Rockfax Description
The classic of the wall. Start up a small flake and follow the line of weakness up and left across the wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Reach-dependent crux above good gear - E4 6a for the tall/E5 6b for the short? New bolts added to Olympus Trip are just far enough away not to detract from this as a trad lead.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Wales Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
ferdia 14 May Lead G/U
mshorter 10 Jun, 2018 Lead G/U
Hidden 9 May, 2018 Lead O/S
anguskille 9 May, 2018 Lead O/S Pumpy, tough finding the right way but bomber gear. Great route
Pumpy, tough finding the right way but bomber gear. Great route
peter.herd 25 Apr, 2018 Lead
with Jez B
with Jez B
jezb1 25 Apr, 2018 2nd
shaun goodey ??, 2018 -
andyinglis 15 Oct, 2016 Lead dnf Seemed hard....
with Murdoch Jamieson
Seemed hard....
with Murdoch Jamieson
JulesV 5 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
with SV
with SV
Hidden 26 May, 2016 Lead dog
Hidden 21 May, 2016 Lead G/U
Hidden ?May, 2016 2nd
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Justin T 11 Sep, 2015 Lead dnf Went for the retro-flash after trying Mr Olympia, massively fluffed up placing gear in after crux resulting in failing shortly after and worst pump I've had for several years. Had to clip-stick up adjacent route to strip it as still couldn't climb 20min later!
Went for the retro-flash after trying Mr Olympia, massively fluffed up placing gear in after crux resulting in failing shortly after and worst pump I've had for several years. Had to clip-stick up adjacent route to strip it as still couldn't climb 20min later!
soph 11 Jul, 2015 Lead dog Took a while to sort out head for slappy move
with Tony Stone
Took a while to sort out head for slappy move
with Tony Stone
Hidden 24 Apr, 2015 Lead G/U
Adam Lincoln 6 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Rick Kirby
with Rick Kirby
Rich Kirby 3 Sep, 2014 2nd rpt
Tom Livingstone 17 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 May, 2014 Lead G/U
Hidden ??, 2014 Lead
oliverpcain ??, 2014 Lead rpt
pete johnson 18 Jun, 2013 Lead β
with Lun
with Lun
Justin T 10 Sep, 2012 Lead dog A frustrating failure to route-read saw me at the tunnel-visioned at the crux grappling with a non-hold, fell off attempting to reverse to ground for a reappraisal whereupon the obvious holds became annoyingly apparent.
A frustrating failure to route-read saw me at the tunnel-visioned at the crux grappling with a non-hold, fell off attempting to reverse to ground for a reappraisal whereupon the obvious holds became annoyingly apparent.
Alex Mason 3 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S The last in the chain gang trilogy and definitely the best. Pretty greasy, humid conditions. Sprinted it out to the top groove and spent as long on the top move alone, as I had on the rest of the route.
with Jim McCormack
The last in the chain gang trilogy and definitely the best. Pretty greasy, humid conditions. Sprinted it out to the top groove and spent as long on the top move alone, as I had on the rest of the route.
with Jim McCormack
zero six ?Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Finally after so long. Hard to say o/s as I've been present so often when people have been on it, but it didn't feel like I knew the moves or gear in advance.
Finally after so long. Hard to say o/s as I've been present so often when people have been on it, but it didn't feel like I knew the moves or gear in advance.
Dave Warburton 25 Jun, 2012 Lead β 6a for me at 5' 9" and no cross through?. On Conor's gear to his highpoint. Excellent moves; surprisingly steep.
6a for me at 5' 9" and no cross through?. On Conor's gear to his highpoint. Excellent moves; surprisingly steep.
Hidden 25 Jun, 2012 Lead RP
Ally Smith 2 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
LRob ??, 2012 Lead
Eric the Fish ??, 2012 - felt annoyed, cheated and confused by this: swam rightwards from vertical slot - convinced in my little fishy brain that this was necessary due to proximity of Olympus Trip, guide description and prominent foothold - but no! (also, I don't have feet). Tried to go back left but floundered like a little fishy out of water. Got flustered, pumped and rested, feeling thouroughly battered. :( Boo hoo. Pulled back on with my little fins immediately, leapt like a salmon up just left of vertical slot: straightforward, no 6b and no cross-fin move. Had to rest again above as was so disgusted as what had just gone on. So, which way: direct i.e. through bulge or right via narrow cracks and rock pool (this seems only way that would give a cross-fin or 6b move yet the way i went was totally logical and swam so well). Anyway, perfect protection for a little fishy like me, immaculate climbing and straightforward (wouldnt feel wrong at Eel4), Fried 6c. take BD cam size 1 (red) for slot and thin sling for finishing groove. Super :)))) Eric out.
felt annoyed, cheated and confused by this: swam rightwards from vertical slot - convinced in my little fishy brain that this was necessary due to proximity of Olympus Trip, guide description and prominent foothold - but no! (also, I don't have feet). Tried to go back left but floundered like a little fishy out of water. Got flustered, pumped and rested, feeling thouroughly battered. :( Boo hoo. Pulled back on with my little fins immediately, leapt like a salmon up just left of vertical slot: straightforward, no 6b and no cross-fin move. Had to rest again above as was so disgusted as what had just gone on. So, which way: direct i.e. through bulge or right via narrow cracks and rock pool (this seems only way that would give a cross-fin or 6b move yet the way i went was totally logical and swam so well). Anyway, perfect protection for a little fishy like me, immaculate climbing and straightforward (wouldnt feel wrong at Eel4), Fried 6c. take BD cam size 1 (red) for slot and thin sling for finishing groove. Super :)))) Eric out.
