left on pocketed rock to a thread, before heading more directly up to easier ground and a crack on the right. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Top Five Pass E4's, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Definitive *** Llanberis

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Andy Moles 8 Aug 2nd rpt
with ferdia
with ferdia
ferdia 8 Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Jul 2nd O/S
rachelpearce01 7 Jul Lead O/S A little bold for my liking, couldn’t commit to a move for ages after the thread. But managed to carry on. The crux is cool low down on some monos and after that the climbing is technical and delicate. Maybe more like 2* for me.
A little bold for my liking, couldn’t commit to a move for ages after the thread. But managed to carry on. The crux is cool low down on some monos and after that the climbing is technical and delicate. Maybe more like 2* for me.
BC 7 Jul Lead O/S Bold feeling but safe. Super cool moves over polished pockets. Wasn't really feeling Rimsky on hidden wall. So will be back for that again.
Bold feeling but safe. Super cool moves over polished pockets. Wasn't really feeling Rimsky on hidden wall. So will be back for that again.
George_Surf 7 Jul Lead O/S Safe crux (mono?!) tied peg off, it’s solid. Good sideways rock 4 and better gold alien before the thread. Then it’s a big 5m runout to the crack, balancy and then safer/easiest to the top. Good in the lower half, not very physical
Safe crux (mono?!) tied peg off, it’s solid. Good sideways rock 4 and better gold alien before the thread. Then it’s a big 5m runout to the crack, balancy and then safer/easiest to the top. Good in the lower half, not very physical
Lewis Perrin Williams 5 Jul Lead O/S Magnificent line!
with Dan Hale
Magnificent line!
with Dan Hale
Andy Moles 27 Jun Lead Good for my confidence in finger injury recovery to be able to lead this.
with Misha
Good for my confidence in finger injury recovery to be able to lead this.
with Misha
Misha 27 Jun 2nd rpt Nice to second it this time. Reachy move to the mega jug (went for a cross through with RH), balancy slab climbing above that. Did it fairly quickly but was still almost chased by a lad leading it after us. Andy got a skyhook and a BD red microcam above the jug, then a 0.4 cam. Collectively ok I think. E3 if you trust the gear!
Nice to second it this time. Reachy move to the mega jug (went for a cross through with RH), balancy slab climbing above that. Did it fairly quickly but was still almost chased by a lad leading it after us. Andy got a skyhook and a BD red microcam above the jug, then a 0.4 cam. Collectively ok I think. E3 if you trust the gear!
Hidden 27 Jun 2nd O/S
Archie ball 27 Jun Lead O/S Beautiful climbing on amazing rock. No real 6a moves in my opinion and gear is good enough to make run out feel ok. Awesome.
Beautiful climbing on amazing rock. No real 6a moves in my opinion and gear is good enough to make run out feel ok. Awesome.
Hidden 27 Jun Lead O/S
Gabe Oliver 22 Jun Lead dnf Jumped on it despite not feeling very optimistic. Got through the bottom section to the good hold but wasn't really mentally prepared. I'll come back for another go when i'm feeling more confident
Jumped on it despite not feeling very optimistic. Got through the bottom section to the good hold but wasn't really mentally prepared. I'll come back for another go when i'm feeling more confident
Hidden 19 Jun Lead O/S
reubenhf 19 Jun 2nd β
with Dronz
with Dronz
Butel 3 Jun Lead β Absurdly wet at the top.
Absurdly wet at the top.
DeaNomNom 13 May Lead O/S Thought the crux was gaining the corner.
Thought the crux was gaining the corner.
Hidden 13 May Lead β
Owen Davies 21 Apr Lead O/S tricky starting moves, and amazing moves above the gear on beautiful holds! very happy to have done this! very in flow above the thread! epic!
with Mum
tricky starting moves, and amazing moves above the gear on beautiful holds! very happy to have done this! very in flow above the thread! epic!
with Mum
JackM92 6 Jul, 2018 Lead β Sweltering heat and first difficult lead since dislocating my shoulder 5 weeks ago. Had good beta on the gear and it was well chalked. The initial move to the jug is fine, the runout above the thread definitely the psychological crux, pretty safe though.
Sweltering heat and first difficult lead since dislocating my shoulder 5 weeks ago. Had good beta on the gear and it was well chalked. The initial move to the jug is fine, the runout above the thread definitely the psychological crux, pretty safe though.
