Rockfax Description
An exhilirating climb that builds to an exposed finale on the headwall. From below the crack on Oyster make some wild moves rightwards into a hanging groove. Climb this then trend right to the lower-off. Wires are required for the upper section or finish up Reader's Wives, which does not require wires. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The Orme 7a+'s, North Wales Rock Graded List, Classic UK F7s, Rock cats getting strong

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Sam Willis 19 Sep Lead dog Pumped out cos I climbed the bottom badly, then lost all head game on the exposed top! Not my finest hour but a nice route
with Dean
Pumped out cos I climbed the bottom badly, then lost all head game on the exposed top! Not my finest hour but a nice route
with Dean
accynez 15 Sep Lead O/S
with Mitch
with Mitch
wolf.leeb 23 Jul Lead rpt
with Buck
with Buck
JordanColquhoun 27 Jun Lead
Aeron Thomas 9 Jun Lead RP Readers Wives finish, missed the pocket on the os..doh
with Molly, James 1
Readers Wives finish, missed the pocket on the os..doh
with Molly, James 1
Hidden 16 Feb Lead RP
Luke Owens 13 Sep, 2018 Lead RP Classic line
with Sam2257
Classic line
with Sam2257
DeaNomNom 14 Jul, 2018 Lead RP Tried to do this in the winter, got about three clips in but all the holds were wet so I backed off. First go today placing clips.
Tried to do this in the winter, got about three clips in but all the holds were wet so I backed off. First go today placing clips.
Phil Davidson 23 Jun, 2018 Lead β
shaun goodey ??, 2018 -
shaun goodey ??, 2018 -
Hidden 25 Jul, 2017 Lead β
Tophe 5 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Dan McManus
with Dan McManus
Lenny 25 Jun, 2017 Lead RP With the readers finish.
with Kev
With the readers finish.
with Kev
Lenny 17 Jun, 2017 TR dog
with Kev
with Kev
JamesWilliams 13 Jun, 2017 Lead RP Put the draws in then first go. Felt easy bein fresh
Put the draws in then first go. Felt easy bein fresh
katy_abra 11 Jun, 2017 Lead RP
with Eve Lancashire
with Eve Lancashire
dan gibson 1 Jun, 2017 Lead RP
JamesWilliams 10 May, 2017 Lead dog Will definitely do this when I'm fresh. Tired from doing 2 big routes on colossus wall
with adamre12, Arthur Milr
Will definitely do this when I'm fresh. Tired from doing 2 big routes on colossus wall
with adamre12, Arthur Milr
JamesWilliams 5 May, 2017 Lead dog Probably would of done this first time if the rope had not caught in the GriGri mid clip. Oh well ace route one for next time. Readers wives finish
Probably would of done this first time if the rope had not caught in the GriGri mid clip. Oh well ace route one for next time. Readers wives finish
jonleighton 24 Sep, 2016 Lead β Don't think my tired arms could have managed this without the beta spraydown from Jake!
with Jake Wrathall
Don't think my tired arms could have managed this without the beta spraydown from Jake!
with Jake Wrathall
Hidden ?Sep, 2016 -
Sophie Nunn 16 Jun, 2016 Lead RP 2nd go
with Ed G
2nd go
with Ed G
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Eduardo Martinez ??, 2016 -
wolf.leeb 20 Sep, 2015 Lead dog
with Alexis
with Alexis
Hidden 15 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 May, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 21 May, 2015 TR
SMc 16 May, 2015 Lead RP
with Anne
with Anne
Stoney Boy 18 Apr, 2015 Lead RP With Readers Wives
with Nick Conway
With Readers Wives
with Nick Conway
Nickc ?Apr, 2015 Lead RP
shed_hed 22 Nov, 2014 Lead β Reader's wives finish. Felt like a bit of an adventure getting to the first bolt. Was wet on the burly jug pulling start but it made for some slippery feet. Nearly gave up when my feet were slipping everywhere until Dougie said there was a jug coming up. Tricky getting into groove but can rest as soon as you do. Great route of contrasting halves.
with TC, dswansonlow
Reader's wives finish. Felt like a bit of an adventure getting to the first bolt. Was wet on the burly jug pulling start but it made for some slippery feet. Nearly gave up when my feet were slipping everywhere until Dougie said there was a jug coming up. Tricky getting into groove but can rest as soon as you do. Great route of contrasting halves.
