Rockfax Description
A stunning and alarming route, making up the trilogy of hard aretes on this crag. Start by the ladder to the right of the groove of Barbarian.
1) 6a, 28m. From the top of the ladder, move onto the top of a pinnacle. Head left up the slab and move up again to a small ledge. Shuffle right to a groove and climb this. Move left at its top before heading straight up to belay below the corner of P2 of Scratch.
2) 6a, 30m. Move left round the pinnacle and into the base of a groove just left of the arete. Gain the slab above and climb up to the roof via the arete. Move to the right of the arete and make a tricky move left onto the slab above the roof which leads to more thin climbing. You are eventually forced back onto the steeper right wall, possible blind cam placement down and right. Head straight up, don't slap for the ledge; it slopes alarmingly. Easy climbing leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Ultimate E4 ticklist.

kez1 19/Sep/16 2nd O/S

First pitch only

with dino, tom McCluskey
tommccluskey 19/Sep/16 Lead O/S

p1 only - probably worth e3

dinodinosaur 19/Sep/16 2nd dnf

Tom lead and I seconded first pitch only

Luke Brooks 15/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Kate
Hidden 15/Jun/16 2nd
deacondeacon 15/May/16 Lead O/S

1st pitch only. Dunno if I went the right way. Felt like the right grade but didn't see any peg.

breed 19/Mar/16 Lead
Hidden ??/2016 -
wi11 22/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Led P1 maybeish? Who knows. Good lead by Henry on P2

with Henry F
Ed morris 16/May/15 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. Fantastic top pitch, first pitch ambiguous and stressful, had to dyno the move across the slab?

with Henry
BenRyle 01/Sep/14 AltLd dog

Didn't do last pitch, another day. Dan on finest form though well done old boy!

with Dan
Dan724 01/Sep/14 Lead O/S

What a route! First E4 onsight off the slate. Found the second pitch to be a pretty intense experience. Had to really switch my brain off. The moves through the overlap were committing, hard to read, spontaneous. 'Woke up' whilst placing the RP below my feet and fighting a nasty onset of disco leg. Realised where I was and topped out with the sun illuminating clouds of chalk against the rock.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 31/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Cracking route, both pitches of high quality

shed_hed 05/Jul/14 AltLd RP

Quality route. Led P1 ground up and seconded P2 clean. P1 felt nails and very strenuous. Took a few attempts climbing up and down to figure out the beta for going through the first overlap, but in the end I didn't want to commit. Got tired hanging around not moving anywhere so downclimbed to rest on the peg. Lowered back to the start and had another go getting through this (just), managed to hang around and shove some gear in (just) and pull onto the slab with relief. Glad I managed to fight through and keep hanging on for this one. P2 was awesome and looks so improbable looking up at it from the belay. Technically felt much easier than P1, with only one tricky move, but bolder.

with Gwen Lancashire
Hidden 07/Apr/13 2nd O/S
markalmack 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches. Was a bit unsure where to go on p1. P2 was fucking amazing. Glad I didn't fall off up there.

Alex Mason 06/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Awesome route. Led both pitches. Ignore guidebook description on P1 where it says to traverse right after the pinnacle, Straight up all the way (maybe a reach rightwards at most). Top pitch is sublime and unlikely!

with Gwen Lancashire
willoates 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S

tim 1st pitch, me second pitch. airy climbing, gear where you need it. awesome.

with Tim Neil
JulesV 30/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Graham Atkins 30/Jun/12 AltLd
barni 18/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Top pitch led. first pitch look a bit poo. top pitch amazing

with luke
switch ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Leanne
Paul Clarke ??/1990 AltLd
with FMC
Bob ??/1990 -
Hidden 26/Aug/89 AltLd O/S
Melok ??/1985 Lead

2 leads,***, bold,

Mike Owen 02/Dec/84 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 23/May/81 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/81 Lead
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High E5
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High 6b
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