Rockfax Description
Excellent climbing that features a hard and technical lower wall and an airy finish above the upper bulge to a lower-off. The extension is no harder. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The Orme 7a+'s, North Wales Rock Graded List, Monopoly, North Wales Sport Climbing, Rock cats getting strong.

max_dickens 12/Oct Lead G/U

Great to do this classic, fell close to the chains on the onsight after thinking I'd bagged it! Managed it with mucho shaking 2nd go with the extension finish.

with Bennett, James Williams, Misha bach, XimO_putO_AmO, Bow
katy_abra 27/Sep Lead RP
Jake Young 14/Sep Lead dog

A quick play before going to the arcade.

anguskille 25/Jul Lead O/S
with Neil Dickson, Dan Mcmanus
Lenny 12/Jul Lead RP
with Gayle
Lenny 08/Jul TR RP
with Pete
chris_woodsy 05/Jul Lead O/S
with Widdaz
Lenny 01/Jul TR dog
with Hidden
Stroppy 24/Jun Lead

1st RP, enjoyed the moves going right after the 2nd crux

with Cathy
Jack Delaney 18/Jun Lead β
with Binigo
slowmotion 17/Jun Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jun Lead rpt
Sophie Nunn 11/Jun Lead RP
with Emma Rooney
Adam Booth 24/May Lead dog

Too crimpy for bad finger. Top roped it after with a tight rope on the crimpy section. Nice route.

Ed Booth 24/May Lead rpt
spalice 03/May Lead RP

Putting clips in... Surprised! Must be because it's May :)

with Andy Nicholson
Rach_D ?/May 2nd RP

2nd attempt to original chains 7a

Jdoc ??/2017 Lead G/U
Billg 10/Dec/16 Lead RP

2 tough sections interspersed by easier climbing

with Will Calvert
Butel 25/Sep/16 Lead dog

Quick slip on crux then rain kicked in on upper crux making slippy.

with Harriet Ridley
Misha 18/Sep/16 Lead RP

Hard! Top of the grade and a lot harder than Axle Attack, which I onsighted earlier this year. First redpoint but worked both cruxes on the first go. Had quite a few goes on the bottom crux until I figured it out, still hard though as the feet are rubbish for a few moves. Used a small semi pancake hold rather than the mono. Redpoint went ok except had a wobble on literally the last couple of moves on the extension finish but pulled through fine. Cool heel/toe rest (handsfree possible but painful) just before the top crux. Quality!

with Eszter
Hidden 07/Sep/16 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Sep/16 -
JendeHoxar 10/Jul/16 Lead dog
with Ed
Hidden 10/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Mark Warnett ?/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Binigo ?/May/16 Lead dog
with Sam2257
ferdia 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Tony Stone
JamesWilliams 13/Mar/16 Lead RP

climbed with the extension. clipsticked up to get the draws in and try some of the moves. first go got through the first crux but froze and took a big one! then 3 attempts coming off going into the crux crimp because my feet were wrong. 5th go sailed through the lower crux and fell of the second crux , changed beta to the big undercut rather than crimpy pocket and 6th go it was in the baag! remember looking at the criminal mono after lowering of julio juvento a while ago and thinking it looked impossible! its looking like a good start to the year

with Qureshi
FreddieSmith 16/Feb/16 Lead β
Hidden ??/2016 -
MJclimb ??/2016 -
Hidden 02/Nov/15 Lead RP
phil64 04/Oct/15 2nd

Hard sharp crimpfest, extension good but bolts for lower off placed very close together?

with Andy Bowman
JCAshman ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Dan77 23/Jun/15 TR dog
Mat Welsh ?/Jun/15 Lead RP

Second go - Superb route. Lower crux and finishing moves are sweet! Climbed it twice same day it was so good!

with Warren
marky 24/May/15 Lead O/S

Great route with the extension.

with Sharon
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead
Adam Lincoln 10/May/15 Lead β
with Pete Chadwick
jonleighton 10/May/15 Lead O/S
Ed morris 05/May/15 Lead RP
with Hadyn
Haydn Jones 05/May/15 Lead β
Hidden ?/May/15 -
wolf.leeb 24/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with nic
nickmoulden 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with zoe bidula
Hidden ??/2015 TR
Hidden 02/Oct/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Oct/14 Lead dog
Javis 21/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Patricia Murrieta
Hidden 20/Sep/14 Lead β
mynyddresident 06/Sep/14 Lead RP