with TC, dswansonlow
Jdoc 16 Nov, 2014 2nd
dswansonlow 16 Nov, 2014 Lead RP 2nd go.
with Jdoc
2nd go.
with Jdoc
Hidden 1 Oct, 2014 Lead RP
piken 14 Sep, 2014 Lead
HAJ Francis ?Sep, 2014 Lead RP
mark mcgowan01 7 Jun, 2014 Lead β felt 7b
with Owan Jones
felt 7b
with Owan Jones
Hidden ??, 2014 Lead
nige ??, 2014 -
Dave Turnbull, BMC 6 Oct, 2013 Lead RP
with Frank Ramsey
with Frank Ramsey
Ally Smith 28 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
khawk 29 Jun, 2013 Lead β
with datoon
with datoon
Alex Mason 16 Apr, 2013 Lead β Bit of beta from Dave. Nice crux moves then steady up the groove and beyond.
with Dave Evans, Chris Doyle
Bit of beta from Dave. Nice crux moves then steady up the groove and beyond.
with Dave Evans, Chris Doyle
LRob ??, 2012 Lead
gregoritos 11 Sep, 2011 Lead RP 2nd go.
2nd go.
phil64 8 Jul, 2011 TR RP
schof 6 Jul, 2011 Lead β very good climbing, as good as night glue, so much varied style with an amazing groove to finish. Getting into it is the crux. The normal Clam finish is out right, it does not need any wires, it is run out but the climbing is all of about severe. Big jugs
with Big phil, luke 'power house' brooks
very good climbing, as good as night glue, so much varied style with an amazing groove to finish. Getting into it is the crux. The normal Clam finish is out right, it does not need any wires, it is run out but the climbing is all of about severe. Big jugs
with Big phil, luke 'power house' brooks
Luke Brooks 6 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with Phil, schof
with Phil, schof
Hidden 18 Jun, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 18 Jun, 2011 Lead rpt
Hidden 21 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Rob Pitt 24 Jun, 2010 Lead RP 2nd go
with steveE9
2nd go
with steveE9
ksjs 19 May, 2010 Lead O/S simply brilliant! best 7a+ in N Wales (alongside Geordie War Cry maybe)? continental style steepness precedes some Orme technicalities. single large nut fine for the short last section, not essential though probably desirable if you dont fancy a bit of a swinging whipper. worth taking 1 or 2 sling extended draws to reduce drag. not ideal to clean - take care with rubbing rope.
with tommy
simply brilliant! best 7a+ in N Wales (alongside Geordie War Cry maybe)? continental style steepness precedes some Orme technicalities. single large nut fine for the short last section, not essential though probably desirable if you dont fancy a bit of a swinging whipper. worth taking 1 or 2 sling extended draws to reduce drag. not ideal to clean - take care with rubbing rope.
with tommy
hamer89 7 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Jun, 2009 -
Boy ??, 2008 -
Si Witcher ?Nov, 2007 Lead β flash
flash
Hidden 24 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Jun, 2003 Lead RP
innes ??, 1996 Lead O/S
Roget 2 Jul, 1994 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
crossleysm ?Jun, 1994 Lead RP 1st RP
1st RP
Mike Owen 27 Apr, 1994 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
UKB Shark 4 Oct, 1992 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 28 Jun, 1992 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 21 Jun, 1992 Lead O/S
keefe 22 Sep, 1991 -
Mike Owen 14 Jul, 1991 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Billg ??, 1990 Lead RP
Neil McA 11 Sep, 1988 Lead O/S
with Martin Mandel
with Martin Mandel
ajtay ??, 1987 -
with George
with George
Hidden ??, 1986 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 15 Jul, 1984 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Phil Davidson 28 May, 1984 Lead rpt
stp ??, 1984 Lead
with Ben Moon
with Ben Moon
Mark Kemball 2 Aug, 1983 Lead
with Paul Clark
with Paul Clark
Hidden 7 Jul, 1983 Lead β
robyn1 ??, 1980 -
Hidden 1 Jul, 1969 Lead O/S
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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set