Cailean Harker 12 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Nov, 2011 2nd
Hidden 16 Jul, 2011 TR
CRiddiford 15 Jul, 2011 TR dog
with Tom Redmond, mwatson
with Tom Redmond, mwatson
thomasadixon 15 Jul, 2011 Lead RP Super pumpy but no really hard moves...except the cross through that probably wasn't needed.
with mwatson
Super pumpy but no really hard moves...except the cross through that probably wasn't needed.
with mwatson
Rob Pitt 7 Jun, 2011 Lead β
with Lee Roberts
with Lee Roberts
Luke Brooks 19 Mar, 2011 Lead Ground up with beta after 1 fall.
with Bertie, barni
Ground up with beta after 1 fall.
with Bertie, barni
barni 19 Mar, 2011 Lead RP
with bertie, Luke Brooks
with bertie, Luke Brooks
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
mwatson ??, 2011 Lead O/S Didn't find any cross through move? did swap hands at one point which could have been it but swapping hands was pretty easy. first E5
Didn't find any cross through move? did swap hands at one point which could have been it but swapping hands was pretty easy. first E5
Hidden ??, 2011 -
MikePycroft 3 Aug, 2010 TR dog Hard fight
with Andy B
Hard fight
with Andy B
dan gibson 26 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with blair fyffe
with blair fyffe
ksjs 3 Jul, 2010 Lead dog felt annoyed, cheated and confused by this: stepped right from vertical slot (convinced this was necessary due to proximity of Olympus Trip, guide description and prominent foothold) but no easy way up, tried to go back left but struggled as quite blind, got flustered, pumped and rested :( pulled back on immediately, went up just left of vertical slot: straightforward, no 6b and no cross-through. had to rest again above as was so disgusted as what had just gone on. so, which way: direct i.e. through bulge or right via narrow cracks (this seems only way that would give a cross-through or 6b move yet the way i went was totally logical and climbed so well). anyway, perfect protection, immaculate climbing and straightforward (wouldnt feel wrong at E4), Fr 6c. take BD cam size 1 (red) for slot and thin sling for finishing groove.
with rob
felt annoyed, cheated and confused by this: stepped right from vertical slot (convinced this was necessary due to proximity of Olympus Trip, guide description and prominent foothold) but no easy way up, tried to go back left but struggled as quite blind, got flustered, pumped and rested :( pulled back on immediately, went up just left of vertical slot: straightforward, no 6b and no cross-through. had to rest again above as was so disgusted as what had just gone on. so, which way: direct i.e. through bulge or right via narrow cracks (this seems only way that would give a cross-through or 6b move yet the way i went was totally logical and climbed so well). anyway, perfect protection, immaculate climbing and straightforward (wouldnt feel wrong at E4), Fr 6c. take BD cam size 1 (red) for slot and thin sling for finishing groove.
with rob
ksjs 4 Jun, 2010 Lead dnf reversed from vertical slot - hot and sweating. surprised by physicality, will need to be fresh for this...
with pete
reversed from vertical slot - hot and sweating. surprised by physicality, will need to be fresh for this...
with pete
hamer89 17 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn ?Apr, 2010 Lead
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
Hidden 1 Feb, 2010 Lead rpt
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
Hidden 21 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
mattyork2 9 Jun, 2009 Lead dog A great experience that taught me how much harder safe e5 is going to be compared to French 6 grade trad routes.....Best get beasted this Summer and come back with a fresh approach ( :
with Rory Shawe
A great experience that taught me how much harder safe e5 is going to be compared to French 6 grade trad routes.....Best get beasted this Summer and come back with a fresh approach ( :
with Rory Shawe
miastacey 30 May, 2009 2nd 1 rest, reachy and powerful.
with Bob Smith
1 rest, reachy and powerful.
with Bob Smith
nige 16 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with mark hounslea
with mark hounslea
Si Witcher 28 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S Could be E4 6a for the tall / E5 6b for the short. Crux is above good gear.
Could be E4 6a for the tall / E5 6b for the short. Crux is above good gear.
Steve Crowe 13 Jul, 2002 Lead O/S Superb day 1 x E6, 3 x E5's, 1 x E4, 2 x E2's
with karin
Superb day 1 x E6, 3 x E5's, 1 x E4, 2 x E2's
with karin
Hidden ??, 2000 -
michael burrows 15 Aug, 1989 TR
with andy boorman
with andy boorman
Mike Owen 14 Jun, 1987 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
mark mcgowan01 ??, 1987 -
Mike Owen 16 Sep, 1984 Lead O/S
with John Peake
with John Peake
Phil Davidson ?Jun, 1982 Lead O/S
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 15
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set