Really cool moves.After putting the clips in.

eugeneth 06/Sep/14 Lead RP

Amazing sequency climbing :) Tres bien!!

dswansonlow 24/Jul/14 Lead rpt

With the contusion extension. I love long routes!

shed_hed 24/Jul/14 Lead RP

With the contusion extension to finish. First go sweaty fingers slipped off the jugs after the first crux (wasn't pumped, just careless!). Lowered down, pulled ropes and did it fine next go. Nice route, should have got the onsight though.

Luke Dawson 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead RP
SMc 21/Jun/14 Lead RP
with Mark, Anne
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead RP
Hidden 05/Jun/14 Lead RP
Rachel Slater 14/May/14 Lead RP

Sequence error, should have OS'd.

Hidden 11/May/14 Lead RP
Rosea Day 17/Apr/14 Lead β

too much info in guide for onsight!

Glyn 12/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Dan Mcmanus
Jacob Bloodworth ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Ally Smith 30/Mar/14 Lead rpt

Always find this a bit of a bugger

Ewan Russell 22/Mar/14 Lead RP
with Henry, gwen, Anna
Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead RP
cjd91 08/Mar/14 Lead RP

Fantastic climb. Went second go after falling off the onsight

HAJ Francis ?/Mar/14 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2014 Lead
oliverpcain ??/2014 Lead rpt
Ally Smith 28/Sep/13 Lead dog

end of the day faff whilst missing a foothold

Brown 13/Jul/13 Lead

A retro flash having failed to climb this some years previously.

with Lilifa
dswansonlow 29/Jun/13 Lead RP

2nd go. Really nice route

with Yada
Ssebo Banange 26/Jun/13 Lead RP
Nifec14 17/Jun/13 2nd
with Elf yn jones
Hidden ??/2013 -
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
alek 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
davidliu 08/Sep/12 Lead β
jfreeman 14/Jul/12 Lead β
with Pete Chadwick, Steve Dunning
Lloyders 08/Jul/12 Lead RP
with Matt Keyse
Hidden 26/Jun/12 Lead dog
Hidden 26/Jun/12 Lead
Dan724 24/Jun/12 Lead RP

Hardest route to date and favourite on the Orme so far. Resting for ages in the cave paid off.

KittySupreme 20/Jun/12 Lead RP
fennerz 27/May/12 Lead RP

Footslip, 2nd go, good route.

with Abi and Louise
Hidden 19/May/12 Lead RP
ksjs 19/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with jo
Hidden 13/Apr/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 31/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead dog
Chi Cheng 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Petri Kemppainen, Phil Cartwright, Liam Brown
The Grist 30/Mar/12 Lead rpt

Fell twice the first attempt then got it clean. Put clips in as I went.

owain86 24/Mar/12 Lead RP
Luke Brooks 21/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with John Orr
andyob 16/Mar/12 Lead dog

Very pleased to have got over the bulge, easier climbing up to there,

with jonny
innes ??/2012 Lead O/S
with Ruth
kingholmesy ??/2012 Lead RP

2nd go.

with Joe Torr
Hidden ??/2012 -
LRob ??/2012 Lead
owain86 03/Dec/11 Lead dog
with Chris
JRae 03/Dec/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 09/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Liam FLeming 30/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/11 Lead RP
dannyboy83 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
La Mont 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Felix
feilx 10/Jul/11 Lead dog
Ally Smith 07/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Pete H
Hidden 05/Jul/11 Lead β
Wendy 05/Jul/11 Lead β
colesy 05/Jul/11 Lead O/S

With Wendy and Tom

Hidden 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 08/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Sophie, Glyn Hudson
Glyn 08/Jun/11 Lead β
with Sophie, Luke
Liam FLeming 06/Jun/11 Lead
with stuart lade
willoates 31/May/11 Lead RP

didn't feel too bad on the lead a couple of wraps of tape around the middle finger made the sharp mono a LOT nicer to hold.