Dan Hale 27 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Woooo runouts
with Dronz
Woooo runouts
with Dronz
bencole 13 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Brilliant route, right up my street this one. Hard move at the bottom although not hard for 6a. Then good gear if you’ve got narrow cams for the pockets. Then a big run out above the thread which was just easy enough to stave off the fear.
Brilliant route, right up my street this one. Hard move at the bottom although not hard for 6a. Then good gear if you’ve got narrow cams for the pockets. Then a big run out above the thread which was just easy enough to stave off the fear.
milena 10 Jun, 2018 2nd Gorgeous climbing, felt reachy.
Gorgeous climbing, felt reachy.
harry_lewis 10 Jun, 2018 Lead β Abbed to replace the tat. Crux peg is bomber in current state.
with milena
Abbed to replace the tat. Crux peg is bomber in current state.
with milena
benw681 4 Jun, 2018 Lead dnf FFS
with Yuki
FFS
with Yuki
Phil Davidson 25 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Erm......wondering about this routes grade.....peg at start yeah....one thread halfway up the wall and commiting....it's decking it territory....
with Mick Lovatt
Erm......wondering about this routes grade.....peg at start yeah....one thread halfway up the wall and commiting....it's decking it territory....
with Mick Lovatt
Hidden 13 Jul, 2017 2nd
deacondeacon 9 Apr, 2017 Lead G/U
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 9 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Really cool route. Did a Dawes-esque dynamic thumb sprag on the crux but deacon trumped that with his massive dyno. Gets bolder but easier as you go, really enjoyable.
Really cool route. Did a Dawes-esque dynamic thumb sprag on the crux but deacon trumped that with his massive dyno. Gets bolder but easier as you go, really enjoyable.
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Misha 23 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Good route reminiscent of a grit slab. Balancey crux well protected by a peg (OK, wouldn't get that on the grit!) to a rest and questionable gear (Eve got a small totem in the slot, I had a flimsy sideways offset), then easier but still tricky moves past an OK cam to the thread (OK but could do with replacing, backed up by a micro wire), followed by a good sized runout where the moves get easier just as it gets a bit exciting. Also an unexpected tricky section to get into the easy finishing groove, proved to be easier than it looked but still 5c. Can't really see this being E4 as the crux is short and well protected, more like E3 6a with a well protected crux and a fair bit of bold E3 5c ground. Stripped on ab so Eve could lead as well. No chalk on it made it a bit more exciting to lead.
with eel
Good route reminiscent of a grit slab. Balancey crux well protected by a peg (OK, wouldn't get that on the grit!) to a rest and questionable gear (Eve got a small totem in the slot, I had a flimsy sideways offset), then easier but still tricky moves past an OK cam to the thread (OK but could do with replacing, backed up by a micro wire), followed by a good sized runout where the moves get easier just as it gets a bit exciting. Also an unexpected tricky section to get into the easy finishing groove, proved to be easier than it looked but still 5c. Can't really see this being E4 as the crux is short and well protected, more like E3 6a with a well protected crux and a fair bit of bold E3 5c ground. Stripped on ab so Eve could lead as well. No chalk on it made it a bit more exciting to lead.
with eel
eel 23 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with Misha
with Misha
papashango 30 May, 2016 Lead O/S no chalk on it which added to the quality of the route a lot. lovely rock.
with Glynn, Katie, Derek Ryden
no chalk on it which added to the quality of the route a lot. lovely rock.
with Glynn, Katie, Derek Ryden
theotherpetehill 30 May, 2016 Lead O/S First E4 lead! The thread is a bit old and I could have done with my good shoes. But excellent climbing.
First E4 lead! The thread is a bit old and I could have done with my good shoes. But excellent climbing.
Derek Ryden 30 May, 2016 2nd O/S
with Peter Hill
with Peter Hill
Hidden ??, 2016 -
wi11 9 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with Derw
with Derw
Gus 6 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with Duncan Campbell, michaela tracey
with Duncan Campbell, michaela tracey
Hidden 18 Apr, 2015 Lead β
Hidden 18 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Ed morris 9 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Since the peg snapped. Crucial size 1 3CU cam needed before the thread. Still E4.
