Rockfax Description
A fantastic hidden gem. Start near the base of a rounded rib, below a peg. Move up to the peg and make a hard pull up and right past this to a jug. The route now turns more balancy and slate-esque. Move up and left on pocketed rock to a thread, before heading more directly up to easier ground and a crack on the right. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Top Five Pass E4's, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Phil Davidson 25/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Erm......wondering about this routes grade.....peg at start thread halfway up the wall and's decking it territory....

with Mick Lovatt
Hidden 13/Jul/17 2nd
deacondeacon 09/Apr/17 Lead G/U
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Really cool route. Did a Dawes-esque dynamic thumb sprag on the crux but deacon trumped that with his massive dyno. Gets bolder but easier as you go, really enjoyable.

with Deacon
Hidden ??/2017 -
Misha 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Good route reminiscent of a grit slab. Balancey crux well protected by a peg (OK, wouldn't get that on the grit!) to a rest and questionable gear (Eve got a small totem in the slot, I had a flimsy sideways offset), then easier but still tricky moves past an OK cam to the thread (OK but could do with replacing, backed up by a micro wire), followed by a good sized runout where the moves get easier just as it gets a bit exciting. Also an unexpected tricky section to get into the easy finishing groove, proved to be easier than it looked but still 5c. Can't really see this being E4 as the crux is short and well protected, more like E3 6a with a well protected crux and a fair bit of bold E3 5c ground. Stripped on an so Eve could lead as well. No chalk on it made it a bit more exciting to lead.

with Eve
eel 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Misha
Hidden 30/May/16 Lead O/S
theotherpetehill 30/May/16 Lead O/S

First E4 lead! The thread is a bit old and I could have done with my good shoes. But excellent climbing.

Derek Ryden 30/May/16 2nd O/S
with Peter Hill
Hidden ??/2016 -
wi11 09/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Derw
Gus 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Duncan Campbell, michaela tracey
Wood for Trees 18/Apr/15 Lead β

after Alex, gear in. Feels bold heading up to thread, small cam seemed reasonable we thought. Thread in good nick. Felt crux was gaining first jug at the start. Immaculate rock and setting.

with barrows
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Ed morris 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Since the peg snapped. Crucial size 1 3CU cam needed before the thread. Still E4.

Russell Blackaller 24/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Fell off doing the 6a move then lost interest.

with Justin
Hidden 22/Jul/14 Lead
Dan Vaj 12/Jul/14 2nd β
with Khalid, James McHaffie
khalidq 12/Jul/14 2nd β
with James Mchaffie, Dan Vajzovic
wolf.leeb 02/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with nic
mynyddresident 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S

lovely technical climbing up the pocketed wall.

with wolf
nathanlee 30/Jun/14 2nd
with Will Sim, Jack Lawledge
Ed Babs 29/Jun/14 Lead RP

Had to work out the moves to the second peg.

with AlexD
AlexD 29/Jun/14 2nd

Did the 5c start, direct felt desperate!

with Ed
Rachel Slater 23/Jun/14 Lead β

Felt pretty easy after watching Anna on it first.

with Anna Gilyeat
Hidden 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
nathanlee 20/Jun/14 Lead β

bloody good

Martin Haworth 20/Jun/14 2nd
with Pete Harrison
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with Nick B
AndrewJamesCherry ??/2014 Lead dnf

I'm afraid I have snapped the second peg in a fall! I haven't been back up to check out the situation but it looks like a clean snap. A replacement or other gear may be possible. This might make that upper section particularly runout, putting you well into the deck out zone. Sorry guys! :(

tim newton 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with gwen lancashire
Owain Llewelyn 26/Aug/13 2nd
with Gareth E
Duncan Campbell 26/Jul/13 Lead β

Despite feeling very unconfident after the morning's spanking I decided to lead this after James. slight worrying section below the thread where James had placed a cam where a good hold was, but as I hadn't placed the cam I wasn't sure how good it actually was. The run-out is great, all there but you still have to climb. Soft E4

The old James turnbull 25/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with duncan
Hidden 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 21/Jul/13 2nd
Justin T 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Don't look down folks... and don't believe the comments below saying this isn't runout!

dan gibson 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with sam read
dswansonlow 15/Jul/13 2nd rpt
shed_hed 15/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Went straight for this, should have warmed up first. Took a while to actually get into climbing and make the first move but once I did I was away. Nice little route.

Hidden 14/Jul/13 Lead β
mark20 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
redjerry 13/Jul/13 TR O/S
dswansonlow 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Oli
Hidden 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet 12/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Took E3 start to save the E4 for another day. Still hard for E3 I reckon.

with am
AJM 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Savage crux! Route was chalked which was useful on the midsection. Chuffed with this!

