Rockfax Description
One of the great challenges of the crag. Most climbers do the route in one pitch, by climbing the first pitch, clipping in, pulling the rope through to reduce rope drag, and then continuing. Start below a large flake corner.
1) 6a. Climb up to a bolt and make a hard move to good holds directly above. Move up and slightly left to clip bolts on Harry the Clamp. Step right, crossing the corner on huge but friable holds and up to a double-bolt belay.
2) 6b. Traverse right past two bolts via a hard and blind move to a scoop and a good rest. Pull leftwards out of the scoop to gain a huge pocket. Climb thoughtfully up the headwall to the top. © Rockfax
Extreme Rock , North Wales Super Route E6's , North Wales Rock Graded List , ... And One For The Crow , Stanner's E5-E7 North Wales
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Nick Bullock | 10 Jun |
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βeta: 10/6/2025. ****WARNING**** PLEASE DON'T CLIMB THIS ROUTE AT THE MOMENT, JUNE 2025. There is a rock pipit nesting in the pocket above the last bolt on the second pitch. The route is not possible without using this pocket. Please don't climb for a couple of months. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: 10/6/2025. ****WARNING**** PLEASE DON'T CLIMB THIS ROUTE AT THE MOMENT, JUNE 2025. There is a rock pipit nesting in the pocket above the last bolt on the second pitch. The route is not possible without using this pocket. Please don't climb for a couple of months. |
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Grade: E6 6b ***
(Craig y Forwyn)