Since the peg snapped. Crucial size 1 3CU cam needed before the thread. Still E4.
Russell Blackaller 24 Jul, 2014 Lead dnf Fell off doing the 6a move then lost interest.
Fell off doing the 6a move then lost interest.
Hidden 22 Jul, 2014 Lead
Dan Vaj 12 Jul, 2014 2nd β
with khalidq, James McHaffie
with khalidq, James McHaffie
khalidq 12 Jul, 2014 2nd β
with James Mchaffie, Dan Vaj
with James Mchaffie, Dan Vaj
wolf.leeb 2 Jul, 2014 2nd rpt
mynyddresident 2 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S lovely technical climbing up the pocketed wall.
with wolf
lovely technical climbing up the pocketed wall.
with wolf
nathanlee 30 Jun, 2014 2nd
with Will Sim, Jack Lawledge
with Will Sim, Jack Lawledge
Ed Babs 29 Jun, 2014 Lead RP Had to work out the moves to the second peg.
with AlexD
Had to work out the moves to the second peg.
with AlexD
AlexD 29 Jun, 2014 2nd Did the 5c start, direct felt desperate!
with Ed Babs
Did the 5c start, direct felt desperate!
with Ed Babs
Rachel Slater 23 Jun, 2014 Lead β Felt pretty easy after watching Anna on it first.
with Anna Gilyeat
Felt pretty easy after watching Anna on it first.
with Anna Gilyeat
Hidden 23 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 21 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
nathanlee 20 Jun, 2014 Lead β bloody good
with goli
bloody good
with goli
Martin Haworth 20 Jun, 2014 2nd
with Pete Harrison
with Pete Harrison
Hidden 14 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 17 May, 2014 Lead O/S
with Nick B
with Nick B
AndrewJamesCherry ??, 2014 Lead dnf I'm afraid I have snapped the second peg in a fall! I haven't been back up to check out the situation but it looks like a clean snap. A replacement or other gear may be possible. This might make that upper section particularly runout, putting you well into the deck out zone. Sorry guys! :(
I'm afraid I have snapped the second peg in a fall! I haven't been back up to check out the situation but it looks like a clean snap. A replacement or other gear may be possible. This might make that upper section particularly runout, putting you well into the deck out zone. Sorry guys! :(
tim newton 3 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
with gwen lancashire
with gwen lancashire
Owain Llewelyn 26 Aug, 2013 2nd
with Gareth E
with Gareth E
Duncan Campbell 26 Jul, 2013 Lead β Despite feeling very unconfident after the morning's spanking I decided to lead this after James. slight worrying section below the thread where James had placed a cam where a good hold was, but as I hadn't placed the cam I wasn't sure how good it actually was. The run-out is great, all there but you still have to climb. Soft E4
Despite feeling very unconfident after the morning's spanking I decided to lead this after James. slight worrying section below the thread where James had placed a cam where a good hold was, but as I hadn't placed the cam I wasn't sure how good it actually was. The run-out is great, all there but you still have to climb. Soft E4
The old James turnbull 25 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 21 Jul, 2013 2nd
Justin T 20 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Don't look down folks... and don't believe the comments below saying this isn't runout!
Don't look down folks... and don't believe the comments below saying this isn't runout!
dan gibson 17 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with sam read
with sam read
dswansonlow 15 Jul, 2013 2nd rpt
shed_hed 15 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Went straight for this, should have warmed up first. Took a while to actually get into climbing and make the first move but once I did I was away. Nice little route.
Went straight for this, should have warmed up first. Took a while to actually get into climbing and make the first move but once I did I was away. Nice little route.
Hidden 14 Jul, 2013 Lead β
mark20 14 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
redjerry 13 Jul, 2013 TR O/S
dswansonlow 12 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Oli
with Oli
Hidden 12 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet 12 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S Took E3 start to save the E4 for another day. Still hard for E3 I reckon.
with AJM
Took E3 start to save the E4 for another day. Still hard for E3 I reckon.
with AJM
AJM 12 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Savage crux! Route was chalked which was useful on the midsection. Chuffed with this!
Savage crux! Route was chalked which was useful on the midsection. Chuffed with this!