Hidden 11/Jul/13 2nd dog
Tom Livingstone 10/Jun/13 Lead β
wolf.leeb 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Really enjoyable climbing and a pretty steady E4..

with jo
LRob ??/2013 Lead O/S
atapper21 ??/2013 -

definitely run out, don't think you would hit the deck but it is exciting

Hidden 26/May/12 2nd O/S
willoates 24/May/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, perfectly runout. looks even more inspiring from the high ground to the right.

with Dave Evans
soph 24/May/12 2nd
with Dave Evans
sam820 28/Sep/11 2nd
with Callum
Ewan Russell 30/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Ralph
richardr 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Hard reachy crux for me, the rest was wonderful and not really that bold.

ksjs 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Direct start. One of the best trad pitches I've been on this year. E4 for me, whatever way you start (not aware of any other E3s about with a similar run out). Perfect climbing above the thread, lures you on and would be tough to reverse, plus there really is no gear. Small cams worthwhile on this, also superlight rocks might give 1 or 2 really good placements. Soaking at the top, interesting!

with rob
Hidden 02/May/11 2nd dog
al99 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Ben Jones
lukehodson 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Brilliant climbing

with Ben Jones
frost 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with D Almond
Dave Almond 30/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 19/Apr/11 Lead
with Gareth E
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
HIGHTOWER 04/Sep/10 2nd
with Andy Woolston, Dave Gleave
centurion05 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Good route. Climbing is straight forward enough, not too run out either! Would be a nicer route without thread!

Rich Kirby 27/Jun/10 2nd rpt
with Kev
ewen 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with neil stabbs
Mike Goldthorp 23/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Mad for it! Started rainin as i was startin but was too keen to stop so just cracked on, felt confident on trad again for the first in ages!

catblack 21/Jun/10 2nd
Andrew Barker 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S

A one-star line with three-start moves. A bit contrived at the start if you avoid the crack but the central pocketed section is fantastic.

Hidden 20/Jun/10 2nd rpt
nige 20/Jun/10 Lead
with ash
farmus21 02/Jun/10 Lead

Great climbing. Wet at the top.

with Sam Radcliffe
samrad 02/Jun/10 Lead β

good climb. really wet at the top! led on james's gear.

with james G
Hidden 28/May/10 Lead O/S
farmus21 28/May/10 2nd
with Ben Allsford
owain86 26/May/10 Lead RP
with Sam
farmus21 24/May/10 2nd

Aweome, can't wait to lead.

JulesV 23/May/10 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 23/May/10 Lead dnf
harvie 19/May/10 Lead O/S
owain86 19/May/10 2nd O/S
with Sam
Alex Mason 15/May/10 Lead O/S

Trickier than expected! And quite runout. but really good.

with George Ullrich, Ed Booth
Ed Booth 15/May/10 Lead O/S

We led it on AL's gear! Quite intense runnout from the thread.

with Al Mason, George Ulrich
Luke Brooks 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jan/10 -
barni 25/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Liam FLeming 25/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with barni
Toby Dunn 23/Jun/09 Lead
with Andy Reeve
geoff b 02/Jun/09 2nd

Consider my finger tips ripped.

Hidden 02/Jun/09 Lead dog
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead O/S
miastacey 31/May/09 Lead O/S
with Bob Smith
Boy ?/Apr/09 -
with Nige Kershaw
Pete Graham ?/Apr/09 Lead
Adam Lincoln ??/2009 Lead O/S
ksjs 27/Jul/08 Lead dnf

clean, good climbing up to threads but decided they need replacing so lowered off

with mark
Hidden ?/Jun/08 2nd
Mark Stevenson 13/May/08 2nd O/S
with Herrie Heckman
Ram MkiV 10/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with reeve
IOAN D 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S

undergraded in the new book, no way E35c . as in the old book E46a

with Mills
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Rachael Barlow ??/2006 2nd
with Pete Robins
pete johnson 10/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Lun
Rachael Barlow ?/Jun/05 2nd
with Pete Robins
spidey 01/Sep/03 Lead
Hidden 29/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 17/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with KM
ellis ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Duncan Bull, Tom Bridgeland
Hidden ?/Apr/00 Lead O/S
Jon Read ?/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 03/May/99 Lead O/S
with Hugh
caveman_chris ?/May/99 Lead
duncan 09/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Hugo Glover
Hidden 23/Jul/97 2nd
Hidden 20/Jul/97 2nd
jfletcher 20/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with David Lyons
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
goi.ashmore 05/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
WB ?/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with Guy
Graeme Smithy ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S

Easy E4

with Ben Humphreys
Dave Musgrove Jnr 28/Apr/96 2nd

horribly hungover from EUMC dinner at the heights the night before.

with Nick Ashton
whispering nic ?/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with April
wynaptomos ?/Aug/95 Lead O/S
Nick Biven ??/1995 Lead O/S

Superb climb

Seymore Butt ??/1995 Lead
with Spuz
Hidden 19/May/88 Lead
Hidden ??/1986 Lead O/S
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 33
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set