schof 31/May/11 Lead RP

dirty mono. hard top just quite blind. first redpoint

with will
Liam FLeming 18/May/11 Lead dog
with luke brooks
Luke Brooks 18/May/11 Lead rpt
with Liam
Hidden 17/May/11 TR dog
Jack00 15/May/11 Lead RP


with Anna
Martin Cleaver 12/May/11 Lead RP

Fell at last clip on the onsight, guess i should look where the route goes first! Punter!

with Dan Gibson
phil64 12/May/11 Lead RP

always a testing little number!!

dan gibson 12/May/11 Lead β
with martin cleaver
Ed Booth 05/May/11 Lead β

clips in courtesy of rope gun rob, ace route

Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead
samrad 02/Mar/11 Lead RP

felt i had to get back on this after my fail last time. happy when i got to the top :)

with crad
barni 24/Feb/11 Lead RP
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
samrad 19/Nov/10 Lead dog

riches mono beta didn't work for me.

smallerrich 23/May/10 Lead rpt


with Ollie Wragg
ksjs 19/May/10 Lead RP

almost greased off the crux crimps. classic and a pleasure

with tommy
Luke Brooks 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt ??/2010 -
smallerrich 03/Dec/09 Lead RP

Got shoddy beta on the flash, nailed it first redpoint.

with Balsford
datoon 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with K
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead RP
hervenuttall ?/Sep/09 Lead RP
with Drew
Dave Searle ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with tommy
mr mills 12/Jul/09 Lead rpt
with Elfyn (chang)
mattyork2 06/Jun/09 Lead dog
with Adam Hodgson and Emma Twyford
ksjs 14/May/09 Lead dog

3 falls on crux - RH coming off the wet hold youre throwing for. would hope to have done it clean if dry, pleased to do upper section clean with the rain coming down

with jo
ksjs 20/Aug/08 Lead dog

annoyed not to do this as it really is pretty simple; the crux can though feel a bit blind but is fine when you know what to do

with jo
switch 22/Jul/08 Lead β
Hidden 18/May/08 Lead O/S
Mark Riley 09/Feb/08 Lead dog
with Tim
ksjs 05/Feb/08 Lead dog

great stuff all the way. fell at crux - a bit blind and then went wrong way at second bulge. very worthwhile!

with mark
zero six ??/2008 Lead RP
Hidden 07/Aug/07 Lead O/S
IOAN D 03/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Mills
jeffmcd56 ??/2007 Lead RP
with Rob
Hidden 02/Jul/06 Lead dnf
Rob Grant 09/Jun/06 Lead
Boy ??/2006 -
spidey 07/Jul/04 Lead RP
Gus 27/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead RP
Dave Lyon ??/2000 -
Paul Clarke ??/1999 Lead
with Paul Greenland
sadams 20/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with Andy Bowie
Hidden 16/Jun/98 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/97 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 15/Jun/97 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 08/Jun/97 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
nokishatov 01/Jun/97 Lead O/S
nige ?/Mar/97 Lead RP
with dave kells
ste_d 21/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with mik
nokishatov 21/Jul/96 2nd
goi.ashmore 20/Jun/96 Lead RP
with Dee Herbert
whispering nic ?/Jun/96 Lead O/S
Shaved Atom ??/1996 Lead O/S
keefe ??/1996 -
kristian ??/1996 TR O/S
wynaptomos ?/Jul/95 Lead rpt
andy gittins ??/1995 -
Roget 02/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with jon
Mike Owen 27/Apr/94 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Rich Kirby 07/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with Hugh/Phil/Innes
Eduardo Martinez 03/Jun/93 Lead O/S
crossleysm ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 15/May/93 Lead O/S
with KM
ukb & bmc shark 24/Apr/93 Lead
wynaptomos ?/Jul/92 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 27/Jun/92 Lead O/S
with Gareth Parry
Hidden 27/Jun/92 Lead
Hidden 13/Jun/92 Lead
Stoney Boy 20/Sep/91 Lead RP
with Jim Kelly, Bob Marks
Mike Owen 16/Jul/91 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 08/Jul/90 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Jul/90 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1987 -
mark mcgowan01 ??/1987 -
Steve Lewis 19/May/84 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
Mark Kemball 23/May/83 2nd
with Willie Todd
Mike Owen 03/Sep/82 2nd β
with Phil Davidson
robyn1 ??/1980 -
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High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set