Hidden 11 Jul, 2013 2nd dog
atapper21 11 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with AJCW
with AJCW
Tom Livingstone 10 Jun, 2013 Lead β
with ojgrant
with ojgrant
wolf.leeb 5 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Really enjoyable climbing and a pretty steady E4..
with jo
Really enjoyable climbing and a pretty steady E4..
with jo
LRob ??, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 May, 2012 2nd O/S
willoates 24 May, 2012 Lead O/S Brilliant route, perfectly runout. looks even more inspiring from the high ground to the right.
with Dave Evans
Brilliant route, perfectly runout. looks even more inspiring from the high ground to the right.
with Dave Evans
soph 24 May, 2012 2nd
with Dave Evans
with Dave Evans
sam820 28 Sep, 2011 2nd
with Callum
with Callum
Ewan Russell 30 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
with Ralph
with Ralph
richardr 2 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Hard reachy crux for me, the rest was wonderful and not really that bold.
Hard reachy crux for me, the rest was wonderful and not really that bold.
ksjs 14 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S Direct start. One of the best trad pitches I've been on this year. E4 for me, whatever way you start (not aware of any other E3s about with a similar run out). Perfect climbing above the thread, lures you on and would be tough to reverse, plus there really is no gear. Small cams worthwhile on this, also superlight rocks might give 1 or 2 really good placements. Soaking at the top, interesting!
with rob
Direct start. One of the best trad pitches I've been on this year. E4 for me, whatever way you start (not aware of any other E3s about with a similar run out). Perfect climbing above the thread, lures you on and would be tough to reverse, plus there really is no gear. Small cams worthwhile on this, also superlight rocks might give 1 or 2 really good placements. Soaking at the top, interesting!
with rob
Hidden 2 May, 2011 2nd dog
al99 30 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
with Ben Jones
with Ben Jones
lukehodson 30 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S Brilliant climbing
with Ben Jones
Brilliant climbing
with Ben Jones
frost 30 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with D Almond
with D Almond
Dave Almond 30 Apr, 2011 2nd
with frost
with frost
Hidden 21 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 19 Apr, 2011 Lead
with Gareth E
with Gareth E
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
HIGHTOWER 4 Sep, 2010 2nd
with centurion05, Dave Gleave
with centurion05, Dave Gleave
centurion05 4 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S Good route. Climbing is straight forward enough, not too run out either! Would be a nicer route without thread!
Good route. Climbing is straight forward enough, not too run out either! Would be a nicer route without thread!
Hidden 27 Jun, 2010 2nd rpt
ewen 24 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with neil stabbs
with neil stabbs
Mike Goldthorp 23 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Mad for it! Started rainin as i was startin but was too keen to stop so just cracked on, felt confident on trad again for the first in ages!
Mad for it! Started rainin as i was startin but was too keen to stop so just cracked on, felt confident on trad again for the first in ages!
catblack 21 Jun, 2010 2nd
Andrew Barker 21 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S A one-star line with three-start moves. A bit contrived at the start if you avoid the crack but the central pocketed section is fantastic.
A one-star line with three-start moves. A bit contrived at the start if you avoid the crack but the central pocketed section is fantastic.
Hidden 20 Jun, 2010 2nd rpt
nige 20 Jun, 2010 Lead
with ash
with ash
farmus21 2 Jun, 2010 Lead Great climbing. Wet at the top.
with Sam Radcliffe
Great climbing. Wet at the top.
with Sam Radcliffe
samrad 2 Jun, 2010 Lead β good climb. really wet at the top! led on james's gear.
with james G
good climb. really wet at the top! led on james's gear.
with james G
Hidden 28 May, 2010 Lead O/S
farmus21 28 May, 2010 2nd
with Ben Allsford
with Ben Allsford
owain86 26 May, 2010 Lead RP
with harvie
with harvie
hamer89 25 May, 2010 Lead O/S
farmus21 24 May, 2010 2nd Aweome, can't wait to lead.
with hamer89
Aweome, can't wait to lead.
with hamer89
JulesV 23 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 23 May, 2010 Lead dnf
harvie 19 May, 2010 Lead O/S
owain86 19 May, 2010 2nd O/S
with harvie
with harvie
Alex Mason 15 May, 2010 Lead O/S Trickier than expected! And quite runout. but really good.
with George Ullrich, Ed Booth
Trickier than expected! And quite runout. but really good.
with George Ullrich, Ed Booth
Ed Booth 15 May, 2010 Lead O/S We led it on AL's gear! Quite intense runnout from the thread.
with Al Mason, George Ulrich
We led it on AL's gear! Quite intense runnout from the thread.
with Al Mason, George Ulrich
Luke Brooks 11 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
barni 25 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Liam FLeming 25 Sep, 2009 2nd O/S
with barni
with barni
Toby Dunn 23 Jun, 2009 Lead
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
geoff b 2 Jun, 2009 2nd Consider my finger tips ripped.
Consider my finger tips ripped.
MikePycroft 2 Jun, 2009 Lead dog rest on thread after down climbing, used sky hock on pocket above thread
with geoff b
rest on thread after down climbing, used sky hock on pocket above thread
with geoff b
Hidden 31 May, 2009 Lead O/S
miastacey 31 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with Bob Smith
with Bob Smith
Boy ?Apr, 2009 -
with Nige Kershaw
with Nige Kershaw
Pete Graham ?Apr, 2009 Lead
Adam Lincoln ??, 2009 Lead O/S
ksjs 27 Jul, 2008 Lead dnf clean, good climbing up to threads but decided they need replacing so lowered off
with mark
clean, good climbing up to threads but decided they need replacing so lowered off
with mark
Hidden ?Jun, 2008 2nd
Mark Stevenson 13 May, 2008 2nd O/S
with Herrie Heckman
with Herrie Heckman
Ram MkiV 10 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
with reeve
with reeve
IOAN D 17 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S undergraded in the new book, no way E35c . as in the old book E46a
with Mills
undergraded in the new book, no way E35c . as in the old book E46a
with Mills
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
Rachael Barlow ??, 2006 2nd
with Pete Robins
with Pete Robins
pete johnson 10 Jun, 2005 Lead O/S
with Lun
with Lun
Rachael Barlow ?Jun, 2005 2nd
with Pete Robins
with Pete Robins
Sut 1 Sep, 2004 Lead O/S
spidey 1 Sep, 2003 Lead
Hidden 29 Jun, 2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Jun, 2003 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 17 Apr, 2003 Lead O/S
with karin
with karin
ellis ?Jul, 2000 Lead O/S
with Duncan Bull, Tom Bridgeland
with Duncan Bull, Tom Bridgeland
Hidden ?Apr, 2000 Lead O/S
Jon Read ?Jun, 1999 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 May, 1999 Lead O/S
caveman_chris ?May, 1999 Lead
duncan 9 Aug, 1997 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Jul, 1997 2nd
Hidden 20 Jul, 1997 2nd
jfletcher 20 Jun, 1997 Lead O/S
with David Lyons
with David Lyons
Ched ??, 1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
goi.ashmore 5 Aug, 1996 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
with Roy Thomas
WB ?Aug, 1996 Lead O/S
with GuyM
with GuyM
TCP ?Jul, 1996 Lead O/S Easy E4
with Ben Humphreys
Easy E4
with Ben Humphreys
Dave Musgrove Jnr 28 Apr, 1996 2nd horribly hungover from EUMC dinner at the heights the night before.
with Nick Ashton
horribly hungover from EUMC dinner at the heights the night before.
with Nick Ashton
whispering nic ?Apr, 1996 Lead O/S
with April
with April
Si Witcher ??, 1996 Lead O/S Seemed straightforward at the time, with 2 pegs in place. Had another look Jul 18. no.6 super rock went in pocket ok, and Metolius no.1 tcu for 3-finger pocket above apparently.
Seemed straightforward at the time, with 2 pegs in place. Had another look Jul 18. no.6 super rock went in pocket ok, and Metolius no.1 tcu for 3-finger pocket above apparently.
wynaptomos ?Aug, 1995 Lead O/S
Nick Biven ??, 1995 Lead O/S Superb climb
Superb climb
Seymore Butt ??, 1995 Lead
with Spuz
with Spuz
ianabbot ??, 1995 Lead G/U
Neil McA 2 Jul, 1994 Lead O/S
with Beak 2
with Beak 2
onefootholdinthegrave ?May, 1992 Lead
with Justin
with Justin
Hidden 19 May, 1988 Lead
Hidden ??, 1986 Lead O/S
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 40
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set